Have heard that the Bottom Pin from a Herakles works not only great but much better than the OEM L2 Pin does. If replace, might as well do it with that one if ya can.
Hey there, does anyone have a good fix for the pins? My sister dropped my Lemo2 and it wouldn't fire. After checking everything out I have surmised that the 2 pins are no longer making contact. I tried unscrewing the top pin a bit, but to get a connection I have to unscrew it way too far and then the ohms jump all over the place. I tried pushing the bottom pin up a little, but still not getting a connection. Any help or ideas would be appreciated!
Another "what the Lemo II needed from day one:"
View attachment 479636
A 9/64" hole centered at each juice channel horizontally and at the level of the deck vertically. Just basically a copy of the design of the newer STM RBA and every "subtank" premade coil out there. It does work. I can finally add this thing to the rotation. Now it wicks thick juice the way it's supposed to.
Nice! I would imagine it takes care of all the fussy wicking business as well. Just stuff it full of cotton, amirite?
Wowsers!!!
Excellent, I had recently grabbed 26 from temco.
1) Do you think 32 would be better than 30?.. or stick to 30.
2) Im probably gonna vape 80vg w/ lemo2... what have you been using?
3) How high off the deck?
Thanks for advice mate : )
Did you ever get it to come apart? I am having the same issueThanks, I'll try this too
Anyone have a picture of this?Little O-ring helps again. Put it in the positive post between the lip on the screw and the white insulator.
I am having problems t think with my lemo2 I am using ni200 & my resistance is all over the place. I have made sure it is not coil. This is my second build in a row that this has happened. So I am wondering if it is this pin issue. If so what do I need to check & how? If this is described step by step in this thread anyone know what page? Also, I have 2 Lemo2s & I can't get the airflow control to screw off of either one now. They have unscrewed before. Any tricks to do this? Because don't I have to get this off to work on the pin or screw?
Ok thanks! You do mean push the 510 pin from the bottom or outside up into the AFC. Correct?Every once in a while I have a similar problem with every atty that has the "double base" design like the Lemo 2. What you can try is remove the AFC base, push the pin from the bottom as much as possible, make sure the interior central screw is nice and snug, clean both contacts, and reassemble.
If you can't remove the AFC base, try freezing it. The contraction will "move" metal due to its constrained state so it's not a matter of doing it while it's still cold, just freezing and thawing it should make it removable. Heat works too but don't do that lol.
Ok thanks! You do mean push the 510 pin from the bottom or outside up into the AFC. Correct?
Have not read this whole thread so this may have been addressed. If so sorry for the repeat.
Is anyone having trouble with leakage? I have only had this a few days and it occasionally leaks out the air intake holes. Just a drop now and then. So ...?
I had my suspicions about the wick but was not sure.
Should have stated this before but I'm still using the original build. This is my first RTA so I'm kinda in the dark.
How long should the wick last in this RTA before replacing?
The cotton I have is the 2x2 patches I have used for micro coils. Is this acceptable for use in this RTA or should I use different stuff? If yes, then what would you recommend?
Thanks