fc-2000 porous ceramic wick

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fistofsouth

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OK so I am thinking about using this for my Storm Rider 2.1. I have read through this thread, but not all 293 pages and I have two questions:

1. Has anyone put together one of these on a device with a 3mm wick-hole such as the SR 2.1 and f so what size fc-2000 did you use?

2. Where did you buy said fc-2000?
 

Lhartman89

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OK so I am thinking about using this for my Storm Rider 2.1. I have read through this thread, but not all 293 pages and I have two questions:

1. Has anyone put together one of these on a device with a 3mm wick-hole such as the SR 2.1 and f so what size fc-2000 did you use?

2. Where did you buy said fc-2000?

1/8" wicks are 3.175mm and you can get them at Discount Vapers if they are in-stock.
 
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Lhartman89

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OK thanks. I guess that means I'm stuck for now huh? I mean 3.175 is bigger than 3 and I don't want to modify a work of art. Thanks again.

You can get the 7/64" wicks. They are 2.77813 mm which will work great.

Edit: I just measured both my 1/8" and 7/64" wicks and it looks like the 1/8" is under 1/8" so you should be able to use it. It's not that hard to bore out the wick hole if you have to either.

Here are some pics. These are measured in MM.

The 1/8" is on the left and 7/64" on the right.

IMAG1553.jpg

IMAG1552.jpg
 
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vapdivrr

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OK so I am thinking about using this for my Storm Rider 2.1. I have read through this thread, but not all 293 pages and I have two questions:

1. Has anyone put together one of these on a device with a 3mm wick-hole such as the SR 2.1 and f so what size fc-2000 did you use?

2. Where did you buy said fc-2000?

the 1/8 wicks that they sell now are channeled and are quite a bit smaller then 1/8, I just measured a few of mine and they range from 2.6 to 2.8 mm. now if you get your hands on some of the un-channeled wicks( maybe some might still carry them) they are definitely bigger and wont work for you. if they are the channeled ones get the 1/8 size. if round regular wicks, get the 7/64 size.
 

vapdivrr

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actually I just found a couple that are 2.90mm. its a toss up. maybe the 7/64 will work better, they will give you more of a gap, so better wicking, and less heat sink. the problem is that these wicks vary in sizes a lot depending on the batch, it is possible that if you order the 7/64 they can actually come in very small which might give you a large gap, which can get a little messy. get both to be safe
 

Lhartman89

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Thanks to both Lhartman89 and vapdivrr I really appreciate the details and photos. You are both gentlemen and scholars.

One last question for anyone that cares to answer; what is the best way to reduce the length of fc-2000?

I just cut mine with a pair of pliers with the snippers in the middle.
 

Lhartman89

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I suggest you get a torch to do hot wraps with. The is really the only other tool you need. It is super easy to cut the wick to the length you need. I had to do it for my RSST's. As for the hot wrap, I use a benzomatic torch that stands up by itself and has a lock to keep it going. Then you can use both hands to wrap the wick. I suggest taking out the positive post out of the RBA along with the bushing and put the wick in the RBA, secure the wire in the neg screw and wrap the wick in the RBA that way. It is how I do all mine and is super easy. Hope this helps.
 

ukeman

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thanks guys for all the recent tips on setting up PC2000 ...

i was chatting with vapdivrr quite abit about how tricky it is to get a good hot wrap wick setup, and how once you get a good one, you want to clean it vs. stripping the PC and starting over with a new hot wrap...

With i.e. a target resistance at .7+ Ohms using a thick guage kanthal, you don't use many wraps (3-4)
- and that 1st and last wrap can get loose when attaching to posts... leaving you with like 1 or at most 2 tight wraps in the center... and messing up all your hard work at getting that wire tight to the PC wick.

Strategies for avoiding that include hot wrapping it so there is no movement needed for the tails when you attach, reheating the wires to get them to the posts without undoing your work... humbug.

Thanks for the cleaning tips vap...

fwiw i am waiting for some 26 and 27g k wire and nichrome to try for .7+ with more wraps (4-6) which seems beneficial to keep the hot wrap stable.
 

ukeman

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while waiting for some thicker wire (more hot wraps)... i had some metal rope that was very skinny and slid a nextel 1/16th over it half way to try out.
of course the vape is good. how it wicks and holds up to burning juice etc remains to be seen ; i dont expect it to last long but it is a surefire way to get a few delicious tankfuls vaped. :)
3 wraps of 28g = .52 Ohms... in my DID. no hot spots.

to add to previous post about hot wrap coils coming loose at the top and bottom, it creates vicious hot spots....
 

eLCruz

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OK thanks. I guess that means I'm stuck for now huh? I mean 3.175 is bigger than 3 and I don't want to modify a work of art. Thanks again.

So modify the wick... use an abrasive to remove the .175mm. Use a dremel with a diamond grit disc. Just be very gentle as anything under 1/8th inch is VERY laterally fragile...
:confused:

Sent from Jelly Bean'd T989 using Tapatalk Beta 7.
 

fistofsouth

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So modify the wick... use an abrasive to remove the .175mm. Use a dremel with a diamond grit disc. Just be very gentle as anything under 1/8th inch is VERY laterally fragile...
:confused:

Sent from Jelly Bean'd T989 using Tapatalk Beta 7.

Yep I am a bit of a klutz and would just as soon buy something that works as opposed to engineer it myself. I know some guys really dig that, but I'm not one of them. I might end up going with SS Mesh as I have seen enough videos and read enough about that to feel comfortable with the process. The first few videos I saw of fc-2000 made the set-up appear to be very simple and the vape to be better than SS, with price being the only sticking point. After decades of smoking Djarium Blacks to the tune of $12-$18 a day paying a bit more (fc-2000 vis-a-vis SS mesh) is not an issue. I know many people that vape love to tinker, but I have no interest in that.
 
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eLCruz

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Yep I am a bit of a klutz and would just as soon buy something that works as opposed to engineer it myself. I know some guys really dig that, but I'm not one of them. I might end up going with SS Mesh as I have seen enough videos and read enough about that to feel comfortable with the process. The first few videos I saw of fc-2000 made the set-up appear to be very simple and the vape to be better than SS, with price being the only sticking point. After decades of smoking Djarium Blacks to the tune of $12-$18 a day paying a bit more (fc-2000 vis-a-vis SS mesh) is not an issue. I know many people that vape love to tinker, but I have no interest in that.

It's not as hard as you may think. All you need is a 1/8rh drill bit and a working drill. Took me 15 minutes to do my AGA T2. Just gotta keep the speed low on the drill and your set. But I hear ya... I just like to TURBO charge everything! Should see my lawnmower! :D :thumbup:

Sent from Jelly Bean'd T989 using Tapatalk Beta 7.
 

Rapture

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So after finally getting ss mesh working i got super paranoid using it because of the chromium 6 discussion. I actually quit vaping and nicotine altogether for 4 days. I was depressed and sick and slept all day. I finally broke down and bought a disposable e-cig because I couldnt handle the withdrawls any longer. I want to get my aga t2 back up and running with this ceramic wick material. I have 32 kanthal and 28 kanthal. i am wanting to drill out my aga t2 wick hole and air flow hole. I read through half this post and cannot go any longer. I want to avoid any silica or ss mesh or any other material that has ties to occupational health hazards of inhalation.

My only question is what exactly is ceramic composed of???

is it supposedly safe to vape???

is this supposed to be safe because it is used in aquariums for the bubbler???

I know nothing is 100% percent safe to inhale but you get my point. thanks in advance to anyone who can help.
 
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