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Game changer? pyrex ss hybrid wick by Scubabatdan

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tygertyger

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I have ordered some tubing from the USA,fuzed quartz (prefered toward the end of the thread) cost like $5 for 4 feet,shipping was impossible to figure out,might be free...lol

Fused Quartz Tubing

uh-oh.... that's why I wanted to phone them first..... they ship by UPS (CRAPPY!!! especially over the border).... and they say they will tack on shipping costs at time of invoice.... meaning just 'cos it looks like zero, doesn't mean it will be. Then you still could get charged a RIDICULOUS brokerage fee for their broker to clear it across the border (but perhaps not).

I was going to ask if they would precut the lengths so as to get cheap shipping, and ship by alternative method - hopefully USPS.

Keep us posted!
 

martinc

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Nah,read carefully:

''All orders will ship via UPS Ground (unless specified different by you) shipping cost will be calculated at time of shipment and added to invoice. The detailed invoice will be attached to the box along with the packing slip.''

I asked to cut my tubes at 12'',so box will be small and with a declared value of a paltry $4.....will slip through no problemo.
 

tygertyger

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Nah,read carefully:

''All orders will ship via UPS Ground (unless specified different by you) shipping cost will be calculated at time of shipment and added to invoice. The detailed invoice will be attached to the box along with the packing slip.''

I asked to cut my tubes at 12'',so box will be small and with a declared value of a paltry $4.....will slip through no problemo.

ahhhh, excellent.... cutting to 12" will help immensely, I just worry about UPS brokers.... not sure.... it seems if they so much as lift a pencil, they want a killing. Hopefully not! I never found a spot to specify other shipping method, it seemed that as far as the automated ordering was concerned it was UPS or nothing lol..... maybe if one was to just contact them after the fact with an order number they would cooperate for alternative methods? Anyway, hopefully it's cheap for you and speeds right over the border.
 

therealcmac

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Wow, what a great concept! Hope it all works out as intended.

I hope so too, I almost threw my Mini DID at the wall last night ;) gonna use the cigarette paper method when I get home from work tonight and see if I can get it going that way for now....some coils just work great then I hit roadblocks, very frustrating.
 

tygertyger

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Can someone please give me the Coles Notes of this development. I am interested in wicking how? And what is the shorting issue this is glass afterall to

As mac said, the glass tubing essentially acts as an insulator between coil and SSwick.... no need to oxidize, no juice gets on coil, no hotspots, even heating of liquid in wick!

I hope so too, I almost threw my Mini DID at the wall last night ;) gonna use the cigarette paper method when I get home from work tonight and see if I can get it going that way for now....some coils just work great then I hit roadblocks, very frustrating.

Good luck.... hope you get it working nicely and in minimal time.
 

Projectguy

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Thanks Mac

A couple of questions :

1. No need for an insulating ring in the wick hole?
2. The glass pipette still can't touch the bottom of the tank, now because of flow not current ?
3. How many wraps of mesh are required to produce minimum flow?

More to follow as brain assimilates

The SS wick sits inside the glass tube, coils goes around the glass, so no possibility of shorts, glass heats up which heats up the mesh which vaporizes the liquid.
 

therealcmac

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I have not had a chance to keep up on the thread about it all, but from what i gathered earlier you would only need the tube where the coil is wrapped, so you wouldn't need to extend it all the way into the tank, it can just sit on top. The guy who figured it out was vaping at 15W and it did take a little longer than the standard time to heat up to the point of vaporization.
 

Projectguy

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I have not had a chance to keep up on the thread about it all, but from what i gathered earlier you would only need the tube where the coil is wrapped, so you wouldn't need to extend it all the way into the tank, it can just sit on top. The guy who figured it out was vaping at 15W and it did take a little longer than the standard time to heat up to the point of vaporization.

Why would I want to vape at 15 watts. Achilles heel?
 

tygertyger

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A couple of questions :

1. No need for an insulating ring in the wick hole?
2. The glass pipette still can't touch the bottom of the tank, now because of flow not current ?
3. How many wraps of mesh are required to produce minimum flow?

More to follow as brain assimilates

In his original iteration, Scubabatdan used a piece of tubing that went from above coil all the way nearly to bottom of tank and drilled out the hole to fit. Later, he tried a small piece of tub just long enough to insulate the coils-- no need to even reach into tank, therefore no need to drill. It's only really necessary to isolate the coils from the SSmesh. Because the coil doesn't touch mesh, no need to insulate mesh from tank. As for how many wraps.... did you mean in the coil? If so, I'm not 100% sure, although at one point in the thread he did mention eliminating one wrap from the kanthal coil and getting increased vapor.

I have not had a chance to keep up on the thread about it all, but from what i gathered earlier you would only need the tube where the coil is wrapped...

exactly ;)

You can use cotton wick also, leave a little tail sticking out the bottom and no flow problems, and it shouldn't need the insulator with no metal contact. From what I've seen they take a bit to warm up, so maybe high watts gets it vaping better faster.

There's also a few followers intending to do some experimenting with capillary action tubing..... the kind with itty bitty tubes inside of the main tube.... a tube of tubes! the idea being that if capillary action can draw up the fluid by itself, you can also eliminate the need for mesh at all.... talk about clean! Your juice draws up touching nothing but pyrex and is vaporized with no contact to kanthal coil or wick material! I'll be interested to hear about how well that works, though I fear it may have a tendency to leak or bleed at the top....
 

dsy5

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I have ordered some tubing from the USA,fuzed quartz (prefered toward the end of the thread) cost like $5 for 4 feet,shipping was impossible to figure out,might be free...lol

Fused Quartz Tubing

What size did you order? Hope you have bought the 3mm OD x 2 mm ID - the wall is thinner than the 3mm OD x 1mm ID...

And the shipping is not free; it is calculated at time of shipping. Others have said it has cost $20.00 from some other suppliers...
 
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Cobber

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Thanks Mac

A couple of questions :

1. No need for an insulating ring in the wick hole?
2. The glass pipette still can't touch the bottom of the tank, now because of flow not current ?
3. How many wraps of mesh are required to produce minimum flow?

More to follow as brain assimilates

1. No. The power coil doesn't touch the wick so your wick doesn't need to be insulated
2. No. If it touches the bottom of the tank then the juice has farther to flow to reach the top and if it touches then you may seal up the bottom
3. Wraps of mesh? Not sure what you are asking
 

Projectguy

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3. Wraps of mesh? Not sure what you are asking

If I understand this correctly the SS mesh is rolled and inserted into the pipette, unoxidized. The juice flows based on the capillary action of the mesh. So do you used less mesh which is then rolled up and inserted into the pipette
 

tygertyger

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If I understand this correctly the SS mesh is rolled and inserted into the pipette, unoxidized. The juice flows based on the capillary action of the mesh. So do you used less mesh which is then rolled up and inserted into the pipette

Not sure yet Projectguy, but it seems reasonable to imagine that the SS wick would be a little bit narrower, yes.... but the tube can be bigger than the hole, so it might be subtle. The tube just has to be small enough that your coils don't risk touching the centre post or outside wall I think..... if I understand it right.
 

Cobber

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If I understand this correctly the SS mesh is rolled and inserted into the pipette, unoxidized. The juice flows based on the capillary action of the mesh. So do you used less mesh which is then rolled up and inserted into the pipette

Not sure if there is mention of it yet ... When I get mine I will be trying to fill the tube. Not tight jammed in there but little to no hole. I think that might combat the popping of juice if there is little room to expand.

Also I may have found a guy who will send me some quartz to try out in different sizes. Can't wait to try it.
 
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