Gem Clone

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Devlinukr

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I've had the same 2.5mm .5 ohm SS 316L build in mine since I got it, works exceptionally well in both TC, and Power mode. Still have had no issues with it at all, solid performance in both TC mode, and power, no leaks at all. Currently have it on an old Origin 21mm mech that has been sitting on my shelf for quite a while, makes a nice combo.

You should try some Stainless, or Titanium wire for TC, I prefer SS.

Q0IJBZs.jpg


CJLPzvg.jpg

Which gauge is your SS wire?

I've tried 24/26/28 and nothing worked for TC.
 
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Oregon Linda

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Mine is not here yet... :(

Would a kayfun air flow grub screw be the right thread and length to screw into the 510 hole first, then tighten up the 510 pin against it?

Hopefully that fix won't be too imaginative... :lol:

On another note, my SQRs and Snapdragon should be in Halifax tomorrow and I should have it by Wednesday or Thursday. :banana:

I just tried that, TrollDragon, and you're right - the grub screw is the right threading to fit. It has to be screwed quite a ways up in there though, so you can definitely see it in the air hole under the coil. I don't know if it would block any air or not. Doesn't the air to this atty come through a side hole, or does it get rerouted up through that hole? I haven't gotten too far with it yet, so I'm not really sure. But that was a brilliant idea - it does fit. Wish it were a bit shorter, but then it would be even easier to lose. :D
 
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Phone Guy

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Has anyone else had success removing and modifying the white insulator of the build deck in order to improve air draw? Mine was not easily removable and the draw was Insanely tight.

There is a "b" version that shows what might be a user accessible insulator with a wide open air flow? Looking for someone to confirm B is better than A or vice versa.
Wd3BgqD.png
 
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Millah

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I'm also curious about the B version. I ordered it, and it shipped yesterday. Haven't really seen much discussion on it, so I figured I'd give it a shot. I don't have the A version (nor the authentic) so I don't really have anything to compare it to. Just hoping it doesn't have a ton of issues. The short 510 on the A version made me want to try the B version, as it seems to have non-adjustable 510, and I'm wanting something with a super stable connection for TC. I seem to have very bad luck with adjustable 510's, and I personally see no need for it anymore with all my mods having spring loaded 510's.
 

Oregon Linda

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Has anyone else had success removing and modifying the white insulator of the build deck in order to improve air draw? Mine was not easily removable and the draw was Insanely tight.

There is a "b" version that shows what might be a user accessible insulator with a wide open air flow? Looking for someone to confirm B is better than A or vice versa.
Wd3BgqD.png

Phone Guy, I didn't have to adjust or modify anything on my A version to get a nice draw. I'm not one who likes huge air, but it's definitely as much as I get from my Taifun GT, and maybe a bit more. It's just right to me. So maybe it was just an issue with the particular one you got?

Mine was missing the o-rings for the fill holes. But I have a bunch of Erlkonigins and have plenty of that size o-ring. I'm still awaiting o-rings to use on the 510 pin. But I actually just adjusted it a bit and it's working fine without any wobble.

I just put a build on mine today and am really enjoying the vape. The flavor is on a par with my Erls, and since it has a glass tank, I can use a lot more kinds of juice with it. I'm really happy with it. It could definitely stand to have fewer parts, though! :D
 

Phone Guy

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Phone Guy, I didn't have to adjust or modify anything on my A version to get a nice draw. I'm not one who likes huge air, but it's definitely as much as I get from my Taifun GT, and maybe a bit more. It's just right to me. So maybe it was just an issue with the particular one you got?

Mine was missing the o-rings for the fill holes. But I have a bunch of Erlkonigins and have plenty of that size o-ring. I'm still awaiting o-rings to use on the 510 pin. But I actually just adjusted it a bit and it's working fine without any wobble.

I just put a build on mine today and am really enjoying the vape. The flavor is on a par with my Erls, and since it has a glass tank, I can use a lot more kinds of juice with it. I'm really happy with it. It could definitely stand to have fewer parts, though! :D
I didn't get any extra o-rings, but I did get the glass tank, Stainless tank, 2 beauty rings, build deck ring, hybrid, and 510 rings. I also got 2 510 long screws, and 1 short hybrid 510 screws are way to short, including the hybrid screw. I had to use a tiny oring from one of my erlkonigin on the hybrid screw to keep it from wobbling around. The screw itself needed to be a little longer and beefier imho. But with the oring it seems to be fairly stable.

I have not tried a TC ni200 build yet, but based on what I know of TC, and how finicky they can be based on the quality of connection... I would say MY tank probably would NOT be a good candidate for a TC build. But I have also established I feel mine particular unit was sub par imo. So your mileage may vary.
 

Phone Guy

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If you don't have 2 x 1 o rings, but have one of those keychain screwdrivers, steal an o ring off the screwdriver :)
I used an oring from an erlkonigin, those tiny ones.. But that's a great idea on the screwdriver! I'm sure I'm not the only hoarder in here with a collection of useless accessories - like those screwdrivers. LOL
 

Phone Guy

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I've been vaping on the gem for the last couple of days. The flavor is good but the draw is so tight. I'm not sure I could use it as a daily driver. With most of my recent tanks in my collection, the draw is so much more open compared to the gem, I feel like I'm working very hard for what ultimately amounts to much less vapor. :(
 
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ccwaters

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Mine is definitely not all that tight, compared to something like the Crius, or Aromamizer, yes, the closest I can compare to that I think your familiar with is the TGTII, mine has a little more airflow then that. If yours is tighter then I would assume it is something in your base. Unfortunately if you need more then that it probably isn't going to work for you.

I don't mind tighter draws occasionally, I still use Kayfuns, Ataman II, and other MTL tanks, other times I prefer picking up something way more open. I guess my point is, if it is tighter the the TGTII something is wrong.

Then again, I can do slow lung hits on something like the Ataman without issue, just what you like I guess.
 

Vicshalls

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i ordered one from 3f and waiting for it to get here. i had issues with a short 510 on a squape and someone was kind enough to share with me some screws he got. i am hoping that if the 510 is too short on this the same screws will work. these are the ones he had me get and they worked great. just had to file down the head some M3x16mm Flat Head Socket Cap Stainless Steel Screws 25pk HPI 100557 NEW AXA0147 they are from a us shipper as well so i got them fast. i will let yall know how mine from 3f turns out.
 

Phone Guy

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Mine is definitely not all that tight, compared to something like the Crius, or Aromamizer, yes, the closest I can compare to that I think your familiar with is the TGTII, mine has a little more airflow then that. If yours is tighter then I would assume it is something in your base. Unfortunately if you need more then that it probably isn't going to work for you.

I don't mind tighter draws occasionally, I still use Kayfuns, Ataman II, and other MTL tanks, other times I prefer picking up something way more open. I guess my point is, if it is tighter the the TGTII something is wrong.

Then again, I can do slow lung hits on something like the Ataman without issue, just what you like I guess.
Oh no... If my gem had a SIMILAR draw to my gt2, I'd be ecstatic! My gem, even after the minor modifications I performed is tight like a KFL or maybe even more closed off. :(

You and I got the same version, even though I'm pretty sure we ordered different part numbers. Package looks exactly like yours in the first post. Same issues with the screws too, but a erlkonigin oring (from the fill ports) made it fit much better.

My last build was a 2mm coil, raised up about 2/3 out of the coil well in an attempt to get a little more air (less blockage).

I'm really trying to love this tank, and put my wae2 back in rotation.... As the hybrid adapter works fine, the finish if not exact is so close I can't see a difference.
 
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TrollDragon

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The GEM arrived today and I was totally underwhelmed by it...

I really hope the authentic is at least 50x better than this clone functionality wise or I would have been livid for the price of this ErlK/Squape hybrid with the Protank juice holes. At least the Authentic GEM was not some FB waiting list only, hyped up atty like the Nextgen was. :facepalm:
GEM.jpg


That deck is tiny, the screws are minuscule and one of the screw heads is taller than the other so if you switch them the positive post shorts to the chamber. I swapped the screws around as my negative will not tighten, it gets to almost tight, then it jumps a thread loose again. Swapping the screws around allowed both to tighten but shorts after you put it back together. I'll have to see if any Kayfun deck screws fit it.

This one has the short 510 pin as well, so I took a small 2 mm hex grub airflow screw from a bag of spares and started it into the 510 hole backwards with the hex key hole towards the coil. Inserting a hex key drown the decks air hole I screwed the grub screw up inside the deck. I put the base on and screwed in the 510 pin till it was almost flush with the white insulator, then I unscrewed the grub screw from the coil side which allowed it to tighten up against the 510 pin. This gives you a solid 510 pin that will not turn or wobble while attaching the GEM to a mod.

Yes @Oregon Linda the air comes in through a side hole and up through the opening under the coil, If the grub screw is screwed in all the way to the stop before the deck opening you will block off airflow. Using a small grub screw solves that problem as it is away from that air opening quite a ways to snug up the 510 pin.

If any of your KFL airflow screws are too long you can always grind a little off to shorten them, you'll never loose the grub screw as it stays in the 510 threaded section.

With the size of the deck just allowing a 2.5mm coil to fit, you are quite limited with your builds. I'll put a 28g in it tonight as I have a 26g in there now. I thought wicking might be easy like the SQRs, but it needs to be thinned out quite a bit or it will give dry hits on the 50/50 juice I am using.

I can see those top fill o-rings going flying one day I'm filling it in a hurry and possibly the 510 insulator as there is nothing to hold it in place... :glare:

From the vape I did have it was good, not Rose or Tiafun GS II good though and there is a lot more air than the Rose or Kayfun Lite.

I am going to see if the base of our version will come apart for exploration like the B version does, put a 28g build on it, vape a tank or two, clean it and pop it back in the plastic chummy for some other time...

OT
Now that I have the Snapdragon's posts centered and tightened. A circle of 600 grit emery paper between the 510 plate and bottom cap to adjust (shim) the air hole alignment. It is vaping very nicely with a dual 26g setup.
:toast:
 

Oregon Linda

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Yes @Oregon Linda the air comes in through a side hole and up through the opening under the coil, If the grub screw is screwed in all the way to the stop before the deck opening you will block off airflow. Using a small grub screw solves that problem as it is away from that air opening quite a ways to snug up the 510 pin.

If any of your KFL airflow screws are too long you can always grind a little off to shorten them, you'll never loose the grub screw as it stays in the 510 threaded section.

Yeah, I kinda figured that after playing around with it. I'm still awaiting o-rings I ordered over a week ago. Who knew first class mail from Idaho to Oregon would take that long? :D But in the meantime, I just backed out the 510 screw a tad and it's working fine. I may eventually grind down a Kayfun grub screw, but that's not an easy job considering how tiny those things are.
 
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