Gem Clone

[ckquatt]

Just got my two today and MAN this thing is a real looker!! All parts/orings accounted for in the boxes, though one of the glass tanks was cracked through, into the trash it went.

A quick soak and rinse with denture cleaner tabs and I went to figuring out the puzzle pieces! This thing sure has a lot of parts! I also see what everyone means now about the 510 pin being too short but it still works on all my devices so far.

I had a little stumble with my first attempt at wicking it. I was constantly getting dry hits as it wasn't wicking AT ALL. I took the core out and pulled the wick and tried again just leaving about 1-2 mm of it sticking out of the sides and pushing the wick in again making the "shoulders" as mentioned above. Now it wicking like a champ and the flavor is great!

And man it looks good on the Cool Fire 4 with its media blasted finish! Glad I got two of them!

Sent from my Commodore 64 using Tapatalk

 

[TrollDragon]

Troll, your wick looks to dense to me, hard to say since it is Rayon though, I've not tried Rayon in it yet.

The way I look at this atomizer, as far as wicking, is those channels are like small reservoirs, especially at the end, I kept the coil as high as I figured I safely could without it contacting the top of the chamber. I'm thinking the center of the coil is about in line with those little wick holes.

I start out with about 7mm wide strip of Muji, remove two fairly thick outer strips. pull it through the coil ends up being a little tighter then I would normally do on other tanks. Then I pull it back and forth a bit to loosen it in the coil, and fluff each side on the coil edge. It gets very puffy, and loses a bit of the density doing it this way.

Once in place I trim each end even with the edge of the deck, I also trim it a little bit at the shoulders, makes it more of a ball shape on the ends, I never really press it into the channels at all. I blow on each end before trimming to really puff it out. then I just sort of push it around a bit very lightly to sort of form it without compressing it. I also rake just a little into the lower portion on the channel ends, Juice it up, and done.

In theory the wick barely contact the little riser in the channels, and floats above the sides of those little dams. Might be overthinking that part though

I don't take much time doing it, so it is not tedious, and doesn't have to be exact. I could be mistaken on the part in the end of the channels raked down, but since it really wicks nothing like the squape (juice comes in high, instead at bottom) my thought is it forms small pockets at that point.

The build is a little contrary to what others do, so I don't know. However for my preference this atty does not really wake up, and start performing until I hit 25 watts with the .7 build in it. The build pictured is once again doing really well @ 28 watts.

I never really got the SquapeR to perform well, still have it lying around, flavor was just never that great to me, also always had erratic wick behavior for me. Really didn't have high expectations for the gem, but after using it the only real thing in common with the Squape is appearance. Quite different how it wicks.

Thanks for the detailed info and pics cc much appreciated.

I tore it all down, cleaned and dried this AM. When I put the empty deck back in the chamber I noticed that the bottom edge of the juice hole that runs through my chimney lines up exactly with the bottom edge of the deck juice channel. Maybe I'll try to keep that channel clear of wick and just allow the wick to sit up on top.

I'll play with it again later on, I have some ceramic wicks to try out in my Kraken and Origenny.

 

[ccwaters]

Now I'm wondering something, when I first got mine I noticed right away, that the Deck did not slide tight against the base of the atomizer. Thought it was odd, but figured oh well, mine is about 2-3mm from seating tight against the bottom. My airflow and everything seems to line up so it was not a concern, though it does appear to me it should have fully seated.

Does your deck plug seat fully against the base, or does it protrude out a bit? My picture with the arrows is not exact, but I don't think mine sits that deep, I've watched my shoulder .... up against the juice holes.

How about anyone else? Base of deck plug tight against the bottom, or out a few mm?

 

[TrollDragon]

Now I'm wondering something, when I first got mine I noticed right away, that the Deck did not slide tight against the base of the atomizer. Thought it was odd, but figured oh well, mine is about 2-3mm from seating tight against the bottom. My airflow and everything seems to line up so it was not a concern, though it does appear to me it should have fully seated.

Does your deck plug seat fully against the base, or does it protrude out a bit? My picture with the arrows is not exact, but I don't think mine sits that deep, I've watched my shoulder .... up against the juice holes.

How about anyone else? Base of deck plug tight against the bottom, or out a few mm?

No my deck leaves a groove you can get a fingernail in to pull it out. If you look up into the chimney you will see a little ridge running around the inside near the top. The deck butts up against that and when my deck is inserted all the way the little index pins goes into the slot and sits flush with the deck ring.

There is not a lot of room up inside there. If you switch around the coil screws the positive post will short against the chimney top when it is all assembled.

Next time you are going to rewick have a look through the chimney juice hole to see where the decks juice channel rests.

 

[ccwaters]

OK, for the sake of accuracy I pulled the deck, and used my LED flashlight to shine through the juice holes with no wick. I would have grabbed a picture or two but my camera batteries are all dead.

The image depicts what could be seen through the hole. on mine the bottom edge of the juice flow hole is even with the edge of the little riser on the deck which leaves the full height of the vertical channel below the coil edge. very difficult to see without some good bright lighting

 

[ccwaters]

Also, as Oregon Linda discovered the Kayfun 510 pin is a fit, I'd like to add if you use the Kayfun pin, and a protank type grommet the KF pin can be completely tightened to a solid connection, no need to back it out, it is pretty close to the perfect length. It is about flush, and would need to be backed out slightly for hybrid type connections.

 

[TrollDragon]

You are correct, I just got the flashlight out and my deck lines up to the same place yours does. When I looked at it this AM it appeared to line up to the lower one.

 

[TrollDragon]

Also, as Oregon Linda discovered the Kayfun 510 pin is a fit, I'd like to add if you use the Kayfun pin, and a protank type grommet the KF pin can be completely tightened to a solid connection, no need to back it out, it is pretty close to the perfect length. It is about flush, and would need to be backed out slightly for hybrid type connections.

I used a Kayfun airflow grub screw put in backwards behind the 510 pin so it could be tightened from the coil side whern the 510 pin was flush.

 

[ccwaters]

I have one KF4 which I got from Focal that rusted, and was utter junk, pretty much just good for odds & ends parts, it gave up the copper 510 happily, and is running really well with a 28g Ni 200 coil on my IPV4, so far it is stable and seems to be running fine. I won't be leaving it in long though, don't care for the Ni 200.

A bit off topic, but have you tried your VTC Mini with SS wire yet? Watching the sales, hoping to grab a good deal on one.

 

[TrollDragon]

I have one KF4 which I got from Focal that rusted, and was utter junk, pretty much just good for odds & ends parts, it gave up the copper 510 happily, and is running really well with a 28g Ni 200 coil on my IPV4, so far it is stable and seems to be running fine. I won't be leaving it in long though, don't care for the Ni 200.

A bit off topic, but have you tried your VTC Mini with SS wire yet? Watching the sales, hoping to grab a good deal on one.

Yeah, I am not a fan of Ni200 either, too soft to work with but the annealed tempered stuff is ok. Unkamen Ti is what I use for TC and it works well. Dirty though and needs a good cleaning before use.

My VTC Mini went back to the B&M and was exchanged for an iPV D2, then you just know that the updated firmware was released that added SS support 2 days later... I might get one again from eFun.top down the road to try with some SS430 I'd like to get.

 

[Oregon Linda]

I also tried out the Kayfun grub screw, not the 510 screw (didn't have a spare one). But I just found out something interesting - Fast Tech offers the Kayfun 4 510 screw.

$1.02 Replacement 510 Contact Screw for Kayfun V4 - stainless steel at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

 

[TrollDragon]

Well good news!
I managed to get it working this morning, bubbles are rising which is a good sign!

Put a regular 26g 0.6 ohm build in it and the glass tank back on. I like the look of the SS tank, but until it is working 100% the glass can stay.

I trimmed the bottom of the Rayon back quite a ways to act as a lower wick and left the other half up on the deck, trimmed back on an angle and away from the edge by a smidgen. I figured the wick cut back down in the channel would allow juice to pool in there better than wick at the edge.

So far so good, we'll see how it plays out during the day.

Please excuse the poor drawing, I am not an artist by any means and I hope it makes sense.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

Yeah, I am not a fan of Ni200 either, too soft to work with but the annealed stuff is ok.

Just to avoid confusion, annealing makes it even softer, work hardening makes it springier!!

 

[TrollDragon]

Just to avoid confusion, annealing makes it even softer, work hardening makes it springier!!

Thanks ToSS!
The Lightning Vapes spool was sitting right beside me too, with TEMPERED written on it.
Post Corrected.

 

[Vicshalls]

I got mine today from 3f and it too has the short 510. The screws I listed before are the right threading but it is a little long. I will have to shorten it down to get it to work. So this little project will have to wait til maybe the weekend. I do however like the look of it and am really looking forward to getting to try it out.

 

[Adekastos]

Wow just had a lot of hard time building and wicking this thing but the reward worth it. Well biggest problem i had was with the 510 pin, tried some spare orings from aqua v2 but they were too thick and the insulation kept popping up and i got constant no atomizer, but then i just unscrewed the 510 pin enough to make a connection and boom steady ohms and everything went ok. Also a big thanks to everyone for posting pictures of your builds and wickings you have helped me big time.

 

[DP2Raja]

Got mine yesterday. Successful 1st build 26 ga kanthal, 5 wraps, 0.78, Result was decent flavor, wicked well with Japanese cotton. Went through a full tank. No leaks, no dry hits. But flavor was below my Aqua v2 and my Tilemahos. Airflow was decent. Slightly restricted LH, but so are the other flavor chasers I mentioned. I thought it was a noisy burn/coil. Not sure what that is about.

Recoiled with 28 ga, 8 wraps, 1.2 ohm. Same noisy burn/coil. No real improvement in flavor. Just decent.

Overall impression is that the hassle of the dry burn process with the extra part and assembly/disassembly that the GEM is not going to be in my daily rotation.
Nicely built. Looks beautiful on my Sigelei 60W TC. Would not fire on my Snow Wolf though. When I finally extended the 510 out to fire, it would fluctuate and then error out. I know I can put a KF4 pin in and resolve that.

Oh well. I will try some different builds this weekend, but there are not a lot of variations possible with the size and configuration of the deck.

 

[ate63]

I put a piece of 30 or 28ga.canthal in the 510 receiver hole, then screwed in the 510 pin. Twisted off the canthal flush at the base. Very tight 510, no fluctuations, and sticking out 1-2mm below insulator. Wicking a little tricky, but after a few attempts, it's wicking 80/20 Vg Pg great. 1.22 ohm 28ga 7 wrap around 2.45mm sitting deep as possible in deck at 10-13 watts.

 

[i_L1fe]

Received Gem clone this evening via Gearbest. Cleaned twice with dish soap + brush + soap soak but still has machine oil coming through.
Going to let it soak in alcy overnight without o rings. orings in soap.
Experiencing same short pin as mentioned.
Also...has anyone experienced issue with that oring inside the chimney? Despite putting some juice on it prior to installing the deck it's had a lot of resistance and I already see it starting to tear. Anyone know its size? Bummer on no spares.
Do not really understand the design of the top fill orings not being secured in any way. They will be lost soon. Does it leak without them? Ideally they would have an internal insert inside top cap similar to how the KFL+ v2 top oring that seals the chimney and cannot move.
Hope to get flav going on this...the small size and juice capacity is impressive.
Side note same order came the Ubertoot clone which is vaping very nicely.
TTFN

 

[Devlinukr]

I found the Ubertoot far superior to the gem, especially with the shorter tanks on.

The deck of the gem is just too small and inflexible for me. I have the same problem with the Squape RS decks but at least they're interchangeable and the B deck makes it my favourite flavour atty.