Hmmm, lots of oil in there. And flavor agents (e.g the pyrazones).
Pyrazines info:
PYRAZINE DERIVATIVES (JECFA Food Additives Series 48)
Pyrazines info:
PYRAZINE DERIVATIVES (JECFA Food Additives Series 48)
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tbh it's fairly obvious that there's a lot less of those ingredients
actually in the liquid than that list implies.
It's a 'safe trading' generalisation of the analysis & known-additives.
I think they've quoted the upper limits and then some (except the PG),
to be sure they don't have a 'trades description' type error.
If an ingredient was 50 parts per million,
then <1% covers it just as well as if it was 999 parts per million
The tobacco 'oils' are going to be in all e-liquids,
except maybe Nick O'Teen double-distilled home-brew.
actually in the liquid than that list implies.
It's a 'safe trading' generalisation of the analysis & known-additives.
I think they've quoted the upper limits and then some (except the PG),
to be sure they don't have a 'trades description' type error.
If an ingredient was 50 parts per million,
then <1% covers it just as well as if it was 999 parts per million
The tobacco 'oils' are going to be in all e-liquids,
except maybe Nick O'Teen double-distilled home-brew.
Hi exo ....yes I guess if you gave a complete breakdown of all the chemicals found in a drop of tap water the list would still be quite long.8-o
Not convinced about the oils; possibly added separately. But take your point n % when a '<' added.
There are lots of 'flavorings' in there; those are probably added separately.
But of course it's the VG (low% but there) that interests me most.
Why would the oils not be part & parcel of the tobacco extract,
I think that's what Nick O'Teen implied with his single-distilled homebrew.
Having said that I think the standard 'natural tobacco flavour' contains a
lot more of those oils but as an added ingredient.
Personally I wouldn't call <20% a 'small' amount of VG,
I wonder what the approx. real figure is.
Pete, tap water is absolutely pure, contains no chlorine/flourine,
iron, alum, phosphates, nitrates or anything else - honest.
Bloke down the pub told me.
I think that's what Nick O'Teen implied with his single-distilled homebrew.
Having said that I think the standard 'natural tobacco flavour' contains a
lot more of those oils but as an added ingredient.
Personally I wouldn't call <20% a 'small' amount of VG,
I wonder what the approx. real figure is.
Pete, tap water is absolutely pure, contains no chlorine/flourine,
iron, alum, phosphates, nitrates or anything else - honest.
Bloke down the pub told me.
But aside from ingredients, the important thing is that the inhalation of black particles, possibly laced with mercury, tin and others, is a real issue that once again hilights the need to create juices that leave no deposit. And one of the main culprits is the use of simple tobacco extracts.
In case of VG it's proly about 15%.
Tap water contains every known chemcal/drug there is!
Don't see your point Exo - bold bit. Any oils that distilled will distill again (vape without leaving a deposit), unlikely to cause deposit problems; UNLESS oxidised perhaps ...
If you remember the dry-residue tests, Ruyan little, TW oily deposit. So some heavier oils might not get distilled/vaped. RjG got oily deposits from cigar style juices.
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I meant the oils are carried across in high enough amounts in
'normal' production, that careful double distillation might well reduce them.
That's what I understood Nick O'Teen to postulate
- perhaps he can speak for himself.
Then again without them perhaps e-liquid would be to 'dry' and
unsatisfying ?
'normal' production, that careful double distillation might well reduce them.
That's what I understood Nick O'Teen to postulate
- perhaps he can speak for himself.
Then again without them perhaps e-liquid would be to 'dry' and
unsatisfying ?
Any that distill at 230c and below would be no problem. Some commercial juices leave an oily dry residue; possibly from a less purified tobacco extract. Not sure what the debate is here!
Haha you must talk to the same guy I sometimes talk to.
Can't actually be me as I prefer wine
Ohhh Sad day ....17 full days of heavy use and this morning my atty died..here is a picture of it after 17 days of using the dry burn method of cleaning and nothing else. It is the cleanest dead atty I have ever seen!! It's the only one I have had without any big lumps of black gunk.
View attachment 2246
View attachment 2246
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At least it had a good life
Looks pretty clean(ish),
what do you think the cause of failure was?
Can you see if the coil wire is broken anywhere,
and where are the solder blobs (I can't make them out in the piccy) ?
Looks pretty clean(ish),
what do you think the cause of failure was?
Can you see if the coil wire is broken anywhere,
and where are the solder blobs (I can't make them out in the piccy) ?
Pete - condolences on your loss.
Well, at least this situation has proved the burn-off method can keep the atty clean.
We need to no why it couldn't continue for, say, a few more weeks/months
Was the burn-off method both saviour and killer?
Need some more clues Pete ...
Well, at least this situation has proved the burn-off method can keep the atty clean.
We need to no why it couldn't continue for, say, a few more weeks/months
Was the burn-off method both saviour and killer?
Need some more clues Pete ...
Hi exo.....the break is towards your right hand end, it hasn't broken near the soldered connections which are below it in the picture...it's just a clean break in the wire...it certainly doesn't seem as if the wire has been 'forced' apart by gunk or anything ..just a simple failure. Although I had just changed the juice to TW, I don't think that had anything to do with it because it is still quite clean. Normally the Atomizers I have taken apart after just a few days use have been absolutely covered in the black gunk so this dry burning has certainly helped to keep it off the coil.
Hi Kinaba.....yes that's the trouble but how can we answer that one?
It's amazingly clean !
Just a little tarnish on the wire itself.
Maybe need a bit less burn next time - in terms either of voltage or time applied?
Btw, Pete, have all your attys come from the same place?
And do you take a particularly long draw? Or stop the draw before releasing button? Or anythng else unusual ?
And do you take a particularly long draw? Or stop the draw before releasing button? Or anythng else unusual ?
Well I used my mod all the time and I also used it to do the burns...so I was burning at about 5.6 volts max....I did it three times a day and I only kept it on until I could see the red glow and then shut it off straight away..I didn't keep it glowing for any length of time, so the only thing I could do is perhaps try doing it less often. That's a RN 4072...do you guys have a suggestion for a better atty and where I should buy it from...I should be able to use almost any penstyle because the way I have made my mod they only 'plug' into it.
Maybe the RN 4072 is one of those run hotter, live shorter type attys. ~5V is quite high, but some attys do ok with it.
I wonder of the altered color of the nichrome wire is a deposit of tin (that did not burn off) and this reduces the coil resistance ... ?
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