Goliath by Youde

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MagicJosh

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I never pre order anything but for the Goliath V2 with all those Amazon features I couldn't stop myself. Damn it even comes with pre built coils if needed you can screw the deck off. And it has a plug for one side if needed to make. Temp control single coil. So sick! May be the best tank to date. Also the juice can be shut off of your traveling and don't want to leak or for sure safety. Looks too cool to pass up on.
 
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Oktyabr

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Anyone have a coil formula for running the Goliath V1 on a mech? I get tons of vapor but very little flavor compared to my drippers...

I have preferred dual coil, big air drippers for quite awhile now. I work long days in the woods and wanted something that was "vape and forget", because friends don't let friends drip and drive ;) Needs to be "field serviceable". I like the Goliath because I can quickly and easily fill it (a couple of times a day), change out the cotton and even tweak the coils a bit without using any special tools. I tend to build around 0.4-0.6 ohms, usually 26 gauge kanthal although I have tried 28 and 30 too. I've tried everything from 1.5mm to 3mm coils, all the way from just above the air holes to the highest point of the coil being level with the top of the posts and I've tried everything from wide open on the air to almost choked down completely. I use organic Japanese cotton and trim it so it fits in the corners >above< the juice wells and never seem to get any dry hits.

It works great has been highly reliable but I wish I could get more flavor out of it. My better drippers seem to have WAY more flavor on the same cotton and juice.

Is there a way to get max flavor out of this atty on a MECH, does it need the higher wattage available to a DNA type box mod, or did I get a defective unit?
 

Mad Scientist

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Anyone have a coil formula for running the Goliath V1 on a mech? I get tons of vapor but very little flavor compared to my drippers...

I have preferred dual coil, big air drippers for quite awhile now. I work long days in the woods and wanted something that was "vape and forget", because friends don't let friends drip and drive ;) Needs to be "field serviceable". I like the Goliath because I can quickly and easily fill it (a couple of times a day), change out the cotton and even tweak the coils a bit without using any special tools. I tend to build around 0.4-0.6 ohms, usually 26 gauge kanthal although I have tried 28 and 30 too. I've tried everything from 1.5mm to 3mm coils, all the way from just above the air holes to the highest point of the coil being level with the top of the posts and I've tried everything from wide open on the air to almost choked down completely. I use organic Japanese cotton and trim it so it fits in the corners >above< the juice wells and never seem to get any dry hits.

It works great has been highly reliable but I wish I could get more flavor out of it. My better drippers seem to have WAY more flavor on the same cotton and juice.

Is there a way to get max flavor out of this atty on a MECH, does it need the higher wattage available to a DNA type box mod, or did I get a defective unit?

My mechs are all put away a while ago but just looking at it from a power perspective you might consider coming down in resistance a bit. While 0.4 should do the job maybe marginally, 0.5 and up is not enough power. Using 26 AWG or up, I'd aim for at least 40 watts, and try for closer to 50 on the high end -- 0.35 ohm. 2.5 mm ID on the wick works well for me -- any bigger than that and airflow around the wick starts to become an issue.
 
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Oktyabr

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My mechs are all put away a while ago but just looking at it from a power perspective you might consider coming down in resistance a bit. While 0.4 should do the job maybe marginally, 0.5 and up is not enough power. Using 26 AWG or up, I'd aim for at least 40 watts, and try for closer to 50 on the high end -- 0.35 ohm. 2.5 mm ID on the wick works well for me -- any bigger than that and airflow around the wick starts to become an issue.

Thanks for the idea, Mad Scientist.

So I went ahead and recoiled it. 26 gauge kanthal, 6/5 wrap around a 2mm jig. Tests out at 0.3 ohms which should be 58 watts on a battery fresh off the charger down to about 43 (3.6 volts), where I normally swap it out for a fresh one. I put the coils up high, so the highest point on the coil is level with the top of the posts. Fresh cotton, full air, wide open juice control, 12mg "Green Apple" max VG, my daily vape.

Definitely tastes hotter but negligible improvement in the flavor department. I'll have to borrow someone's box mod and see if there is any difference, although I suspect there won't be much, if any at all.

Defective unit? Maybe it just doesn't like max VG?
 

Mad Scientist

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Thanks for the idea, Mad Scientist.

So I went ahead and recoiled it. 26 gauge kanthal, 6/5 wrap around a 2mm jig. Tests out at 0.3 ohms which should be 58 watts on a battery fresh off the charger down to about 43 (3.6 volts), where I normally swap it out for a fresh one. I put the coils up high, so the highest point on the coil is level with the top of the posts. Fresh cotton, full air, wide open juice control, 12mg "Green Apple" max VG, my daily vape.

Definitely tastes hotter but negligible improvement in the flavor department. I'll have to borrow someone's box mod and see if there is any difference, although I suspect there won't be much, if any at all.

Defective unit? Maybe it just doesn't like max VG?

I guess the question is flavor compared to what? I'd say try dripping on the wicks to see if your wicking needs improvement. Wet wicks with the build you describe can't help but produce gobs of vaper with decent flavor. If it still isn't satisfactory when you drip the wicks wet, your expectations might not be realistic.

Also, your wicks might be too high. I'm trying to picture this in my minds eye but if the wicks are even with the top of the posts, they will also be very near the top of the chamber. Might have too much of the air bypassing the wicks in that configuration or just flowing under the coils around the back, post side instead of around both sides. Hard to say but might be worth having a close look at.
 
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Oktyabr

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I guess the question is flavor compared to what? I'd say try dripping on the wicks to see if your wicking needs improvement. Wet wicks with the build you describe can't help but produce gobs of vaper with decent flavor. If it still isn't satisfactory when you drip the wicks wet, your expectations might not be realistic.

Also, your wicks might be too high. I'm trying to picture this in my minds eye but if the wicks are even with the top of the posts, they will also be very near the top of the chamber. Might have too much of the air bypassing the wicks in that configuration or just flowing under the coils around the back, post side instead of around both sides. Hard to say but might be worth having a close look at.

This tank was intended to replace one of my dual coil drippers at work. I tend to favor the Tobh Atty and those that are similar to it. I usually build 26 gauge, 6/5 wraps (or 7/6? I don't remember) around a 3mm jig for 0.5 ohms. That is what I am comparing to. Same mech, same cotton, same drip tip, same juice.

I'll try lowering the coils and see what happens but I gathered what appeared was a consensus, in this thread, that higher coils meant better flavor.

Thanks for hanging in there with me. Sort of wish someone would build this thing for a mech and tell me it's still got "awesome flavor".

EDIT:

OK, lowered the coils. They are maybe 1.5mm above the air holes and I placed them as close to centered as I could get without risking a short against the chamber wall. Flavor is MUCH better! Not sure it's >as good< as a Tobh Atty with a similar coil/wick setup but it's much closer to that goal than when I first started.

Current setup: dual coil of 26 gauge kanthal (round), 6/5 wraps around a 2mm jig, "micro style" for 0.3 ohms, stuffed with just enough organic cotton to make a snug fit, without distorting the coils. Cotton pre-wetted and carefully trimmed to fit the "corners" nicely. Coils 1 - 1.5mm (I can slide a 1mm jig under them and a 1.5mm rubs so I don't force it) above the air holes and centered as closely as possible for maximum air flow. Somewhere around 55 watts (fresher battery) and 45 watts (swap that sucker out) on an un-kicked mech.

Thanks for the help!
 
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ThunderDan

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This tank was intended to replace one of my dual coil drippers at work. I tend to favor the Tobh Atty and those that are similar to it. I usually build 26 gauge, 6/5 wraps (or 7/6? I don't remember) around a 3mm jig for 0.5 ohms. That is what I am comparing to. Same mech, same cotton, same drip tip, same juice.

I'll try lowering the coils and see what happens but I gathered what appeared was a consensus, in this thread, that higher coils meant better flavor.

Thanks for hanging in there with me. Sort of wish someone would build this thing for a mech and tell me it's still got "awesome flavor".
I never found this atty to have awesome flavor, regardless of the mod, more of a cloud chasing tank. Flavor was good, maybe kinda muted, with descent vapor production. Definitely not as good as my RDAs, but still a good vape.
 
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Oktyabr

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I never found this atty to have awesome flavor, regardless of the mod, more of a cloud chasing tank. Flavor was good, maybe kinda muted, with descent vapor production. Definitely not as good as my RDAs, but still a good vape.

Well, I knew it was a good possibility that that would end up being the truer version of the story. I still have probably a square yard of medical grade stainless steel mesh and a box full of genesis style RTA (AGA-T2 mostly) that I haven't touched in over a year because dual coil sub ohm drippers just won me over on flavor. I wondered about this one too... especially after reading a ton of reviews that said flavor was great. Some even said it was BETTER than the drippers they used! I was prepared to write it off to "the next cool thing" bias but still had my hopes up.

I'll keep using it at work, at least. I can make a 10 hour shift on a single battery and one or two refills. Beats the hell out of dripping several times an hour; and like you said, it DOES do pretty good vapor production! Had me worried after my Magma dripper turned out to have rather smallish air flow.
 

xklipx

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Got my kraken glass today. It works, but it isn't perfect. It's a hair to tall. The topcap doesn't screw down the completely. I add a few wraps of Teflon tape to ensure a seal. I also swapped out the topcap o-ring with a black one from my Goblin spares. Replacement o-rings with the same OD/ID but a tad thinner would make the glass work perfect.

YMMV

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Woohoo I finally have a use for the Kraken I bought!!
 
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AtmizrOpin

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Hey guys, maybe you can answer this question. Can I top fill my goliath V1? Reason for asking is, every time I unscrew the base to fill, I noticed that my wicks would get a little molested and leads to my tank pisssing all over my mod when reinstalling the base of the tank. Or should I cram a little more wick in the channels?
 

ThunderDan

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Hey guys, maybe you can answer this question. Can I top fill my goliath V1? Reason for asking is, every time I unscrew the base to fill, I noticed that my wicks would get a little molested and leads to my tank pisssing all over my mod when reinstalling the base of the tank. Or should I cram a little more wick in the channels?
I used to top fill the Goliath v1 when I had one, but you kind of have to be careful. Now I do the same on the Gv2. Close off juice control, take a couple puffs to dry out your wicks a bit, top fill holding glass down, then open juice control and go. Optionally you can flip the tank as your tightening the top cap down after filling.
 
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Mad Scientist

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Hey guys, maybe you can answer this question. Can I top fill my goliath V1? Reason for asking is, every time I unscrew the base to fill, I noticed that my wicks would get a little molested and leads to my tank pisssing all over my mod when reinstalling the base of the tank. Or should I cram a little more wick in the channels?

The juice control would have made it a natural for top fill but there's no certain way to make sure the center chimney section doesn't unscrew from its lower end. No big deal if it's already pretty much empty when you go to unscrew it but a bit of a pain when it happens. Have a paper towel handy.
 

ThunderDan

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The juice control would have made it a natural for top fill but there's no certain way to make sure the center chimney section doesn't unscrew from its lower end. No big deal if it's already pretty much empty when you go to unscrew it but a bit of a pain when it happens. Have a paper towel handy.
Hmm, I've never had that problem (not saying it can't happen), granted I'm using the v2 these days. The chimney shouldn't really move at all, it has those notches in it that go into the juice control area.
 

Mad Scientist

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Hmm, I've never had that problem (not saying it can't happen), granted I'm using the v2 these days. The chimney shouldn't really move at all, it has those notches in it that go into the juice control area.

The v1 has a two piece chimney; the upper part of the chimney unscrews. I have a v2 inbound from China (that I hope arrives before new year lol).
 

ThunderDan

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The v1 has a two piece chimney; the upper part of the chimney unscrews. I have a v2 inbound from China (that I hope arrives before new year lol).
Oh yeah, that's right, heh, been a while since I used it. Not sure if it was just mine, but if you tightened the middle chimney section onto the base part / chimney barrel, it effectively made it a one piece chimney.

Honestly I didn't care for the Goliath until I got a v2, hopefully it arrives soon for you.
 
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AtmizrOpin

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Ok, so I dropped my goliath V1. Glass still intact. However, I can't get the build deck off now. It won't unscrew. The only place to grab onto with vice grips is the juice control ring while putting a screwdriver in one of the air holes at the base for leverage. But I know I'll make it out of round if I clamp down on it. I'm thinking it's done unless I sacrifice the JCR as a vice point. Any thoughts?
 
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