GP Series by VapourArt - Advance Notifications, Tips & Tricks & Updates Thread

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perseas

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GP HERON TIPS & TRICKS

By Chadsmo

Crossed build

Alright. By far my favourite Heron build to date. To say it's annoying to build is a slight understatement but it was well worth it.

This is using 30awg and I wrapped them around a toothpick that I broke in half. There is not a lot of room to work with but with some patience it fits.

I wrapped the coils on the center of the toothpick, took them off and torched them and quenched them a few times. The top coil still separated a bit due to how you have to mount it , but there's no hot spots and it lights up well. After getting them nice and right insert the pointy end of the tooth pick and push until you feel just enough resistance to hold it in place, it makes pulling it out much easier.

Place the bottom coil in and have the leads coming off the top of the coil because it needs to stay low so it doesn't touch the top coil. Wrap the leads around the posts to keep them in place. The put the top coil on and have the leads come off the bottom. There is not a ton of room between the coil and the bell so you probably don't want it any higher than I have it. I leave my leads really long when I wrap coils so for the top coil I can pass them around half way and being them back the other way and pin them in place against the tube. Then with those pinned down you can snug up the bottom leads and tighten down the screws. That part is a little annoying because the toothpick the top coil is in will be in the way.



For a wick I just take one strand of SnC yarn and pull it half to have two wicks consisting of two individual strands. Pull them through with a bit of kanthal and trim them to the right length.



This build is definitely annoying to get right. There is very little room between the airhole in the deck and the two coils to not have anything touching , but for me it's the best build I've had in the Heron by far. Both coils being right above the airhole in the deck is much better than having them side by side and level. The flavour and vapour is just fantastic.
 
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perseas

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GP PAPS TIPS & TRICKS

How to get the GP PAPS v1, v2, v2.1 and v2.5 locking ring unstuck

what is the best way to get a stuck 2.5 switch loose again? it can't be turned to lock/unlock - I don't want to force it by use of pliers or doing something bad to that beauty

Wrap a scotch tape around the switch base and the tube to stick them together, put a rubber band around the locking ring for a better grip, knock it lightly on a wooden surface to help it move (and for luck :) ) and then you'll be able to turn it.

I know that it sounds like a ritual, but it is harmless for the vaper and the mod :D
 

perseas

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GP PAPS TIPS & TRICKS

By Qorax

A Night Job

~a 'must do' routine, at least once a month

10msrpw.jpg

1. Soap water bath
2. Scrubbed with an old toothbrush
3. Polished twice
4. Washed & dried again before assembly
 

perseas

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GP PnB (Polisher & Brusher) ADAPTER TIPS & TRICKS

By Gunnygt49

Completed a mini project today with a little carelessness on my part. Decided to brush my polished tube of my Spheroid to match my brushed SS v3 and X.

IMAG0678_zps2bc4b5e2.jpg


Purchased the PnB adapter which is makes this job VERY easy.

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Because I only wanted to brush the tube, I covered the base with electric tape which attaches to the female part of the PnB adapter. I made sure that there was no tape covering the tube when I screwed it on.

IMAG0685_zps9d37c60c.jpg


I then connected it to my dremel, which turned out to be my mistake. If you have a drill, use it..I ended up warping and bending my PnB adapter, I'm assuming from the centripetal force when I went at a faster speed. I know I should have taken the advice chad and idaho gave me, but did not think it was absolutely necessary and also because I did not have my drill with me. So please if you are going to use a dremel with the PnB adapter, only use at low speeds and do not apply too much force on the atty or mod you are polishing/brushing.
I started from 2000 grit paper all the way to 600 grit so I could slowly find the exact look I wanted.

After below:

IMAG0680_zps2bcb6c44.jpg


Before below:

IMAG0686_zps7d87346e.jpg


Final below:

IMAG0691_zps133c0359.jpg


Overall I am very pleased with the results. I plan to re-brush the tube with a drill for a more consistent look and feel
 

perseas

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Pay attention from whom you buy the AW batteries please.

In the last couple of days I have been on a few sites (wholesale) that offered AW batteries below wholesale costs. Attached is a correspondence with the man himself Wan Hoi, known to us as Andrew Wan. Fellow vapers need to realize that quality is expensive. AW batteries are expensive due to the rigorous QA & QT that goes into the production of each cell, not dissimilar to the QA & QT demanded by vapers wrt liquids. This QA & QT demanded by the industry (not ours) since AW batteries originated from the flashlight industry, amongst others. E-cigarettes only represent a fraction of the total AW market.

Why is this important? With all the sub-ohm vapers out there, it is of paramount importance that you use a cell that can withstand the abuse of sub-ohm vaping and on one that you can count on to vape reasonably safe, because the practice of sub-ohm vaping is only marginally safe.

Our discussion...

<<Hi Rick,

Please note counterfeit AW batteries with hologram label have been found circulating in the market now. Details
shown in the attached pictures.
Best Regards,
Andrew Wan
Owner / Founder of AW Batteries ( Est.2005 )>>

Andrew,

Thanks for the heads up good buddy. I was wondering about that especially since Heaven Gifts has the 18650 for sale on their site and I doubt that you are supplying them.

Rick

<<Rick,

They are fakes. I have not supplied anything to them.

I am the owner/Founder of AW Batteries. I have no distribution channel in mainland China - meaning
I don't supply to any business or individuals in China. Wholesale orders are shipped from my
office location in Hong Kong.


Regards,
Andrew>>

View attachment 337987

View attachment 337988

View attachment 337989

View attachment 337990

View attachment 337991

AW batteries are only sold to reputable dealers, therefore if the deal is to good to be true, they are fakes. These batteries sell at 50-60% below wholesale and a similar price is reflected on the retail value.

And from whom you buy the Sony VTC batteries as well.


More fake Sony VTC5 batteries may have been sold, this time from a reputable dealer, Illumination Supply. The following FaceBook notice was posted as an email sent out to customers who had been sold the batteries.

"To Whom it May Concern:You are receiving this email because a recent batch of Sony VTC5s we received passed our initial test inspection systems but were ultimately found to be counterfeit. Our first priority is to ensure the safety of our end users and advise to pull the VTC5s from retail if you are a wholesale customer. You have the option of a complete refund no questions asked from this batch of VTC5s or you can opt to wait for a confirmed authentic restock (no ETA at this time) with no need to return the counterfeit cells. We have determined that the counterfeit VTC5s are actually re-wrapped Samsung 25Rs which are rated for 20A discharge and 2500mAh capacity. We have received a total of 2 separate shipments from different suppliers of this new kind of counterfeit cell, please be warned that their performance is very similar to VTC5s and would not be that noticeable without testing equipment, if you do choose to purchase VTC5s from a different supplier than Illumn/Illumination Supply be aware of this unique counterfeit that is on the market now as it has fooled several different suppliers as well. We apologize deeply for the mistake and will continue improve our testing process to ensure it never happens again.

If you are curious about the results of our battery test they can be seen below. The best fit line for the counterfeit VTC5s match closely with Samsung 25Rs and are extremely likely to be 25Rs. Our original 35A continuous test showed the counterfeits outperforming the authentic VTC5s for the first portion of the continuous test and passed our original assessment. Further investigation pointed towards the Samsung 25R as the actual internal cell which are only rated for 20A due to heat production at higher amp ratings. Consulting the datasheet for the Samsung 25R and our test data, we conclude that it is not suitable for a 30A continuous discharge due to heat generated and possible cell longevity issues. In terms of pulse use (which is what the majority of vaping would be considered), the Samsung 25Rs are capable of 30A pulses for durations of 6 seconds."

_____________

Even more shocking, the same Face Book post also had this comment, "Sony discontinued vtc batteries. they will no longer be a part of the Vaping industry." This was posted by the owner/operator of Simply E-Juice, Steven Manley.

Anyone heard any news of Sony discontinuing their VTC batteries? I had already read that they were discontinuing their 26650 battery. What's up with this? If true, could this be a precautionary reaction to potential liability issues due to the nature of the customer base who primarily use these batteries for extreme sub-ohm vaping?

I know that the battery manufacturers have not been too keen on us using these batteries in single cell use in our mods; they were designed to be used in battery packs of multiple batteries for cars and airliners. Have we just lost our best battery available to us?

Sun Vapors has posted a blog on how to spot counterfeit Sony batteries. We all knew that this was coming. First AW. Now Sony.

How to Spot Fake Sony Batteries

New fake vtc5 out there. Even harder to tell.

Fake VTC5 Information - Imgur

Most likely a rewrapped 20A (Samsung 25R).

smooth bottom and identical printing

I have 2 Sony VTC 5 batteries and they seem to work fine with my vtr. After doing some searching online,it seems that Sony officially stopped making them after the vtc3. There seems to be alot of different information about batteries on different sites. I found a good video on the subject its long and hope it helps.

Vaping & Batteries: Things You Should Know

 

perseas

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GP PAPS X Ti Edition UPDATE

Vapourart_IMG_6977.jpg


The GP PAPS X Ti Edition will come with alubronze X ring and alubronze switch base as default configuration and inside the hidden pocket of the included double GP Holster will be a 316 SS X ring and a 316 SS switch base. An extra silver plated GPin with longer pin, an extra o-ring for the AFC, 2 extra springs will be supplied and of course a GP Fork :) Both switch bases shall have the same serial numbers. These SS parts with 3 digits as opposed to 4 digits of the brushed switch base from the X SS Edition are under production and they'll come out in polished finish. We want a week to finish and 3-4 days to polish, assemble and check them. Therefore, the Ti Vapourday will come during the first days of July with a prior notice and a normal Vapourday will be announced soon for the rest products of the GP Series.
 

perseas

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GP HERON - GP SPHEROID TIPS & TRICKS

SnC build, KGD build and GP Fluff v2 length

By Cliffy15

FWIW, since some people were talking about it...

I've been building my coils around a 2.4mm precision screwdriver so I can get the amount of wick I want (single loop) that will hold it's shape, not longer than it needs to be and have a fair amount of wick capacity (if that makes any sense - for bouts of chain vaping). then I tailor my coil gauge for the resistance I want at 6/7 wraps ... which ends up at 28 gauge coming in at 1.3 ohms.

I use the exact same setup in my Spheroids as well as my Herons. And it works well with both PnC/SnC and KGD (about 2-3mm wide -the pad was halved - rolled very slightly then bent, and pulled, to form a single loop) but I like the performance of KGD better even if I have to rewick more often than the cotton yarn.

PnC

aduge2y8.jpg


KGD (sorry, this one is NOT pretty and it's been primed)

agy9yse8.jpg


The only difference in builds between the Spheroid and Heron (aside from the obvious cotton topper in the Heron) is the fluff. I use 20mm X 40mm in the Spheroid and appx 17mm X 60mm in the Heron for 50/50 juice and about 5mm less (the long way) for 100% VG.

These are my all-day knock-around builds. I also have a dual coil (same coil as above) build for those few times that I want even more vapor production and don't care that I blow through my liquid.

edit: oh, and in the Heron build I also always have the loop positioned opposite of the AFC. I get optimal wicking while vaping this way... I vape with the AFC facing upwards to aid the juice flow in fluff and can vape it all the way down.

Fluff

I, too, started my Spheroid and Heron builds with the help of the Internet (and this forum as well). I think starting with (fluff v2) dimensions of 20mm x 40mm for the Spheroid and 17mm x 60mm for the Heron makes for a pretty good base point. Now, I primarily use 50/50 eliquids and those starting dimensions work great with any wick I've used; the fluff isn't too tightly packed as to reduce capacity and it isn't too loose to not hold onto the eliquid and flood the atty.

However, we all know that all liquids aren't the same and I recently got a taste (pun intended) of that recently when all of a sudden my Heron would flood even though I used the same eliquid, and build, for months before.

Unfortunately, it took me awhile to track it down to the fact that my eliquid was thinner - due to added flavor shots which were, presumably, PG-based. An extra 10mm of fluff in the Heron tank and, voila, fixed!

Thinner liquids (more PG) need more fluff and more viscous liquids need less fluff. A good general rule of thumb, for me, is to adjust fluff length in 5mm increments for the Spheroid and 10mm increments for the Heron. I use 20mm x 35mm (Spheroid) and 17mm x 50mm (Heron) for thicker (max vg) liquids and 20mm x 45mm (Spheroid) and 17mm x 70mm (Heron) for my thinner liquids ... like the 50/50 liquids that have extra flavor "shots" that I'm guessing to be PG-based.

I'm sure I could tweak it by a few millimetres, each way for each juice, but this generally seems to hold for me.

A little disclaimer to my build pics...

I don't claim to be an expert builder but there are some new Heron/Spheroid users here. Since I saw some build questions I put those up because my builds are simple, reproducible, and seem to leave room for error. Plus they work in both the Spheroid and the Heron.

For better, and more in depth, builds and tutorials please see the other posts here :)
 

perseas

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GP HERON TIPS & TRICKS

About wicking

By Idaholandho

I have found the Heron to wick incredibly. It is amazing as I have found a perfect relationship that allows me to vape hard without one dry hit.
Currently I am using just as P mentions and just moved one of the Heron's up to 2.5ish inches of fluff.
Never having much issue at all from gurgle, I think many are under the impression that it is just condensation. Some cases I have read the gurgling begins after a fill or build. This leads me to believe that it is from overfilling the Heron and pulling the juice into the chimney.
Look at your topper are there large juice puddles on the top? It is not condensation buildup after just a few draws. It is juice.

I also want to mention that I would much rather experience good wicking than poor wicking.

Variables

1) As many use a 1/16 inner diameter micro coil, obviously it limits our wick size.

2) Choice of wick, Most are using a form of cotton - many KGD or Cotton balls. The wick must slide through coil without resistance and I have found that sometimes my choice of wick of choice is too small to keep up with wicking(This is good! because I can alter wick).
Have you noticed the wicks small size fits through the topper with ample room for more wick? The chamber was designed for proportional wick's ability (x) flow of juice = X. *X=harmonious balance. This takes a bit of finding your perfect balance just like any other atomizer. I guarantee those with Kfuns, Sophias, drippers didnt nail your build for some time. Patience and practice as the Heron is an advanced vaping atomizer and a damn good one.

3) Fluff, as P mentions the amount of fluff is based on personal preference and as I mentioned it has to be in proportion to the wicks ability to wick at a constant and favorable measure.
Here are some photos of my coil and wicks(one or two have been posted prior but, information needs to be seen sometimes twice)
Here is a SnC wick. I spread out the tail to collect juice in well. No gurgle. This wick fits nicely through 1/16 coil and is sturdy to stand and with all cotton I am using the topper for extra lift. Wicks fantastic. 2 inches of fluff.

db_Akon_P.jpg


Notice the lack of juice on the deck! Its wicking GREAT!

9cnree2.jpg


KGD/balls are a bit more tricky due to the natural state of the medium. We've all seen it get limp and pathetic. I have an answer for you.
First here is another current build, 1/16 with KGD. Please note the juice on topper and the topper gap for the wick. A bit more juice on cap than prior due to the Heron wicking as it should but the wick can not totally keep up. I still love this build. No gurgling and a beautiful vape.

Here comes the kicker.
*Please Note - This is not a Heron Issue!* This may be a quick fix for the KGD's wicking issue due to the forced small size of wick.

Anyway, I have used this method on other atomizers due to my love for micro coils and the restrictive sizes of cotton wick. I have tested this on the Heron and it also works like a dream if you need. It is simple and obvious.
Cut another strip of KGD and lay it on top of the existing coiled wick, juice it and replace topper and vape your brains out. It fills the gap nicely on the topper and provides more wicking at a quicker pace.

i_XAng7n.jpg


ug29dh_B.jpg


I would say my biggest point is to spend time with the Heron, I think you will find it as Great as I do, I hope this at least helps one person :).
 
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