GP Series by VapourArt - Advance Notifications, Tips & Tricks & Updates Thread

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GP SnP TIPS & TRICKS

By raqball:

A few brief tips on using the Diver with the SnP.

Although the SnP has the top air and fill cap the Diver does not like to be filled while inside the SnP. If you do, the Diver will leak out of the 510 pin. Here is what I do and it's leak free every time

1) Use carto tool and slide the Diver out of the SnP just enough so the Divers juice hole is outside the SnP

2) Open fill port on top cap and fill to about 70-80% capacity
3) Close the top cap fill port
4) Slide Diver back into the SnP

I've been doing it this way for a while now and never have a leak. If I fill with the Diver's juice hole inside the SnP I get leaks every single time. I should note that this is not an issue with the SnP. It's an issue with the Diver and the odd voodoo pressure system it works on.

 

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GP PAPS X REVIEW

 

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GP PAPS SALT & PEPPER tank REVIEW

 

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GP SALT & PEPPER REVIEW

 

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GP PAPS V2.5 LUX EDITION REVIEW

 

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GP PAPS V2.5 LUX EDITION TIPS & TRICKS

By Qorax:

Polishing my Lux What did I do / use?


1. Removed the end caps,

2. Cleaned the Alu-Bronze tube under running lukewarm water,

3. Rinsed it with regular dishwashing liquid and gently hand scrubbed,

4. Washed up and dried it with a paper towel,

5. Applied Wright's Silver Cream and hand rubbed along the length of the tube (see note),

6. As it dried out, let it sit for a while (just about 5-6 minutes),

7. Then buffed all the cream off using a Polishing Cloth,

8. Washed the tube under running water and dried it with a paper towel,

9. Now, used the same polishing cloth to buff it for shine (just about 5-6 minutes),

10. Then reassembled everything up and vaped to glory! Oh yes, clicked those pics as well

NOTE:
a) This was my first use of polish over the Lux.
b) For application of the cream no cloth, sponge etc. are required.
c) Remember to apply the polish in straight strokes along one direction. Preferably in length.
d) Avoid circular motions, b'coz that tends to drop-in micro scratches, which'd be visible later.
e) Avoid anything but a polishing cloth, or an old soft T-shirt. B'coz others will leave scratches.
f) Once polishing has be resorted to - maintain the sheen with regular dry buffing (just by polishing cloth).
g) Perform the after wash - b'coz that'd remove any contaminants, especially on the threads.
h) Use the polishing cloth inside the tube as well. Keeping the innards clean helps!
k) Don't use polish, alcohol, spirits, or any severe scrubbing on the Contacts (they've Gold over Silver, remember?).
l) I treat my Lux as a piece of jewellery. Take li'l care of it and it'd never fail... it cannot√

Thank you Perseas and Team-GP for this wonderful device

 

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October 24, Vapourday

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GP Spheroid Replacement Kit v3

This kit has been made under request by the lovers of the screwdriver and the higher posts increase the throat hit of the draw.
It will be available from October 24, Vapourday.
It has the following parts (some of them are pictured above):

2x SS posts.
2x SS tightening screws.
2x SS post nuts.
2x PEEK thermoplastic insulators reinforced with glass fibres for stiffness and durability, FDA approved.
1x food grade plastic plate insulator.
1x food grade plastic 510 insulator.
3x Viton© food grade 11x1 O-rings.

CP Spheroid Replacement Kit v3

 

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GP Series - R&D adventures - sneak preview

The last days we keep breaking various routing cutters, knife blades and drills of extreme hardness, trying to tame a 25 mm titanium rod grade 2. Finally, we found the cutting speed, it is 4 times slower than the one needed for the 316 SS rods of GP PAPS X, a very time consuming process. If we ever achieve to make a mod from these rods, it will be a quite limited edition for sure!

Just a sneak preview from our R&D adventures.

Here is the first experimental SnP Ti tube engraved and polished.

Comparison with a SnP SS tube in appearance.

Comparison with a SnP SS tube in weight.

 

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MAINTENANCE TIPS & TRICKS

By Qorax

1. Regular Washing of the Mod:
A once a month 'shower' to our mods keep them from getting crunchy and move along their threads smoothly. It also enhances its sheen and ensures that any traces of e-liquid anywhere has been removed. Those fine specks of e-liquid could play a spoil sport in many ways.

2. Scrubbing and Polishing the internal Contacts:
Sans the Paps-X and the LUX (both with silver/gold plating), the brass contacts of others do accumulate oxidization residue, which adversely affects in conductivity. After washing them try polishing them too with any brass/metal polish (eg. Weiman's, Mother's, Nevr Dull etc.) and you'd find a sea of difference in the current it processes thru to your atty. It fires up with a bang, exactly as it was when new. I do so once a month as a routine maintenance of my mods. Note: Silver/Gold contacts (viz. Paps-X and LUX) just need normal soap wash and a dab with paper towel to get going. Do not scrub/polish them - lest you lose that precious metal coating.

3. Don't apply Noalox on the threads:
Feeling crunchy? Don't take Noalox to your threads! Neither any oil, grease, wax, polish, whatever. You'd render more harm than good. It'd affect your mod in two fronts: (a)it would hinder in conductivity, (b)and attract more dirt over the time, wherein your button/couplings/lock-ring will get crunchier. As mentioned before - just a soap water cleaning works out well.

4. Use Talcum Powder instead, if you must:
At most dab a tiny bit of talcum powder from the vanity room, over those irritating threads. Blow clear it off, and then try re-coupling them. You will find the thread joints get extremely smooth. And over some usage it'd disappear completely - leaving no trace/residue behind. A trick I learnt from my military stint.

5. Polish that brass:
Yes, we love our patina. But remember - patina also hinders in conductivity, besides gradually 'eating' into the metal. For those moments when we believe our brass mod (the Alu-Bronze LUX included) isn't behaving it's best - or we want the shine back ~ feel free to re-bolster the device with some Brass Polish*! I polished my LUX to it's original glory recently (Post #248) and it's doling out the power as it did on day-1!
___________________________________________________________________________
*A very personal choice ~ I avoid Brasso, b'coz of it's abrasive nature and the residue it leaves behind.

 

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November 8, Vapourday

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December 6, Vapourday

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GP PAPS X REVIEW

 

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GP SPHEROID TIPS & TRICKS

By Si G

So I decided to put my other Spheroid V3 upgrade in today, and thought I would grab some pictures as I have seen a few people on here asking about how to do it, so hopefully this will help out.

The V2 spheroid base sitting on top of a V3.1 bead blasted piccolo

This is what you will receive in the upgrade pack

The GP Fork tool is used to undo the base, if you dont have one, a pair of long nose pliers works as well. The base is REVERSE threaded, so make sure you turn the opposite way to undo it

Here is the base apart

Remove the thumb nuts

Then I grabbed a pair of long nose pliers and used them to hold onto the nuts on the outside, and a phillips screwdriver to under the post from below and you should end up with this

From the inside

You will notice one hole is smaller than the other, and in the upgrade kit, one post it longer than the other. Grab the smaller post, and screw it in to the smaller hole, then use a flathead screwdriver in the cut out's on the post to tighten up, this is the negative, will look like this

Get the two smaller insulators and the longer post, and place them into the second larger hole, one insulator goes on from the top, and one from the bottom, then again using the long nosed pliers, grab one of the replacement nuts and secure it in the pliers and use a flathead screwdriver to tighten up the post, this is the positive post, when finished should look like this

and from underneath

Then screw the base back, remembering it is reverse threaded

Finally, screw in your nuts, and you are good to go

You will have 3 o-rings, 2 insulators, and 1 nut spare, my spheroid is pretty new, so didn't need to change anything else out, and the spare nut is just that, spare

 

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GP HERON

HERON will be the name of GP Spheroid 22/23 atomizer to honour the Heron of Alexandria.

Hero (or Heron) of Alexandria (c. AD 10–70) was an ancient Hellene mathematician and engineer who was active in his native city of Alexandria, Roman Egypt. He is considered the greatest experimenter of antiquity and his work is representative of the Hellenistic scientific tradition.

He's best known for what we call Hero's turbine -- a steam-driven whirligig that worked a little like a modern jet engine. He did mechanics, astronomy, and math. It is almost certain that Heron taught at the Musaeum which included the famous Library of Alexandria, because most of his writings appear as lecture notes for courses in mathematics, mechanics, physics and pneumatics. Although the field was not formalised until the 20th century, it is thought that the work of Hero, his automated devices in particular, represents some of the first formal research into cybernetics.

You see, Hero invented feedback control devices. His self-filling wine bowl, for example, had a hidden float valve that automatically sensed the level of wine in a bowl. When guests ladled out wine, the bowl mysteriously refilled itself.

That's called a closed feedback loop. Egyptian inventors had been making gadgets like that for 300 years before Heron. They'd made feedback-controlled water-clocks and lamp-fillers.

By the time Heron lived, 2000 years ago, Rome had annexed Egypt, and intellectual freedom gave way to imperial authority. Heron was the end of an inventive age. Not 'til the 1600s was another feedback device invented. Feedback meant letting go of control -- letting a machine make its own decisions. Authoritarian minds don't like that.

Heron had set up a do-loop for what we call an iterative solution. The same person who worked with feedback control loops now gives us a wonderful computer do-loop. In either case we start a process and then let it pass out of our hands.

Heron's story has a moral: we have no freedom without letting go of control.

Heron ... was the last breath of a Golden Age in North Africa. It'd be 1600 years before math, mechanics, and human affairs would catch up with that fragile inventive freedom we sell so easily for security -- that we sell to satisfy our need to stay in control.

Sources:

Hero of Alexandria - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
No. 1038: Hero of Alexandria
Heron of Alexandria - Ancient Machines[/B]


Vapourart uses the symbol of aeolipile as our trademarked insignia from the beginning, because we are great admirers of this unique Hellene scientist.

My other thought is The Heron after Hero of Alexandria that is credited with the invention of the aeolipile. I say Heron and not Hero because Heron is an acceptable alternative and there are already devices call the Hero.

I think we have a winner here for the name contest about the GP Spheroid 22/23 mm Congratulations Chadsmo!
Thank you so much all of you guys and gulls for your participation, many names were really tempting for us to use and very well thought!

A few technical details:

The picture above shows Heron attached to a GP PAPS LUX mod.
Heron's capacity is around 5 ml, still checking though. A conversion ring will permit the atomizer to be used with GP PAPS X and GP PAPS v1, v2, v2.1, v2.5 mods via its proprietary connection M20x1 mm and M21x1 mm. It has also an AFC ring for adjusting the air. The atty is made from EU certified 316 SS. It includes a special designed drip tip. Photos and further details will be posted soon.

 

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GP PAPS X v1.5

Here is what is coming for the GP PAPS X v1.5 till the end of December 2013.

An insulator for the switch, which will be given for free to any of the owners of the GP PAPS X v1, in case they want to use batteries without a proper insulation at their bottom. In any of their future orders from Vapourart or from our resellers, they can leave a note in their order to include this insulator. These insulators will be in stock from next week.

Another thing is the GPin, a simple approach eliminating any need for adjusting the positive post in relation to the battery and the atomizer.

We designed the GPin on August 2013, but it wasn't ready until now, it is a spring loaded pin, a double ended pogo pin, a quite common solution in the industry and we thought to apply it to our mods.

We started on 2011 with a hot spring, back then people were experimenting with all kinds of batteries. On August 2012 we designed the telescopic post for the GP PAPS X, but we introduced it in the GP PAPS v2.1, because we couldn't find a CNC to follow our schematics for the precise switch of the X, which finally came out 13 months later. On August 2013 we designed the GPin, which will replace the telescopic centre post in our mods and the first mod with that kind of pin will be the GP PAPS X. The spring will be silver plated and the applied pressure onto the contacts will exceed 5 kg to ensure a proper conductivity. The GPin's insulator can be dismantled with the help of a fork or needle pliers.

For the current owners of the GP PAPS X v1:
Due to GPin's size, a new top cap is needed, which will be available as a spare at our store in a few days.

 

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GP SPHEROID TIPS & TRICKS

By Romelee

Loads of guides out there but i thought share this guide i made up:

Tools required:

1 x Tweezers
1 x Nail clippers
1 x Philips screwdriver or needle nose pliers (Depending on whether you have nuts or the new v3 kit with screws)
1 x Blowtorch or Lighter
1 x Paperclip or Pin
1 x Spheroid fork or a pair of needle nose pliers
1 x Ruler
1 x Scissors
1 x 0.2 Kanthal
1 x 3mm Silica wick
1 x Juwel Filter PolyPad Compact, it's what i use : Juwel Filter PolyPad Compact: Amazon.co.uk: Garden & Outdoors

Preparation for the GP Spheroid:

Use the Spheroid fork or the end of the needle nose pliers tips to remove base and turn clockwise (it has reverse threading) to remove the base:

Clean all parts in warm water and thoroughly dry and re-assemble the lower base back onto the main base anti-clockwise (it has reverse threading) you should now have this:

Before starting make sure your hands are clean as anything on them like grease etc will be going onto the wire/wick and filler.....you don't want that.

Building the GP Spheroid:

Step 1: Cut a bit of Juwel filter polypad too the size of 2.5cm x 4.5cm, Cut a bit of 3mm silica wick at 5cm length, Cut some 0.2 Kanthal at 10cm length

Step 2: Get your tweezers and hold the wick and torch it using your blowtorch or lighter, this should burn of any impurities on the wick:

Step 3: Hold the 0.2 Kanthal and torch the coil with your blowtorch or lighter until glowing red, this will make the wire less springy and easier too handle:

Step 4: Fold the 3mm silica wick in half to make a lasso:

Step 5: Get a paperclip or pin and hold the wick against it (gives you a more secure holding of the wick and wire when coiling) :

Step 6: Wrap the 0.2 Kanthal around the wick four times (gives around 1.8ohms), Wires should end up under the wick and facing opposite from each other:

Step 7: Place the wick/coil between the two posts in a diagonal position:

Before step 8: Decide whether you want more throat hit or less throat hit, the higher the coil the more throat hit, the lower the coil between the posts the less throat hit (very marginal though)

Step 8: Position your coil where you want it to be (as per above) and hold in place then wrap the end of the legs around each screw/nut and tighten up to secure the wires in place:

Step 9: Once the wires are secured wiggle the end of each wire too give a clean snap from each screw/nut:

Step 10: Attach the base too a device to make sure all resistances are fine and do some dry burns to make sure each wrap of coil is heating up evenly, if they ain't adjust until they do:

Step 11: Take your spheroid bell top and wrap the 2.5cm x 4.5cm Juwel filter polypad around it, not tight and not too loose:

Step 12: Place the spheroid shell around the bell top and screw into place trying to make sure no Juwel filter is on the thread of the bell top:

Step 13: Make some adjustments of the Juwel filter to make sure it is nicely and equally fitted into the spheroid shell and nothing is blocking the center tube:

Step 14: Choose your chosen juice and fill up a syringe (i prefer syringe) and insert the syringe down the side of the Juwel filter right too the bottom and fill up (i get around 2.5 too 3ml of juice).....once you see the top of the Juwel filter full of juice stop filling, if you have over done it get some tissue and soak up the overfill:

Step 15: Put some of the chosen juice on your wick and make sure you have no hot spots and that all is looking good:

Step 16: Get your base and with your fingers hold the lasso upwards and screw the base into the top part so that the lasso touches the fully juiced Juwel filter:

Step 17: All done and you can now vape away on one of the best tasting attys:

 

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GP SnP TIPS & TRICKS

By chadsmo

Working with RDAs like Sophia & Killer.

I don't know why this is never brought up when people have wicking issues and I'm totally guilty for that myself. The correct airflow is super important for tanks and attys like the Sofia. Good airflow is integral to keeping your vacuum to aid with wicking. Remember that the tightness of the draw isn't just a preference with tanks like it is with cloud chasing RDAs. When you inhale on an atty like a Sofia or Killer you're doing two things, pulling vapour up the tube and pulling liquid in to the atty. This is happening at the same time every time you take a drag. Just simply having your wicks wet is not enough. You NEED a good vacuum that is maintained via airflow. If it's too lose there isn't enough pressure applied to the internal airspace of the atty and and it doesn't suck the juice in, it simply passes right past the coil and goes to your mouth. If it's too tight , the pressure in the atty will be too high and you'll flood. This is why when you block off all the airflow and suck on it there will be juice forced in to the atty.

So this is my suggestion. Get your coil setup and prime your wick. Close off the juice control all the way and vape it a bit until you can tell it's beginning to dry out. Then open the juice control one full turn , you should see bubbles coming streaming out of the juice control. This means your vacuum is working as it stands. If you can adjust airflow , like you implied you can, close it off until it's a fairly tight and have a few vapes. You should still see bubbles coming out , and you should be able to gauge how much juice is going in by how wet it feels and whether its. gurgling. If that amount of airflow is too tight and it floods then repeat the process. Close off the juice control nice and tight, vape it until it starts to seem a little dry and then adjust your airflow so it's a little more open. Eventually you'll find the sweet spot and your wicking issues should go away.

I'll add that between attempts at figuring out your airflow it's not a terrible idea to open the fill holes on the SnP AFTER you close up the juice control. This will let your vacuum go and allow you to reset it.

By Qorax

I use all the Carto-RBAs in the market ~ Killer, Diver v2 and Sophia... and I love them all. My SnP has the Killer embedded in it and it wicks / works fine. I initially ran a Diver (v1) in it ~ but it was a PITA... leaked the whole time - whatever I did. Actually that v1 did leak inside anything, not just the SnP.

The actual Killer705-Septero is a joy to use. Yes, it sucks at building and inserting - b'coz of it's 'bulb' - the bloated waistline - however, it's constructed well (the best out of the three) and performs stupendously vide a Microcoil/Cotton build.

With your SnP (actually any tank system) - we should remember not to fill it to the brim. They'd dry-hit to glory if done so. The ideal level is to fill it 3/4ths - always & everytime. And ensure never, ever to smother the wick. There should be enough 'breathing space' between the wick and the coil while inserting it / building it - to account for the 'swell' which'd eventually occur when 'fed' with juice.

 

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GP SPHEROID TIPS & TRICKS

By Romele

Been using this method since yesterday and it's working great:

Tools required:

1 x Tweezers (for coil)
1 x Nail clippers (for cutting wire and cotton)
1 x Scissors (for cutting the Jewel Filter to size)
1 x Ruler (for measuring the Juwel Filter)
1 x Philips screwdriver or needle nose pliers (Depending on whether you have nuts or the new v3 kit with screws)
1 x Blowtorch or Lighter
1 x Spheroid fork or a pair of needle nose pliers will do
1 x Mandrel or a 2mm thick drill bit
1 x 14 Gauge needle
1 x 0.25 Kanthal
1 x Organic cotton wool
1 x Juwel Filter PolyPad Compact, it's what i use : http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000G04LWM/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Preparation for the GP Spheroid:

Use the Spheroid fork or the end of the needle nose pliers tips to remove base and turn clockwise (it has reverse threading) to remove the base:

Clean all parts in warm water and thoroughly dry and re-assemble the lower base back onto the main base anti-clockwise (it has reverse threading) you should now have this:

Before starting make sure your hands are clean as anything on them like grease etc will be going onto the wire/wick and filler.....you don't want that.

Building the GP Spheroid:

Step 1: Cut a bit of Juwel filter polypad too the size of 2.5cm x 4.5cm, Cut some 0.25 Kanthal at 14cm length

Step 2: Hold the 0.25 Kanthal and torch the coil with your blowtorch or lighter until glowing red, this will make the wire less springy and easier too handle:

Step 3: Wrap the coil around a 2mm mandrel nice and tight (i do around 9 turns, this should give about 1.9 ohms resistance) and then push all coils very close together with your fingers towards the mandrel’s edge so they are nice and snug next to each other and keep holding the legs tight at the same time.

Step 4: Gently pull the coil off the mandrel and at the same time holding the legs of the wire place into the tip of a pair of tweezers (preferably flat tweezers).

Step 5: Once all held in place in the tweezers flame the coil until red hot and hold tight with the tweezers until cool, do this a couple of times....should end up looking like this:

Step 6: Place the 14 gauge Blunt Needle into the centre of the coil and adjust the legs of the wire so that they are facing north and south:

Before step 7: Decide whether you want more throat hit or less throat hit, the higher the coil the more throat hit, the lower the coil between the posts the less throat hit (very marginal though)

Step 7: Place the coil between the posts and wrap the legs around the nuts/screws and tighten up, once all in place make sure the coil is dead in the center and lined up with the air hole, if not reposition it with your tweezers:

Step 8: Get the end of each hanging wire and wiggle them off for a clean snap, place the base onto a device and check the resistance is fine and you can also do some dry burns to burn of any remaining impurities:

Step 9: Now get some cotton wool and pull apart a bit that will be enough for the wick, not too much and not too less....this bit is by judgement so you need to guess right, If you use too much cotton the coil will strangle it and it won't wick fast enough, if you use to little it will wick too fast and you may get leaks, Get the cotton and roll into a tube, not too tight and not too loose, then feed it through you microcoil:

Step 10: Trim the cotton ends, they should be sticking out about 1mm outside the diameter of the base:

Step 11: Take your spheroid bell top and wrap the 2.5cm x 4.5cm Juwel filter polypad around it, not tight and not too loose:

Step 12: Place the spheroid shell around the bell top and screw into place trying to make sure no Juwel filter is on the thread of the bell top:

Step 13: Make some adjustments of the Juwel filter to make sure it is nicely and equally fitted into the spheroid shell and nothing is blocking the center tube:

Step 14: Choose your chosen juice and fill up a syringe (i prefer syringe) and insert the syringe down the side of the Juwel filter right too the bottom and fill up (i get around 2.5 too 3ml of juice).....once you see the top of the Juwel filter full of juice stop filling, if you have over done it get some tissue and soak up the overfill:

Step 15: Get your base and wet the cotton wick with your chosen juice and check to see if all is working fine and to see if there are any hotspots, if all is fine point the cotton legs upwards and screw into the shell making sure the ends are touching the Juwel filter:

Step 16: All done and you can now vape away on one of the best tasting attys:

 

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January 13, Vapourday

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