GP Series by VapourArt - Official Thread for GP Spheroid, GP PAPS, X, GP Piccolo, GP SnP and more - Part 2

[Idaholandho]

So x ring or x AFC ring? Or both?

Maybe an extra Pyrex tank or 2? Firestorm is correct as always as well .

 

[Zbeast08]

I got my new bell this week and will be setting up my new Heron and Paps v3 this weekend for the first time since I received it from last vapourday!! Yes, I have had it quite awhile and just when I was about to set it up, the issue with the bell popped up and I decided to wait it out and set it up when the new bell arrived. Yes, it was painful but I was very disciplined by just looking at it everyday!! Now, I need that extra switch to use with the extra tube I had ordered and topcap and have 2 units!!
One question, I remember someone saying that the "body" of the heron needs to be put on in only one direction for proper fit, what and how is that direction to be sure I have it on correctly?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Akdare]

I got my new bell this week and will be setting up my new Heron and Paps v3 this weekend for the first time since I received it from last vapourday!! Yes, I have had it quite awhile and just when I was about to set it up, the issue with the bell popped up and I decided to wait it out and set it up when the new bell arrived. Yes, it was painful but I was very disciplined by just looking at it everyday!! Now, I need that extra switch to use with the extra tube I had ordered and topcap and have 2 units!!
One question, I remember someone saying that the "body" of the heron needs to be put on in only one direction for proper fit, what and how is that direction to be sure I have it on correctly?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

If it doesn't go together, turn it over...

 

[Masonite]

If it doesn't go together, turn it over...

Yup, and make sure it's the right way around before you fill with juice

 

[cliffy15]

btw, for the locals that may be reading this, Sephora Ala Moana didn't have the koh gen do cotton pads but the nice lady referred me to Nieman Marcus.

Instead I decided to order it from Sephora online (they were sold out) and the one company selling them on Amazon (at decent price for the box of 60) wouldn't ship it to Hawaii apparently.

I eventually was able to order from dermstore.com with free shipping (and a free cosmetic gift)

 

[chadsmo]

The smaller indent on the tank faces up.

 

[chadsmo]

(and a free cosmetic gift)

I bought yarn online and now I get yarn / knitting magazines in the mail.

 

[bots]

Maybe I missed it in this massive thread but has the v2.5 switch been discontinued? Or are there plans to issue them in a future release?

When we create a new version, we discontinue the previous one, we started this policy 2 years ago, because we constantly strive to improve our products in terms of functionality, materials, safety, etc. Even between batches of the same version, there are changes. The moment the accumulated changes require a redesign of a major part, we proceed to a new version. Some products change quickly, some others not, depending on our ability to improve them further. We try to keep all versions compatible with each other, at least for their main parts, wanting to reduce the upgrade cost for our clients.

Just to be sure - that means, there will be no more 2.5 switch in future, right? I really liked these... The 2.5 tubes will be available?

oh - has been answered already...

JJ! The 2.5 has been replaced by the 3.0 my friend. There will be no more released. You may find them attached to tubes in VapourArt's outlet section someday but, slim.

 

[Idaholandho]

So...it is time and I am really excited about this build!

Tonight it was time for the KGD/Heron mating.

I broke out what I believe to be .5 kanthal ribbon. I am fairly sure it is as it is closest to .30 kanthal wire, which is my go to.
I love ribbon wire on many builds. Tonight I wrapped the ribbon on a 1/16th jig and came up with this micro-coil @ .8 ohms

A test fire sequence for your dancing and dining pleasure

and......BOOOM! I refer to this as the Heron Jet Engine Build!

I cut a piece of KGD along the grain or with the direction of fibers about 30mm twisted the end and threaded through the coil.
Please note that the fiber occasionally has a piece of a cotton seed embeded

The short end I trimmed a bit more and laid it on the base floor. Then I twisted the long end slightly and placed through the cotton cap but not before I drowned the wick in GVC .

This is an incredible vape! Thanks King P

Most of us know the steps following and I will just say, if you are not familiar with ribbon, please take a bit of time and get to know it. It is absolutely fantastic on a Heron build. Take advantage of the .8 Perseas sent it is a very popular guage. .8 I believe is equivalent to .28 Kanthal wire.
Enjoy and thanks for looking.

 

[perseas]

So...it is time and I am really excited about this build!

Tonight it was time for the KGD/Heron mating.

I broke out what I believe to be .5 kanthal ribbon. I am fairly sure it is as it is closest to .30 kanthal wire, which is my go to.
I love ribbon wire on many builds. Tonight I wrapped the ribbon on a 1/16th jig and came up with this micro-coil @ .8 ohms

A test fire sequence for your dancing and dining pleasure

and......BOOOM! I refer to this as the Heron Jet Engine Build!

I cut a piece of KGD along the grain or with the direction of fibers about 30mm twisted the end and threaded through the coil.
Please note that the fiber occasionally has a piece of a cotton seed embeded

The short end I trimmed a bit more and laid it on the base floor. Then I twisted the long end slightly and placed through the cotton cap but not before I drowned the wick in GVC .

This is an incredible vape! Thanks King P

Most of us know the steps following and I will just say, if you are not familiar with ribbon, please take a bit of time and get to know it. It is absolutely fantastic on a Heron build. Take advantage of the .8 Perseas sent it is a very popular guage. .8 I believe is equivalent to .28 Kanthal wire.
Enjoy and thanks for looking.

Thank you so much brother for your new pictorial!!!

 

[throwback8]

Hey all. I had a quick question for all you Paps X owners with the Gpin topcap. For a long while I was using the stock(shorter Gpin) with VTC4's and while they do make connection with no battery rattle, I noticed the pressure only started on the last one and half turns of screwing the tubes together. Therefor the amount of spring pressure pushing against the atty and battery wasn't very great. I started to think about this when I noticed I was experiencing noticeable voltage drop under load(I enjoy my dual coils dense and warm right around .3-.4). This drop was still noticeable after cleaning all contacts, gpin internals, button internals, threads, and such with alcohol and polishing the contacts.

I had a theory that by using the longer gpin supplied by GP, more spring pressure would build(hence better connection with the atty and battery). After installing the longer Gpin the results were immediately apparent. I am ordering a volt meter here soon to confirm the results, but the experience alone is hard to ignore. My vape experience is now still rocking hard even when I swap batteries at 3.6-3.7. The only downside is the additional pressure applied to the threads when screwing the mod together is going to increase wear and tear on the threads. I am now starting to question whether this could be even further improved by removing the spring in the Gpin altogether(a la the top cap prior to the gpin). A video from FieldofVapor states that the conductivity tests .2 better on the old topcap. I would love to see more voltage drop or conductivity test on both topcaps, as I only have the newer 1.5 topcap.

My questions to everyone are, have any of you done any testing with the different Gpins or topcaps? Is it even possible to get a solid style older pin, which needs to be manually adjusted? Which Gpin are you all using with with VTC4's? My opinion on the fantastic Paps X 1.5 remains in tact. It is the most beautifully made piece I have ever had the pleasure of using, with the best threads in the business, immaculate machining, stellar locking mechanic, and a great switch. I just wanted to start some dialog about this as these types of things interest me, and I am always looking to improve performance.

 

[Firestorm]

So x ring or x AFC ring? Or both?

The GP Paps X comes with the polished AFC ring and you can buy a polished and/or brushed X ring separately.

 

[Pathology]

Hey all. I had a quick question for all you Paps X owners with the Gpin topcap. For a long while I was using the stock(shorter Gpin) with VTC4's and while they do make connection with no battery rattle, I noticed the pressure only started on the last one and half turns of screwing the tubes together. Therefor the amount of spring pressure pushing against the atty and battery wasn't very great. I started to think about this when I noticed I was experiencing noticeable voltage drop under load(I enjoy my dual coils dense and warm right around .3-.4). This drop was still noticeable after cleaning all contacts, gpin internals, button internals, threads, and such with alcohol and polishing the contacts.

I had a theory that by using the longer gpin supplied by GP, more spring pressure would build(hence better connection with the atty and battery). After installing the longer Gpin the results were immediately apparent. I am ordering a volt meter here soon to confirm the results, but the experience alone is hard to ignore. My vape experience is now still rocking hard even when I swap batteries at 3.6-3.7. The only downside is the additional pressure applied to the threads when screwing the mod together is going to increase wear and tear on the threads. I am now starting to question whether this could be even further improved by removing the spring in the Gpin altogether(a la the top cap prior to the gpin). A video from FieldofVapor states that the conductivity tests .2 better on the old topcap. I would love to see more voltage drop or conductivity test on both topcaps, as I only have the newer 1.5 topcap.

My questions to everyone are, have any of you done any testing with the different Gpins or topcaps? Is it even possible to get a solid style older pin, which needs to be manually adjusted? Which Gpin are you all using with with VTC4's? My opinion on the fantastic Paps X 1.5 remains in tact. It is the most beautifully made piece I have ever had the pleasure of using, with the best threads in the business, immaculate machining, stellar locking mechanic, and a great switch. I just wanted to start some dialog about this as these types of things interest me, and I am always looking to improve performance.

My first v1.5 top cap, I couldn't use the shorter pin without battery rattle. I had to use the long one. But it turned out that that was a faulty cap anyway because the threads were rough and it would get stuck to my X.

My second top cap that Perseas/Blake were kind enough to send me as a replacement, I was surprised to find that both pins would work! I use the shorter pin to keep wear to a minimum on the threads. I do not notice a difference using either pin at 1.0ohm, 1.2ohm, 0.7ohm, or 0.34. I just tested with all of my atties. I'm interested to see your results though




..Sent from the vape lair..

 

[pmuniz10920]

The GP Paps X comes with the polished AFC ring and you can buy a polished and/or brushed X ring separately.

Thanks for the clarification!

 

[perseas]

Hey all. I had a quick question for all you Paps X owners with the Gpin topcap. For a long while I was using the stock(shorter Gpin) with VTC4's and while they do make connection with no battery rattle, I noticed the pressure only started on the last one and half turns of screwing the tubes together. Therefor the amount of spring pressure pushing against the atty and battery wasn't very great. I started to think about this when I noticed I was experiencing noticeable voltage drop under load(I enjoy my dual coils dense and warm right around .3-.4). This drop was still noticeable after cleaning all contacts, gpin internals, button internals, threads, and such with alcohol and polishing the contacts.

Hello buddy!

Many batteries differ in length despite their specs. Some 18650 batteries are shorter, other longer than 65 mm and that will affect the applied pressure and consequently their conductivity. Although I don't recommend 0,3 Ω resistance coils with our mods, I suppose you know what you are doing there and the vapour is not exactly warm, it is rather hot. Be careful

I had a theory that by using the longer gpin supplied by GP, more spring pressure would build(hence better connection with the atty and battery). After installing the longer Gpin the results were immediately apparent. I am ordering a volt meter here soon to confirm the results, but the experience alone is hard to ignore. My vape experience is now still rocking hard even when I swap batteries at 3.6-3.7. The only downside is the additional pressure applied to the threads when screwing the mod together is going to increase wear and tear on the threads. I am now starting to question whether this could be even further improved by removing the spring in the Gpin altogether(a la the top cap prior to the gpin). A video from FieldofVapor states that the conductivity tests .2 better on the old topcap. I would love to see more voltage drop or conductivity test on both topcaps, as I only have the newer 1.5 topcap.

Here is another test:

Source: http://www.calivapers.com/showthread.php?5222-Mod-Voltage-Test-Setup

Your concern about wearing of the threads would be justified, if we were using thinner threads and lower SS grade. However, this is difficult to happen in a 23 mm mod made from 316 EU certified SS with M21x1 threading, when the applied pressure is only 5 kg.

My questions to everyone are, have any of you done any testing with the different Gpins or topcaps? Is it even possible to get a solid style older pin, which needs to be manually adjusted? Which Gpin are you all using with with VTC4's? My opinion on the fantastic Paps X 1.5 remains in tact. It is the most beautifully made piece I have ever had the pleasure of using, with the best threads in the business, immaculate machining, stellar locking mechanic, and a great switch. I just wanted to start some dialog about this as these types of things interest me, and I am always looking to improve performance.

Thank you very much for your kind words!

 

[cos]

Chadsmo thank you for letting me in on the Facebook page group my friend. I do not know how to move around much as i just got into facebook but wanted to give you a Big Thanks here on the forum just to let you know. I will eventually c u there. lolol
my name there is Billy G. Happy Vaping now to cut the lawn and clean the pool before the boss starts yelling. oh yeh the vaping tool of choice this weekend is the Paps V2.5 18350 with Heron on top 26 awg 3 wraps i have no idea of the ohm as my multimeter died few days ago but i would say bout .65 or so cause it hits hard. Have a great vaping weekend everyone. wifey keeps me busy today and i must listen or i get no vaping money to buy Paps stuff so i will listen and make her happy. lol

 

[throwback8]

Hello buddy!

Many batteries differ in length despite their specs. Some 18650 batteries are shorter, other longer than 65 mm and that will affect the applied pressure and consequently their conductivity. Although I don't recommend 0,3 Ω resistance coils with our mods, I suppose you know what you are doing there and the vapour is not exactly warm, it is rather hot. Be careful



Here is another test:

Source: Mod Voltage Test Setup

Your concern about wearing of the threads would be justified, if we were using thinner threads and lower SS grade. However, this is difficult to happen in a 23 mm mod made from 316 EU certified SS with M21x1 threading, when the applied pressure is only 5 kg.



Thank you very much for your kind words!

Indeed another reason GP is such a fantastic company. Perseas actually interacts with people who purchase GP products and is active in the community. Thanks so much for your responses Perseas, I can't wait to pickup a V3. I completely understand not suggesting sub ohming on your mods. With that said, I have educated myself on ohms law, check all builds on an ohms meter before firing, and always make sure I know how many amps I am drawing with a particular build. In addition I use authentic Sony VTC4's which are capable of continuously discharging 30amps, well above the amps being drawn. In regards to the temperature of a .3-.4 ohm build, it really comes down to proper airflow. I run my Quasar RDA with the airflow wide open, which keeps it from being too hot of a vape. Vape on all!

 

[chadsmo]

Chadsmo thank you for letting me in on the Facebook page group my friend. I do not know how to move around much as i just got into facebook but wanted to give you a Big Thanks here on the forum just to let you know. I will eventually c u there. lolol

Not a problem man. Everyone is welcome.

 

[yankeebobo]

Jo: "Something is wrong with my paps. It's not firing right"
Me: "let me see it"
10 minutes later
Me: "here. Try now"
Jo: "WOW. What did you do?"
Me: "thorough cleaning prayer"

 

[perseas]

Indeed another reason GP is such a fantastic company. Perseas actually interacts with people who purchase GP products and is active in the community. Thanks so much for your responses Perseas, I can't wait to pickup a V3. I completely understand not suggesting sub ohming on your mods. With that said, I have educated myself on ohms law, check all builds on an ohms meter before firing, and always make sure I know how many amps I am drawing with a particular build. In addition I use authentic Sony VTC4's which are capable of continuously discharging 30amps, well above the amps being drawn. In regards to the temperature of a .3-.4 ohm build, it really comes down to proper airflow. I run my Quasar RDA with the airflow wide open, which keeps it from being too hot of a vape. Vape on all!

You're right, the vapour's temperature is much air flow dependant and from the moment you're an experienced vaper, happy vaping

Thanks again for your support!