GP Series by VapourArt - Official Thread for GP Spheroid, GP PAPS, X, GP Piccolo, GP SnP and more - Part 3

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perseas

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Perseas, can you explain the mixed finish spheroid please? I'm assuming it's a mix of polished & brushed, but which part is which? Or can we choose?

Also, will it ever be back in the BB finish? I reeeaaaaally want a BB one to live on my piccolo [emoji56]

Polished ends and brushed tube, like the photo below.

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I'd like to know this as well. I'm hoping it looks like this one:

pic_6056.jpg

It will come exactly with this finish.

Thank you Perseas! Finally a modder that has found Nyogel. I've been recommending that since I started vaping only to be ridiculed with Noalox comments :p

The vaping industry can learn a bit from the other "tube that holds batteries" industry. Flashlight makers know their metal tubes pretty damn well and they should since they've been doing it for decades.

Modded flashlights=mods
I used Nyogel 759G in the past, but it is discontinued now and replaced by an improved version, Nyogel 760G

Gozer is here!

tyrubu8u.jpg


TiX#15 checking in! No full pics yet as I'm already having a binding issue with one of the sections and I'm literally trying to work it out ...

When the threading is new, no matter how well is cleansed or lubed, work on it back and forth under tap water to remove the tiny particles that the developing friction releases between the threads. Do it for a while, and the threading will take its final shape. Then dry it and apply a very light coat of lubricant that can barely be seen or leave it clean without anything applied.
 

kdragn

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Perseas offered, even insisted, to help me with my binding issue. But I wanted to start using it right away, so I put one end in a vise and twisted the other end with soft jaw pliers. I cushioned the end in the vise with a bunch of rubber glove and those pieces of MDF with semicircular channels routed out of them that come with anything you buy from mmv. Anybody with a poldi knows what I'm talking about. I couldn't get the proper leverage with two pliers, but the vise made it pretty easy.

Anyways, Ti X #055 is in great shape now. My SS X is #0066, which is pretty cool.
 
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yankeebobo

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Perseas offered, even insisted, to help me with my binding issue. But I wanted to start using it right away, so I put one end in a vise and twisted the other end with soft jaw pliers. I cushioned the end in the vise with a bunch of rubber glove and those pieces of MDF with semicircular channels routed out of them that come with anything you buy from mmv. Anybody with a poldi knows what I'm talking about. I couldn't get the proper leverage with two pliers, but the vise made it pretty easy.

Anyways, Ti X #055 is in great shape now. My SS X is #0066, which is pretty cool.

Oh my god. I just fell down reading about vice and jaws. Hang on. Need to stand slowly.

But yeah. That cork wood?
 

cliffy15

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It will come exactly with this finish.



Modded flashlights=mods
I used Nyogel 759G in the past, but it is discontinued now and replaced by an improved version, Nyogel 760G



When the threading is new, no matter how well is cleansed or lubed, work on it back and forth under tap water to remove the tiny particles that the developing friction releases between the threads. Do it for a while, and the threading will take its final shape. Then dry it and apply a very light coat of lubricant that can barely be seen or leave it clean without anything applied.

Thanks, P! I was actually doing that before I tried getting it all together and playing with it. Even while doing that I managed to get the main tube stuck to the large tube. I've been working it but I'm making minimal progress so far. Guess I'm going to read some manuals so I can keep some hands free while I'm at work getting Gozer apart again. Heh!
 

perseas

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Thanks, P! I was actually doing that before I tried getting it all together and playing with it. Even while doing that I managed to get the main tube stuck to the large tube. I've been working it but I'm making minimal progress so far. Guess I'm going to read some manuals so I can keep some hands free while I'm at work getting Gozer apart again. Heh!

You really don't need to read anything more. Titanium has a high coefficient of friction and a new threading develops friction, this create tiny titanium filaments inside the threading, don't put any lubricant in that stage, only water to take away the particles and work on them till they come apart. Clean them with water again and check. After 2-3 times, the threads shape won't create such friction and you'll have no fear of sticking again. We could avoid this "threading break process" if we used non calibrated threading with low tolerance, but it wouldn't be an X.
 

cliffy15

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You really don't need to read anything more. Titanium has a high coefficient of friction and a new threading develops friction, this create tiny titanium filaments inside the threading, don't put any lubricant in that stage, only water to take away the particles and work on them till they come apart. Clean them with water again and check. After 2-3 times, the threads shape won't create such friction and you'll have no fear of sticking again. We could avoid this "threading break process" if we used non calibrated threading with low tolerance, but it wouldn't be an X.

Woops... sorry for the misunderstanding. What I meant was that I'm going to read software manuals, at work, so I can keep my hands generally free to work out the process =)

I've backed out the section out about 1mm so far... a bit more to go!
 

kdragn

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Oh my god. I just fell down reading about vice and jaws. Hang on. Need to stand slowly.

But yeah. That cork wood?

Haha, yeah, not really cork wood, but similar. It's not spongy, but it's made of particles. The rubber glove I wrapped around a bunch of times, so there wasn't a lot of pressure on the tube. The wood thingies made sure I wasn't putting too much lateral pressure on the tubes and potentially deforming them. No harm done to the finish. And everything is working great now. I cleaned it really well after getting the pieces apart and no more issues.
 

Spydro

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Hey guys! Just wanted to take a quick minute to say hi as I rush to board another plane. I was supposed to be heading back home to Boston today from Raleigh/Durham, but the boss called me at the last minute and told me he needs me in Biloxi, Mississippi to fix a machine!! So I just took a short flight to Charlotte (what a Cluster this airport is!! Unbelievably crowded!!), then onto Gulfport/Biloxi MS......I will then work in Mississippi tomorrow all day and fly back home to Boston on Saturday morning.....ahh the life of a field service engineer!! :)

Reminds me of the Heidelberg days.
 

yankeebobo

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Haha, yeah, not really cork wood, but similar. It's not spongy, but it's made of particles. The rubber glove I wrapped around a bunch of times, so there wasn't a lot of pressure on the tube. The wood thingies made sure I wasn't putting too much lateral pressure on the tubes and potentially deforming them. No harm done to the finish. And everything is working great now. I cleaned it really well after getting the pieces apart and no more issues.

True. Almost like highly compressed particle. But yeah. Still gave me the willies thinking vice to mod. :lol:
 

mssam

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You're picture convinced me that I should get the X Lux Converter.

Anyone know if Domo be selling the X Lux Converter?

Thx sparc! For some reason i think i did get one or two from Domo, but i cant remember for sure. I dont see the X Lux converter, but Blake may have them, so you may want to shoot him an inquiry email. I know the last one(s) i got from Vapourart. They show they're out of stock there, but maybe they'll show up tomorrow... :unsure:

On a different note, i thought the X's have three numbers for a serial, but do some of them have four?
 

perseas

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Just a thought, would a Water Pik work well for cleaning the threads?

The threads are clean in the first place and dry like a rock, so the first times you use it, a friction is developing, but then lessens.

If you mean to use it instead of putting the mod under the tap while you're working the threads, I think it may work, the directional hose helps targeting the threading while the titanium dust is very light and non sticky, if the threads haven't been lubricated.
 
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perseas

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Thx sparc! For some reason i think i did get one or two from Domo, but i cant remember for sure. I dont see the X Lux converter, but Blake may have them, so you may want to shoot him an inquiry email. I know the last one(s) i got from Vapourart. They show they're out of stock there, but maybe they'll show up tomorrow... :unsure:

On a different note, i thought the X's have three numbers for a serial, but do some of them have four?

The X Lux and Ti edition has 3 digits, the SS one has 4. The X lux converter will be in stock tomorrow.
 

perseas

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Ok so I don't have any Vaseline on me but playing with my nut and twisting my tube under water seems to have my SSX back in action :D

Speaking literally, you don't need any Vaseline after that procedure. I have used occasionally Vaseline and Nyogel, but I prefer to keep my TiX without any lubricant.
 
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