GP Series by VapourArt - Official Thread for GP Spheroid

[perseas]

Come on man, you know me....my all time most favoritest GP, my beloved Lux v2.5
Lux2.5/Sphero is the ultimate setup for me.

I did see your post above about the work arounds for 350 mode on the X, but they aren't something I really feel the need to do. Every tool has a purpose and to me the tool for 350 mode isn't an X.
I still can't find any flaws with the X and don't see this as a flaw personally. Please don't take any of my post above as criticism. It most certainly wasn't.
I simply meant I tried X in 350 mode using the smaller pin and got the same gap. This doesn't bother me at all because if I'm going to use it in 350 mode I'm going to be using one of my 2.5's.
The heft of the X to me doesn't seem fitting for 350. If I'm going 350 mode then I'm going for a small lightweight stealthy setup which says Paps v2.5 or 3.0...and you know I'm obsessed with the 2.5

No offence, I am trying to be helpful, knowing that this thread will be read in the future by other people, who may not be aware of what we're talking about. If I leave posts unanswered, I risk to create the impression that something is wrong. Impressions are stronger than facts, because they pair with imagination and hype. So I will repost again my previous answer, not for you, but for the others:

First thing first: this is not a limitation of the X and Spheroid combination, but 2 specific solutions occurred due to the functional need of the X to operate in 18350, 18500, 18650, 18800 mode with varied length batteries even at the same mode, depending on the brand and varied length kick v1, kick v2 and at the same time having enough pressure towards the battery without being telescopic.

Producing a bunch of different pins isn't a sleek solution. The second pin is already too much in my opinion. In an ideal world the differences among all battery modes would be just 15 mm for all the brands, the kick the same and all batteries would have the length their name suggests. But WYSIWYG doesn't apply here, too many variables in a equation require rather a limited approach, such as using a purple Efest in 18350 mode, or an unorthodox solution by trimming the spare spring.

Therefore, you can use a 18350 purple Efest flat top battery or trim a bit the spare spring with common combination pliers.

 

[Todai]

To be fair, I can confirm now that cutting down a spare GPin spring does work! Also ordered flat top batteries so will check that solution also. But I went ahead and ordered a Paps 350 tube/switch/cap so that is most likely what I'll use. I love small mods and I cannot lie!

Thanks to P and everyone for all the suggestions!

I received my purple Efest flat tops today, and can confirm they work perfectly.

So, just as Perseas explains here, and on the VA site, either trimming a spare GPin spring - or - flat top batteries are indeed both perfect solutions to any gap that may occur when using the Paps X in 18350 mode with the GPin/510 cap.

Next time I will learn to read the production description pages more thoroughly.

 

[jrs99]

No offence, I am trying to be helpful, knowing that this thread will be read in the future by other people, who may not be aware of what we're talking about. If I leave posts unanswered, I risk to create the impression that something is wrong. Impressions are stronger than facts, because they pair with imagination and hype. So I will repost again my previous answer, not for you, but for the others:

Very true about impressions. I never meant to say anything was wrong or flawed. My apologies if it came out that way.

 

[mssam]

yeah, so, I was having a little trouble getting my spheroid set up. I don't know where to start exactly, but for one thing I had too much fluff in the tank. I screwed the base on and twisted up the fluff with the wick i was using, resistance wasn't where I wanted it, eliquid was flying into my mouth - it was a mess! So after screwing with the thing for an hour or so, I put it aside yesterday evening and went to sleep. During my sleep the idea of cutting the fluff to the end of the chimney in the bell section came to me. Strange i know, but when a problem bothers me and I go to sleep, solutions come to me - whatever. So, I do just that this evening. Combine that with a perfect 1.8 ohm build and my gvc is being tested at the recommended set up. I don't know if it really makes a difference because it seems close to dripping at .45, but whatever.

Another thing that was infuriating me was I couldn't get the bell section on the tank. I was pounding on this thing and it wouldn't go in. I put vaseline on it; still wouldn't go in. Took it all apart again and noticed I was trying to put the bell section on the threaded end of the tube. Flipped the tube and the bell section glided on, but when I went to screw the base on, I had to use force. "D*mn it!" I thought to myself. I screwed up the threads and now I have to by another spheroid. However, having delt with threading before, I thought maybe if I could get the base to straighten out the threads (if they were damaged) it would all be good. As fate would have it, that's what happened! The gods favor me!!!

Anyway, I just thought I would add some pics of how things look on my set up. Who knows, it may be helpful for someone. The lighting isn't that great for the photos and I don't have a SS Paps yet, so I have to use my alubronze v3 or X LUX for a photo op lol...oh well, maybe I will get lucky and me able to purchase a Ti

 

[jpcwon]

yeah, so, I was having a little trouble getting my spheroid set up. I don't know where to start exactly, but for one thing I had too much fluff in the tank. I screwed the base on and twisted up the fluff with the wick i was using, resistance wasn't where I wanted it, eliquid was flying into my mouth - it was a mess! So after screwing with the thing for an hour or so, I put it aside yesterday evening and went to sleep. During my sleep the idea of cutting the fluff to the end of the chimney in the bell section came to me. Strange i know, but when a problem bothers me and I go to sleep, solutions come to me - whatever. So, I do just that this evening. Combine that with a perfect 1.8 ohm build and my gvc is being tested at the recommended set up. I don't know if it really makes a difference because it seems close to dripping at .45, but whatever.

Another thing that was infuriating me was I couldn't get the bell section on the tank. I was pounding on this thing and it wouldn't go in. I put vaseline on it; still wouldn't go in. Took it all apart again and noticed I was trying to put the bell section on the threaded end of the tube. Flipped the tube and the bell section glided on, but when I went to screw the base on, I had to use force. "D*mn it!" I thought to myself. I screwed up the threads and now I have to by another spheroid. However, having delt with threading before, I thought maybe if I could get the base to straighten out the threads (if they were damaged) it would all be good. As fate would have it, that's what happened! The gods favor me!!!

Anyway, I just thought I would add some pics of how things look on my set up. Who knows, it may be helpful for someone. The lighting isn't that great for the photos and I don't have a SS Paps yet, so I have to use my alubronze v3 or X LUX for a photo op lol...oh well, maybe I will get lucky and me able to purchase a Ti

Nice!!

Yeah I noticed that for me, the toughest part of building on a Spheroid isn't the build itself, but instead it's trying to figure out how much fluff to use. I am now using a 2 - 2.5" long piece and it seems to be perfect for me. For a while I was using WAAY too much fluff, and it was causing one of 2 things; either flooding (because it was too tight so it wouldn't absorb the juice properly), or the fluff would not release the juice that was absorbed....

The main thing is that the fluff is not compressed, and is touching all of the inside walls of the tank.....

 

[yankeebobo]

I would also add that cutting the wick shorter will prevent the twisting. You just want it to reach the fluff. Not get all twisted.
Vapor will be weak. Juice will spit from the twisted wick.

Red marks.

About the edge of the base.

 

[perseas]

Very true about impressions. I never meant to say anything was wrong or flawed. My apologies if it came out that way.

You didn't say anything wrong indeed, but I had to respond to keep the flow of the conversation related with what was discussed 3 pages earlier, there is no need to apologise my friend

 

[pingpongcomputer]

Just bought a Spheroid from domo yesterday, anyone know if it will sit flush on a precise plus slant cap?

 

[kscoggins]

It should fit flush, but you may have problems with airflow if you have the solid top cap.

 

[pingpongcomputer]

I have the slotted slant cap for the 18650 version, think that'll work?

 

[Todai]

As long as your top cap provides air to the Spheroid's 510 connection, you're good.

 

[pingpongcomputer]

cool thanks

 

[Chelonian]

By the way, I use the Spheroid with Dave's products as well. I see lots of people having problems getting the atty to sit flush. If you have that problem, PM me

 

[pingpongcomputer]

I'll find out today, hopefully the adjustable 510 on the spheroid will help

 

[Chelonian]

I am in the 5th day of trying my Spheroid with different mesh coils - and I found Quorax's thread about it.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...s/580666-spheroid-ss-mesh-wick-pictorial.html

I heartily second his opinion- I can't recommend SS mesh in the Spheroid enough.

My current setup - using 400 wrapped around 26 AWG, straight wick with a 26AWG .85 coil around a 3/32nd bit.


I have tried a setup similar to Quorax's, but personally I found that placing the coil above the posts, therefore closer to the fluff, works better with all types of wicks.

The second difference is that I use a straight wick, cut to the width of the Spheroid's interior.

The way his tutorial worked as well, I just find that the straight wick with the shorter length allowed me to vape more of the juice out of the fluff before refilling. His way may very well work better than mine for other folks

I already thought that the Spheroid gave me much better flavor than any of my Kayfun style attys..more in line with gennies.

So if any of you guys like ss mesh, and were wondering about it, go for it! It does nothing but improve an already outstanding atomizer.

 

[pingpongcomputer]

not quite flush, but not too bad, a little bit of wiggle.

 

[jpcwon]

^^^Sweet! Looks good man!

 

[dmska]

not quite flush, but not too bad, a little bit of wiggle.

That looks really good. I think the taper @ the top makes it blend together nicely.

 

[Chelonian]

Looks great!
The small gap can be eliminated by changing the rubber grommets supplied with the mod.
They are of varying thicknesses. Use a slightly thinner one so that the battery sits a little lower, then you can drop the center pin.
On my Plus, I actually took out the center pin and delrin insulator from the flat top cap and screwed the spheroid's pin directly to the aw button top battery

 

[pingpongcomputer]

Tried a quick search on adjusting the center pin, no luck. Any tips? Mine seems pretty well stuck where it is. It does vape real well though and thanks for all the likes