GP Series by VapourArt - Official Thread for GP Spheroid

[perseas]

Thank you for the answer Perseas. I was not trying to complain, please forgive me, I am only to figure out why this only seems to be an issue in 18350 mode. I have around 10-12 batteries of each size and only have this issue when trying to use the 18350 batteries, but they are all AW IMRs.

I will order some flat-top Efests to resolve this. I searched the various VA sub-forums and have seen this mentioned several times before and it seems the answer is always to have the user modify the GPin spring, but buying flat tops just seems easier to me.

Thanks again, friend.

P.S. yankee - with the builds I use, the 18350s are more than adequate to handle the amp load. I just am starting to prefer the smaller size, even if that means swapping batteries more often.

I did my best to give a thorough explanation, for the sake of the future readers of this thread, it wasn't addressed only to you, so no need to apologise, I didn't feel insulted You asked why is that happening, proposing some solutions and I answered to each one of them in a technical manner, no offence! Similar explanations are mentioned in the product's page as well.

 

[mssam]

Is there a chance that it's a v2? If so, it will be threaded and need to be screwed off. Just a thought.

I'm fairly certain it is a v3 because i just ordered it recently and it looks like the current photo on the site, but the bell doesn't screw off. It has an o-ring to fasten it to the tank. Holds pretty well too. I did get it to separated from the tank with a sharpie. Just had to use a little force. I'll try a little vaseline on the o-ring like suggested.

 

[Chelonian]

Todai

I have fixed problems like you have mentioned in the past with rubber grommets found in the plumbing section of the hardware store.

Take your mod to the store, and keep trying different round ring type grommet as would be found in the end of a garden hose.

they come in different thicknesses.

Put them in the tube, towards the switch. As long as you don't go too thick on the grommet, it will give you space you need to make up the difference.

 

[SOHCking]

Todai

I have fixed problems like you have mentioned in the past with rubber grommets found in the plumbing section of the hardware store.

Take your mod to the store, and keep trying different round ring type grommet as would be found in the end of a garden hose.

they come in different thicknesses.

Put them in the tube, towards the switch. As long as you don't go too thick on the grommet, it will give you space you need to make up the difference.

I would just make sure the grommets/o-rings you get are food grade to be on the safe side.

 

[Todai]

Thanks guys, but flat top batteries should do the trick. Just ordered some purple Efests from RTD. Will let you know how it works out once they get here.

Cheers!

 

[Idaholandho]

I'm fairly certain it is a v3 because i just ordered it recently and it looks like the current photo on the site, but the bell doesn't screw off. It has an o-ring to fasten it to the tank. Holds pretty well too. I did get it to separated from the tank with a sharpie. Just had to use a little force. I'll try a little vaseline on the o-ring like suggested.

As my man Lman said, the prior versions were threaded. The oring upgrade is a very welcome change for many as it eliminates the chance of cross threading, thread damage, fluff caught in threads and faster maintenance.
GP nailed the tolerance perfectly as always. There is nothing worse than a loose connection on mods due to a loose fit.
Personally, I would remove the oring and with Vaseline just condition it between many fingers then with a dry cotton towel roll it around so the oring looks dry but shines. That's plenty. I do all my orings about every 2-3 months for maint and I've never had to replace one in anything I own.

 

[Idaholandho]

Thanks guys, but flat top batteries should do the trick. Just ordered some purple Efests from RTD. Will let you know how it works out once they get here.

Cheers!

Hey buddy! As P mentioned, isn't it easier to snip an extra GPin spring? Or another idea in the future is just to sand an extra GPin. It just takes a few minutes being brass, then you do not need the crapfest batteries or grommets.
Hope you're having a great weekend.

 

[Todai]

Thanks, bud. Got lots of spings here to experiment with, so I'll try that too. By the way, would the telescopic post v2.6 work for this situation also? Only reason I ask is that Blake has them on sale for $5, lol.

 

[perseas]

Thanks, bud. Got lots of spings here to experiment with, so I'll try that too. By the way, would the telescopic post v2.6 work for this situation also? Only reason I ask is that Blake has them on sale for $5, lol.

Please don't experiment with springs other than the intended ones for safety reasons. The telescopic post fits to GP PAPS X Top Cap v1 and GP PAPS Top Cap v1, v2, v2.1 and v2.5.

 

[Todai]

I meant I have lots of extra GPin springs here to experiment on.

 

[qorax]

I Meshed my Spheroid

Full setup pictures here: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...roid-ss-mesh-wick-pictorial.html#post13612180

 

[jrs99]

Maybe I should just get a 18350 Paps tube, v3 switch, and v3 cap and stop worrying about it, eh?

I tried the X in 350 mode too and got the same results. To me the X just seems like it was made for the bigger batts.
For 350 mode gimme a 2.5 every time

 

[Todai]

I tried the X in 350 mode too and got the same results. To me the X just seems like it was made for the bigger batts.
For 350 mode gimme a 2.5 every time

To be fair, I can confirm now that cutting down a spare GPin spring does work! Also ordered flat top batteries so will check that solution also. But I went ahead and ordered a Paps 350 tube/switch/cap so that is most likely what I'll use. I love small mods and I cannot lie!

Thanks to P and everyone for all the suggestions!

 

[perseas]

I tried the X in 350 mode too and got the same results. To me the X just seems like it was made for the bigger batts.
For 350 mode gimme a 2.5 every time

Can you please elaborate further, what is 2.5? I described a few posts above about the 18350 mode in X, if you are referring to that and it is mentioned in the product's description as well.

 

[Todai]

Can you please elaborate further, what is 2.5?

I think he means his Paps 2.5 350 tube.

 

[perseas]

I think he means his Paps 2.5 350 tube.

Thank you mate, I still cannot understand what he means.

 

[mssam]

I was looking at a site that had a picture of what I think was a 2.5, but it was classified as 18500 ss v3. Is the 2.5 still being sold?

 

[Todai]

No, but Blake still has the pictures of the 2.5 up on his site under the v3 product page.

 

[perseas]

No, but Blake still has the pictures of the 2.5 up on his site under the v3 product page.

I told him to update them a long ago, I hope he will do it soon

 

[jrs99]

Can you please elaborate further, what is 2.5? I described a few posts above about the 18350 mode in X, if you are referring to that and it is mentioned in the product's description as well.

Come on man, you know me....my all time most favoritest GP, my beloved Lux v2.5
Lux2.5/Sphero is the ultimate setup for me.

I did see your post above about the work arounds for 350 mode on the X, but they aren't something I really feel the need to do. Every tool has a purpose and to me the tool for 350 mode isn't an X.
I still can't find any flaws with the X and don't see this as a flaw personally. Please don't take any of my post above as criticism. It most certainly wasn't.
I simply meant I tried X in 350 mode using the smaller pin and got the same gap. This doesn't bother me at all because if I'm going to use it in 350 mode I'm going to be using one of my 2.5's.
The heft of the X to me doesn't seem fitting for 350. If I'm going 350 mode then I'm going for a small lightweight stealthy setup which says Paps v2.5 or 3.0...and you know I'm obsessed with the 2.5