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I have a few of these for removing stubborn top caps. Rather f-up a $2 atty stand than a mod’s 510 plate. They make for great build and display stands as well.
https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10025542/5657602-authentic-clrane-aluminum-stand-for-510-thread
yeah exactly, I never wanted to pull too hard on it while it was on the mod out of fear of just pulling the entire RDA off the mod and ruining the connection. I had to take my ceramic tweezers and use the end of it in between the coils to push the deck out of the topcap to separate on multiple occasions it was really annoying. I am asking because that doesn't appear to be an option with these RDAs, so need a different solution.
Price is always subjective, but to me 70 Euros for an RDA is just slightly below average price so I took that as nothing more than a generic example. My Asgard Mini RDA with the separately sold ultem set cost me about the same price in total. Each one of my Terk V2 RDAs also cost me 70 Euros, and, I own 4 of them. My 24mm OG black Goon was actually 90 Euros at the time when I got it in February 2017. (I don't mean to be crass so I won't mention how many 2-post Kennedy 25 RDAs I own or how much I paid for those, and how many other fairly expensive RDAs I own, etc..)
That said, there are several cheaper RDAs to choose between that I don't feel are like garbage. I liked my Wotofo The Troll RDA 2, and I still like my Dead Rabbit RDA. If you are so strapped for cash that the difference is between vaping and smoking cigs, then get a clone. The reason why I only buy authentics is because I choose to support the people who make it possible for others and me to have access to quality vape hardware. Without designing and prototyping an authentic there can be no clones, and vaping would still suck from here to eternity and back again. After you finish your diploma your career might depend on whether there are enough people out there who still care about giving support to those deserving of it.
I already gave you a perfect example of how you could define good aliens intended to be used on a regulated mod in a regular sized (24mm or 25mm) RDA at around 100 watts. Building these coils requires just 2 different types of wires, 28g Nichrome 80 and 36g Nichrome 80, which is what the "28/36" actually stands for. A cordless drill doesn't have to be super expensive, and, it can serve other purposes other than coil building too, which is why a lot of people already own one before they get into coil building. I can buy a pair of the aforementioned coils for 15 Euros at the local vape shop. Personally, I, consider that a very reasonable price for those who can't or won't make their own, or who are still learning to make their own.
But like I also previously mentioned you could also decide to start with something a little easier, like fused claptons or staggered fused claptons, for example. GrimmGreen on YouTube explained that if he can make fused claptons, everyone can, and, I consider that to be not too far from the truth TBH. You asked for help, you got help, and now you're complaining to me for my trying to hint at the simple fact that maybe, just maybe, your tank being a cheap one is why it fails to satisfy your need? Well played, Sir!
I don't think he was complaining, he's a student for God's sake, get off your high horse and help people who need help and point them in the direction of a lot cheaper tanks than yours
Price is always subjective, but to me 70 Euros for an RDA is just slightly below average price so I took that as nothing more than a generic example. My Asgard Mini RDA with the separately sold ultem set cost me about the same price in total. Each one of my Terk V2 RDAs also cost me 70 Euros, and, I own 4 of them. My 24mm OG black Goon was actually 90 Euros at the time when I got it in February 2017. (I don't mean to be crass so I won't mention how many 2-post Kennedy 25 RDAs I own or how much I paid for those, and how many other fairly expensive RDAs I own, etc..)
That said, there are several cheaper RDAs to choose between that I don't feel are like garbage. I liked my Wotofo The Troll RDA 2, and I still like my Dead Rabbit RDA. If you are so strapped for cash that the difference is between vaping and smoking cigs, then get a clone. The reason why I only buy authentics is because I choose to support the people who make it possible for others and me to have access to quality vape hardware. Without designing and prototyping an authentic there can be no clones, and vaping would still suck from here to eternity and back again. After you finish your diploma your career might depend on whether there are enough people out there who still care about giving support to those deserving of it.
I already gave you a perfect example of how you could define good aliens intended to be used on a regulated mod in a regular sized (24mm or 25mm) RDA at around 100 watts. Building these coils requires just 2 different types of wires, 28g Nichrome 80 and 36g Nichrome 80, which is what the "28/36" actually stands for. A cordless drill doesn't have to be super expensive, and, it can serve other purposes other than coil building too, which is why a lot of people already own one before they get into coil building. I can buy a pair of the aforementioned coils for 15 Euros at the local vape shop. Personally, I, consider that a very reasonable price for those who can't or won't make their own, or who are still learning to make their own.
But like I also previously mentioned you could also decide to start with something a little easier, like fused claptons or staggered fused claptons, for example. GrimmGreen on YouTube explained that if he can make fused claptons, everyone can, and, I consider that to be not too far from the truth TBH. You asked for help, you got help, and now you're complaining to me for my trying to hint at the simple fact that maybe, just maybe, your tank being a cheap one is why it fails to satisfy your need? Well played, Sir!
70 Euros is Expensive for any RDA or RBA full stop
A very decent one can be gotten for half that much, shop around mate
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I mean, I can buy a 20 - 35 euro RDA, but not one for 70. When I am also investing in a new mod and an entirely new type of wire I can't blow my whole budget on one thing. There must be a middle ground between trash and perfection.
Well I had no idea what 28/36 meant, I watched some videos a long time ago on how to build aliens and it looked very difficult, and appeared to require a bunch of different kind of tools. Also require technique. As aforementioned I don't have a lot of money, so I don't want to blow money on meters of wire before I get that technique right and can make some good aliens.
besides it doesn't make any sense for me to go out an buy all these tools I would have no need of them for anything else.
hey man, I didn't mean to sound ungrateful or anything. I am happy that you were willing to help me out, but on the other hand I started this thread because I wanted to get into mesh, not learn how I make my own aliens.
I am a convenience kinda guy, if making top notch coils and vaping on the most top notch rdas and mods is your kind of thing that's awesome, but that's just neither in my budget nor in my interests. Hope you understand.
You just put a really very tiny droplet of juice on each o-ring and twist the cap such that the o-rings will be gleaming with juice, as doing that will be all it takes for it to act like a lube.
But that's mainly the problem as juice is based on sugars so the o rings dry up with the juice cause they are at the base of the mod and get warm therefore causing gluing, there is no quick fix and I've tried the juice on the o rings, didn't work
The "very" in "perform very well" is equally as subjective as the "ridiculously" in "ridiculously expensive". If I were forced to go for mesh, I'd pick the Profile 1.5 RDA, which nobody including any of the naggers in this thread actually even knew existed it would seem.
Of course, everything is subjective, you like your stuff and I like mine, the point is the guy was asking about mesh, nothing elseThe "very" in "perform very well" is equally as subjective as the "ridiculously" in "ridiculously expensive". If I were forced to go for mesh, I'd pick the Profile 1.5 RDA, which nobody including any of the naggers in this thread actually even knew existed it would seem.
If the o-rings getting warm causes gluing, it's either because you need to remove the cap every once in a while and repeat the process of lubing them with just the tiniest amount of juice that will make the o-rings shiny, or you need to get better o-rings, or it's the combination of both.
I've said my bit and now I'm going to browse ridiculously high priced tanks like the Kennedy while vaping my very reasonable priced authentic profile rda and laugh my head off,
Only joking with you, but seriously the tanks you have are very high end and if I could afford a few I'd get them
Only joking with you, but seriously the tanks you have are very high end and if I could afford a few I'd get them
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