Status
Not open for further replies.

PKZap27

Resting In Peace
ECF Veteran
Jan 22, 2011
1,848
675
USA - Ohio
PKZ...your brainstorming the 510 connector is pretty much the same as what I've thought through so far. I'm still trying to work through what it would take to build a custom insert for mine. I've also got plenty of delrin and polycarb lying about i'm thinking seriously about creating a threaded post insert similar to how Imeo does his AFS stuff. Would require an inner and outer brass tube and delrin center all threaded and probably o-ring sealed somehow. I'm also planning to tap and thread my own delrin/poly tank so I don't have to tear up my hands trying to pry it apart. I want a final tank that can be completely threaded for cleaning, inserting, etc. I have a dream..anyway...LOL!

Great ideas, please post any results as I'm very intrested. :pop:
 
Last edited:

Scubabatdan

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 14, 2009
4,749
6,733
62
Dothan, AL
Your welcome, I'm glad I could help. :)

I'm still curious if Dan is using the same vendor.

Yep, McMaster-Carr
I went with the 7/8"OD x 3/4"ID poly, and the 7/8" delrin. That way when I turn the delrin down to 3/4 and add the o-ring grove the OD match up for the poly and delrin. Will be firing up the metal lathe tonight :)
Dan
 

Scubabatdan

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 14, 2009
4,749
6,733
62
Dothan, AL
PKZ...your brainstorming the 510 connector is pretty much the same as what I've thought through so far. I'm still trying to work through what it would take to build a custom insert for mine. I've also got plenty of delrin and polycarb lying about i'm thinking seriously about creating a threaded post insert similar to how Imeo does his AFS stuff. Would require an inner and outer brass tube and delrin center all threaded and probably o-ring sealed somehow. I'm also planning to tap and thread my own delrin/poly tank so I don't have to tear up my hands trying to pry it apart. I want a final tank that can be completely threaded for cleaning, inserting, etc. I have a dream..anyway...LOL!

Cool, I like the way you think.... So thread the ID of the poly and the OD of the delrin and toss a o-ring on the delrin plug inset so it matchs up to the end of the poly. No need for brass then. Or you could use two brass connectors, one set into the poly and one on the ouside dia of the delrin. Hmmmmmm
Dan
 

wolflrv

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Feb 20, 2010
616
2
Tennessee
Would go outer brass tube(internal threads to match 510), internal delrin tube(threaded outer to match 510, inner threads to match internal brass tube), inner brass tube(outer threads only to match inner delrin threads)...I haven't figured out the exact inner/outer measurements yet. I also figure each tube would have to be custom done from rods. But once that's done it would be a breeze to tap air holes through the assembly. Could either be pressed into the delrin cap or I even considered threading the main outer brass tube and inner delrin cap to match so that you could completely disassemble and clean all parts. I planned to indent the top side of the bottom delrin cap to incorporate space for an o-ring to provide extra seal for the tank. It would definitely be a custom setup, unless someone had the facilities to go into production making them.

I want to work on it, but have been house-bound due to serious dental issues the past couple of months. My shop is beggin' me to get back out there...but soon! PS..I have no lathe..but do have routers, drill presses, tap/dies and lots of finer jewelry sized tools to work with...so I'm definitely not gonna be able to mass-produce anything! LOL!
 

Scubabatdan

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 14, 2009
4,749
6,733
62
Dothan, AL
Would go outer brass tube(internal threads to match 510), internal delrin tube(threaded outer to match 510, inner threads to match internal brass tube), inner brass tube(outer threads only to match inner delrin threads)...I haven't figured out the exact inner/outer measurements yet. I also figure each tube would have to be custom done from rods. But once that's done it would be a breeze to tap air holes through the assembly. Could either be pressed into the delrin cap or I even considered threading the main outer brass tube and inner delrin cap to match so that you could completely disassemble and clean all parts. I planned to indent the top side of the bottom delrin cap to incorporate space for an o-ring to provide extra seal for the tank. It would definitely be a custom setup, unless someone had the facilities to go into production making them.

I want to work on it, but have been house-bound due to serious dental issues the past couple of months. My shop is beggin' me to get back out there...but soon! PS..I have no lathe..but do have routers, drill presses, tap/dies and lots of finer jewelry sized tools to work with...so I'm definitely not gonna be able to mass-produce anything! LOL!

Well here is my idea, press fit the 510 extension into the delrin caps and either press it static or coated with epoxy (permanent)
And either option 1 go with o-rings, or option 2 threaded with the o-ring inset on the mating surface of the cap. By tapering the to hole in the cap you should be able to get the CE2 in and out with ease. Well what do ya think. Option 1 will be the easiest.
Dan
 

Attachments

  • Caps.jpg
    Caps.jpg
    11.3 KB · Views: 48
Last edited:

PKZap27

Resting In Peace
ECF Veteran
Jan 22, 2011
1,848
675
USA - Ohio
Dan,

My 2 cents:

Lookin' good Dan, either option would be awesome.

Option 1

Pros - Less labor to produce.

Cons - Harder to seperate to service, meaning it is a little bit harder trying to get the caps off. Greater chance of tank seperating accidently.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Option 2

Pros - Easier to service. No worries that the tank will slip apart picking it up by tank on a heavier PV or in pocket/purse. Easier to line up the top with the CE2 when assembling, easier to make adjustments to the CE2 while screwing it on or before it seats on the rubber cap for ceramic cup.

Cons - More labor to produce. have to clean out threads but no biggie. maybe thread wear, but doubt it.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

I think pressing the 510 into the delrin in lieu of epoxy would be better just in case the adapter needs replacing.

Option 1 - If you cut a small grove around the inside of the tank tube right where the o-ring would seat, when assembled it would kinda snap into place and hold better, However this would make it a little harder to seperate but it could prevent an accidental seperation. Just throwing an idea out there.

Thanks

PK
 
Last edited:

wolflrv

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Feb 20, 2010
616
2
Tennessee
Dan...Definitely Option 2...that's pretty close to what I had in my head.

I'm still working on the 510 adapter...what I'd posted above had to do with that, not for the tank. I drilled out one of my 510-510 modder's connector with my pin vise, then connected it to a standard 510 atty and then taped over the slots where the atty and adapter connect together, to simulate the seal in the tank. I was able to get some airflow, but not much. I think PKZ is right..the 510-510 would work if it had a couple of holes drilled and the center post slotted to accommodate more airflow. I also think PKZ is right in that the 510-510 connector is a royal pain in the .... to get the center post out to try and slot it...still trying here..LOL!
 

PKZap27

Resting In Peace
ECF Veteran
Jan 22, 2011
1,848
675
USA - Ohio
Dan...Definitely Option 2...that's pretty close to what I had in my head.

I'm still working on the 510 adapter...what I'd posted above had to do with that, not for the tank. I drilled out one of my 510-510 modder's connector with my pin vise, then connected it to a standard 510 atty and then taped over the slots where the atty and adapter connect together, to simulate the seal in the tank. I was able to get some airflow, but not much. I think PKZ is right..the 510-510 would work if it had a couple of holes drilled and the center post slotted to accommodate more airflow. I also think PKZ is right in that the 510-510 connector is a royal pain in the .... to get the center post out to try and slot it...still trying here..LOL!


Try a thin cut off wheel on a dremel and just hit the tip in the center with the edge of the wheel at 90 degrees to cut a small groove across the tip of the center piece. Like if you were trying to slice that center piece in half long ways.

BTW, I'm glad you cleared that up about the 510 adapter and the tank because I was reading that post over and over trying to understand what you meant. LOL :D
 
Last edited:

wolflrv

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Feb 20, 2010
616
2
Tennessee
Well here is my idea, press fit the 510 extension into the delrin caps and either press it static or coated with epoxy (permanent)
And either option 1 go with o-rings, or option 2 threaded with the o-ring inset on the mating surface of the cap. By tapering the to hole in the cap you should be able to get the CE2 in and out with ease. Well what do ya think. Option 1 will be the easiest.
Dan

Dan...rather than tapering the hole for the CE2...recess it so it barely allows the edge of the 510 adapter to sit up in there and allows room around the edge to fit an o-ring. Then you can replace/remove the CE2 easily and tap the o-ring back in place to perfect the seal.
 

PKZap27

Resting In Peace
ECF Veteran
Jan 22, 2011
1,848
675
USA - Ohio
Ok so how about option 3 :p

View attachment 36909

Dan

That is how I pictured it and is what I have drawn out on paper. LOL :D

Well kinda because I still have the o-ring between the CE2 and the adapter because I wonder if there is enough room inside the adapter once you grind down the vents for the CE2 to screw all the way in.

I guess if there is a small gap it would not matter if the o-ring is up high enough

Looks good.
 
Last edited:

wolflrv

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Feb 20, 2010
616
2
Tennessee
Exactly PKZ...I think there will be a slight gap afterwards, which is why I set up the oring like I did. If you've seen or worked with an AFS..it's identical to sealing up the top cap. That way gap doesn't matter.

Dan...you're gonna have a tough time and potentially chew up your oring with it inset like that...better to just have the oring removable and slide it down over it and press it into the indent once the ce2 is mounted on the adapter.

PS: got center post out of 510 connector..now trying to find something small enough to cut slot with, while not chewing off the whole end of it...LOL!
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread