How would you get in there to replace the coil and wick without some kind of grommet to seal the juice inside for a removable cap?
Seriously, I gotta know. Intriguing.
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How would you get in there to replace the coil and wick without some kind of grommet to seal the juice inside for a removable cap?
Seriously, I gotta know. Intriguing.
why are dripping attys all stainless steel but tanks are plastic and glass?
I want/need a stainless steel tank with no silicon inwards grrrrrrr
gonna get frustrated to the point i'm gonna have to make my own lmfao see if I can remember any of my CAD/lathe classes all those years ago
metal tank
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1384100
why need wick? when dripping do you use a wick?
I know i'm still new to all of this but essentially...you are quick heating the liquid to create a vapor to inhale....
so lets take a vivi nova for examplish
the bottom plate of the tank screws into the battery to create a connection that heats the plate to create the vape.
so essentially create a hotplate for the bottom then a heat resistant tank with a screwable/removable middle post that conducts heat throughout the inside of the tank...and a removable cap/mouthpiece to fill the fluid in and the mouthpiece would then house some sort of valve like a sippy cup to let the vape through but no accidental leakage....this is the only part that i'm unsure of, finding something to seal the tank that's not plastic or rubber or silicon that could withstand any type juice...
I know i'm still new to all of this but essentially...you are quick heating the liquid to create a vapor to inhale....
so lets take a vivi nova for examplish
the bottom plate of the tank screws into the battery to create a connection that heats the plate to create the vape.
so essentially create a hotplate for the bottom then a heat resistant tank with a screwable/removable middle post that conducts heat throughout the inside of the tank...and a removable cap/mouthpiece to fill the fluid in and the mouthpiece would then house some sort of valve like a sippy cup to let the vape through but no accidental leakage....this is the only part that i'm unsure of, finding something to seal the tank that's not plastic or rubber or silicon that could withstand any type juice...
Found it: post #8983 from very early in July. Sometimes I wish google *could* index this thread. I've punched it into my recipes so I don't have to go looking for it again: Myrany's Banana Cream Pie - e-Liquid Calculator
I hope that's OK?
I'll have to see if my supplier has the Ripe Banana and Bavarian Cream on my next order. That's a lot more flavouring than I usually use these days. I'm wondering if I should halve the flavourings and see how I go...
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Silicon and rubber are fine with juice, it's acrylic and polycarbonate that melt.
I was trying to following your tank design, but I got lost. When dripping, the liquid is held in the mesh and wick, or if using bridgeless/no wick, you drip a smaller amount much quicker into the reservoir cup, in either case, that's all the liquid you are using at one time. Cartos and tanks hold juice, so that you don't have to add juice so often, but the juice is contained separately from the heating element so needs to have something, like a wick or batting, to bring a small amount of juice in contact with the coil. Without that set up that atty would be flooded.
The only system I know of the bypasses wicking is an AMP tank, which I haven't heard the best things about. Maybe others have had a good experience with it, but from the video I watched and the price, I'm not interested.
I may have completely misunderstood what you were describing, but that's not unusual.
ETA: It almost sounds like you're describing the gel thingy.
sorry on my way out the door but lmfao tell that to my vivi novas...i've killed 2 of them because the caps that hold the wicks and seal the mouthpiece have come apart. They don't seem to like my juices (lmfao sounds wrong)
clove oil, anise, cinnamon and other flavors combined all together seems to be too much for them
The other part of the equation is that airflow is critical to vapour production. For a tank system, the wick is necessary to bring the liquid out of the tank and bring it into contact with the heating coil at just the right amount. Not enough liquid and the coil overheats, too much and it doesn't get hot enough and the airflow is obstructed.
Some months ago a guy proposed using lasers to heat the liquid (the "Freaking Lazors" thread) but he was struggling with the same wicking problem. Unfortunately he wasn't taken seriously (actually, he was ridiculed) so I think that was the end of the idea.
Eventually I think we will see some ideas along the lines of a piezo transducer, or yes even lasers. I think the transducer idea has already been done, but I don't know of a commercially available version of it.
The top and bottom caps are metal. Are you saying they are corroding?
Or are you talking about the black rubber 'O' rings? You could replace them with the white silicone 'O' rings - they should be pretty inert.
Yep yep it is absolutely fine to do whatever you want with the recipe.
BTW I find I really like the bavarian cream mixed with other things too. Bavarian cream with strawberry and banana makes a nice smoothie sort of flavor
As for the percentages I don't think my tastebuds have really come back all that much yet, by all means adjust to taste.
Those juices will kill the entire vivi nova (unless it's a glass or solid metal tube). This is what my favorite flavor did to one.
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A quetion for those that really know and understand mechs.
On my K100 is there a reason I shouldn't double stick tape a tiny bit of felt to the bottom of the button so it doesn't scratch the coffee table and bruise up my hand so much?
On my K100 is there a reason I shouldn't double stick tape a tiny bit of felt to the bottom of the button so it doesn't scratch the coffee table and bruise up my hand so much?
Only one that I can think of: It might be more likely to fall over with some felt on the bottom.
A wooden PV stand might be in order, but the felt on the button will cause you no other problesm.
yeah i have the metal for the nova...
the piece inside that holds the wick in place and goes into the top cap is come apart at the seams...
you are the weakest link, goodbye
i'll see if i can try to come up with a diagram of what I mean for a tank....
the piece inside that holds the wick in place and goes into the top cap is come apart at the seams...
you are the weakest link, goodbye
i'll see if i can try to come up with a diagram of what I mean for a tank....
If you are talking about the silicon rubber cap that fits over the head, or the head itself, they are a replaceable part and come complete with wick and coil ready to go. They shouldn't be breaking down though - that silicon rubber cap should be non-reactive to pretty well everything. Maybe you just got some maybe you just got some dud ones?
ok so um....crappy illustration but basic idea
so the outside of the tank is one solid piece that is heat resistant to stay cool to the touch only the lid comes off
inside is an attachable metal heat conductor that heats the liquid inside to a quick boil
steam/vape rises to top and out the air vent/mouthpiece with some sort of valve in place like a child's sippy cup has
so the outside of the tank is one solid piece that is heat resistant to stay cool to the touch only the lid comes off
inside is an attachable metal heat conductor that heats the liquid inside to a quick boil
steam/vape rises to top and out the air vent/mouthpiece with some sort of valve in place like a child's sippy cup has
I like gaskets. I also like Pyrex. Stainless Steel is also pretty cool.
I'm not a big fan of Vivi Novas, but I don't care much for any "clearomizer".
Interesting idea there Shadav. A completely new vapor delivery system! Good luck with that!
I'm not a big fan of Vivi Novas, but I don't care much for any "clearomizer".
Interesting idea there Shadav. A completely new vapor delivery system! Good luck with that!
I had to go for a job interview.
I don't think it's as simple as that, you still need some fresh airflow to produce vapour. The boiling point of PG is 180.2 C and the boiling point of VG is 290 C (356.36 F and 554 F respectively)
You can boil some PG in a teaspoon, but it doesn't quite work the way you expect it to. You only get vapour if you blow across the heated liquid.
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