Iatty
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You got any two Dollar stores nearby? May be in luck, as the Pound shops here have a big box O-Ring set, with a few that work.
This sounds like it would be great for me and a few other people I know but I really have a hard time imagining how to do it even with detailed instructions. I know it may be asking a lot but you wouldnt happen to have access to a decent video camera would ya? If not, what about some step by step pics?
OK guys, I got a SS mesh wick into the iAtty tonight and I can say one thing for sure...
With a mesh wick it hits like a freight train.
TH = 10+
Flavor = 10+
Nicotine delivery = 10+
Like this it is almost too strong. I used #400 SS mesh, pure silver NR wire and 32ga Kanthal at 1.2 ohm.
The iAtty in this configuration has the hit of the UFS at high voltage, amazing flavor and very strong TH. This configurations not for the faint of heart, I could only take 2hits from this beast before I started getting a nic buzz.
Here's how I did it.
I took a 15mm x 50mm piece of mesh and rolled it till it fit in the CE2 ceramic cup and then oxidized the entire wick, not just the part the coil gets wrapped around.
Once the oxidation is was done, I put it in a gutted CE2 to hold it steady while I made the tight bends. T make the bends, I took the butane torch I used to oxidize it, set it to high and focused the heat on one side of where it sticks out of the CE2. I heated it u til it gave to slight pressure then bent it to 45 degrees while still app,ting the heat from the torch. Do the same on both sides so you end up with a wick that looks like kind of like this \_/ (upside down though).
Make your wire like you normally would and wrap it around the center leg of the mesh.
Take 2 pieces Of the fiberglass wick just long enough to use to put between the mesh and the wire leads (you need this to seal up the channels where the wick goes to the liquid and to insulate the mesh from the leads).
Assemble the iAtty as you normally would, fill it with juice and hold on to your socks!
Remember, this setup kicks like nothing else I have ever tried. It does not burn the juice at all, but it produces extreme ammounts of very strong vapor... The first hit made me choke
To those of you brave enough to do this, you have been warned. I promised I'd do the experiment and post the results. Use at your own risk and try it with lower level nic juice first. I cannot say it strongly enough...the iAtty hits VERY HARD like this.
Personally, I will most likely work on a hybrid mesh/wick combo next to try to tame this for every day use.
When I get the tank drained I will open it up again and take some pics so you can see what it should look like when done.
I'll see what I can do about a tutorial for it. The setup has tamed very little now that the kanthal has broken in, or I am getting more used to it 
It's still VERY strong, but it's more enjoyable now that it doesn't put me on the verge of choking
Everything is still 10+, but now closer to like 15 than 20. Day one was like smoking 5 mboro reds at once, today it's closer to 2 or 3.
It's still VERY strong, but it's more enjoyable now that it doesn't put me on the verge of choking
Everything is still 10+, but now closer to like 15 than 20. Day one was like smoking 5 mboro reds at once, today it's closer to 2 or 3.
Hit the Iatty with more volts and you will see that works again like new Poppa
i have done that, and it does work.
My concern had been whether the plastic would be effected by the wattage present at the coil? The smallest amount of resistance wire touching the plastic, even the loose ends, seem to melt it.
I wonder if a ceramic coatings could be applied to metal to make a custom cup.
There is not a problem at all if the whole resistance wire is inside ceramic Poppa. I vape 1,5 ohm at 6 volts very often
What difference does this make to the configuration? Also which kanthal originally came with the iAtty?
Really keen to try this because only at 3.7v, even with the cone open a few mm, I keep getting burnt wicks. Maybe I am cutting the wicks too short? On the plus even with the cone so wide open, still not leaked one drop.
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The resistance wire that came with the iAtty is 34ga NiChrome as far as I can tell (correct me if I am wrong).
The difference is that the 32ga has less resistance for per in so is easier/better for LR coils (at least the Kanthal A-1 I am using is). I never had a coil I wound with 32ga Kanthal A1 fail even after a 30 second dry burn torture test (4.2 volts in a 1.5 ohm coil with no wick or juice on the coil). The coil was undamaged, held its shape and vaped normally after a wick was inserted and juice re-added. While I don't think this is a good idea for anyone else to do, it does show just how durable this resistance wire is. The lower resistance to length ratio simply means that you end up with more coils on the wick which gives you more heated surface area thus more vapor (in theory, but not 100% of the time in practice) in any given atomizer.
Kanthal holds it 's shape very well and is relatively very strong even when glowing red to near white hot. It's service temp is a bit higher than nichrome which also makes it a very good choice for vaping. It develops an oxidation layer very quickly as so the "off" taste of a new coil is gone pretty quickly (usually less than 10 good drags is needed to get to the broken in clean taste). This oxidation layer seals it from attack from liquids that it is contact with so it is also a very "clean" wire. Of course, as with all things where multiple materials will work to achieve a desired effect, some will prefer nichrome to kanthal for one reason or another. The tastes are slightly different too. With kanthal, the 'off" taste is more drastic, but disappears completely but with nichrome, the "off" taste is initially less and never goes completely away. Most of us are used to this taste because it is what is in almost all, if not all, commercial atomizers so the clear taste of kanthal after it is broken in may throw off some vapers. Subtle flavors come through better on broken in kanthal and strong flavors become even stronger. In the end I think it's best to experiment with them and decide what you like better. This is very easy with rebuildable atomizers like the iAtty so why not
The pure silver is good for those who have a sensitivity to nickel which is quite common and leaches less into the juice. It is a better conductor than nickel, but is harder to make iAtty coils with because it is so soft that it wants to wrap around the resistance wire instead of twisting together with it so there are plusses and minuses with using it. I think for most people, unless they have a nickel sensitivity, the nickel is a better coice for NR wire and it is much less expensive than fine silver.
Your experiences may be different than my own, but this is what I have noticed so far.
However, you can save the Silver wire when you are done with it and consider it an investment as it is a precious metal
Also, the DS (Dead Soft) wire can be hardened a little bit just by applying a little heat from a butane torch.
Also, the DS (Dead Soft) wire can be hardened a little bit just by applying a little heat from a butane torch.
And I tried this one week ago and it worked only for one inhale. When I changed the fuse-spring in my ggts, and went back to 3,7V, everything was okay. What did I do wrong?
My word that answer was absolutely fascinating, so excited to try out the kanthal; always been on that quest to eliminate unwanted flavour.
What diameter silver wire please?
What diameter silver wire please?
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If you mean that coil got burned then it was not very wet BG. Try to vape Iatty for 1-2 days before you hit it at 6 volts and have the res full of liquid
this is for the Silver Wire which can be found here: 1/2oz (100') .999 US Fine Silver 30 Gauge Round DS Wire - eBay (item 400174020403 end time Aug-14-11 09:20:04 PDT)
30 AWG 0,254mm dia
Here is a handy reference for converting gauges of wires:
Wire Gauge Reference Table
30 AWG 0,254mm dia
Here is a handy reference for converting gauges of wires:
Wire Gauge Reference Table
@Imeo No I don't mean this. I vaped Iatty for some days and then I wanted to try if it would work with higher voltage with the same wick and wire. But the Fuse-Spring of my GGTS was destroyed after that try.
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However, you can save the Silver wire when you are done with it and consider it an investment as it is a precious metal
Also, the DS (Dead Soft) wire can be hardened a little bit just by applying a little heat from a butane torch.
True, it is a precious metal, worse come to worst
I didn't think to try to harden it a bit, I just took my time with the wrapping and made sure they wound together nicely with a pull test. Good tip, thanks Zor.
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