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imeothanasis

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If you look inside the cap you will see the threads eye. At the bottom of the cap where the threads ends there is a clear place at 1mm width that it has no threads. If you put there a 17x1mm o-ring you will seal the cap totally. But are you sure that you have leakage from there?
 

imeothanasis

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imeothanasis

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The only you have to do is to screw the plastics well. Not like crazy, normal with a little force. Also check if the plastics grab the NR wire and they dont screw well, thats all.

ps.... a very small condensation like sweat is normal. Its not leakage , its exactly what you said, condensation
 

imeothanasis

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I read somewhere that 2 people had problems with the center pins of their mods when they attached the Iatty on it. I said it earlier but I have to say it again, Iatty is a very hard construction and may damage your mod if you overtight it on them. You will not have a problem only to your center pin but to your threads too. Screw with caution and careful. If you crossthread the Iatty in a mod the most possible is that the mod's connector will get damaged.
 

Ace73

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Managed to source some smaller ammounts of Fine Silver Wire - Dead Soft. Happy now.
Come on lorderos, we're all rooting for you, all the best with this video, or pictorial. :D

Given I don't have to buy 100 feet I like this option a little better than eBay. I still may get the 100 feet. I use about 20cm per coil and I can get 25 feet for $16 shipped which is 762cm or 38 coils. Thank you Carol.

BTW. I use 2 10cm NR and 1 5.5cm R with 1cm splices at each end of the R. It gives me a 2.0 to 2.1ohm coil. I have been using the method of putting the wick on top of the coil in the ceramic cup. This works great. I am really looking forward to trying some of the Nextel wick when I am sure about the process of burning off the sizing. Just some FYI
 
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Rick.45cal

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The last 24 hr atomizer:
I used a doubled and twisted 34 ga. resistance wire, which is very long, 15 wraps, at 2.6 ohms. I made Imeo's no-wick coil, added the wick to the top. I'm vaping at 6.4 volts with RCR123a batteries. So far no drop in performance at all. Every thing is working 10+ very good results.



Interesting note about doubling and twisting the wire, it cuts the resistance in half. So if you use a single stand length that tests out at 3 ohm and double it with a second strand the same length the ohms will drop to 1.5 ohms, which is opposite of what I had expected.

Poppa, give this one a shot:
twisted 36g 3.5Ohm at 6.4. The coil length ends up being big, but a perfect fit. Great flavor, great throat hit. One seriously great vape!!!:2cool:
 

lorderos33

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oK, here it is again with pics on building the iAtty with a mesh wick. Hope this helps :)

Here's how I did it.

I took a 15mm x 50mm piece of mesh and rolled it till it fit in the CE2 ceramic cup and then oxidized the entire wick, not just the part the coil gets wrapped around.

lorderos33-albums-iatty-mesh-wick-picture46688-rolled-mesh-not-formed-oxidized.jpg


Once the oxidation is was done, I put it in a gutted CE2 to hold it steady while I made the tight bends. T make the bends, I took the butane torch I used to oxidize it, set it to high and focused the heat on one side of where it sticks out of the CE2. I heated it u til it gave to slight pressure then bent it to 45 degrees while still applying the heat from the torch. Do the same on both sides so you end up with a wick that looks like kind of like this \_/ (upside down though).

lorderos33-albums-iatty-mesh-wick-picture46689-mesh-wick-formed-oxidized.jpg


Make your wire like you normally would and wrap it around the center leg of the mesh.

Take 2 pieces Of the fiberglass wick just long enough to use to put between the mesh and the wire leads (you need this to seal up the channels where the wick goes to the liquid and to insulate the mesh from the leads).

Assemble the iAtty as you normally would, fill it with juice and hold on to your socks!

lorderos33-albums-iatty-mesh-wick-picture46686-iatty-finished-side.jpg


lorderos33-albums-iatty-mesh-wick-picture46685-iatty-finished-top.jpg


lorderos33-albums-iatty-mesh-wick-picture46687-resistance-provari.jpg


Remember, this setup kicks like nothing else I have ever tried. It does not burn the juice at all, but it produces extreme amounts of very strong vapor... The first hit made me choke

To those of you brave enough to do this, you have been warned. I promised I'd do the experiment and post the results. Use at your own risk and try it with lower level nic juice first. I cannot say it strongly enough...the iAtty hits VERY HARD like this.

Personally, I will most likely work on a hybrid mesh/wick combo next to try to tame this for every day use.

The pics were taken after a couple o days and 2 full tanks vaped through, no cleaning, just opened the iAtty and took pics ;). As you can see, it stays very clean. The vapor production is as good as the first day still, flavor is through the roof and TH is now manageable. I can hit after hit with no issues, but if I chain vape it, it's an almost instant head buzz and I have to fight back the coughs, lol, but no burnt taste at all. It's very nice. :)

You'll have to excuse the pics, they were taken with my phone.
 
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lorderos33

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Thanks Lorderos, great pictures.
I gotta try this. I'm always hunting for TH beacuse i use high-VG liquid, and Th is absent on almost all device combinations. Best i've gotten so far is on dual coil cartos, but this sounds like it's what i need :)

Careful what you wish for on this one ;). This literally has more TH than a couple of full flavor analogs at once. It does tame down after a day or two, but just to the point where it's not painful anymore, hahahaha. To give you an idea, I'm vaping at 50/50 24mg (custom mix of course).

If for some reason you need even more TH, you can increase TH by changing the mesh. Lower count = higher throat hit. Typically #400 is a middle of the road mesh. #325 is more throat hit and #500 is much more smooth and mellow vapor. Of course the higher the count the bigger the clour in most cases too. #325 more TH less vapor, #500 little TH and TONS of vapor.
 

clavit

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Careful what you wish for on this one ;).

I'll give it a go anyway. I'm brave (I think!). I usually vape 60-80% VG, and i've cut down from 20 to 10mg after getting the Iatty, not because it hits harder but because it's glued to my lips whenever i'm not asleep :) It sounds like i might have to get used to putting it down once in awhile.
I've got 400mesh on the way. I guess that's a good starting point, but thanks for the tips on mesh count.
 

atavanhalen

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Thanks for posting pics I have a good idea how to do it now but I have one question, what exactlyh is the purpose of the fiberglass wick and how is it place in there, I can not see where it ends at the top in the pictures. You mentioned that it was to insulate from the leads but why would you need to if the entire ss mesh is oxidized? Does the steel wick not fill up the channels well enough to seal it up, so you need to seal it up with fiberglass wick?
 

lorderos33

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Thanks for posting pics I have a good idea how to do it now but I have one question, what exactlyh is the purpose of the fiberglass wick and how is it place in there, I can not see where it ends at the top in the pictures. You mentioned that it was to insulate from the leads but why would you need to if the entire ss mesh is oxidized? Does the steel wick not fill up the channels well enough to seal it up, so you need to seal it up with fiberglass wick?

The purpose if the fiberglass wick is 2-fold. It is just an added layer of insulation for the leads plus it takes up the extra space that the mesh does not fill in the slots cut into the delrin for the wick to go through. Because the mesh acts like a porous straw, it does not have very much give so there is open space that needs to be filled in or gravity will make your juice go through and dump out the bottom of the iAtty. The holes in the mesh are small enough that surface tension prevents seepage through the mesh.

The fiberglass is just sitting in there pushed into the slots on the top and bottom plastic pieces that the mesh wick and wires go through. The small amount of tension from the wick wanting to expand in the slot keeps it in place well enough and once it's put together it cannot go anywhere even if it wanted to :).
 

lorderos33

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Thanks that answers my question perfectly. I will let you know how I do with it in a couple days.

I hope that you and everyone who tries it enjoys it as much as I do. I just recently ran across a tip on oxidizing the SS mesh. The tip is to use a butane lighter instead of a butane torch. Apparently the heat from the torch is too high and anneals the mesh instead of just oxidizing it. I'll be trying that on my Hybrid mini since there are no mesh acrobatics needed on that one, just a straight wick :)
 

lorderos33

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Very nice tutorial lorderos, the cone isn't used with this method then? if not how much liquid can you use in the tank?

please forgive if this is a stupid question, it's very early in the morning here ;)

Yes, the cone is definitely needed, nobody should try this without the cone unless they want to use their iAtty as a very expensive funnel. The cone is what keeps the juice from just flowing out of the bottom hole in the ceramic :) I took it off to show what it looks like inside so others could do it too.
 
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