nope, i'm using fiberglass wick, sterling silver NR wire & 32ga kanthal R wire... was just wondering what is the appropriate way to wash and fill my iatty with another flavor liquid?
Iatty
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nope, i'm using fiberglass wick, sterling silver NR wire & 32ga kanthal R wire... was just wondering what is the appropriate way to wash and fill my iatty with another flavor liquid?
Yes, the whole coil and wick. The ss mesh will not burn no matter what you do to it and the 32ga kanthal is very sturdy so there is no worry of damaging the coil itself unless you are VERY rough with it.
I clean it by taking the tank and cone off, brushing the coil with a toothbrush and then dry burning the assembly till all the deposits turn to ash and can be blown/brushed off.
*** A word of caution - NEVER EVER DRY BURN THE FIBERGLASS WICK. It will melt will not work after that. I ONLY dry burn with the ss mesh wick because it will not ever burn or melt***
I rinse it in vodka or everclear and let it dry then put the cone and tank back on and fill it up. It comes out just like new again - full TH, vapor and flavor is restored and it looks very clean like it should. Whenever I do change the coil/mesh (mostly just to keep in practice and I'm neurotic about off color marks on things like stains from liquid or residue marks) I also pull off the ceramic from the plastic and heat it to near white hot with a blow torch. It comes out looking just like new from a package. Be careful not to get burnt with it, it holds onto heat for a while and you don't want to dunk hot ceramic in water to cool because it will likely shatter.
The suppliers will hate me for this, but doing this with the materials I use will get you a coil that will last months and months even with repeated abuse and tastes/vapes (IMHO) better than anything else available. It's as close to an everlasting coil as you can get and still have excellent vaping performance. The best flavor and vapor comes after the coil has settled (typically by the next day but often within 10 or 15 drags)
Yes, here is how it looks all together.
I use a bit of the fiberglass wick to insulate the mesh from the lead wires. It should not be needed because the entire mesh is oxidized, but it seals the gap in the plastic and provides and extra piece of mind that I will not have any shorts
Thanks for the tips lorderos. After cleaning and rinsing will need some time to dry, definitely good to source for another iatty for backup. Lol.
Not really, that is why I use vodka or everclear. It evaporates very fast and burns off even faster. If you just let it sit it will be dry in just a few minutes. If you fire it a few times it will be dry in less than 30 seconds
Just an update......
After making about a dozen by wrapping, crimp tubes, and soldering.....soldering is at the top of the list; especially when making a few at one time. I'm using Super Easy silver solder/paste mix that has a melting temp of about 1200F. Just a TINY bit of solder/paste and a couple of seconds with the torch and it's done. Any excess can be ground off.
Soldering is stronger and much easier to wrap. Here's an avg looking joint; hopefully it will get cleaner and smaller with practice.
If I'm doing one; I'll wrap the wires; crimping goes on the shelf. By the time I get one done with crimping I can solder 2 and I don't have to worry about one of the wires pulling out of the tube.
Can I just ask, when the resistance wire is being heated, and glowing red, does it not melt the solder joints ?
It's supposed to...to a degree. Silver solder is closer to brazing so it takes more heat to melt it.
hey guys,just wondering how many turn should be in the ceramic ? im getting a lil bit less of vape.hmm
Not really, that is why I use vodka or everclear. It evaporates very fast and burns off even faster. If you just let it sit it will be dry in just a few minutes. If you fire it a few times it will be dry in less than 30 seconds
Ok I'll give it a try. brushed the coil and rinse with vodka it shall be
Ok I'll give it a try. brushed the coil and rinse with vodka it shall be
Take it really easy on the wick. The fiberglass wick is not very strong, but the wire should be OK.
That depends on the resistance wire you are using. I put 4 coils in mine and it comes out to 1.5 - 1.8 ohms with 32ga kanthal.
How do I know if I oxidized the wick properly? It looks black and burnt, not really looking like it's going to taste good with my juice lol
I heated a 15mm x 50mm rolled up mesh up until glowing and dipped.. I did that 3 times
I heated a 15mm x 50mm rolled up mesh up until glowing and dipped.. I did that 3 times
Now put a little bit of zero nic juice all over the wick and light it on fire with a lighter (Would be wise to hold onto the wick with some tweezers or something). Do that a couple times. You should be able to lay your Multimeter probes on it and it should read really high resistance.... in the Meg Ohms. You may never get it to read (infinity) like an open circuit.
Just do not scrape your probes along the mesh as that may remove some of the oxidization and cause a short when you make your coil
Just do not scrape your probes along the mesh as that may remove some of the oxidization and cause a short when you make your coil
It will look black, this is what you want to see when you are done. Depending on the heat applied, sometimes it will look more reddish sometimes very black.
You will not taste anything at all from the mesh, just the juice.
I think that when the ss wick has been oxidized, then it cant make shorts with the coil..Try to test with a multimeter
It should not short, but abrasion can wear off the oxidation layer and then cause a short.
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