Introducing Torpedo Tanks.

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Pete54

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Hey mist, the mod that MX is talking about is probably excellent (SS mesh wick) but I, like you, don't want to have to go to that length to make CE2's work. If you have only tried the R4's (these have a thin wick that passes through the coil three times) you really need to try the R5''s (fat wick) that Jonah mentioned. If I had to use the R4's I'd have given up on CE2's a long time ago. On a side note, I'm loving my Carto tanks that I made from some old "other" tanks by drilling out the delrin caps to accept a Boge LR Carto. They don't ever leak and are a breeze to use. Jonah will have his Depth Charge tanks out shortly and I believe they will be just what the doctor ordered!
 

JonahNM

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While the wait is on for the Depth Charge I want to say something about the carto's and carto tanks. When you cut a carto with a dremal it leaves metal shavings and particles of the cutting wheel in the carto. This is a bad thing and unlike what some people have said a magnet will not fix it stainless steel and carbon both are not attracted to magnets. All of the cartos in my carto tanks and that I sell for carto tanks will have the hole punched in them with a watch punch, this will make a clean small hole with no metal or carbon shavings. If you want to use cartos in tanks please don't cut them with cut off wheels.
 

JonahNM

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Jonah, please give us a sneak peek at the Depth Charge! I'm trying not to buy another vendors SS Carto Tank until yours comes out but I'm getting weak looking at pictures of it! Help!!!!!!

Right now the CNC is tide up on a machine part order. As soon as I can take pictures I will be making the Depth Charge and not have time until the unveiling. But it will be worth the wait Pete I promise.
 

fright88

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Hey mist, the mod that MX is talking about is probably excellent (SS mesh wick) but I, like you, don't want to have to go to that length to make CE2's work. If you have only tried the R4's (these have a thin wick that passes through the coil three times) you really need to try the R5''s (fat wick) that Jonah mentioned. If I had to use the R4's I'd have given up on CE2's a long time ago. On a side note, I'm loving my Carto Tanks that I made from some old "other" tanks by drilling out the delrin caps to accept a Boge LR Carto. They don't ever leak and are a breeze to use. Jonah will have his Depth Charge Tanks out shortly and I believe they will be just what the doctor ordered!

Agreed on the R5 ordered a couple pre cut from Jonah and they work great in my torpedo
 

mistinthewoods

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The R5 (fat wick) are what I've been using. Got a box of Royal Smokers with my tank and that's what they were. I've unraveled the wicks and widened the notches in the silicone seal where the wick goes through and that seems to have helped. Not flawless, but better. The hits start getting a little hot when the tank's down to half full and I have to tip it to soak the top of the wicks to get full flavor. I have another carto tank I use sometimes with an IKV 801 Fusion carto and that's good but the CE2s are better on flavor when you can keep the coil wet. I'd like to make these work for me unless it means a complete rebuild of the carto or buying a friggin' butane torch.
 

PKZap27

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--snipped--

I believe that burning the wick on a CE2 was done earlier when CE2's were first released or shortly after that, as it was needed to help with something that I don't even know!

I also believe that the manufacturer of the CE2's changed something (maybe the wick material) and you no longer need to burn the wicks on CE2's.

Hope this helps!

PKZ
 

Para

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While the wait is on for the Depth Charge I want to say something about the carto's and carto tanks. When you cut a carto with a dremal it leaves metal shavings and particles of the cutting wheel in the carto. This is a bad thing and unlike what some people have said a magnet will not fix it stainless steel and carbon both are not attracted to magnets. All of the cartos in my carto tanks and that I sell for carto tanks will have the hole punched in them with a watch punch, this will make a clean small hole with no metal or carbon shavings. If you want to use cartos in tanks please don't cut them with cut off wheels.

Let me know if there's any changes you'd like to see on the punch.

Ditto what Jonah said about cutting with a wheel; it kicks up a LOT of foreign matter since the wheel disintegrates as it comes in contact with the steel. The worst part is the debris is very small so it's easy to move everywhere; including the vapor. You couldn't pay me to use a cart cut with a cutoff disc.
 

Pete54

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cant wait for the depth charge tank! i've had it with these other tanks that leak! save me Jonah!
I'm with you jonny! While you're waiting, if you have any old delrin capped tanks you can modify them to use carto's very easily. Use this Dremel tool 952 Aluminum Oxide Grinding Stone / Model: 952 and slowly rout each end cap, turning them over, making sure to rout from both sides. Keep checking the fit until a carto fits. You can make them just the right tightness if you take your time. You'll need a shorty tube for it to fit a Boge carto. They work perfectly and should hold me until Jonah gets the Depth Charge done!
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bmwjen

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Jonah, I know I did a written review of your tanks a while back (it's under the review section & also on my website), but I used one of your torpedo tanks to review a juice today. Thought I'd post a link to show people just how easy it is to fill your tanks, & how well they work :) Again, the review is actually for a juice.........but features your tank & ease of use.

~feel free to delete if this is totally inappropriate~

 

rojo

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Upcoming products:

Torpedo Slim : A Stainless Steel Torpedo Tank in the Ego form factor. At a 1/2 inch diameter this tanks will only hold approximately 2.4ml but it will fit perfectly on an Ego battery, with optional thread cover to complete the smooth look. ETA 2 weeks.

Got any construction porn we can see for the Torpedo Slim yet? :pop:

And have you considered carrying some 510 whistle tips to go with your Torpedo line?
 
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JonahNM

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Got any construction porn we can see for the Torpedo Slim yet? :pop:

And have you considered carrying some 510 whistle tips to go with your Torpedo line?

After we are done with the gears we are turning for a custom bike we will start on the slim and the depth charge. I will try to get around to pictures once we are making them.

I have not found any whistle tips I like for a good price. I am also thinking about just doing a line of drip tips myself when I have a little time.
 

ericdjobs

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I believe that burning the wick on a CE2 was done earlier when CE2's were first released or shortly after that, as it was needed to help with something that I don't even know!

I also believe that the manufacturer of the CE2's changed something (maybe the wick material) and you no longer need to burn the wicks on CE2's.

Hope this helps!

PKZ

A couple people told this to me... but when I got my 5 pack of CE2's.. I started to experiment... #1 #2 and #3 all were failures wicking wise, even at 3.7v (The coil was getting red hot even full of juice)

on #4 I decided to try and burn the wicks using a butane torch lighter. I torched the wicks in the new CE2 guts, dry burned the coil for quite awhile (to simulate 'torching' the wick inside the coil) I unravelled the ends of the wicks.... This bad boy stays BLACK even at 5v.. so much vapor and flavor... burning the wicks still does definitely do SOMETHING.. i don't know what but the difference was so pronounced it was unreal.

I decided to use #5 to confirm my findings, so with #5 I simply just burnt the wicks/dry burn (while they are new, without juice).. I didn't do any of the other mods I did with the last one (like replacing the fill-cap upside-down to improve wicking, which it does) just burnt the wicks..

And #5 wicked almost as good as #4.. heh.. if anyone has any idea WHY this works, please chime in.. but it does appear to work.
 
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