itaste VTR
- Thread starter greghemmings
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I just got my VTR in the mail and have been happily vaping on it for 2 days. No buzzing that I can hear. I really do enjoy it and am happy I invested in it on Black Friday or Cyber Monday, I can't remember. Happy Vaping 
i've been happy with the 30s so far. Only down side is the heads aren't cheap and the tank is plastic. I would prefer stainless or glass.
I think the ibtanked 19mm xl is the way to go with these. My BIG gripe about the VTR is that stupid wheel. I hate that thing! The ohms are all over the place all the time. I've had mine for a while and it was fine for a few days but now after several weeks it has progressively gotten worse. So bad now to where I have retired it and I'm back to my other devices. I will tear down the VTR in the near future and see if I can solder that dumb thing to where it doesn't move. AARRGG!!
I heard Innokin addressed that. Perhaps you can contact Innokin and see if they'll let you swap. After all, if it's affecting the operation of the device, I would call that a design flaw and technically under warranty. If my single rivet iTaste vv3 separates, I plan to do the same thing. It has not yet....knock on wood.
Yeah, but how do you contact Innokin and get them to respond to you? I am frustrated with my VTR due to the 510 wheel, (design/engineering/QC/etc.) have contacted them directly and through FB, and no response. They have a form of selective hearing.
I followed a suggestion from this forum for my wandering Ω's. The poster suggested spinning the wheel a LOT. I spun mine repeatedly for a long time. With every use I would spin the wheel 30-40 times. The spin became progressively smoother and the wandering Ω's stopped. It has been rock steady since freeing up the wheel. May not work with your device, it just worked for me. Good luck.
To repeat another tip for wandering ohms, clean the well of the 510 connector and clean the "internals" through the two slots that are in that well with some isopropyl alcohol on a q-tip or cotton bud. There seems to have been a problem with machine oil down there and that's the only way, short of taking the VTR completely apart, to clean it up, even a little.
I have a VTR, along with Innokins SVD, the new Coolfire1, and a Vamo v5. I useProtanks and Smoke PBC tanks.The VTR is a box mod and fits your hand very well. That's a good thing, cause the VTR is heavy, but in a good way. My mods are all vv/vw and they are all awesome .
Finally got around to trying the thing. It does seem to need a air flow controller added for my Protank2.
I use the pro tanks,and a IBTanked 19mm XL on my VTR. The IBTanked XL, blows the pro tank/IClear 30S away! I use the Iclear 30S,that came with it also,but it's not my favorite,by a long shot. It's not bad,but just not great either!
It get's the least use of them all.
It get's the least use of them all.
The camo green model dosen't show finger prints like the chrome model. Plus it has a better feel to the grip.
The deal killer for me is that the VTR doesn't use the filtered output that the MVP and VV3 use.
I find this a bit concerning. The VTR and 134 are marketed as premium APV's and yet they have PWM on the output just like the cheapest clones available on FastTech.
Someone said that the PWM is not as bad because it is not the typical 33hz, but rather 47 to 48. But still, I would expect better.
Innokin has already proven they can do it. The MVP and iTaste are clean, and you can't pin the blame on the batteries because batteries are batteries, whether they be in a 16xxx form factor or a pouch battery like the vv3 and MVP.
Two of the LEAST expensive devices produced by Innokin have a steady flat DC signal and two of their most expensive mods rattlesnake? How does that make sense?
Is there a reason that Innokin chose to have the PWM on the output? Does it make these mod's more "macho". I'd really like an explanation as I would expect a premium product like the VTR or 134 to have better regulation circuitry than the rather pedestrian vv3 or MVP 2.
I find this a bit concerning. The VTR and 134 are marketed as premium APV's and yet they have PWM on the output just like the cheapest clones available on FastTech.
Someone said that the PWM is not as bad because it is not the typical 33hz, but rather 47 to 48. But still, I would expect better.
Innokin has already proven they can do it. The MVP and iTaste are clean, and you can't pin the blame on the batteries because batteries are batteries, whether they be in a 16xxx form factor or a pouch battery like the vv3 and MVP.
Two of the LEAST expensive devices produced by Innokin have a steady flat DC signal and two of their most expensive mods rattlesnake? How does that make sense?
Is there a reason that Innokin chose to have the PWM on the output? Does it make these mod's more "macho". I'd really like an explanation as I would expect a premium product like the VTR or 134 to have better regulation circuitry than the rather pedestrian vv3 or MVP 2.
My thoughts as well. I have been thinking of adding an SVD to my kit, but I'm worried that I won't like it as well as my iTaste VV3. I can't afford a ProVari right now and I rather not buy another throwaway. So what to do?
I'm in the same boat as you, except I CAN afford a ProVari right now (thanks to a "bonus" from my company). I'm trying NOT to impulse buy, since I have been impulse buying pretty much since I started vaping.
I currently have
3 itaste vv3's (for my out and about vape)
1 MVP 2 (for my home vape)
3 Mini Protank 2's
2 Mini Protank 1's
1 iClear 15B
2 Replacement glass for the Mini Protank 2
24 SPARE Kanger Heads
170 ML of e-juice currently in the mail
130 ML of e-juice currently in my drawer
10 yards of 32 gauge Kanthal Wire in the mail
2 yards of wicking material. in the mail
I mean it's like I'm preparing for the zombie apocalypse. I've even considered learning how to DIY zero nic e-juice "just in case".
Vaping is supposed to SAVE me money, but only if I stop buying everything in sight and dreaming up "worst case scenarios" in my head.
LOL... I just bought my 4th Mini Protank. I was getting worried that I might have a problem. I see you have 5 Mini Protanks, so it is you with the problem. Man, I feel better now...
LOL... I just bought my 4th Mini Protank. I was getting worried that I might have a problem. I see you have 5 Mini Protanks, so it is you with the problem. Man, I feel better now...
To be fair, the two mini protank 1's are in their original box and are officially designated as backups to my backups.
I have three mini protank 2's in rotation, with 2 pieces of glass. (yes, even one of the glass is backup to a backup)
I first purchased the mini protank 1's because I was concerned with the glueless construction of the mini protank 2 might lead to more leakage. I tried a mini protank 2 on a recommendation because I was told of how easy they are to clean and dry, and once I had one, I had to get two more. They are super easy to clean and dry and refill, no more "overnight drying". I don't forsee those mini protank 1's seeing the light of day anytime soon. As long as mini 2's and their replacement glass inserts are available, those mini 1's will spend a lot of time in the drawer.
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