itaste VTR
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I did some work for the Corps of Engineers in Huntington, years ago. It was weird sitting in Bob Evans eating breakfast and knowing that without that flood wall I'd have been about fifteen feet underwater.
That's cool, I'm through there every few weeks. Our port is in pt pleasant and we run to south point every now and then
Thats what I want to do, dont want to lose the ring. What tools (size/type of files & whatnot) did you use to shave the ring back? How big (in mm) did you go?I modified my ring to fit the kayfun
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Easiest tool I can think of is a brake cylinder hone chucked in a drill. May not be super fast, but will give a very even job.
I have a stained glass studio so I have 7/32" copper foil on hand, but it's easily located at a Hobby Lobby. I took a small strip of the copper foil, wrapped it around the threads on the iclear 30s tank, screwed it in and no more wobble, great connection! I highly recommend this fix! I was ready to get rid of my itaste VTR until I found the workaround.
My first one has the thread problem, rather badly. Luckily I bought a backup at a really great price. Anyhow, I'm considering taking it apart and putting a fixed 510 connector in place of the rotation one. If that fails, I may use the guts to make my own version, with dual 186550s and able to take larger tanks. That all depends on getting a drill press though.
So,
I got my VTR about 2 weeks ago. Used it with a Nautilus mini for a bit and really liked it, I opened up the ring enough by grinding it with a die grinder to fit the Nautilus in from the top. (super easy) It worked well
Shineyitis has got me lately, and the Kayfun was getting really interesting. I've never had a RBA before and figured it was time to give it a go.
I ordered up an Ehpro Kayfun 3.1 and some kanthal in 28/30/32ga...
Used a die grinder (like an air powered dremel) with a burr to open up the ring on the VTR to 22mm. Fine tuned and finished the job with sand paper/emery cloth. By the time I had it opened up to fit kayfun, there was a thin but still solid portion of the ring left, approximately .030" or so. To do this, I removed the top of the VTR (4 small torx screws) and roughed out the ring with the die grinder, then reinstalled and fit/sanded/fit the kayfun till it slid in smoothly.
I've attached pics of the setup, I think it looks fantastic. It's certianly a stout build now and while heavy, it's easily pocketable.
First time wrapping a coil for me too, so I used some 30ga kanthal and organic cotton. Wrapped a 2mm coil on a small screwdriver and hit 2 ohms which is what I was shooting for. I might go 1.5 next time... I dry burned them on the VTR and set them close, perfect glow from center out (who would have known it'd be so easy?)
Wicking with organic cotton balls was alot easier than I thought, just copied what I seen on a few youtube vids.
It vapes really decent, there is a slight gurgle the first moment of the draw, but it's not flooding by any means. Perhaps this is normal? No dry hit, vapes 10x better than the Nautilus mini.
Thanks to all who contribute here, it's only because of this community that I've gone from ego's and CE-4's (was on those in ignorant bliss for the last 4 years, hadn't checked in here to see what was new for a long time)
I got my VTR about 2 weeks ago. Used it with a Nautilus mini for a bit and really liked it, I opened up the ring enough by grinding it with a die grinder to fit the Nautilus in from the top. (super easy) It worked well
Shineyitis has got me lately, and the Kayfun was getting really interesting. I've never had a RBA before and figured it was time to give it a go.
I ordered up an Ehpro Kayfun 3.1 and some kanthal in 28/30/32ga...
Used a die grinder (like an air powered dremel) with a burr to open up the ring on the VTR to 22mm. Fine tuned and finished the job with sand paper/emery cloth. By the time I had it opened up to fit kayfun, there was a thin but still solid portion of the ring left, approximately .030" or so. To do this, I removed the top of the VTR (4 small torx screws) and roughed out the ring with the die grinder, then reinstalled and fit/sanded/fit the kayfun till it slid in smoothly.
I've attached pics of the setup, I think it looks fantastic. It's certianly a stout build now and while heavy, it's easily pocketable.
First time wrapping a coil for me too, so I used some 30ga kanthal and organic cotton. Wrapped a 2mm coil on a small screwdriver and hit 2 ohms which is what I was shooting for. I might go 1.5 next time... I dry burned them on the VTR and set them close, perfect glow from center out (who would have known it'd be so easy?)
Wicking with organic cotton balls was alot easier than I thought, just copied what I seen on a few youtube vids.
It vapes really decent, there is a slight gurgle the first moment of the draw, but it's not flooding by any means. Perhaps this is normal? No dry hit, vapes 10x better than the Nautilus mini.
Thanks to all who contribute here, it's only because of this community that I've gone from ego's and CE-4's (was on those in ignorant bliss for the last 4 years, hadn't checked in here to see what was new for a long time)
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Does anyone know what size Torx bit is needed to take a VTR apart? I've got two, one with a stripped 510 connector and my backup is reading"non" on every atomizer I try on it. I'm desperate! I love my VTRs.
Hey Awsum140, how are you doing? In response to your question, I did find this post (#10) here:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/rebuildable-atomizer-systems/546326-kayfun-russian-technology-form-factor.html#post12701072
that seems to answer your question. Hope it helps!
Thanks, Joseph! I searched this thread looking for Torx and while it was mentioned a few times, no one ever mentioned a size. I've got to get at least one of these things working again. The VTR is my favorite for "out and about" use. I just wish it would fit a Fogger tank, without that extension tube.
Oooops, meant to mention T6 for the screw size.
Oooops, meant to mention T6 for the screw size.
You're welcome. I know how fond of the VTR you are!
PS - I hope you tried a few different coils first. I had the same problem with mine a while back, but it turned out to be a faulty coil in my PT2.
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It is odd that a Protank, with aero base, threads solidly enough to use it, but none of my iClear stuff will stay seated, they all pop up. Even the extension tube pops up, and that's never been actually used. To be honest, I've been working the original one I have really hard, using it for at least several hours a day. All those tank changes seem to have caught up to it.
Yeah, that does seem odd. What a pity the 510 connection isn't replaceable without disassembling the whole unit. It takes more wear and tear than any other part of the device. I suppose you could just confine yourself to using Protanks.
I use mine more as a back-up nowadays just to avoid the wear and tear on the connection threading.Has anyone managed to do that yet? My V1 has started to give the dreaded random resistance readings, so I'm guessing it won't last much longer
I'm working on installing a "Big Daddy" 510 connector this afternoon. If I don't destroy the VTR in the process, I'll post photos and a description.
To answer your question, Hermit, yes a new 510 connector can be installed on the VTR. Sorry, I don't have a way to transfer photos from my camera right now but I'll describe what I did.
Get a T-6 torx screwdriver, preferably of decent quality because those screws are tight and have some type of LokTite on them. Remove the four screws from the bottom cover. Remove the bottom cover and pull out the battery tube. De-solder the power lead going to the center pin inside the VTR. Using the pry tool of your own choice, pry off the rotating ring. Use a 3/8" drill bit and drill out the original 510 connector. Use a burr bit in a Dremel to remove all the ridges left under the spinning wheel. Using the burr on the Dremel, mill off any metal that will be in the way of the nut for your new 510 connector on the inside of the VTR. Then just install the connector, solder on to the new center pin, close it up and vape away!
It took me about an hour, total time, to smooth out those grooves and mill out all the excess metal inside the VTR so I could get the nut in for the new connector. The metal is brass and, what I think is, "pot metal" so it's soft enough for a burr to cut easily using the Dremel like a pencil grinder. Of course, clean out all the spoils from the milling before putting it back together. The "Fat Daddy" connector is a perfect fit with its extra trim ring. It is brushed stainless so it doesn't have the shine of the rest of the VTR, but having a working VTR is way more important than a matching finish to me. I'll try and get some photos posted later this weekend. My machine work on the inside ain't too pretty, but it worked and that's what's important.
By the way, random resistance readings can also happen because of dust and oxidation inside the rotating connector. I had that problem originally and cured it by using some isopropyl alcohol, q-tips, paper towels and tooth picks to clean it out. Mine worked very well until the threads gave out on the 510 connector. As an after though to that problem, the 510 connector is actually a two piece design and careful application of a little squeezing, if you can figure out how to get to it, might cure the bad thread problems.
Get a T-6 torx screwdriver, preferably of decent quality because those screws are tight and have some type of LokTite on them. Remove the four screws from the bottom cover. Remove the bottom cover and pull out the battery tube. De-solder the power lead going to the center pin inside the VTR. Using the pry tool of your own choice, pry off the rotating ring. Use a 3/8" drill bit and drill out the original 510 connector. Use a burr bit in a Dremel to remove all the ridges left under the spinning wheel. Using the burr on the Dremel, mill off any metal that will be in the way of the nut for your new 510 connector on the inside of the VTR. Then just install the connector, solder on to the new center pin, close it up and vape away!
It took me about an hour, total time, to smooth out those grooves and mill out all the excess metal inside the VTR so I could get the nut in for the new connector. The metal is brass and, what I think is, "pot metal" so it's soft enough for a burr to cut easily using the Dremel like a pencil grinder. Of course, clean out all the spoils from the milling before putting it back together. The "Fat Daddy" connector is a perfect fit with its extra trim ring. It is brushed stainless so it doesn't have the shine of the rest of the VTR, but having a working VTR is way more important than a matching finish to me. I'll try and get some photos posted later this weekend. My machine work on the inside ain't too pretty, but it worked and that's what's important.
By the way, random resistance readings can also happen because of dust and oxidation inside the rotating connector. I had that problem originally and cured it by using some isopropyl alcohol, q-tips, paper towels and tooth picks to clean it out. Mine worked very well until the threads gave out on the 510 connector. As an after though to that problem, the 510 connector is actually a two piece design and careful application of a little squeezing, if you can figure out how to get to it, might cure the bad thread problems.
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I'd like to see those photos when you get the chance.
I really wanted to do a step-by-step photo sequence. The camera is fine, but my tablet that is the interface from the camera to the network, has crapped out. I have to install the app on my wife's tablet and then transfer through hers to my network so I can get them posted.
It was a little frustrating because the 510 connector is apparently spot welded into the body and projects well down inside. That projection has to be milled off so the new connector has a thin enough base to be able to get the nut on it. There's still at least 3/16 or 1/4" of metal there, but it was a little rough working down inside the body with the Dremel. I had just ordered a set of burrs off of Amazon because I wanted them handy, not for this specific job. I never thought I'd need them for it.
It was a little frustrating because the 510 connector is apparently spot welded into the body and projects well down inside. That projection has to be milled off so the new connector has a thin enough base to be able to get the nut on it. There's still at least 3/16 or 1/4" of metal there, but it was a little rough working down inside the body with the Dremel. I had just ordered a set of burrs off of Amazon because I wanted them handy, not for this specific job. I never thought I'd need them for it.
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Wow! Did I post my question at exactly the right time or what! Thank-you so much for the detailed description, and you're right, in my case a good clean of the inside contacts might well help - spinning the connector a few times does settle it down, for now at least. But if I'm going in there, I'm tempted do something that will last longer It's great to hear there are no major 'gotchas' in there, which is what was worrying me.
This connector? ... Fat Daddy Vapes 22mm Spring Loaded 510 Connector
I could easily polish the edge of it, but not sure I'm bothered either
It's great to hear there are no major 'gotchas' in there, which is what was worrying me.This connector? ... Fat Daddy Vapes 22mm Spring Loaded 510 Connector
I could easily polish the edge of it, but not sure I'm bothered either
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