itaste VTR
- Thread starter greghemmings
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You may want to clean the contacts in the base as well. A cotton bud with isopropyl alcohol will work down there. If it's not turning on that probably isn't the problem, but it might not hurt just to be safe.
And then a light coat of NO OX ID A-Special Conductive Grease on the contacts may help.
ok so I got it going again and was able to pinpoint where the problem is.....whenever the top button is pressed to check the atty or the top ring is touched at all the display dims and the unit shuts itself off...I think it may be shot...very disappointing for a higher end mod. I may attempt to disassemble it carefully to see if I can troubleshoot it further. Mech mods and egos out for daily use at this point...I miss my VW box baby already
Ok maybe someone can toss a few troubleshooting ideas my way here. I got a newer version vtr with the fixed 510 connection yesterday. I was previously using an svd which had now been designated to backup and my go out mod for use with my 18350s. I'm using 3 aerotanks and 1 protank 3 with aerotank base.
Now my problem. One of the aerotanks will not work on the vtr and it just reads non when I check the ohms. The other 3 work fine on the vtr and the one in question works fine on the svd. I have tried pushing the pin out a little bit for a better connection to no avail. I also tried replacing the head to no avail either. I'm baffled as to why it will not read this one aerotank base that works fine on the svd and my vamo v5.
I tried to just order another replacement bottom but of course they are sold out everywhere. Also I did not try pulling the pin on the vtr as I can't seam to find anything small enough to wedge in there to try and pull it up a bit. Not sure that will help as all the other tanks can be read without even being screwed down all the way. This base does work when I use the air flow controller I have and the extension tube. Not a huge deal but something I'm determined to figureout since it just doesn't make sense to me. Any ideas?
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Now my problem. One of the aerotanks will not work on the vtr and it just reads non when I check the ohms. The other 3 work fine on the vtr and the one in question works fine on the svd. I have tried pushing the pin out a little bit for a better connection to no avail. I also tried replacing the head to no avail either. I'm baffled as to why it will not read this one aerotank base that works fine on the svd and my vamo v5.
I tried to just order another replacement bottom but of course they are sold out everywhere. Also I did not try pulling the pin on the vtr as I can't seam to find anything small enough to wedge in there to try and pull it up a bit. Not sure that will help as all the other tanks can be read without even being screwed down all the way. This base does work when I use the air flow controller I have and the extension tube. Not a huge deal but something I'm determined to figureout since it just doesn't make sense to me. Any ideas?
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OK so I got a vtr. But my 510 connection wheel does not turn like I see in the video reviews
Never mind I found out why it's a fix.
I know it's vv/vw but I'm used to just setting the wattage where I want and have volts automatically adjust. But it appears that I can change both.
You can change/set both, but the setting you last set is the mode it operates in. If you set watts, then you are operating in watts or power mode. If you set volts, then you're operating in voltage mode.
Awesome that's exactly what I wanted to hear. This thing is awesome with my pro tank. I will try the I clear when I get some new juice
I get zero airflow with my protank 3 without an airflow controller. The aerotanks work unbelievable and look great too. My protank 3 with an aerotank base works great but without it I can't even get a pull unless I start to unscrew it a bit.
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Do you find that your aerotank base is kind of noisy compared to the iclear 30. I have an aerotank and I like it but the noise drives me crazy.
Ok so I just got mine today. Appears it is the older version because the 510 connection spins. Is that correct? What is the problem exactly with this version? Vapes great so far, but it's been an hour. Lol. This thing weighs a ton!!!
Thanks.
Thanks.
Yes, you are correct. Unfortunately, after the VTR was released last September by Innokin, a weakness in the design was discovered pertaining to the spinning-wheel 510 connection. It has been postulated by some users that the feature was designed to prevent over-tightening of the tank in the recessed tank slot, but by November it was discovered that the feature, after some use, resulted in grossly incorrect ohm readings by the built-in ohm meter for no apparent reason, which ultimately prevented successful use of the variable wattage setting and allowed only variable voltage use of the VTR. To correct this, further production was redesigned eliminating the spinning 510 connection, instead fixing the wheel as a stationary base for the tank. I do not know if the same wheel was used or if a new wheel was created for this purpose; the new version uses a very similar-looking wheel but it has four air channels and two air holes drilled into it that were apparently not present in the original design (also, of course, it does not spin). You can attest to this yourself from observation, if you compare yours to more recent images of the connection.
I became interested in this issue mid-January and researched it on the web; my findings are included in this thread beginning with post #364: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ussion/480134-itaste-vtr-10.html#post11889648. Take heart in that many users found by cleaning the connection with PGA or rubbing alcohol that the ohm meter can be 're-set", so to speak, allowing for successful use. But I'm sure it has been a disappointment to many as it is a fine instrument with an attractive overall design. I was so discouraged that I confirmed the version I was purchasing with the seller before I completed the transaction. If it is brand new, your warranty should be good for at least three months, if not more, so it might be prudent to discuss it with your seller now, even before it occurs to you. Other users may disagree, but personally I hope to get a few years of successful use from mine, not months. To be fair, there are still many other reasons that even a second generation VTR may malfunction.
PS. -see post #380 for photos: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ussion/480134-itaste-vtr-10.html#post11908421
Damn. Now that's a good response. Thanks. Not what I want to hear, but a thorough response. Thanks for the advise.
Edit: so to clarify, it works fine in vv mode but not vw mode? If so, I'm fine with that. I don't find vw mode 100% accurate anyway depending on juice etc and I fiddle with watts too. It's not a "set it and forget it" thing for me. So that is not a big issue. I do notice, and have seen mentioned, the large center pin. Has anyone had issues with that?
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To my understanding, VV use is not impaired by the issue. The ohm readings may be off, but it doesn't impact the detection of the voltage in use; only VW use relies on the accuracy of the ohm meter to set the voltage to match the wattage. I'm no engineer, however.
I'm not sure what you are referring to as the large center pin. Here's a couple of close-ups of my VTR's 510 connection. Are you referring to the brass-colored sensor in the center of the wheel?
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I've got an air flow controller. Not Aero tank but should work
I don't want to throw water on anyone's parade but...the varying resistance readings produced by the problem with the rotating tank mount do effect operation in both VV and VW modes. The resistance can vary as the mount turns, so if you set it at say 6 volts and the resistance is 2.4 ohms, everything is fine. A slight turn of the tank, accidental as you handle the VTR, can change that resistance to say 3.1 ohms which will make kind of a weak vape.
The best cure I've found IF you experience varying resistance readings is to clean the heck out of the rotating base. Rotating the heck out of it and cleaning it as best you can with isopropyl alcohol and a cotton bud worked for me. It still can read high when the tank is first attached, but after the first use the current flow seems to clean things quite well and the resistance sits rock solid after that.
(to be read at double speed)
Just my opinion, worth what you're paying for it. Your results and mileage may vary. No warranty or guaranty is expressed or implied. The reader expressly agrees to hold the poster harmless and without liability. I am not a doctor, physicist, chemist, engineer or teacher nor do I play any of them on TV. Proceed at your own risk.
The best cure I've found IF you experience varying resistance readings is to clean the heck out of the rotating base. Rotating the heck out of it and cleaning it as best you can with isopropyl alcohol and a cotton bud worked for me. It still can read high when the tank is first attached, but after the first use the current flow seems to clean things quite well and the resistance sits rock solid after that.
(to be read at double speed)
Just my opinion, worth what you're paying for it. Your results and mileage may vary. No warranty or guaranty is expressed or implied. The reader expressly agrees to hold the poster harmless and without liability. I am not a doctor, physicist, chemist, engineer or teacher nor do I play any of them on TV. Proceed at your own risk.
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