Im hoping the Lemo 2 or the Cthulhu wont have the leaking issues so I can have a RTA I can take to work
Join the Army Subasidal tendencies
- Thread starter SissySpike
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Great to hear that it's working well for you
Yup, I've been busy lately. I think I'm playing with too much at the same time so I've started a spreadsheet to keep track of the things I'm trying and how they worked.
I rebuilt the Mutation X a couple of days back with the same dual 28 gauge Ti setup as the first time but used the screwheads on the negative posts to trap the wires. The VaporShark chose to run out of battery power just as I was ready to start vaping it so I switched to the VF ver 3 clone. It's been vaping very well for almost two days now. Temp is still set at 330 F and if I keep the wicks wet it never goes over about 310-320 in use. I don't know if the Kangxin board does refinement like the DNA does, but I had to increase the temp setting to 350 once after is was left overnight, but it went back to normal in about an hour.
I'm still vaping the other MX with Kanthal on the Sigelei at the same 40 watts side by side with the TP'ed setup and so far I prefer the Kanthal setup. Taste is slightly better IMO with Kanthal and TP with Ti is doing nothing for me. I can tell before TP kicks in that I need to drip and the Kanthal setup doesn't ever require me to think about resistance change or possible refinement issues. So far I'm thinking this technology is better used in setups that have less reliable wicking or are set up close to burning juice.
But it's way too early for me to come to any real conclusions about it yet. I find I have to use new hardware for at least a couple of weeks (unless it's really bad
) to get a real handle on it. One thing that I really appreciate from this experience so far is that I know these higher power vapes don't overheat juice. I thought I was safe there, but now I know.
Mine will randomly leak a small amount, but not because it's on its side. I pulled it off and had it sitting in my toolbox for a day and it didn't leak at all. Been running it about 65 watts on average. Cranked it up to 85 last night because the throat hit on my liquid was getting a little weak towards the end on the tank. Lol.I agree it's a pretty good vape. The only complaint I have at the moment with it is if I put it on it's side it leaks. It could be worse than normal because I have the air flow control screws out. The Lemo also leaks a bit on its side, but only a few drops.
But it is a great vape for a tank
That's interesting Spidey. Mine did it when in the car last weekend and now that I think about it, it could have been warming up in the sunlight. Later today I'll lay it on its side for a while here in the house and see what happens.
Oh gawd, 85 watts on this puppy must have one heck of a lot of TH
Actually it really wasn't that bad. I wanted more but at 85 it was already a little hotter vape than I like. I think it's gonna depend more on the nic quality. The stuff I made with the nic from nude nicotine had good TH, but it wasn't overbearing like I get with vape wild's juices (what I have in there now at 60 watts and gonna go down. Lol).That's interesting Spidey. Mine did it when in the car last weekend and now that I think about it, it could have been warming up in the sunlight. Later today I'll lay it on its side for a while here in the house and see what happens.
Oh gawd, 85 watts on this puppy must have one heck of a lot of TH
So I did my first clean of the Ti build in the MX last night and it wasn't too bad. I turned up the temperature on the VF clone to 500 and held the button for a while. The wire didn't glow but it smoked a bit and after about a minute I let off and gently scraped the coils with a micro screwdriver. Very gently
. Crud came off, I repeated it again and this is what I ended up with;
Really ugly coils, but reasonably clean and once I put cotton back in them I was able to space the coils with a couple of dental picks and kinda like what I ended up with.
It's vaping pretty good now on the VF at 40 watts with the temp set at 350 instead of 330 like before. Don't know if the temp change was required because I cleaned the coils or because the VF board changed through the cleaning process.There's a bit less snap-crackle and pop now, but its still vaping very well.
After my very good experience with the Onslaught triple coil build I was wondering about quad coils and decided to try one last night in the Mutation X ver 1. It was fun
I kept trying to figure out how the heck I was going to get all those coils stuffed into the Mutation X and finally decided to just go for it. The air hole configuration seemed to want a setup that was tilted a bit high on the left and low on the right so I sorta went with that.
I used 27 gauge Kanthal coils on a 2.96 mm pin, 7/6 wrap, at a final resistance of 0.38 ohms. Here it is modeled in Steam Engine.
Initial install of coils before dry firing and compression. I should have taken a picture of this before I clipped the wires, it looked like I was cooking spaghetti in there, but I was a bit busy at the time and didn't do it;
Dry fired and cleaned up a bit;
Cap on, looking at the air holes;
Resistance;
And wicked. I tried to keep the outside of the coils open to air. It looked a bit better after I got juice on the wicks and cleaned them up a bit more;
I'm vaping it at 75 watts right now and it's a good aggressive vape, but it's not as good as I thought it could be. I think I may have passed beyond the capability of the Mutation X and I might just be wasting battery power at this point, but that's just a first impression and that might change tomorrow. It can certainly take a bit of time to get to know a setup, specially when it's this different from what I'm used to. It was in any case a good learning experience and I'm glad I did it.
Vape on Subasidal friends
I kept trying to figure out how the heck I was going to get all those coils stuffed into the Mutation X and finally decided to just go for it. The air hole configuration seemed to want a setup that was tilted a bit high on the left and low on the right so I sorta went with that.
I used 27 gauge Kanthal coils on a 2.96 mm pin, 7/6 wrap, at a final resistance of 0.38 ohms. Here it is modeled in Steam Engine.
Initial install of coils before dry firing and compression. I should have taken a picture of this before I clipped the wires, it looked like I was cooking spaghetti in there, but I was a bit busy at the time and didn't do it
;
Dry fired and cleaned up a bit;
Cap on, looking at the air holes;
Resistance;
And wicked. I tried to keep the outside of the coils open to air. It looked a bit better after I got juice on the wicks and cleaned them up a bit more;
I'm vaping it at 75 watts right now and it's a good aggressive vape, but it's not as good as I thought it could be. I think I may have passed beyond the capability of the Mutation X and I might just be wasting battery power at this point, but that's just a first impression and that might change tomorrow. It can certainly take a bit of time to get to know a setup, specially when it's this different from what I'm used to. It was in any case a good learning experience and I'm glad I did it.
Vape on Subasidal friends
Last edited:
Ive tried Quad coils and came to the same conclusion you did there is better vape with dual coils and while fun to play with its not all that.
Check my new toys
I threw a build in the Lemo 2 40/60 juice no flooding or leaking just fluffed the cotton and made kinda covered the deck ive been laying it on its side between vaping no issues so far. I should of took a pic No cotton in the channels. I could see the screws in the deck but the cotton was filling the open part beside the posts not stuffed tight just a good amount of fluffy wick.
Check my new toys
AAAANNND A buddy sent me a Billow and some of his DIY juice I tried the vanilla custard and its bare none the best Ive ever had the billow is working great have a .34 ohm build in it left the air flow screws in since the juice is Max VG its wicking nicely and chucking nice clouds and flavor. Ive never had VG juice so good before This guy is a Master!
Last edited:
Figured out how to maximize the airflow from the billow. Pull the afc screws out completely and use a 510 extension. Lol
I agree so far Buzzz, but I'm still thinking the MX is also not the best device for this. I think there are too many air holes spread over too much of the cap area so I can't concentrate the air on the coils without getting too much air in there. When I run it with dual coils I rarely have more than 3 holes open per side and it's pretty good that way. I've closed it down to 6 per side now with the quad setup, but the air flow is between the coils now. I think I'm going to try pushing the coils a bit closer together sometime and see if that helps.
Good stuff! The Lemo 2 looks like it's a winner
. How are you liking the SX Mini?
Last edited:
Let us know how the Ni build works out for you Bikenstein.
I've got Ti in my slightly modified Lemo 1 at around 0.5 ohms and am quite happy with the vape. It starts making vapor at around 16-17 watts and runs well up to the 40 watts I have in the DNA40. I have the temperature set to 380 F now, which is probably closer to 500 F considering the Ti temperature error and it does kick in sometimes at higher wattage. I'm finding it nice to have TP in this setup at higher watts.
Last edited:
Good IdeaFigured out how to maximize the airflow from the billow. Pull the afc screws out completely and use a 510 extension. Lol
I agree so far Buzzz, but I'm still thinking the MX is also not the best device for this. I think there are too many air holes spread over too much of the cap area so I can't concentrate the air on the coils without getting too much air in there. When I run it with dual coils I rarely have more than 3 holes open per side and it's pretty good that way. I've closed it down to 6 per side now with the quad setup, but the air flow is between the coils now. I think I'm going to try pushing the coils a bit closer together sometime and see if that helps.
Might be time to try a new atty something with wide air slots maybe.
Good stuff! The Lemo 2 looks like it's a winner
So far so good. Its for sure first impression the best Mini box I have so far.
hi guys, sorry I haven't been around much, dealing with some real life issues. The Billow sounds awesome, may have to give it a try.
How are you guys liking the temp control?
How are you guys liking the temp control?
Hay Nancy I havent threw any TI wire in either of the the new tanks I have O made a coil for the Lemo 2 out of Ti but its vaping so well rt now I hate to disturb it!
Hey Nancy, hope all is well IRL with you and yours!
So far for me, as new as I still am with temperature sensing, I think it's great technology. I'm taking my time getting into it, trying to figure things out as best I can as I go.
I have two Mutation X RDAs and ran them side by side for a while, one with Kanthal and the other set up for temp sensing with Ti. The RDAs vape different as expected because the wires are diffent, but both are very good vapes. I am also running a Lemo 1 with Ti. What I'm finding is that you can run temperature sensing in two modes, temperature control and temperature protected.
In TC mode I set a temperature that the coils can achieve with the heat flux of the build and the power you set and the mod generally reduces the power during a drag to maintain coil temperature. I have that situation in the Lemo frequently when running it at 40 watts. I haven't spent enough time with this scenario to know if I like it yet. So far my thought is the DNA40 is not dependable or accurate enough for this to give a stable vape. I have to go back to the VF clone again and see if that's any better. It could also be the Lemo has too many electrical connections that can change resistance slightly and that's throwing things off.
TP mode for me means I set a temperature that the wire only gets to if it's drying out and I control the vape by the watts I set. This is basically the same system I'm used to (and I think all of us are) vaping without temp sensing, but without TP if I let the wire go dry I get a dry hit. TP mode is the situation I'm in with the MX's. I'm finding this is a more dependable vape in that the vape doesn't change much in use, though the DNA40 has drifted far enough a couple of times to make me change the TP setting for a while until things went back to normal. I've been running the Ti coiled MX on the VF clone for a few days now and it's been rock solid.
My DNA40 is a small screen version that doesn't have atty lock.
And that's all I've got
Good to hear the Ni build is working for you Bikenstein
. I think I was predisposed to preferring Ti because of what I read about the difficulty of working with Ni. I only made the one Ni build before switching to Ti after the Ni coil drooped down over time towards the deck. It was probably just the way I set it up and I should have tried to fix it, but I had Ti on hand and switched.I will go back to Ni when I feel ready to do it because as I said before it would be nice to know what temperature I'm really running at. One thing at a time for now though
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
