Katana by POC ~ Show and Tell :)

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lorderos33

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So am I the only one who's tried various forms of genesis attys and been... meh. Always seems to me that the metal wick taints the flavor worse than a carto, and I've never found a coil that was sufficient with 3.7v, genesis or otherwise. I think maybe if it could be taken down to the 1Ω range it would be, but it's not technically a coil until you wrap it twice, which winds up around 1.5 - 2Ω. I've seen vids of the katana with 5 - 7 wraps, so I tried that on the hybrid mini. It put out a big cloud with VG, but for lack of a better word, it felt 'hollow'. It didn't feel like much of a drag, and occasionally prompted an involuntary exhalation. Inhaling certain fumes like acetone or turpentine does something similar. And the taste was hollow as well, bolstered by a metallic overtone.

The kanthal doesn't seem to hold up to the 6.4v of stacked batts, because the spot prior to the beginning of the coil would get too hot. Seems all of the fans of these are using 3.7 IMR anyhow, though. Just an observation there.

I've tried several different techniques for oxidizing both the SS wick and, at someone's suggestion, getting the coil good and blacked as well. Still no dice.

Surely I'm missing something fundamental here...

Yes, very much so. The symptoms you are descibing sound very much like a shorted coil to me and you may not have your mesh properly prepared.

Some of the things to remember are to make sure that there aren't any burrs on the outside of the mesh. I eliminate these by folding 5mm or so of the mesh and then rolling it up so the cut edge is hidden beneath the outside layer of the meshroll (got this idea from scubabatdan).

Next thing to remember is that the mesh needs to be very well oxidized and should be clean before you start. Zen~ posted a neat trick that works extremely well for this. Instead of quenching the mesh in water between the heating steps, quench it in the juice you are going to use. This builds the oxidation layer very well and you end up with a wick that is almost completely broken in before you even start vaping it. You should still do the last step of oxidation (even when quenching with juice) of putting a drop of juice on the mesh and lighting it on fire then letting it burn out. Drop this a few times before you wrap the coil. Also, if you notice that you are having trouble with wicking, you mentioned that you use 100% VG. Try using #325 mesh for, #400 will be too fine and will not supply enough TH and will have a hard time keeping up. Also, before I forget about this... Make sure you are boiling the mesh for a few minutes before rolling it up to make sure there are no oil residues on it from manufacturing. You would think that the torch is sufficient to remove these, but it really is not and I highly recommend boiling first before rolling.

Next tip.... When you wrap your coil, make sure it is tight and touching the mesh all around. You can do this easily by inserting a needle or pin in the mesh and wrapping the coil while it is supported.

Make sure that the wick is not touching the bottom of the tank, pull it up after the coil is wrapped so you have a 1 - 1.5 mm of space. If you can see clear through the tank under the wick, you have enough space there.

Now a really big factor in how the Genisis atty will perform is airflow. Make sure that your air hole is directing air directly at the coil. This will yield maximum flavo and vapor and is the biggest thing I see people get wrong when using Genisis atty's. Sometimes the hole is not in the right place when you get a new mod, don't be afraid to cover the original hole and make a new one (keep it to 1mm or less if you have a small enough drill bit to do this) it is much easier to have to enlarge the hole than to have to fill it and re-drill. Try it and if you feel the need for a bigger hole, go up one drill bit size and try again.


Any heating wire will work, but I have found that the better quality wire you use the better an experience you will have. I personally use 32ga kanthal A-1. I need 4 wraps with this or it is way too hot at 3.7V. 4 coils will measure to around 1.5 ohm with a 2mm wick and it goes down fast from there. Kanthal - D is very popular too, but I stay with A-1 because it is more resistant to building up carbon and can handle higher temperature. I personally dn't like the tast of nichrome and it is not as durable as kanthal but again, to each his own, these are just my preferences :)

If you follow these tips, you should end up with a big smile on your face. The flavor you get from your Genisis should be full and intense and you should not get the metallic taste you are referring to, just good clean flavor and LOTS of vapor :) Also remember that it can take a little while to fully break the coil and mesh in but following the steps I shared here you should cut that time down dramatically.
 

lorderos33

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Wow... sticky worthy.

I have work to do. :)

Let me know how it works out for you. I love my Genni mods and I am 100% sure you will agree they are the best vape bar none when setup right. You will also find that when they are setup right they will literally go for months without needing anything more than a brush and rinse of the mesh/coil and wiping of some condensation from the vapor chamber.

One thing I forgot to mention is that life is a whole lot easier with threaded wire connectors. If you have a hybrid mini, I have a how to floating around here that shows how to convert from silver wire to threaded rod for electrodes.
 

lorderos33

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Hello Everyone--

Here are some pics of the threaded rods and how they are setup for those of you that wanted to se how I did mine. The heatshrink tubing is just thick enough to be snug in the machined holes in the top and bottom caps so it seals the juice tank perfectly. I decided to change the color of my heatshrink to change it up. It used to be clear, but now it's red :)

IMG_0176.jpg

Here is the threaded rod, notice one is longer above and below the threads. This is the lead that connects to the switch. Also notice the 3 washers that go on before the first nut inside the switch housing. This is to raise the switch to the right height.

IMG_0177.jpg

Here is the switch. No wires needed other than the loop to attach to the threaded rod and a small extension added to the center lead on the switch. This center lead will contact the top of the battery directly or if you use the plastic cap with the copper button in the center it will contact that. It is very important that you use something to prevent the wire loop or nuts from touching the center pole of the switch. In my switch I use heat shrink to cover the whole lead then carefully cut off the heatshrink covering the center lead. Electrical tape can be used, but it's not as easy to cut with a knife as the heatshrink is and it is more messy because of the glue.

IMG_0178.JPG

Here is the finished switch housing. You need to be careful that no part of the threaded rod extends past the nut holding the switch in place extends past the switch. If it does, there will be a short because the threaded rod will touch the battery or the brass button and that is not good.

The materials used for this are heatshrink tubing, stainless M2 threaded rod and stainless M2 nuts, and m2 nylon washers as spacers. It is not very difficult to do this mod to the Hybrid, but it does take patience because everything has to be just right inthe switch housing or there will be shorts. Once it is all done though, you should never have any leaking issues again and ou will never loose the connection to the kanthal wires unless you take it apart since the kanthal is pinched between 2 nuts :)

The switch and nuts are not as pretty as they used to be since they have been in use for a long time now, but since they are stainless, they clean up nice and can be polished up back to shiny. I was just too lazy to do this today :)
 

lorderos33

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I will look for these parts and try to put it together next weekend.... Any good suppliers you can reccomend for the parts lorderos ??

I got everything from Amazon.com (i believe the supplier from amazon was smallparts.com). The threaded rod was a little pricey but the nuts and washers were very cheap.
 

erich

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3/8" is bigger than a pencil, so yeah, that's definitely not what you want. lorderos33 can probably give you specifics of what he used, but I would imagine something like these:

(McMaster makes it a pain to link directly to something, but search these two item #s)
McMaster-Carr

rod:
93250A001
nuts: (100 pack)
90480A003

Here's a nice table of bolt (or rod) size to inches:
http://www.engineersedge.com/screw_threads_chart.htm
 

erich

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Note that the rods are sold by the foot, so you would need to cut them. That's actually what the holes in a lot of wire cutters are for. 2-56 are really small, smaller by a third than the 4-40 depicted below. This might mean the cut will be slightly crooked, but should be pretty easy to file off a rounded tip on it to make it look and thread better.

kh507ap746342.jpg
 

sacredgaming

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so i received a katana today from the classy's and got it up and running w/ a .9 ohm dual coil wrap but, my juice must be to thick because it isnt wicking well. Im pretty sure he was using 400 so im going to make a run over to mcmaster-carr and pick up some 325 and i'll let you know what i come up with. So far so good.
 

lorderos33

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lorderos33

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so i received a katana today from the classy's and got it up and running w/ a .9 ohm dual coil wrap but, my juice must be to thick because it isnt wicking well. Im pretty sure he was using 400 so im going to make a run over to mcmaster-carr and pick up some 325 and i'll let you know what i come up with. So far so good.

There are a few other things to try that I have not mentioned yet.

You definitely want to stick with #325 mesh for the thick juice. If you are having trouble with the wick keeping up, try unrolling it and taking a few mm off the width. That will cause the wick to draw juice faster.

Make sure that you have it rolled like a straw, I push a paper clip through to make sure mine are unobstructed. Also, cut the bottom of a wick at an angle to increase the are of wick exposed at the bottom of the wick. This helps alot with slow wicking issues.

Make sure the top cap is on tight. You should notice when you take a drag, that a little bubble will escape from the bottom of the wick. You may actually not see this because you keep your fill screw off but if it were in,place that is what you want to see.

With everything else and this, you should get the wicking issues licked :)
 

UA72Riddle

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Sacred...

I never had any wicking issues personally...but I can add that if you are, take out the fill screw . That does help air to get in to the tank. The rest Lorderros has covered. ;)


But I can also say that the SS mesh will have a hard time keeping up with a coil set up like you have. The liquid demand for that set up will def be better suited for 325 mesh.
 
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