Mark Bugs Bottom Feeding Rebuildable Atomizer (prototype) initial impressions

[rondasherrill]

I heard over on reddit that 32g doesn't last very long and that 34g was better but there's supposed to be a 33g out there that's all the rage right now.

I'm currently using 33ga Kanthal, since I don't have any 34ga. It is actually 33ga Kanthal A, NOT A-1. It does really great. 6 wraps creates a 3ohm coil every single time. 5 wraps is always 2.6 ohms. 4 wraps is 2.2ohms. I am very happy with it, but I think I still want 34ga, so I can get 3ohms out of 5 wraps. In a Mark-T(and probably a Chalice) having more than 5 or 6 wraps gets to be a tight fit.

I am definitely a fan of using Kanthal A instead of A-1. Kanthal A has less aluminum in it.

 

[davelog]

What's A-1 (besides a damn fine steak sauce)? Is that what nichrome is? The 34ga I got was advertised as nichrome.

 

[house mouse]

Deleted.................

 

[rondasherrill]

What's A-1 (besides a damn fine steak sauce)? Is that what nichrome is? The 34ga I got was advertised as nichrome.

It's the type of Kanthal wire. Kanthal is a specific type of Nichrome wire. and A-1 is a specific type of Kanthal. Basically... Kanthal is an alloy of Nickel, Aluminum, Iron, and Chromium. The difference between A and A-1 is how much of each element it has. I prefer Kanthal A because it has the least Aluminum, which is questionable as far as health is concerned when it gets heated to high temps.

EDIT: Can you tell I've done my homework on all this? LOL

EDIT: Here is a post describing the various types of Kanthal: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...erials-safe-vs-dangerous-207.html#post6820997

You will notice that Kanthal D has even less Al than Kanthal A, but I think A has a better taste.

 

[Roxxette]

Deleted so thread keeps going, sorry to Clyde and the other members looking.

 

[house mouse]

Deleted,sorry to all.

 

[classwife]

Stop this now.

 

[Keekers]

It's the type of Kanthal wire. Kanthal is a specific type of Nichrome wire. and A-1 is a specific type of Kanthal. Basically... Kanthal is an alloy of Nickel, Aluminum, Iron, and Chromium. The difference between A and A-1 is how much of each element it has. I prefer Kanthal A because it has the least Aluminum, which is questionable as far as health is concerned when it gets heated to high temps.

EDIT: Can you tell I've done my homework on all this? LOL

EDIT: Here is a post describing the various types of Kanthal: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...erials-safe-vs-dangerous-207.html#post6820997

You will notice that Kanthal D has even less Al than Kanthal A, but I think A has a better taste.

Where do you buy your wire from?


I still haven't bought anything yet....I sure hope the rebuildable comes with a pre-wrapped coil to begin!

 

[Keekers]

Thanks to another ECF member I saw this chart. I have no idea what to do with it but it's a stepping stone.

 

[rondasherrill]

Where do you buy your wire from?


I still haven't bought anything yet....I sure hope the rebuildable comes with a pre-wrapped coil to begin!

I got lucky and got a 200ft roll of 33ga Kanthal A, and a 100ft roll of 32ga Kanthal A-1(the roll I told you about) on eBay during one of the short stints of time when the seller had it in stock. However, I think I saw a few e-cig websites starting to carry it...

I also suggest, if you are worried about your wick rolling ability, to get some of this: Mark-T Infinity Atomiser Element - Short Length - Cloud 9 Vaping or this: Mark-T Infinity Atomiser Element - Long Length - Cloud 9 Vaping It comes from the UK, but I got my Mark-T and extra pre-rolled wick/coil in just one week. Some of that will get you vaping, while you practice making your own.

 

[Roxxette]

Keekers on buy the seller "coinswiesiek" is well known around here, good price and ships fast but im afraid hes on vacation atm if im correct, you can send him a msg and he will reply fast.

http://myworld.ebay.com/coinswiesiek/

 

[Roxxette]

Ops i meant Ebay lol

 

[house mouse]

Could someone tell me how you actually meter your coil to know what ohms you have? Where do you place your multimeter leads for the testing? That confuses me.

 

[Justice]

Could someone tell me how you actually meter your coil to know what ohms you have? Where do you place your multimeter leads for the testing? That confuses me.

I'd test the same as any other atty. positive and negative posts. But you could test on either end of the kanthal wire. At where it is held by the screws.

 

[house mouse]

I'd test the same as any other atty. positive and negative posts. But you could test on either end of the kanthal wire. At where it is held by the screws.

So are the post themselves labeled positive and negative? I think that's where I'm confusing myself. How do I know which is which? Hopefully It will be easier to figure out once I have it in my hand.

 

[Justice]

So are the post themselves labeled positive and negative? I think that's where I'm confusing myself. How do I know which is which? Hopefully It will be easier to figure out once I have it in my hand.

It's irrelevant whether they be pos or neg. just put tester probes on either side it will read the same either way. It's not testing voltage just resistance.

 

[house mouse]

It's irrelevant whether they be pos or neg. just put tester probes on either side it will read the same either way. It's not testing voltage just resistance.

Ahh, the light bulb moment. Got it. Thanks!!!

 

[pianoguy]

So are the post themselves labeled positive and negative? I think that's where I'm confusing myself. How do I know which is which? Hopefully It will be easier to figure out once I have it in my hand.

I'd seen this gizmo mentioned recently, so I just got one - easier than putzing with a multi-meter for cartos and atty's:

Cartomizer and Atomizer Ohm Meter [1074_Ohm_Meter] : L Js E-Smokes, Electronic Cigarettes

 

[Xaria]

So when making the coils for these. You give it extra wire so it sits on the floor of base, with coils in contact with base? Or do you keep it slightly raised off the base? Gurrsh, hope that made sense.

In looking back in this thread, Clyde mentioned that juice gets sucked back into the REO bottle, causing some discoloration. I wonder if this is something that might of got tweaked. Is this something that happens with our ready made attys?

None the less, I am excited and hope we get our shipping confirmations this week.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[davelog]

So when making the coils for these. You give it extra wire so it sits on the floor of base, with coils in contact with base? Or do you keep it slightly raised off the base? Gurrsh, hope that made sense.

In looking back in this thread, Clyde mentioned that juice gets sucked back into the REO bottle, causing some discoloration. I wonder if this is something that might of got tweaked. Is this something that happens with our ready made attys?

None the less, I am excited and hope we get our shipping confirmations this week.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

I'm keen to see how that works myself - I have read that the coils sit on the bottom of the chamber, so I assume there's a coating (anodization, maybe?) on that surface that makes it non-conductive.