I need dictionary to understand what u guys say sometimes 
geez spik mor sipli eglis....I gugle everi word
geez spik mor sipli eglis....I gugle everi word Max flavor out of MTL RTA?
- Thread starter MichaellMcCoyy
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I was spacing my coils using a screw cause pulling the coil and pressing again didn't seem so good to me stretching it....but then a vape store owner was like laughing at me when I said that and told me it's ok just pull and push it.....Soo if I understand correctly it's good to go back to my screw method for spacing???
I knoh. Filing the lead ends is a b….
Good luck.
p.s. Serious…my 2-blade ss min pen knife is indispensable. It's dull and perfect for eyeball spacing and offset when I get too laz to mic stuff. Hey, it happens. The old SAK is grand but way too cumbersome for my clumsy.
Yes I was actually looking at a couple RDA/RDTA’s when I was focusing on flavor, but I don’t think a new atomizer will solve my current problem. I’ll have to figure out how to get a good vape on it first and then likely have this same problem. It happens on my MD, Ares 2, and Pioneer lol. But I will eventually get an RDTA
I said it once and I will say it again
That pic didn't seem like the coil that would lose flavour even tho it was fast to become dark...
I can say tho that myself at some point I started go simple in coil and started find my ways to get a consistent wicking...
Even tho my wicking method was consistent I still saw improvement to the way my vape works in every rewick cause it gets better and better...and I was like wow why it's sooooo good now...
I had also troubles at first like yours with wicks get gunked and dark very fast but every time wicking gets better and it's not the case anymore.....also I am more chilled now and don't rush to check how it works and chainvape like no tomorrow
I was Soo rushed to see the results that end up vaping non stop just to see if it would got dark that I ended up make it dark cause of chainvaping minutes straight or something
Long story short all gonna be fine I am sure u will get there....tooooo soon too much to learn...to many wires and attys and wicks and mod settings
Yooo Michael....u gonna make it
I do tend to chain vape occasionally lol, but not long pulls, rarely over 3 seconds with maybe 5 seconds in between hits. I’m always scared the coil will get too hot.
Today I built a 2.5ID 30 gauge coil at about 12:00 my time. It’s currently 6 and I haven’t replaced the coil yet. (Almost 2 full tanks)
I cut the rayon shorter, left it a little fatter, and am vaping at 14 watts which is really hot according to steam engine (320 mW / mm^2) but it doesn’t feel hot.
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Good thinin Michael. And you're doin great for the length of time you've been vapin.
Spacers require a lot of attention. Just the opposite of common knowledge. Why I've encouraged Kanthal contacts for new vapers.
More vapor, more flavor.
I like @Mordacai's suggestion goin to 27 AWG. More precise closer spread as well to help focus heat relative to gauge of wick (equiv of raising the dial on the stove, through concentration). You get dissipation losses as you spread winds, particularly if thin. Although thicker and dropping resistance somewhat, you're adding contact surface area. The additional effective vaporization may often produce a cooler vape even at the cost of adding slightly more power/watts.
Also mindful of inbalanced strain when you spread. If residual strain is greater for inside turns, resistence will be slightly lower at center. You might try separating turns center-out (rather than pulling from ends). A small scissors or knife using the sharp side of the blade to encourage turn separation (careful not to mar wire). End with the fat side of the blade, a known width, for the final measure as useful for comparing build specs (spacing).
Concentration and wetted contact surface area.
A few of my own considerations for stabilizing these critters.
Good luck.
Thank you, that makes sense. I’ll give spacing from the center out a try.
I do think I get uneven strain on my coils because some turns will be perfectly vertical, and others will be more angled. Until today, I never really tried to fix it (I usually pulled it apart and made them all angled). I noticed it while replacing a coil at lunch and thought it was odd, so I took more care to get them all wrapped without an angle, and perfectly spaced.
This coil has been working well for me today, but I also made some other changes as well. That was part of my problem in the beginning - tweaking many things and trying to figure out what made a change for the best.
The Ares 2 comes with a screw type coiling rod, but they suggest tightening up the spacing afterwards, so I assume it’s perfectly okay.
A 6.5 wrap 27 AWG coil has less mass than your usual 9.5 wrap 28 AWG one, this means that it will heat and cool more rapidly.
Plus a 6.5 wrap coil would fit the build deck much better as the majority of the coil will be over the airflow, which will effectively cool it. As your 9.5 wrap I'd guess was lucky if it was getting 50% efficiency, due to a large majority being outside the airflow and that you most certainly do not want to happen.
But we're all the same when it comes to RBA's, every time you get hold of a new one you end up having to try various ideas to get the vape to your liking.
And there's mass, surface area, how many wraps may fit and resistance to juggle in various different ways.
If you really wanted you could ask folks if they could spare a small quantity of 10cm lengths of wire @MichaellMcCoyy and send them to you via snail mail, I'm sure that for some of us you'd be doing us a favour.
And an interrelated question, Temco's Titanium wire is okay to use?
Just thinking out loud there as it's marked up a resistance and non resistance, and I'm thinking that it may just be listed differently now because of PMTA or something. As I find it highly doubtful that they would completely alter the composition of it, but you never know.
Plus a 6.5 wrap coil would fit the build deck much better as the majority of the coil will be over the airflow, which will effectively cool it. As your 9.5 wrap I'd guess was lucky if it was getting 50% efficiency, due to a large majority being outside the airflow and that you most certainly do not want to happen.
But we're all the same when it comes to RBA's, every time you get hold of a new one you end up having to try various ideas to get the vape to your liking.
And there's mass, surface area, how many wraps may fit and resistance to juggle in various different ways.
If you really wanted you could ask folks if they could spare a small quantity of 10cm lengths of wire @MichaellMcCoyy and send them to you via snail mail, I'm sure that for some of us you'd be doing us a favour.
And an interrelated question, Temco's Titanium wire is okay to use?
Just thinking out loud there as it's marked up a resistance and non resistance, and I'm thinking that it may just be listed differently now because of PMTA or something. As I find it highly doubtful that they would completely alter the composition of it, but you never know.
Eh, wire is so cheap I don’t mind buying a spool. Plus, if it works, then I’d probably spend some time wrapping 20+ coils for my stash lol. AFAIK (from Amazon reviews) Temco titanium surgical grade 1 resistance wire is TC vapable only (dry burn a very dull red in a dark room to prevent titanium dioxide)
https://www.amazon.com/TEMCo-Titanium-Gauge-Surgical-Resistance/dp/B01AV6QZ0G
That's not right @MichaellMcCoyy, as you can't dry burn Titanium. And yes of course, only use TC.
But I have heard of folks using Titanium coils and mech mods, true story.
But the coil I had in mind I had setup in the steam-engine.org calculators as SS316L, give me a while and I'll see what I can come up with for Ti.
But I have heard of folks using Titanium coils and mech mods, true story.
But the coil I had in mind I had setup in the steam-engine.org calculators as SS316L, give me a while and I'll see what I can come up with for Ti.
That's great news.
I wouldn't get too hung up on what steam engine says is hot or whatever. Same with coil mass etc.. Don't get lost in all the tech stuff. You don't need "all that" now.
Right now you are just trying to get your gear vaping nicely. As with TC don't try to add in SE mumbo jumbo. Once you get things working properly you can always go back to make improvements.
SE tech theory is great, however if it "says" ABC is best but you prefer XYZ, always go with XYZ. And I say that with great respect to others who feel differently.
If SE says such and such wire is hot at X ohms but you feel it works best for you, go with that. If you like a 28g wire at whatever ohms then that is what you like. End of story.
In the end it all comes down to what works Best for You. What works for me doesn't work for others. What works for them doesn't work for everyone. Only you can find your happy place.
Encourage everyone I train to try it all. There is no unicorn. I introduced the strain wind method to allow folks to easily generate a repeatable coil. We all need a steady baseline for comparison. Using consistent technique gets us there.
Also thought to mention re ur concerns on Kanthal: KA1 exudes an insulating ceramic layer as alumina ceramic forms on the surface with repeated firing. Low voltage dry pulsing of a proper tensioned wind seems to accelerate that process in a uniform way. Ceramic is one of the most neutral materials where taste is involved. One of the reasons many moved away from Nichrome to KA1. However if alumina is slow to evolve on the wind or irregular, worn or blemished I could see the possibility. I'm flavor sensitive so like you this was a big concern for me as well when I was trying to stay quit. Oxidation or production of an insulation layer base is what really makes contact coils shine with very stable often perfect end-to-end heat output.
The vape is only as good as the wind.
Good luck M.
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That's great news.
I wouldn't get too hung up on what steam engine says is hot or whatever. Same with coil mass etc.. Don't get lost in all the tech stuff. You don't need "all that" now.
Right now you are just trying to get your gear vaping nicely. As with TC don't try to add in SE mumbo jumbo. Once you get things working properly you can always go back to make improvements.
SE tech theory is great, however if it "says" ABC is best but you prefer XYZ, always go with XYZ. And I say that with great respect to others who feel differently.
If SE says such and such wire is hot at X ohms but you feel it works best for you, go with that. If you like a 28g wire at whatever ohms then that is what you like. End of story.
In the end it all comes down to what works Best for You. What works for me doesn't work for others. What works for them doesn't work for everyone. Only you can find your happy place.
I'd agree with you that KISS applies. But when you learn the muscle memory necessary to make a wind twice, the road is wide open.
Consider, what happens if you can't?
Good luck.
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Just at a small party CD delivering some custom built squonks, a single and dual, same wind, on Vandy Pulse's. A Mass Mods G.R. 1 and Vandy Pulse X (dual) for the RDA's…
25AWG 7/7 2.8mmØ=.836Ω 22.1W 160 mW/mm² (or roughly 7/64" bit)
I've gone fonder of slightly thicker wire for low watt flavor builds for the advantage of wetted contact area. Power output at 4.2v is about your target. A dense comfortably warm output.
I've written elsewhere on pulsing technique. This is a practiced art, made easier with consistent winds.
Good luck.
With different wicking I am able to get longer times between changes so I think that’s my problem. I also tightened up my coils and am more careful to get them uniform.
Now, another issue I have is freebase vs nic salts lol. Am I able to vape them at the same wattage and get similar results if they’re both 70/30, or do I need to increase watts for 3mg freebase
Now, another issue I have is freebase vs nic salts lol. Am I able to vape them at the same wattage and get similar results if they’re both 70/30, or do I need to increase watts for 3mg freebase
Congrats Michael. I'm doin same today on six builds. Ever tightening it up.
I vape at 3mg roughly to be able to produce more vapor (or vapor density) and more frequently, like chaining, without overdoing the nic. You may find it desirable (or necessary for you) as you drop nic to increase power slightly, or build at a bit more power. In other words, find a balance using nic and power somewhere in between. This may help you handle the nic drop.
Nice weekend and good luck M.
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