Max flavor out of MTL RTA?

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MichaellMcCoyy

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Sep 26, 2020
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As daft as it sounds @MichaellMcCoyy, the coil idea I listed would be worth a try.

It has less mass and heat capacity than your 9.5 wrap 28 AWG one, and I think that may most certainly be causing issues. And causing the blackening of your coil and wicking to accelerate.

But all you were able to assimilate was that it helps with coiling and wicking, which was an extra point. Not the most important one of cooling capacity of rta and coil mass.

I’ve tried from .5 - 1 ohm on the 28 ga, as well as 30/32 gauge both twisted and round (.6ish - 1.5ish). I’ve also tried 26gauge kanthal around 1 ohm I believe, and 32 x 2 (=) + 38ga Vandy vape superfine MTL fused Clapton SS316L

All with the same results

I will order some 27 though (probably from a brand other than my usual - master wire supply) if you think it will be different
 
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ShowMeTwice

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No preheat as far as I’m aware. Using the basic power mode on aegis mini.
There is no setting for preheat on the Aegis mini. None on the Solo either. And to my knowledge none on any of the Aegis line.

Back when I used 28g wire with lower wattages I never experienced what you are. I'm fairly confident 28g wire isn't the issue running at 9 watts unless it's crappy wire. Have you considered buying some decent wire from Temco, WireOptim or Advanced vape Supply. All three sell very high quality wire.

I totally agree with @Seiggy, try some unflavored juice and see what happens. If unflavored works ok then you know your juices are the problem.

Out of curiosity have you tried other mods? I haven't reread all 7 pages so I'm sorry if you tried that already. Just trying to help.
 
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MichaellMcCoyy

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There is no setting for preheat on the Aegis mini. None on the Solo either. And to my knowledge none on any of the Aegis line.

Back when I used 28g wire with lower wattages I never experienced what you are. I'm fairly confident 28g wire isn't the issue running at 9 watts unless it's crappy wire. Have you considered buying some decent wire from Temco, WireOptim or Advanced Vape Supply. All three sell very high quality wire.

I totally agree with @Seiggy, try some unflavored juice and see what happens. If unflavored works ok then you know your juices are the problem.

Out of curiosity have you tried other mods? I haven't reread all 7 pages so I'm sorry if you tried that already. Just trying to help.

I don’t think it’s the wire since I’ve tried other brands and get the same results. I don’t have any unflavored, but I do have some minimally sweetened juices (which are the ones I’ve been testing with) from cloudberry vapors.

I only have the Aegis Mini, but my wife just got me a Dovpo Odin Mini 75C for my birthday in a couple days, so I’ll be able to test it with that soon.


Thank you for the reply!
 

ShowMeTwice

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I’ve been watching Pioneer wicking videos pretty much all day and I’ve noticed that nobody cuts the wick where I do (at the edge of the base) so I think mine may be a little long. Next wick will be shorter, and I’ll report back
Here are two videos for the Pioneer. Both of these guys are experienced with building and wicking.

Watch this one from 6:00 for wicking. Note how he is trimming from the shoulders of each wick tail before tucking them in.


Watch it from 7:10 for how he wicks it.
 
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ShowMeTwice

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@MichaellMcCoyy, I was looking at the Pioneer build deck and you don't want your wick tails any longer than the bottoms of the juice wells (or wicking channels). The ends of your wick tails should just be touching the bottoms of the wells.

If you are using a 3mm ID coil I would trim some cotton from each tail. With a 2.5mm ID coil you might not have to trim any cotton from your wick tails.
 
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Mordacai

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@MichaellMcCoyy, I'm just thinking of the physics of it all as well as other aspects.

But a 6.5 wrap 27 AWG does just drop down a little but not a lot from what you're usual 28 AWG one, and going over the optimal mass for an atomiser will generate excess heat that can then cook your juice. And that's one of the things that I think is happening.

And here's some good places to pick good quality wire up from at decent prices.

Zivipf.de

https://temcoindustrial.com
 
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MichaellMcCoyy

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@MichaellMcCoyy, I was looking at the Pioneer build deck and you don't want your wick tails any longer than the bottoms of the juice wells (or wicking channels). The ends of your wick tails should just be touching the bottoms of the wells.

If you are using a 3mm ID coil I would trim some cotton from each tail. With a 2.5mm ID coil you might not have to trim any cotton from your wick tails.

Welp.. That’s how I usually wick my cotton (same as the videos). Thanks for the time stamps, I appreciate it. I usually do 2.5 but I tried 3.0 and even 2.0 as well as all of the different airflow pins (Best results with the 1.2).

I generally thin them a bit after cutting, as opposed to before like the second guy did, but I doubt that makes a difference. With rayon I cut them from the end of the coil (shoulder?) down to make kind of a “V”

The instructions say to use a “micro” coil which I had to look up, and apparently that’s <= 2.0mm. Someone else suggested to use 2.0ID with 1.2 airflow - It was just a little too tight for me. The included coils were also 2.5 so idk.
 

MichaellMcCoyy

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Sep 26, 2020
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@MichaellMcCoyy, I'm just thinking of the physics of it all as well as other aspects.

But a 6.5 wrap 27 AWG does just drop down a little bu not a lot from what you're usual 28 AWG one, and going over the optimal mass for an atomiser will generate excess heat that can then cook your juice. And that's one of the things that I think is happening.

And here's some good places to pick good quality wire up from at decent prices.

Zivipf.de

https://temcoindustrial.com

yeah I had planned on ordering the 30/32 from Temco on Amazon as it was only a couple dollars more, but I was getting the same results with the claptons so I figured it wasn’t the brand of wire.

For < $10 I might as well give 27 a shot lol, pretty much exhausting all my options
 

MichaellMcCoyy

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Sep 26, 2020
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There is no setting for preheat on the Aegis mini. None on the Solo either. And to my knowledge none on any of the Aegis line.

Back when I used 28g wire with lower wattages I never experienced what you are. I'm fairly confident 28g wire isn't the issue running at 9 watts unless it's crappy wire. Have you considered buying some decent wire from Temco, WireOptim or Advanced Vape Supply. All three sell very high quality wire.

I totally agree with @Seiggy, try some unflavored juice and see what happens. If unflavored works ok then you know your juices are the problem.

Out of curiosity have you tried other mods? I haven't reread all 7 pages so I'm sorry if you tried that already. Just trying to help.


Just to clarify I am running 28 ga 1.04ohms right now at 20 watts not 9
 

Superuser187

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Yeah I guess also must be the juice or maybe extreme chainvaping like a boss can cause this even if it's low wattages???? I don't know but pros here may have experienced that
:vapor::vapor::vapor::vapor::vapor::vapor::vapor::vapor::vapor::vapor:

I have seen tho my wicking to cause issues similar to that to me in past...can be many things I guess...time will tell :p
 
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Mordacai

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There's always Temperature Coefficient and Titanium if you want to cover all the bases, as that's weird to use because of its low mass.

But one thing that I've learned with using Rayon is that the length of your tails is shorter than if you used cotton.

I mean I had a hell of a time getting a Taifun GT IV clone to work with Rayon, and every build I saw used Cotton. So for a while I was getting nowhere fast to get it to work in TC well at all.

So I just had to think about things and just try adjusting things until I stumbled across the goldilocks zone, and now I know where it is and can get within it.

Oh, and Sucralose kills coils and wicking. Been using some for DIY experimentation and even at 0.25% you're getting noticable gunking within a day, something that you don't get happening with Ethyl Maltol.
 

MichaellMcCoyy

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Sep 26, 2020
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There's always Temperature Coefficient and Titanium if you want to cover all the bases, as that's weird to use because of its low mass.

But one thing that I've learned with using Rayon is that the length of your tails is shorter than if you used cotton.

I mean I had a hell of a time getting a Taifun GT IV clone to work with Rayon, and every build I saw used Cotton. So for a while I was getting nowhere fast to get it to work in TC well at all.

So I just had to think about things and just try adjusting things until I stumbled across the goldilocks zone, and now I know where it is and can get within it.

Oh, and Sucralose kills coils and wicking. Been using some for DIY experimentation and even at 0.25% you're getting noticable gunking within a day, something that you don't get happening with Ethyl Maltol.

I just don’t understand how even the sweetest juices could destroy my coil within 2ml. The absolute sweetest juice I have I used to use in my novo 2 for at least 2 days of 4-5 refills a day so like 20ml on a bad pod... Those are also mesh, though...

It’s super confusing and makes me feel like I’m fighting an uphill battle that I’m trying to win by throwing money at it lol (which is okay, as long as I can eventually learn from it, and hopefully help others).

My wife thinks I’m insane because I spend my lunch breaks rebuilding/rewicking, and then come home after work and do the same thing every couple hours lol.

It’s gotta be my wicking, but from what I see, it looks good... I will obviously keep at it until it’s resolved. Maybe tomorrow I’ll post some step by step photos of a build/wick and someone will spot something

I really don’t think it’s the juice. This cloudberry stuff is very light on flavor and has no sweetness to it. I have no idea what ingredients he uses but Reddit raves about it. I also have a really clear bottle of juice from freeman that I use also, just because it’s so clear.

Could potentially be the coil gauge as you suggested, so time will tell on that front.

Something about using titanium is off putting to me for some reason - although I was weary about NI80 and loved the flavor from the coils that came with this.

I eventually plan on moving to strictly TC, but there’s no sense in adding the extra headache of dialing it in if I can’t even get wattage mode to work.

Super long winded and scattered reply, sorry lol
 

Mordacai

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As long as you only use Titanium in TC mode you're fine.

But it does allow you to use some interesting heavier gauges compared to other metals.

The only thing that is confusing me at the moment though is Temco's non resistance Titanium and Nickel (Ni200) wire, but aren't they resistance wire?

And another atomiser that may interest you that comes to mind is Cthulhu Mods Mulan RDTA, as RDTA's are considerably easier to work with as they're basically an RDA with a large reservoir and the Mulan can be used with a Squonk mod so that they can be used for much longer. As when the reservoir runs low you just refill by pressing the bottle, button or lever.

And you should see what a lot of us have accumulated over time in the search of a good vape, I mean some of us could quite easily set up a vape shop.
 
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Superuser187

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I said it once and I will say it again :p
That pic didn't seem like the coil that would lose flavour even tho it was fast to become dark...
I can say tho that myself at some point I started go simple in coil and started find my ways to get a consistent wicking...
Even tho my wicking method was consistent I still saw improvement to the way my vape works in every rewick cause it gets better and better...and I was like wow why it's sooooo good now... :p

I had also troubles at first like yours with wicks get gunked and dark very fast but every time wicking gets better and it's not the case anymore.....also I am more chilled now and don't rush to check how it works and chainvape like no tomorrow :p
I was Soo rushed to see the results that end up vaping non stop just to see if it would got dark that I ended up make it dark cause of chainvaping minutes straight or something :p
Long story short all gonna be fine I am sure u will get there....tooooo soon too much to learn...to many wires and attys and wicks and mod settings
Yooo Michael....u gonna make it
 
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MacTechVpr

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…I eventually plan on moving to strictly TC, but there’s no sense in adding the extra headache of dialing it in if I can’t even get wattage mode to work.

Good thinin Michael. And you're doin great for the length of time you've been vapin.

Spacers require a lot of attention. Just the opposite of common knowledge. Why I've encouraged Kanthal contacts for new vapers.

More vapor, more flavor.

I like @Mordacai's suggestion goin to 27 AWG. More precise closer spread as well to help focus heat relative to gauge of wick (equiv of raising the dial on the stove, through concentration). You get dissipation losses as you spread winds, particularly if thin. Although thicker and dropping resistance somewhat, you're adding contact surface area. The additional effective vaporization may often produce a cooler vape even at the cost of adding slightly more power/watts.

Also mindful of inbalanced strain when you spread. If residual strain is greater for inside turns, resistence will be slightly lower at center. You might try separating turns center-out (rather than pulling from ends). A small scissors or knife using the sharp side of the blade to encourage turn separation (careful not to mar wire). End with the fat side of the blade, a known width, for the final measure as useful for comparing build specs (spacing).

Concentration and wetted contact surface area.

A few of my own considerations for stabilizing these critters.

Good luck. :)
 
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