Micro Coil for the RBA on your REO

[darkzero]

Would the spool size really matter so long as the spindle will fit through the spool?

Only the width of the spool would matter. The Kanthal spools from Temco will fit fine. Below is a pic of one next to a fishing line spool.

Not sure about you guys but leaving the Kanthal spools untensioned drives me crazy! As in if you let go of the wire it unravels because of the spring in the wire. I drill 3 extra holes on my spools. I unravel 3 hole lengths, cut, then mount back in a hole.

 

[pdib]

Same here, I hate waiting for coils to heat up. In general I find 27 ga K to be ideal for the .8-.9Ω range. I personally won't use 27 ga for anything over 1.0Ω.

The 27 ga coil I currently have on my Grand measures .98Ω. It heats up pretty quick but I think that's cause my Grand has an internal resistance of .06Ω. I my Mini 2.1 I went back to 28 & 30 ga. I tried a 27 ga coil that was just under 1Ω & it took a bit of time to heat up. But that's mainly probably cause my Mini is double the internal resistance of my Grand (I hope I can improve on that).

Hey Dizzie, someone said something the other day that got me wondering. What do you think?

dhomes was REO shopping and he said that he would bet the tumbled raw would have less internal (?) resistance / voltage loss than the painted and anodized units. I figure that could only matter where the 510 neg is attached to the REO body. Anyway, ever since then, I can't shake the subjective impression that my tumbled hits harder than my black wrinkle. (I don't care, cause I know how to tighten a coil ID or skip a wrap or drop a gauge; just curious)

 

[pdib]

Only the width of the spool would matter. The Kanthal spools from Temco will fit fine. Below is a pic of one next to a fishing line spool.

Not sure about you guys but leaving the Kanthal spools untensioned drives me crazy! As in if you let go of the wire it unravels because of the spring in the wire. I drill 3 extra holes on my spools. I unravel 3 hole lengths, cut, then mount back in a hole.

just a tab of blue tape here

 

[darkzero]

Hey Dizzie, someone said something the other day that got me wondering. What do you think?

dhomes was REO shopping and he said that he would bet the tumbled raw would have less internal (?) resistance / voltage loss than the painted and anodized units. I figure that could only matter where the 510 neg is attached to the REO body. Anyway, ever since then, I can't shake the subjective impression that my tumbled hits harder than my black wrinkle. (I don't care, cause I know how to tighten a coil ID or skip a wrap or drop a gauge; just curious)

IMHO not necessarily but I won't disagree with that theory. The 510 connection is pressed in as you know. I don't know but I would think that rob masks that hole off for painting/anodizing. I'm not sure what the actual 510 connection looks like but if it being pressed in it must have knurling like most other common press fit fittings. The knurling (splines) would dig into the body making a great connection.

Now at the neg spring a raw body Reo might have the advantage. On my black wrinkles the ground path is made through the screw at the countersink head. The counter sink hole is the only exposed area of aluminum. I thought about removing paint so that the entire plate would sit on bare aluminum. But Rob didn't see a need to do that & at this point neither do I.

My Grand has an internal resistance of .06Ω. The only other mods I have are two cheap tubes smok, a Natural & a Magneto, measured .06Ω & .12Ω. My Mini 2.1 is almost double what my Grand is measuring just over .11Ω. I noticed that it started not hitting as great as it used it & it wasn't the firing pin. That's when I decided to check & was surprised it was that high. It's a black wrinkle too but I've narrowed down the high resistance to be at the 510 center connection & firing pin, not through the body. I took the connection apart, cleaned it all up & there was no difference. I ordered a rebuild kit hoping it will change that.

I am curious if it would be lower on a raw. I've always liked tumbled/stonewashed finishes so maybe I will order one someday & see for myself. I just ordered another Grand but it's painted too.

I'll do some more measuring on my Mini when I rebuild it.

 

[pdib]

IMHO not necessarily but I won't disagree with that theory. The 510 connection is pressed in as you know. I don't know but I would think that rob masks that hole off for painting/anodizing. I'm not sure what the actual 510 connection looks like but if it being pressed in it must have knurling like most other common press fit fittings. The knurling (splines) would dig into the body making a great connection.

Now at the neg spring a raw body Reo might have the advantage. On my black wrinkles the ground path is made through the screw at the countersink head. The counter sink hole is the only exposed area of aluminum. I thought about removing paint so that the entire plate would sit on bare aluminum. But Rob didn't see a need to do that & at this point neither do I.

My Grand has an internal resistance of .06Ω. The only other mods I have are two cheap tubes Smok, a Natural & a Magneto. Both measured .02Ω. My Mini 2.1 is almost double what my Grand is measuring just over 1.1Ω. I noticed that it started not hitting as great as it used it & it wasn't the firing pin. That's when I decided to check & was surprised it was that high. It's a black wrinkle too but I've narrowed down the high resistance to be at the 510 center connection & firing pin, not through the body. I took the connection apart, cleaned it all up & there was no difference. I ordered a rebuild kit hoping it will change that.

I am curious if it would be lower on a raw. I've always liked tumbled/stonewashed finishes so maybe I will order one someday & see for myself. I just ordered another Grand but it's painted too.

I'll do some more measuring on my Mini when I rebuild it.

Thanks. Yeah, I've never seen how the 510 attaches to the body. That's why I wondered about that joint. I always figured the screw at the spring was plenty. there's actually a lot of metal there. The screw is small, but the surface area of it is actually more than most contacts have. Maybe, if I feel like experimenting, I'll slip something under the base of the spring plate and see if there's a difference. (much easier, or less commitment at least, than sanding at a painted one)


Like I said, tho, this is all just a-muse-ment.

 

[darkzero]

Thanks. Yeah, I've never seen how the 510 attaches to the body. That's why I wondered about that joint. I always figured the screw at the spring was plenty. there's actually a lot of metal there. The screw is small, but the surface area of it is actually more than most contacts have. Maybe, if I feel like experimenting, I'll slip something under the base of the spring plate and see if there's a difference. (much easier, or less commitment at least, than sanding at a painted one)


Like I said, tho, this is all just a-muse-ment.

Yup, just more tinkering, unnecessary too probably, but it's in our blood.....can't ever leave well enough alone.

I even cleaned the hell out out of the countersink screw & it's contact surface, applied progold too. No difference.

The 510 connection is plated brass, probably nickel plate. I read how people were sanding off the plated connections on the Natural. I don't think the plating on the 510 causes that much difference.

For my Mini I don't see why it's internal resistance would be much different than my Grand but it's almost double. .1Ω is not bad & I'm not worried about it but just curious. If I find anything worth mentioning I'll report back.

EDIT: Screwed up the numbers on my previous post, fixed them. Tired, was a long day.

I also measured pretty much no resistance from the 510 ground to the negative spring plate so I would say no, I doubt a raw body would have lower internal resistance over a painted/anodized body.

 

[liveone]

27g Kanthal at just a hair under 1 ohm.

Tasting pretty decent but split 5 bottles of wine with an old friend and had a lot of spicy food so the final verdict has to wait till late morning.

 

[hubseven]

28g wire, 10wraps, wrapped around 5/64" drill bit, cotton wick, 1.4ohms. Tried cotton didn't like, tried again this time and kept it wet and it is very good. Going through much more juice with micro, about 30% more than 6 wrap on 30g wire at 1.5 ohms. Battery life is also less on micro. Only .1 difference on ohms thinking the number of wraps must be reason. Anybody else experience this? Thanks.

 

[super_X_drifter]

28g wire, 10wraps, wrapped around 5/64" drill bit, cotton wick, 1.4ohms. Tried cotton didn't like, tried again this time and kept it wet and it is very good. Going through much more juice with micro, about 30% more than 6 wrap on 30g wire at 1.5 ohms. Battery life is also less on micro. Only .1 difference on ohms thinking the number of wraps must be reason. Anybody else experience this? Thanks.

Yep. There's only one explanation : your vaping more

 

[KwhyLE]

yep. I used to vape only 2.5mls a day. Once I got into micros+cotton, I'm vaping 4-6mls a day. I think we need to venture into the DIY juice section pretty soon

 

[hildicat]

28g wire, 10wraps, wrapped around 5/64" drill bit, cotton wick, 1.4ohms. Tried cotton didn't like, tried again this time and kept it wet and it is very good. Going through much more juice with micro, about 30% more than 6 wrap on 30g wire at 1.5 ohms. Battery life is also less on micro. Only .1 difference on ohms thinking the number of wraps must be reason. Anybody else experience this? Thanks.

Absolutely. These drink up juice like a thirsty sailor.

 

[hubseven]

Absolutely. These drink up juice like a thirsty sailor.

Thank God, I diy so cost isn't really a factor or it would certainly be. The taste and the vapor are extraordinary.

 

[hubseven]

Yep. There's only one explanation : your vaping more

Could be but what I do notice is way more vapor per vape which would indicate I'm burning more juice per vape, not complaining because it's all good and have no intention of changing. Glad I gave cotton one more shot.

 

[Xobeloot]

I also DIY. I can whip up over 1000ml of flavored juice for around $50, it really doesn't matter how much I vape in a day.

I think I averaged the cost to me at ~$0.07 per ml thus far accounting for extra bottles and such in that figure.

 

[hubseven]

I also DIY. I can whip up over 1000ml of flavored juice for around $50, it really doesn't matter how much I vape in a day.

I think I averaged the cost to me at ~$0.07 per ml thus far accounting for extra bottles and such in that figure.

No doubt diy for juice is way to go. Seems complicated and overwhelming at first but certainly not beyond anybody's capability if you stick with it just like going to RBA's for first time. The taste and dollar savings make it worth trying.

 

[Xobeloot]

I actually prefer it to pre-made flavors. I like being able to fine-tune it to my own likes. If it steeps too strong, cut it with more unflavored. Too weak... add more. I feel like a mad scientist when I'm mixing.

 

[ukeman]

yah, my sub 1.0 Ohms coils are juice hogs... i haven't found the right DIY mix yet and spending too much on my favorite juices.

talk about juice - they also suck out the batts... i love my 350 mods, but constantly changing out batts.

actually i have 9 APV's and 9 attys going at one time (the 10th is the Reo Grand for the road... unless i'm tinkering with it).... good thing this is a 18650 mod!

Sub 1.0 is the only way to go for my Reo RM2 now.... .6+ to .7+ Ohms (best reaction time and flavor too)

 

[Awkwardly Awesome]

Maybe its because I have been so busy at work, but I am actually using less juice with my REO and RM2 combo. Back when I was running Smoktech 1.25ohm dual coil cartos on my Sigelei mech, I was using 6-8mL's a day. Now I am around 4-5mL's a day.

 

[ukeman]

Nic is a factor too.... since going sub 1.0 had to cut the nic way down... and it has the effect of encoraging chain vaping.

 

[FeistyAlice]

I'm definitely going through more juice since starting micro-coil and rolled cotton wick in RM2s. I vaped the RM2s for quite a while using non-micro coil around silica.

I don't think I'm vaping any more; maybe less.

One thing I did start doing, a few days ago, is cutting my narrow range of juices by VG because using micro-coil/cotton, same ohms same juices still, TH is more intense, at times too much (alternative solution is VV REO but I don't normally subject them to the daily rigors the mechanicals can handle) and flavors strong enough they can handle being cut some. In fact the FSUSA Butterscotch Almond, extra shot flavor, I've been using over 2 years, is really a little too intense in flavor and TH with micro-coil/cotton, and that's without changing ohms, volts, nic. Same with my other Butterscotch based flavors including Vapor Craze Monkey Business. But, oh how the subtle nuances of that juice pop out now! We've gone through 60 ml of it way too fast. But I did order a bunch so not near running out. (Biggest bottle sold is 30 ml.) (I wasn't gonna let DH "waste" it in his Mini ViVi Nova but he loves it.)

FSUSA Applewood is the only juice that no one seems to be able to simulate. I don't like to vape fruit flavors but this is an exception. I've never been able to detect much apple in it or any at all. With micro-coil/cotton I've started to detect a hint of apple. But that's good as it makes for the complexities to shine and I love it.

Feisty Alice

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