I have noticed that some wicks have separated and become jagged looking after a few refills; others do not. I have also noticed that some wicks were limp when wet like a piece of cotton string would be when wet. I've also noticed that some wicks are much more "springy" and appear slightly thicker and more rigid. I base that on observations in clear mods where some wicks have a tendency to shoot straight through the coil and hit the sides of the tube as opposed to the less stiff wicks that fall right over the edge of the cup like a piece of string. This leads me to believe that all the wicks are not identical. But then again I suppose the liquid could be coming into play here.
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I have noticed that some wicks have separated and become jagged looking after a few refills; others do not. I have also noticed that some wicks were limp when wet like a piece of cotton string would be when wet. I've also noticed that some wicks are much more "springy" and appear slightly thicker and more rigid. I base that on observations in clear mods where some wicks have a tendency to shoot straight through the coil and hit the sides of the tube as opposed to the less stiff wicks that fall right over the edge of the cup like a piece of string. This leads me to believe that all the wicks are not identical. But then again I suppose the liquid could be coming into play here.
This is getting ridiculous and even paranoid 
I don't have any reasons not to believe that some of these wicks don't burn. It is very common that if something is working fine then those people don't post or complain about their product or from that particular problem.
We all know that these cartomizers seems to differ very much. I got mine from retailer that is very well known and these are r4 version. But there is no mentioning about resistance. There are too many variations of these that it is impossible to know reasons for burning. Or why it is burned in two pieces in one spot and not completely. Since it is burned broken I can only guess that it burned from the spot where thecoil is.
These are regular size and threading is copper and that seems to be one variation from the mainstream. Retailer got these about a week ago. Other cartomizer from the same package seem to perform good but I had to take a middle ring away and now it is so much better. I still have three left from this package so time will tell.
I really hope we are not starting to accuse each others here. I am not completely rookie with these things. I started with these things back in January 2008. And after reading hundreds of pages just about these C-E2 I should be knowing how to fill and use them. All we need is a motherly hug from mother Amma.
I don't have any reasons not to believe that some of these wicks don't burn. It is very common that if something is working fine then those people don't post or complain about their product or from that particular problem.We all know that these cartomizers seems to differ very much. I got mine from retailer that is very well known and these are r4 version. But there is no mentioning about resistance. There are too many variations of these that it is impossible to know reasons for burning. Or why it is burned in two pieces in one spot and not completely. Since it is burned broken I can only guess that it burned from the spot where thecoil is.
These are regular size and threading is copper and that seems to be one variation from the mainstream. Retailer got these about a week ago. Other cartomizer from the same package seem to perform good but I had to take a middle ring away and now it is so much better. I still have three left from this package so time will tell.
I really hope we are not starting to accuse each others here. I am not completely rookie with these things. I started with these things back in January 2008. And after reading hundreds of pages just about these C-E2 I should be knowing how to fill and use them. All we need is a motherly hug from mother Amma.
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I'd like to see some pics of a wick that is burned too. If that happens, then I imagine you will see pics all over this forum from one end to the other. That will be evidence and I may change my opinion. However, I will not see those pics it it is not possible.
Who burned a wick and said that it was torched and that it crumbled into burned pieces? Whoever said that was not guessing.
I don't think you will see pics and a few more details of exactly what went on with this issue of a burning wick.
Of all the ones I've fudged around with, I haven't seen one burnt wick yet. I've had them turn black from gunk, I've seen them turn dark from juice, and I've seen them come apart when wet if you mess around with them too much. This is on R2's, R3's and R4's.
Not saying it's not possible, but I tend to believe some people are confusing "dark" with "burnt". If any part of the wick were going to burn it would be the part inside the coil, NOT the part hanging down inside the carto body that isn't even close to the coil. I've dry burned a ton of these things and never seen the wick burn.
Not saying it's not possible, but I tend to believe some people are confusing "dark" with "burnt". If any part of the wick were going to burn it would be the part inside the coil, NOT the part hanging down inside the carto body that isn't even close to the coil. I've dry burned a ton of these things and never seen the wick burn.
There is something you can do that may help. Simply burn an undamaged part of your wick with a hot flame and tell us the result.
Side note--All these opinions... I feel as though we needed a poll to see who's a fan and who's not a fan of the infamous "e2" it's on the main cartomizer issue page please vote I'd Like to see a majority vote on these
Wow. I really didn't mean to cause this much of a heated debate. I just wanted to put it out there that mine burned, and I have to assume that others have and will. This was the first and only batch I ordered from Vapor Junction. I have not ordered any from anyone else. It was a pack of five, and each one had literally burned to the point that it took only a slight amount of moving because I barely got them out of the cup before they crumbled. I first started getting concerned this morning when I put on a brand new one and began vaping. I vaped about the equivalent of one cigarette. The next time I pick it up and vaped, it had a horrible charred, chemical taste to it. This was strange to me, as it took at least a full day of vaping on the others before I got that same or similar taste. When it happened with the others, I decided I'd put them aside and worry about cleaning them later. When today's carto began tasting like a burning coal, I decided it was time to clean. I pulled out the inner-most plugs and intended to try the white wine vinegar idea I read about in an earlier post. When I noticed the first was very crispy-looking, I decided to pull it out of the cup completely. I was careful because I assumed I would be placing it back once it was clean. I assumed I could clean the entire thing, put it back into place and be good to go. That's when the first one crumbled apart. Then the second, the third, and so on. I didn't do an initial dry burn on the first carto out of the pack, the second I did. The third, fourth, and fifth cartos got a quick rinse and dry burn before use. They were used on a KR808 (Puresmoker Ace) and nothing else. These were the 3 Ohm cartos. I'm not sure what other information to share.
I don't like the idea of cold turkey quitting, but I won't allow myself to go back to analogs, and I can't stand the gum. So otherwise, I'm out of options.
I don't like the idea of cold turkey quitting, but I won't allow myself to go back to analogs, and I can't stand the gum. So otherwise, I'm out of options.
Negative, I think it would turn into a ..... session with nothing good coming of it. Maybe if it was a poll of which carto is best. E2 would get my vote hands down. As a stock carto it is still head and shoulders above the rest.
The same thing happened to me on one of my CE2 R3, the wicks looked like burned and fallen apart, I did a dry burn on that CE2 and noticed that the remaining wick inside the coil got really white and like new, so, I don't think the wick is burning, it's more like br said before, the char is separating the strands and breaking the wick, not burning.
If you still have those CE2, do a dry burn and see if the remaining wick inside the coil gets white and clean.
Jason
Well the good thing is that you quit analogs!! The strange thing is that batch of cartos u got.... Haven't heard of that yet and its kind if disturbing.... I would tr to contact vapor junction ask them and see what the say about refund exchange or something....
Well the good thing is that you quit analogs!! The strange thing is that batch of cartos u got.... Haven't heard of that yet and its kind if disturbing.... I would tr to contact vapor junction ask them and see what the say about refund exchange or something....
Yes, Banjoman. I did remove them from the cup. The char breaking apart the wick? I suppose it's possible, but when I say it crumbled, I mean it basically reduced to a few chunks and mostly black powdery ash.
I will try to dig those things back out of the trash (uggh) and try using a lighter on them.
Assuming they're not actually burning, then it's a juice problem? Too much additives gunking up and then busting apart the wick?
I was using Johnson Creek Red Oak Domestic if that helps anyone.
I will try to dig those things back out of the trash (uggh) and try using a lighter on them.
Assuming they're not actually burning, then it's a juice problem? Too much additives gunking up and then busting apart the wick?
I was using Johnson Creek Red Oak Domestic if that helps anyone.
I like slopes idea of an e2, raidy mod
Where is this located? Anyone ever used one?
If I'm reading you correctly...
The wick isn't supposed to be removed from the cup. It's wrapped inside the coil which will break if you try to pull it out. If the wicks need cleaning you should do it without touching them. The wick at the coil will get very black and gunky depending on the juice, but once you rinse and dry burn you'll be left with a gray/white mass that can be scraped off (gently).
When these things are new you can (gently) pull the wicks out of the carto body (but NOT the cup) if you want to cut them off for a PTB mod, but other than that there's no reason to move them about. Just rinse and dry burn... that's all.
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