NEW RoyalSmokers C-E2 R4 Review, Tips, Info, Help, Video
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im using the hornady ultrasonic cleaner, it is the same exact model as used commercially for jewelry but has a nice hornady label on it. Same price as the others as well. Obviously (at least to me) I am just using water no chemicals
I'm using the same tv waffles mix (pg/vg) and have found it to be 1 of the 2 top performing juices that I've tried in the E2's. Curiously the pg/vg ratio in tv butter rum and strawberry cheesecake don't perform nearly as well for me. The other top performing juice for me is 100% vg cappuchino purchased from Cignot. Am using ptb modded r3, 3.5 and r4's with an eGo.
me too with little joy except with everclear (in TX you can get it) to clean the VG/PG out of the wicks, havn't found anything to get the hard gunk off the wicks at the cup slots. water is good but not enough to reuse. burn/ultasonec/burn/ultrasonic etc hann't worked for me BUT maybe i let them get too gunked up
good questions. Of the ecf suppliers, I know that MadVapes sells nichrome wire, but I don't know how it compares to e2 wire. If someone has tried other nichrome wires such as MadVapes please post and let us know.
As stated in a previous post, the cool vape of the bottle mod has spoiled me and I miss it when using a stock XL. This is one of the ways I cool down the XL now. The extra tube has one of my filler tips inside to seal the cup. To refill, I just pull the yellow extension out.
you can also make the bottle mod's vapor better with a slightly longer mouthpiece.
this is the famous Lowe's tube (the smallest of the 3 they carry), and it's not too wide like a carto.
hey quick, whats say you on building this GENESIS.
whats your thoughts on this subject, likey, no likey
whats your thoughts on this subject, likey, no likey
While he thinks about it, I need to say before I forget,
that I would like for us to try some nichrome mesh, just a little roll of it going from one slit to the other might be all we need. ...No more coil, no more wick, (tho you could still try ptb outside the cup as an option).
Then the liquid around the cup would be absorbed by the nichro-mesh which lights up?
The nichrome mesh would blacken or oxidize or whatever you call it, and the electrons and heat would be better distributed within the mesh?
Cleaning would be easier, because there is no hairy wick, just longer lasting metal and ceramic.
that I would like for us to try some nichrome mesh, just a little roll of it going from one slit to the other might be all we need. ...No more coil, no more wick, (tho you could still try ptb outside the cup as an option).
Then the liquid around the cup would be absorbed by the nichro-mesh which lights up?
The nichrome mesh would blacken or oxidize or whatever you call it, and the electrons and heat would be better distributed within the mesh?
Cleaning would be easier, because there is no hairy wick, just longer lasting metal and ceramic.
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I like it. Stainless mesh will have very consistent wicking properties (provided you don't squash it and roll it reasonably the same each time). If it doesn't wick enough you just go to a bigger diameter roll. Not sure where it melts/burns but I think it's likely to be a higher temp than normal wick material. If it gets clogged and you want to bother with cleaning you may be able to incinerate any gunk in it with a torch and worst case you might have to unroll it to incinerate. You may need to use a different micron mesh for different viscosity juice. If it's a replaceable component (even if it's not) you could use larger micron mesh for thicker juice. You might be able to easily implement my suggestion of customizing for thin, medium, thick juice. The physics won't change for the length. Slower rate of delivery for a longer length. Might be able to compensate to keep the volume the same with a thicker roll. Something to experiment with would be a coil just across the top of a thick roll rather than wrapped around it. You will need to calculate current vs watts vs length of the coil wire. Ask him what current draw he is working with. It has to be reasonable for the batteries you're going to use. User serviceable (at least for some users) would be ideal. So a well milled permanent tank with screw/nut terminal posts and most anybody could replace the heating element. With a bit of thought/design you should be able to come up with something so people could easily cut, roll, and replace their own mesh as well. I'd go for reasonably shallow tanks to start with. Easier to keep the delivery rate constant with a smaller variation in level as you go from full to empty. Screw the air tube for auto batteries. You could try that as a bonus after everything else is worked out. Keep it simple and mundane until it works. Elaborate and doesn't work isn't much good (sound familiar?). Try using science this time
perfect sense quick , thanks, ok so now to go gather everything i need online and order it all.
and i agree a shorter fatter tank would be better off then think and long.
To anyone using the syring ptb mod, im finding that no fold at top and only 3 fold the long wya then bend it in half is good enough, its loose behind the slits but doesnt move, im getting constant juice flow this way.
also, you dont want the ptb to scrunch up inside the chamber, it should be straight.
and i agree a shorter fatter tank would be better off then think and long.
To anyone using the syring ptb mod, im finding that no fold at top and only 3 fold the long wya then bend it in half is good enough, its loose behind the slits but doesnt move, im getting constant juice flow this way.
also, you dont want the ptb to scrunch up inside the chamber, it should be straight.
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yes and yes.
some syringes have a bigger inside by just a tad. and i have one thats alot bigger but one end is a tad smaller so it fits snug on the e2 but leaves a bigger tank area and around the cup as well.
Does anyone know where to get the cartos and the metal tops?
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I only browsed the thread a short while, but it looks like the E2 will need some modding.
It looked like he uses an RCA jack and that eliminates having to mess with 808d and 510 threads and all that mess. The jack has been used before, I don't remember the results, but I like the idea of plug-n-play, no more thread problems.
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I only browsed the thread a short while, but it looks like the E2 will need some modding.
It looked like he uses an RCA jack and that eliminates having to mess with 808d and 510 threads and all that mess. The jack has been used before, I don't remember the results, but I like the idea of plug-n-play, no more thread problems.
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we need a list of links where to get everything needed to replicate this G.
i also want to test the mesh on a e2 mod. with some playing around we can get that e2 coil vertical and get the mesh inside it to test.
i also seen the jacks before on some other guys mods, it is true plug and play and this raidy guy seems to know his electronics , so i wonder what the benefits are and why it isnt industry wide. (plug and play style)
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I'm compiling links for genisis supplies as they pop up on the thread. Let me know if you need any links.
Yeah, my syringe is bigger on one end smaller on the other. The CE2 base fits snug on the small end but it still leaked where the pipe cutter crimped the edges of the metal tubing. Now to find a way to seal it..
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