what about Pod systems(not sure the wire type) and iCares(ss316) are they regulated in some type of internal TC? Anybody know?
Those photos were all back in the beginning, DNA40 days. NI200 was the only known wire at the time. TI came next, SS came later. I have been using TI for the last year or so myself, but after building a SS coil for a friend today, I may give it a go once I find some SS430.
Those temperature will result in chard cotton so you might as well roll it up and smoke it. Sure in the tests they might me achieving those temperatures to make the study prove what they want.
Again what I did shows the external temperature of the coil where the vapor is actually coming from that I am inhaling.
I can vape in tc at 500°f without charring wicks, far above the 470°f where carcinogens are being produced.
Do you really think your vapor is only coming off the outside of your coil? Watch some slow-mo utube vids. Vapor is shooting everywhere, even out the ends of the coils. I'll bet it gets pretty darn hot inside our coils.
So those readings were after you closed it back up? Or firing it open with the fan? Personally I think it would of been cooler if it were wicked unlike a cart (but perhaps that wasn't your intention ) because of the airflow not cooling the way it was intended in a normal kayfun or Russian set up. Also over saturation could possibly create slightly more heat as well, don't know this for sure but sometimes if I open my JC to much it produces a slightly harsher vape. Did you also do this with a traditional Russian build?This was a Russian 91%, built up like a carto on steroids. It was vertical NI200 coil, and back in those days many of us (credit to @DJ ) were using Hemp as a filler. I know it was fully saturated, and I know it wasnt a dry hit situation. You can see the vapor trailing off to the right as I had a fan blowing on it.
Now after snapping these pics, I put the tank back on and vaped it, as is without changing anything. That build was a very satisfying hit.
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Those photos were all back in the beginning, DNA40 days. NI200 was the only known wire at the time. TI came next, SS came later. I have been using TI for the last year or so myself, but after building a SS coil for a friend today, I may give it a go once I find some SS430.
I'd give Plain Old SS316/316L a go if you have Never Tried it.
Clean Taste. Fast Ramp Ups/Downs. Inexpensive. And you can get it about Anywhere you can buy Vape Wire.
Another who will quit because they believe the totally skewed results of these studies. Going to be no problems at all and no products out of stock if this keeps up.
No, the pics were only with no cap, couldnt figure out how to get inside to get a measurement with the cap on. I am sure that this was not representative of how we vape, as the chamber was open and the airflow was not right. At the time I was just trying to validate TC though, wasnt really questioning other stuff.So those readings were after you closed it back up? Or firing it open with the fan? Personally I think it would of been cooler if it were wicked unlike a cart (but perhaps that wasn't your intention ) because of the airflow not cooling the way it was intended in a normal kayfun or Russian set up. Also over saturation could possibly create slightly more heat as well, don't know this for sure but sometimes if I open my JC to much it produces a slightly harsher vape. Did you also do this with a traditional Russian build?
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I see some attempts with thermal infrared devices to measure coils and wonder what you guys think about what I did with an instant read thermometer? I'm really not sure if this is accurate or not, but I did try it a few times and I had seemed to get consistent readings . I simply opened up a kayfun shortly after a vape and placed the tip of the thermometer onto the center of the coil and fired the coil for a couple seconds. I watched the readings go from room temp to (at least in my particular coil) to Temps between 200 and 230 degrees. I rewet wick and tried this a few times and got readings about the same every time. The coil didn't short and my thermometer goes to 300 degrees. So is this not reading coil temp? Or am I perhaps not using the correct tool?
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Yes did it with no AF , so if anything I would think it could be a bit cooler. I know it's not a proper test at all, but I tend to think it's at least within 20 degrees or something. And obviously the longer you fire it, the hotter it gets, but I tried simulating it as close to my vaping style as possible.Sounds reasonable. Dont know though. Could the tip have given some sort of heat-sink effect?
We need a way to measure whats going on inside there with the cap on and normal vape airflow.
Oh yes, loved the ceramic and gennys! And not sure why I stopped the hemp either? Oh maybe it was all that boiling, picking, and boiling again thing? Does that hemp come ready to vape now?No, the pics were only with no cap, couldnt figure out how to get inside to get a measurement with the cap on. I am sure that this was not representative of how we vape, as the chamber was open and the airflow was not right. At the time I was just trying to validate TC though, wasnt really questioning other stuff.
No, never took pics of a standard R91 horizontal build. I was pretty stuck on the vertical builds because they gave me such a good vape. Did the same thing in Taifuns when I moved on from the R91.
Remember back in the ceramic wick on genny days, I am wondering if I can do a rig like that with a thermocouple inside. The trouble with thermocouples is placement such that you dont short out the coils to one another.
Heck if I know, I moved on to Rayon. But yeah, the hemp was a lot of work, it did work well though, and didnt burn easy.Oh yes, loved the ceramic and gennys! And not sure why I stopped the hemp either? Oh maybe it was all that boiling, picking, and boiling again thing? Does that hemp come ready to vape now?
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You left out the chromium in SS which if dry fired who knows chromium oxides and chromium 6 which is bad? We can read that in the next studiesNot so fast.
SS316--too much nickel. Is that a bad thing? Who knows?
SS316L--won't give accurate temp readings on preset SS modes, which are tuned for ss316. That a problem? No idea.
SS430--better but the wire is springy and requires a tcr setting and a lot of thinking.
How am I doing so far?
The more you know.....
Speaking of prop 65 warnings. I was at Stanford a year or so ago and I was walking to the parking lot. In front of me was a man with his wife and child. The wife read the prop 65 warning and she read the word word cancer in it. The little boy who must have been around 5 or 6 years old, started balling his eyes out screaming he didn't want to get cancer. Now it's possible that maybe one of his grandparents or other family member died a horrible death from cancer and that's what set him off. But at the time, I couldn't stop wondering what some parents tell their kids about cancer. Did someone close the them die of cancer, or are the parents just that stupid to teach such a young child to freak out when he hears the word cancer? I mean he freaked out. And even the mother would not go back down the elevator to the parking lot. She sent her husband down to get the car and come back to pick them up. I suppose some people just thrive on living in fear. I dunno.You live in CA, like me, try to go a day with out a prop 65 warning![]()
Yep, full rayon here as well, great stuffHeck if I know, I moved on to Rayon. But yeah, the hemp was a lot of work, it did work well though, and didnt burn easy.
Here is a picture of the coil. I know the coil was well saturated because I did these tests myself.
You call it propaganda, I am remaining objective to the possibility there may be something to it.
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I'll check in with you after the studies show dry burning stainless can release chromium oxides and that bad boy chromium 6I'm not giving up Vaping....but if studies really find out it's safer to use TC, I'm going Stainless... the only thing I will really miss is my Nautilus Mini unless they come out with SS coils.
Not so fast.
SS316--too much nickel. Is that a bad thing? Who knows?
SS316L--won't give accurate temp readings on preset SS modes, which are tuned for ss316. That a problem? No idea.
SS430--better but the wire is springy and requires a tcr setting and a lot of thinking.![]()
How am I doing so far?
The more you know.....