New studies find carcinogens in vg and pg at high temps, even in tootle puffers

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Bonskibon

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Remember, temperature is "king" and seeing the coil glow red means the temperature was way too high. I'd suggest lowering the temperature a tad, or two, and get a real TC mod that allows power and temperature adjustment. I have a Kanger DB160 that works just like the Pico, when in TC mode, and I only use it in power mode since the TC mode is so p*** poor.
I got the Pico because of it's small size. I liked the idea that it was TC in case I wanted to explore that route. Was not aware TC on it was flawed. I will be looking into a good TC device so I will at least have one on hand.
 

Eskie

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So I did a build of SS 316l the same way I build my kanthal coils with the only difference being the ohms. Put it on my Pico and fired it at 420F and it burnt the coil and the juice with just a few seconds hit on the fire button. I saw the coil through the Toptank RBA glow red with the tank full of juice and all. I have NO idea what I'm doing on TC mode I couldn't find a way to change the wattage so it was at 75w which is way to hot, but thought that didn't matter? Anyways, done for today. I need to learn how to use TC mode on my device. This is why I don't use it. I don't like it, and have no idea what I'm doing. Just thought I would do a quick comparison to see if I'm in a safe vaping threshold with my kanthal coils in wattage mod, but my experiment didn't go so well.

When in TC mode, press the fire button 4 times quickly to set the wattage for use in TC mode.
 

Imfallen_Angel

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Could you elaborate on this?
In what way...

Some people have trouble building, while they might have been doing it for a long time, their builds aren't all that great but still works enough that they believe that it's all good and "lock" themselves into "my builds are fine" mentality.

For build-up, if your coil has crap on it, you need more power to get the liquid to vaporize, so you end up increasing the temp if you're in TC mode.

Hotspots is pretty self explanatory... if your coil doesn't heat evenly across, you can end up overcompensating to get any vapor coming out, so you're overheating that hotspot as the coil isn't heating up in a balance way all across the wraps.

Chocking the coil with cotton, too much cotton, the heat transfers to the cotton instead of pulling the liquid through... so instead of the liquid vaporizing outside the coil's surface out of the wick, it's going towards the inside of the wick. So vapor is "locked" within the wick, you need to suck harder to force the vapor out, and so, you increase the temp instead without realizing that you're adding to the problem you're actually having.
 
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Imfallen_Angel

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I got the Pico because of it's small size. I liked the idea that it was TC in case I wanted to explore that route. Was not aware TC on it was flawed. I will be looking into a good TC device so I will at least have one on hand.
The Pico is just fine... my daughter has had one for a good year now, used it exclusively in TC mode, never had any issues.

Most that whine about it are simply not doing it right.

While I didn't whine, and instead tried to figure it out, when I started with SS, I had serious troubles getting it to work in TC correctly with single coils.

When I did a dual built in SS for the first time, found that it worked fine.

Learned that it was a question that I wasn't using enough wire in single coils for it to register correctly. I've now been building my singles with as much wire as I can fit in there and it's working just fine now.

Sadly, had to argue the point that single coils weren't working for me in a thread and instead of assistance, all I got was a lot of arrogant jerks. Didn't matter that a lot of other people were having the same issue, but no one ever posted a "solution".

So now I share what I learned.
 
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DaveP

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I vape at 10W to 12W and can't really deal with an overly warm vape. It's all about wicking if you want to keep the vape cool at 10W and the vapor nice and thick.

If I get more than a hint of warmth at 10W it's usually because my wick has collapsed and some coils aren't touching the juice. That, or a hot coil leg or a short wick tail that isn't sucking up juice.

If it's warming up I tear it down, dry burn, and rewick. After that, it's cool and vaping fine again with a nice cool plume of vapor.
 
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Bonskibon

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Eh. I smoked cigarettes for a long time care free. I think I am going to keep getting my delicious hot vape with carcinogens for a long time as well.
That's the spirit... :) I think most of us feel the same way, however if there is a way to make vaping even safer than smoking, why not.
 

Sinsa

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That's the spirit... :) I think most of us feel the same way, however if there is a way to make vaping even safer than smoking, why not.

People will do what they want, I will vape at 110 watts with my delicious apple pie, and the next guy will maximize safety. I don't see anything wrong with either and I think grown adults will be able to come to their own conclusions with the data provided.
 

mikepetro

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If, as you say in your post, everything was conducted in good faith, then you have my sincerest apologies for implying anything but.
My opinions are just that, my opinions.
My posts are indeed in good faith, and in no way a "shill" for anyone.

I believe in TC, and yes I own a bunch of Evolv stuff, but I also have owned Yihi and Dicodes boards, just happen to like Evolv's the best.

I am a modder and a vape geek:
Look through my blog
Look through my posts.
I am also the 5th on the Top Traders list for this whole site for Co-ops I ran for everything from Silica Wick, to Vamos, to DNA boards.

So if you question my "good faith" please look through my history here first.
 

Bonskibon

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The Pico TC mode can change the wattage easily, just read your instructions...

It's kinda sad here... you say "I don't like it", yet, aren't even taking 10 seconds to check how to set your mod correctly.

"Learning" to use TC.. geeezzz it's "set your wattage at something balanced for your coil" which you'd do anyways, and then set the temp... try it, if too hot, lower it, if too cold, increase it...

On average, if you're using 26 or 28 gauge at 0.3 to 0.8 ohm, try at 45W and test at 300F and go from there.

THAT'S IT! nothing else, nothing more....It's not wizardry here.
Ok. I'm just learning, no need to get snippy.
 

cigatron

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In what way...

Some people have trouble building, while they might have been doing it for a long time, their builds aren't all that great but still works enough that they believe that it's all good and "lock" themselves into "my builds are fine" mentality.

For build-up, if your coil has crap on it, you need more power to get the liquid to vaporize, so you end up increasing the temp if you're in TC mode.

Hotspots is pretty self explanatory... if your coil doesn't heat evenly across, you can end up overcompensating to get any vapor coming out, so you're overheating that hotspot as the coil isn't heating up in a balance way all across the wraps.

Chocking the coil with cotton, too much cotton, the heat transfers to the cotton instead of pulling the liquid through... so instead of the liquid vaporizing outside the coil's surface out of the wick, it's going towards the inside of the wick. So vapor is "locked" within the wick, you need to suck harder to force the vapor out, and so, you increase the temp instead without realizing that you're adding to the problem you're actually having.

Hey, what do you know, three more things "not to do" to add to the TC for Dummies thread. So much for your 4 easy steps;)
 

GeorgeS

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    (disclaimer - long time mostly exclusive TC user)
    • I made the 'mistake' of following one of the early links to some text and charts which seemed to indicate 1 cig equated to 50mg of formaldihyde and at ~215C VG started to emit more than trace amounts of it. Thus making 8-12 "puffs" on a ecig at 215C likely as bad as the same number of puffs on a cig.
    • Anyone who has paid attention while dry burning a coil could see that coils heat up from the center outward. While adding wick and juice (heat sink) may spread out and reduce the temperature differences between the center of the coil and the ends, "TC" guesstimate of coil temperature has always been an over all average and the center of the coil could always be hotter than the rest of the coil.
    • Information presented early in the thread seem to indicate that "subtank" and "Nautilus" tanks were safe however were lacking in detail as to how the tanks were used. (or how they might of been used safely)
    Personally I'd like to see further studies on how (or not!) changing the boiling point of VG may change the release of toxins.
     

    Bonskibon

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    It's kinda sad here... you say "I don't like it", yet, aren't even taking 10 seconds to check how to set your mod correctly.
    Just to be clear, your correct, I don't like it. I wanted to test SS on my TC mod to check and see if what I'm vaping at with my kanthal coils on my regulated mod is within the "safe zone" with the information that has been provided by the OP in the start of this thread.

    That's not to say I won't like it in the future, I'm just happy where I'm at right now without it.
     

    Imfallen_Angel

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    Hey, what do you know, three more things "not to do" to add to the TC for Dummies thread. So much for your 4 easy steps;)
    Ah.. but these are not just TC.. these are for ANY builds.. if someone doesn't know these three things, time to learn them or go to pre-built cartridges...

    :pervy::pervy::pervy::pervy:
     
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    schatz

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    My thoughts exactly. All of the studies we have so far that actually do measure what comes out of the drip tip show that the levels are low to non-existent until you get a dry puff, even for "high" wattage vaping. So, we need a study, using a tc mod, measuring levels at different temperatures in as close to real world usage as possible.

    The cynic in me says not to expect this anytime soon, especially not from evolv, unless the results actually do show that the compounds start forming with tc above 450F.
    I wonder if there is anyway of using a mass spectometer or similiar inline with drip tip and then proceeding to vape normally at different temps and see what is there?
     

    Imfallen_Angel

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    Ok. I'm just learning, no need to get snippy.

    No no no.. not snippy.. just teasing a bit...

    Just to be clear, your correct, I don't like it. I wanted to test SS on my TC mod to check and see if what I'm vaping at with my kanthal coils on my regulated mod is within the "safe zone" with the information that has been provided by the OP in the start of this thread.

    That's not to say I won't like it in the future, I'm just happy where I'm at right now without it.

    Well, if you didn't get it right, you're experience was less than it should be... lots of people are hard set about their ways, but many end up giving it a solid try and it hits them.. and they switch.

    Part of why I said "sad" was that you didn't try it as it's intended to work and gave up on it.

    That's like saying that you hate pancakes because the first one you ever had was badly done due to the stove and pan not reaching to right temperature burning one side and not flipping it. :confused:
     

    Eskie

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    I wonder if there is anyway of using a mass spectometer or similiar inline with drip tip and then proceeding to vape normally at different temps and see what is there?

    Not sure of the exact method employed, but Kistler was able something like that as the Subtank "3rd gen" tests showed with very low release up to 25W in power/wattage mode.
     
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