That is going to be such a great contribution. Thank you for taking the time to do that. I know for myself it was confusing at first, but got so much help here and very grateful for all I have learned just through this thread alone.
New studies find carcinogens in vg and pg at high temps, even in tootle puffers
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One approach would be to put the 101 guide in a blog, then start a thread for Q&A. That way all that information is in one concise spot rather than scattered through the thread. You can always edit the blog entry to refine it as needed.
A challenge with threads, is you can try put all the good stuff in post# 1 but after a couple days you can no longer edit that post.
Congrats Mowgs, knew you could it. Now that wasn't so bad, was it? Thanks for making my point about good quality high tcr wire being key to a great TC vape.
The surprising stat in the presentation was that even low wattage vapes can heat to the danger point. I guess that's a product of time and wattage coupled with juice saturation to the coil diminishing over vape time. If you are a mouth to lung vaper there's a limited amount of draw time because the mouth can only hold so much vapor, then you either inhale or not. If you vape direct to lung, you are dependent on juice feed effectiveness to keep the wick supplied. That's reflected in the rise of bad stuff over time in the vape time charts he showed.
I call myself vaping without inhaling most of the time at 10 watts. I frequently use the partial inhale into the throat that allows me to exhale through the nose. Of course, some vapor goes farther than I think, but it's not not a deep inhale, just enough to get the vapor back into the throat far enough to be able to exhale into the sinuses and out through the nose. I get more flavor using that method and I may inhale into the lungs 20% of the time.
I suppose that any time you break down an atomizer and see crusted juice on the coil, there's been some high temps involved. When I change a wick once a day I don't see that as much as if I let the wick go 2 or 3 days. That could be just accumulation that's noticeable over time or just more instances where I let the temp rise above a certain level.
I call myself vaping without inhaling most of the time at 10 watts. I frequently use the partial inhale into the throat that allows me to exhale through the nose. Of course, some vapor goes farther than I think, but it's not not a deep inhale, just enough to get the vapor back into the throat far enough to be able to exhale into the sinuses and out through the nose. I get more flavor using that method and I may inhale into the lungs 20% of the time.
I suppose that any time you break down an atomizer and see crusted juice on the coil, there's been some high temps involved. When I change a wick once a day I don't see that as much as if I let the wick go 2 or 3 days. That could be just accumulation that's noticeable over time or just more instances where I let the temp rise above a certain level.
I started on TC in the summer of 2015. At first i was sure kanthal in watts mode tasted better but I vaped in TC mode exclusively for 6 weeks and then tried watts mode again and i was sure TC was better. I've been vaping TC exclusively ever since.FINALLY DID IT!!! Made a SS coil just like I would my kanthal build and put it on my Pico and set it to 12 watts (my setting on power mode that I use with kanthal) at 360F and vape like I usually do. I did not get temp. protection message after puffing 3 times in a row (maybe more puffs, but that's not how I vape). So I guess I can say that using my kanthal coil build in power mode is well within safe temperatures.
Now I have a new problem..... I really like using TC!
TC has some advantages for me that don't apply to everyone. I use an RDA exclusively (SV clone). There are times when it's not convenient to redrip. I can keep on vaping because there will be no dry hits even on a reletively dry coil. I get one kind of puff when the coil is freshly saturated and something different when it's not. Not only am I used to that, I prefer it. My MTL puffs go 1-1.3 seconds most of the time. When the coil is saturated Arctic Fox firmware on my pico typically shows 30 watts (my max) and 250-300 degrees (400 max). When the coil is fairly dry I mostly see 400 watts but only 3-5 watts to get there. Both kinds of puffs have their place.
In the past week I've been tracking my vape with the new firmware, a USB power meter, and a custom measuring stick for my dripper bottle. Yesterday, Thursday, was 633 puffs for 845 seconds to consume 4 ml of liquid and 2325 mAh of power. Wednesday was 574 puffs over 782 seconds to consum 4 ml of liquid and 2222 mAh of power. Some of the variations may be more puffs on a less saturated coil at low watts.
Which puff creates less bad stuff, 260 degrees at 30 watts or 400 degrees at 5 watts. I experience both and everything in between through the day.
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Yeah, thats a whole different area of vaping that I wonder about.
"Hit Style". Whats the difference to our lungs between MTL and DLH? And with DLH there are going to be widely varying amounts of volume. Then there is the "stealth vaping" I often do in restaurants etc, where I do a MTL hit but hold it in until there is virtually no visible exhale.
"Device 4 was bottom single coil Nautilus (Aspire USA, Kent, WA) with 2.2 Ω resistance. The overall design is visually similar to the Protank, but the replaceable coil-head is larger and the coil is vertically oriented, longer and of thicker gauge, and in contact with more wicking material (poly-fill). A single tank and three unique coil-heads were used in this study."
I'm sorry but when/where on earth did they get 2.2ohm coils for the Nautilus? I've only ever seen 1.6 and 1.8 ohm coils for the Nautilus classic. (not including all the new modern options)
I sense a very slight warmth in my MTL vaping style. I wonder sometime what the actual temp is. TC vaping has frustrated me every time I tried it. Even turning it down to the 200 +/- range it seems to want to shut me down unless I keep drawing. In power mode I can click fire and wait a second to listen for the boil, then vape. TC mode forces you to start drawing immediately to start air flow or it goes into temp protect mode.
At least half the time I vape Mouth to Nose. There's a new addition for the nomenclature guys! MTN vaping. I like it!
Another option is to create a blog and then cross post the info into the new thread? That's what I was planning anyway.
"Intentionally or accidentally, about 44,000 to 78,000 Americans end up in the emergency room every year because of Tylenol (acetaminophen/paracetamol) overdoses."
Oh gawd, remember when this used to be our guide:
I think I still have have that chart somewhere on my computer.
Oh gawd, remember when this used to be our guide:
Yep! I'm in the upper green, right next to the blue where the juice starts to fry!
If you set your temp to 400 and you are not reaching that temp when the coil is saturated, as you described, then you are only using your mod as a "temp protect" device, not a true "temp control" device. It's because your power level is not set high enough to reach 400° until the wick dries out some.
There's nothing wrong with that, many run their tc that way.
I'm in the other camp. I set my power high enough to reach my set temp with a fully saturated coil and let the mod turn down the power as needed. That is true "temp control" and it also serves as temp protect to boot. In this "temp control" mode the flavor is consistent because the temp is consistent.
Either way, I believe you are in the safe zone as long as your temp does not exceed 450-470°.
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Oh gawd, remember when this used to be our guide:
Yep, looked at it once and decided it could only address one atty from a temperature prospective.
Absolutely! Remember dry burning an old atomizer? We even did dry burns with 3 ohm atties on 3.4v eGo batteries. That was only ~4 watts!
When a wicks dry out you get bad stuff. Wattage is irrelevant.
Since cotton expands and rayon shrinks with heat and use, the right amount of wicking goes a long way toward a safe vape. I suspect that a lot of the bad stuff comes from improperly sized wicking and going too long before changing it. Hot legs, coils not touching wick all over, and over-driving the wick that's installed are all factors.
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I think they're the 2.1 coils which read a bit higher (most of my nauti coils do)
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