New studies find carcinogens in vg and pg at high temps, even in tootle puffers

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ScottP

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Whoa is me, whoa is me! Oh, the humanities.....hey, wait a minute, I'll just vape more and chase the skeeters with the vapor!

Oh is this what you are vaping?

th
 

DPLongo22

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awsum140

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What the heck does one do with it?

It looks like one of the those things Busardo did a fake video for. ;)

Yeah, PB did a video with one and almost blew out a lung. They are used for fogging things, who'd a thunk, like a wasp/hornet/bee problem, large area coverage (like a garden or yard) for insects and I used mine to apply a deodorant inside care interiors. That was a chemical designed to neutralize "offensive" odors like cigarette/cigar smoke for example. Close all doors and windows, except one door, point the fogger in through the slightly ajar door, fog for about sixty seconds, and you couldn't see any of the interior at all, just a white cloud. Took about an hour to dissipate and everything needed a wipe down and the glass needed cleaning, but it smelled fresh and new and stayed that way. It can also be used for whole house deodorizing as well but I never did that.
 

Semiretired

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They are used for fogging things, who'd a thunk, like a wasp/hornet/bee problem, large area coverage (like a garden or yard) for insects

Been using one for years to control mosquitos - ever since the city cut back on the budgets... They only fog once the emergency rooms start getting a lot of traffic...
 

ScottP

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Yeah, PB did a video with one and almost blew out a lung. They are used for fogging things, who'd a thunk, like a wasp/hornet/bee problem, large area coverage (like a garden or yard) for insects and I used mine to apply a deodorant inside care interiors. That was a chemical designed to neutralize "offensive" odors like cigarette/cigar smoke for example. Close all doors and windows, except one door, point the fogger in through the slightly ajar door, fog for about sixty seconds, and you couldn't see any of the interior at all, just a white cloud. Took about an hour to dissipate and everything needed a wipe down and the glass needed cleaning, but it smelled fresh and new and stayed that way. It can also be used for whole house deodorizing as well but I never did that.

I have only used mine for mosquitoes, but I would lik to get some of that deodorizer you mentioned. Can you tell me what it was called?
 

awsum140

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Scott, the stuff I used is called "Unsmoke Thermo 55". There's probably improved products out by now, I haven't done any of that stuff for almost ten years now and there were several different scents available.

I will tell you that it took the rotten smell out of a car that was left by water/mildew from bad welds in the floor pan, a brand new Solara that even replacing all the interior components couldn't cure, but this stuff did the trick. I did give it two treatments over today, just to be safe. Saved Toyota, and the dealer, from having to replace the whole car at no charge. Stale smoke smell was easy.
 
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ScottP

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Scorr, the stuff I used is called "Unsmoke Thermo 55". There's probably improved products out by now, I haven't done any of that stuff for almost ten years now and there were several different scents available.

I will tell you that it took the rotten smell out of a car that was left by water/mildew from bad welds in the floor pan, a brand new Solara that even replacing all the interior components couldn't cure, but this stuff did the trick. I did give it two treatments over today, just to be safe. Saved Toyota, and the dealer, from having to replace the whole car at no charge. Stale smoke smell was easy.

Thank you!
 

mikepetro

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"Noticeable lower concentrations of trace elements (≤3.4 pg/ mL puff), pesticides (<LOQ), PAHs (≤4.1 pg/mL puff) and carbonyls (≤2.11 ng/mL puff) were measured in e-vapors compared to those in cigarette smoke (up to 45.0 pg/mL puff, 8.7 pg/mL puff, 560.8 pg/mL puff and 1540 ng/mL puff, respectively). Although an accurate characterization of electronic cigarette emissions requires further analytical optimizations, our results have shown that vap-ing exposes the user to lesser amounts of selected toxic components of concern found in some representative French e-cigarette products than does smoking typical conventional cigarettes."

Chemical Evaluation of Electronic Cigarettes: Multicomponent Analysis of Liquid Refills and their Corresponding Aerosols
July 2017
Journal of analytical toxicology 41(8):1-9
DOI 10.1093/jat/bkx054
 

mikepetro

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What kind of gear did they use?
Vapor and smoke generation
E-vapors and tobacco smoke were generated with a Vitrocell®
VC1 smoking machine (Vitrocell, Waldkirch, Germany). For e-cig experi-
ments, the Cooperation Centre for Scientific Research Relative to
Tobacco (CORESTA) approach was used, with 55 mL puff over 3 s,
twice a minute (13). For 3R4F experiments, the VC1 parameters
were those of the ISO 3308:2012 smoking regime (35 mL puff over
2 s, once a minute, 8 puffs per cigarette)

Chemical Evaluation of Electronic Cigarettes: Multicomponent Analysis of Liquid Refills and their Corresponding Aerosols (PDF Download Available). Available from: Chemical Evaluation of Electronic Cigarettes: Multicomponent Analysis of Liquid Refills and their Corresponding Aerosols (PDF Download Available) [accessed Feb 14 2018].
 

Mowgli

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It all about "relative risk"!

"Mean lifetime risks decline in the sequence: combustible cigarettes >> heat-not-burn >> e-cigarettes (normal power)≥nicotine inhaler."
Comparing the cancer potencies of emissions from vapourised nicotine products including e-cigarettes with those of tobacco smoke..
August 2017 Tobacco Control 27(1):tobaccocontrol-2017-053808
DOI 10.1136/tobaccocontrol-2017-053808
William E Stephens


The quest continues among many (in fact the purpose of this thread) to minimize the Lifetime Risk associated with ecigs. While the risk is certainly greater than not inhaling anything, current generation products present far less risk than combustible tobacco. Older generation products are questionable.
Speaking of reduced harm:
I use SS430.
I read OUAT that SS develops a "sealing layer" on it when it's first heated.
I scrape the crud off my coils almost every tank refill.
Cleaner flavor, more accurate TC and less crud getting cooked off in my vape.
but
is that "sealing layer" only produced once or is it produced every time bare metal gets exposed?
Anyone know for sure?
@Kurt ?
 

ScottP

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Speaking of reduced harm:
I use SS430.
I read OUAT that SS develops a "sealing layer" on it when it's first heated.
I scrape the crud off my coils almost every tank refill.
Cleaner flavor, more accurate TC and less crud getting cooked off in my vape.
but
is that "sealing layer" only produced once or is it produced every time bare metal gets exposed?
Anyone know for sure?
@Kurt ?

That "sealing layer" is oxidation. Oxidation is when oxygen atoms bond to some other element or elements. Rust (Ferrous Oxide) for instance is the oxidation of Iron. If you scrape off that oxidation layer, exposing what is underneath the new layer can also oxidize. However over time, scraping off layers and letting the next oxidize, you will eventually run out of layers, leaving a hole. However with coils, you should be replacing them long before they get to that point.
 

Mowgli

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Thanks Scott!

What I read wasn't clear about exactly what the "sealing layer" is.
Oxidation makes sense.
I replace my coils when they start to heat from one side instead of the middle.
I don't know what mechanism causes that but my ultra-technical term for that effect is "worn out coils".
 
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zoiDman

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Speaking of reduced harm:
I use SS430.
I read OUAT that SS develops a "sealing layer" on it when it's first heated.
I scrape the crud off my coils almost every tank refill.
Cleaner flavor, more accurate TC and less crud getting cooked off in my vape.
but
is that "sealing layer" only produced once or is it produced every time bare metal gets exposed?
Anyone know for sure?
@Kurt ?

Not sure what "sealing layer" is being referred to? It might have been Chromium Oxides.

430 Stainless Steel is a High Chromium Ferric alloy. And will Readily form Chromium Oxides at the Surface Boundary. And that is why many Chromium Ferric Alloy are "Rust" Resistant. The Chromium Oxides interfere with the Iron to which would like to form Iron Oxides (Rust).

http://www.matweb.com/search/DataSheet.aspx?MatGUID=593734f9925c412a8f085870412786ce&ckck=1

But Chromium Oxides will form (and Self Heal!) even at room temperature. All it takes is some Time.

That is why Freshly Milled or Sanded SS looks Very Shiny. But after a couple of days, it starts to look dull. The Dullness is the Chromium Oxides at the Surface Boundary.

BTW - Chromium Oxides are not Easily removed. Which is a Good.
 

zoiDman

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Just FYI...430 is incredibly springy. To soften it, heat it with a flame to a dull red and let it cool....;)
Or if you have access to a furnace...the soft annealing temp is 760°C.

Yeah... Heating many Ferric Metal Alloys to beyond their Critical Point (usually Cherry Red) and then letting them Cool Slowly will make them "Soft" as Possible (Fully Annealed). Also removes Internal Stresses.

And Quick Quenching will do the Direct Opposite. Make them as "Hard" as possible (Fully Hardened). But can also Add Internal Stresses.

Does 430 SS have much of a perceivable difference to say 316/316L when in Wattage Mode?
 
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