Older Folks and Vaping Front Porch - Part 2

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MikeE3

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hmmm ... I saved this link to a USB charger. I think someone on the front or back porch posted it .... can't find the post. In the original post there was a coupon code listed <---- that's what I'm looking for. Anyone remember this? And have a link to the original post.

Amazon.com: Sabrent 50 Watt (10 Amp) 5-Port Family-Sized Desktop USB Rapid Charger. Smart USB Charger with Auto Detect Technology for iPhone 6 5s 5c 5, iPad Air mini, Galaxy S5 S4, Note 3 2, the new HTC One (M8), Nexus and More [Black] (AX-U5PB): Cel
 

MattB101

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I have been using the cotton bacon for a couple months now, seems to be doing just fine for me. I think the biggest learning curve to many of these wicking materials is finding the sweet spot between too little and too much material in the coil to keep the juice wicking well. Just a matter of feel depending on the diameter of your coil.

I agree. I am still experimenting with the right amount to use. I've gotten close on several occasions but still no "perfect" vape. Is there any such thing?

Sent while presently sitting on my .... watching mind numbing prattle on the TV. 257 Channels and nothing on.
 

MikeE3

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hmmm ... I saved this link to a USB charger. I think someone on the front or back porch posted it .... can't find the post. In the original post there was a coupon code listed <---- that's what I'm looking for. Anyone remember this? And have a link to the original post.

Amazon.com: Sabrent 50 Watt (10 Amp) 5-Port Family-Sized Desktop USB Rapid Charger. Smart USB Charger with Auto Detect Technology for iPhone 6 5s 5c 5, iPad Air mini, Galaxy S5 S4, Note 3 2, the new HTC One (M8), Nexus and More [Black] (AX-U5PB): Cel

OK - I found it. promotional code AXU5PB15 = $15.99. (don't know how long it's good for, it was posted a couple days ago.
 

bigbells

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Hey BB!

Just came across this thread: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...hought-i-broke-my-nautilus-informational.html

Might that be what's going on with your Naut?

No, my Nautilus actually is broken. The chimney turns independently of the top cap, which it's not sposta. However, the problem spelled out at that link might be helpful to me in reassembling my Nautilus after the new top/chimney assembly arrives. That's assuming I find the connection pin that is hiding on the floor.
 

PapaSloth

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Interesting progression of forms. From left to right, Kanger Protank 3 Mini on generic eGo 650mAh battery; Kayfun Lite Plus V2 clone on 4nine clone; EHPro Big Buddha on 2six clone.
OWFeiiq.jpg

Too bad I can't find a good 32600 mod to complete the picture!

My second Big Buddha also arrived yesterday. I've drilled out the air holes in the positive block on both of them to 5/64". The Kayfun in the picture has also been drilled out to 5/64", including both the side airhole and the center pin. I lung hit, and I like an airy draw.

The build on the Big Buddha is triple-twisted 30ga Kanthal, 7 wraps, dual coil at .5 Ohms, wicked with rayon. The other Big Buddha is 8 wraps at .6 Ohms. I'm not sure which one I like best yet, there seems to be a noticeable difference, but the freshness of the battery charge has much more impact on vaping than the difference in .1 Ohms does.
 

MattB101

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Interesting progression of forms. From left to right, Kanger Protank 3 Mini on generic eGo 650mAh battery; Kayfun Lite Plus V2 clone on 4nine clone; EHPro Big Buddha on 2six clone.
OWFeiiq.jpg

Too bad I can't find a good 32600 mod to complete the picture!

My second Big Buddha also arrived yesterday. I've drilled out the air holes in the positive block on both of them to 5/64". The Kayfun in the picture has also been drilled out to 5/64", including both the side airhole and the center pin. I lung hit, and I like an airy draw.

The build on the Big Buddha is triple-twisted 30ga Kanthal, 7 wraps, dual coil at .5 Ohms, wicked with rayon. The other Big Buddha is 8 wraps at .6 Ohms. I'm not sure which one I like best yet, there seems to be a noticeable difference, but the freshness of the battery charge has much more impact on vaping than the difference in .1 Ohms does.

I see another Monoprice fan!

Sent while presently sitting on my .... watching mind numbing prattle on the TV. 257 Channels and nothing on.
 

Absintheur

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Ken_A

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Sigh probably the most noob of questions but Which wicking material do people use ? Say from cotton , organic cotton , japans cotton pads , cotton balls , rayon .
Also so I do a build then put some juice on the wick , now once the juice is gone do you put more juice on the wick or throw it away and put in a new wick ?
Im going to guess if search this on the internet then like usual I'm going to get 10 different answers from ten different people.
Here i shall cherry pick from the fountain of knowledge :p
I use silica wick. but then I only rebuild my kanger coils - have not gotten into the "other" devices :)
 

MattB101

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Yes. I really like two batteries in parallel however. Lasts forever, ok not forever but definitely all day for me. I though that flask looking deal would make a great dual battery mod.

Sent while presently sitting on my .... watching mind numbing prattle on the TV. 257 Channels and nothing on.
 

MattB101

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Posted this over in the modding forums but, thought I would post it here to give my friends a pop at it too. (Didn't want you all to feel neglected. :) Thanks guys....
I am working on designing a box mod. I was wondering, in order to save space I would like to solder the wires directly to the battery rather than use a battery carrier. Is it possible? I was planning on roughing up the terminal ends of the battery, applying flux and using a small butane torch to melt the solder and attach the wire. Planned on the torch to keep from overheating the battery. I think I could solder the wire to the battery rather quickly. There are two things I am concerned about... 1. Cold solder joints and 2. Overheating the battery. Comments and thoughts/guidance please. Thanks in advance.

Sent while presently sitting on my .... watching mind numbing prattle on the TV. 257 Channels and nothing on.
 

MikeE3

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Posted this over in the modding forums but, thought I would post it here to give my friends a pop at it too. (Didn't want you all to feel neglected. :) Thanks guys....
I am working on designing a box mod. I was wondering, in order to save space I would like to solder the wires directly to the battery rather than use a battery carrier. Is it possible? I was planning on roughing up the terminal ends of the battery, applying flux and using a small butane torch to melt the solder and attach the wire. Planned on the torch to keep from overheating the battery. I think I could solder the wire to the battery rather quickly. There are two things I am concerned about... 1. Cold solder joints and 2. Overheating the battery. Comments and thoughts/guidance please. Thanks in advance.

Sent while presently sitting on my .... watching mind numbing prattle on the TV. 257 Channels and nothing on.

I've 'seen' some discussion on this. It's generally accepted that soldering directly to the battery is not a good thing. Factory 'joints' that look like they've been soldered are actually tack welded. It has to be done fast to avoid damaging the battery. That said - many, many people acknowledge 'this' to be correct but solder them anyway, even lipo batts and say they've had no problems. Just like you said - do it 'fast'.
 

MattB101

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I've 'seen' some discussion on this. It's generally accepted that soldering directly to the battery is not a good thing. Factory 'joints' that look like they've been soldered are actually tack welded. It has to be done fast to avoid damaging the battery. That said - many, many people acknowledge 'this' to be correct but solder them anyway, even lipo batts and say they've had no problems. Just like you said - do it 'fast'.

Thanks Mike. I was just qoing to PM you about it. I bow to your expertise. :D

Sent while presently sitting on my .... watching mind numbing prattle on the TV. 257 Channels and nothing on.
 

MikeE3

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Yikes! I'm so out of touch w/ what's available on the e-vapor market. I was at a meeting last night and a friend's son is doing marketing for Marlboro. He gave me a few sample packs of what his son is working on. The starter pack, 1 batt, 1 cartridge, 1 USB charger goes for about $10. A 2 pack of refill carto's goes for $6.99. Holy smokes batman - that would be at least as expensive as buying cigarettes - maybe cigarettes would be cheaper in the long run than $3.50 per carto. The threading is almost '510' but not quite. The carto won't screw onto a 510 PV and a 510 topper won't screw to the MarkTen stick bat.







So this is what the tobacco kings want to take us back to - eh?

PS: It actually doesn't vape too bad for what it is - and the flavor is acceptable too. Actually better than some of the 1st bakky juices I tried when starting out.

PSS: he, he - I googled it and found people 'moding' it. Taking apart the carto and getting a couple refills of it before the atty gives up. Why bother - just throw the whole thing away a get an iStick.
 
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Iffy

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I would like to solder the wires directly to the battery rather than use a battery carrier. Is it possible? I was planning on roughing up the terminal ends of the battery, applying flux and using a small butane torch to melt the solder and attach the wire. Planned on the torch to keep from overheating the battery. I think I could solder the wire to the battery rather quickly. There are two things I am concerned about... 1. Cold solder joints and 2. Overheating the battery. Comments and thoughts/guidance please.

Matt,

May I suggest that you do not attempt such an endeavor. Mike has commented on two great concerns.

Don't know if you read my BIGGER DA BLOB, GREATER DA JOB...NOT posts. But Mike is correct in that direct connections to batts are tack welded, not soldered. Just take a lil' peek into your non-replaceable batt devices and even da batt holder contacts...
looking.gif


Yes, I've been guilty in doing a direct solder job, BUT it was in non-vaping mA applications.


Yikes!

So this is what the tobacco kings want to take us back to - eh?

Yepper, a futurescape given 'bakky monie$ and objective$!
 

MattB101

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Matt,

May I suggest that you do not attempt such an endeavor. Mike has commented on two great concerns.

Don't know if you read my BIGGER DA BLOB, GREATER DA JOB...NOT posts. But Mike is correct in that direct connections to batts are tack welded, not soldered. Just take a lil' peek into your non-replaceable batt devices and even da batt holder contacts...
looking.gif


Yes, I've been guilty in doing a direct solder job, BUT it was in non-vaping mA applications.




Yepper, a futurescape given 'bakky monie$ and objective$!

Good advice I expect. The only thing that even made me consider it is the size of the darn battery trays. I'm trying to build a blivet. Do you know what I mean? (10lbs of s..t in a 5lb sack!) :D
You guys talked me out of it.

Sent while presently sitting on my .... watching mind numbing prattle on the TV. 257 Channels and nothing on.
 

DavidOck

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Good advice I expect. The only thing that even made me consider it is the size of the darn battery trays. I'm trying to build a blivet. Do you know what I mean? (10lbs of s..t in a 5lb sack!) :D
You guys talked me out of it.

Sent while presently sitting on my .... watching mind numbing prattle on the TV. 257 Channels and nothing on.

Don't know if it's even feasible to fit, but maybe a couple appropriately sized pieces of flat bar copper, copper or brass button head screws in the right spots for battery contacts. Leads could be soldered to the bar, of course. :2c:
 

FlamingoTutu

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