Older Folks and Vaping Front Porch - Part 2

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Wolfenstark

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bigbells

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Kind of funny - I roast my own coffee and have never used a scale for that. I know about the finger tapping, but keep forgetting, especially when the pause is because I screwed up and am trying to find the next ingredient.:grr:
I use the scale to weigh out the 454 grams of green beans that I'm going to roast, then after roasting I weigh again to determine the weight loss percentage. For me, that post-roast weighing is a reliable means of verifying the roast level. Then I also use the scale to weigh out 65 grams of roasted whole beans before grinding for the 40 ounce pot that I make. I never grind ahead of time.

The high draw batteries will work just fine in the lower wattage devices however the low wattage batteries WILL NOT work in the high wattage mods.
Can't say I agree with that. Even if I was vaping at the full 30 watts my DNA30 is capable of with a 1.6 ohm coil (I never use less ohms than that), that's only 4.3 amps and no high-draw 18650 battery is needed. I mean, your comment might lead someone to believe that a "normal" battery is incompatible with a high-wattage device. At some point, a normal battery will not be able to supply the amps necessary, but up until that point, the normal battery is going to be just fine. If you try to draw more amps than the battery can supply, it's not going to harm the battery or the device, right?
 
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3mg Meniere

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Nope. It's a dewalt. American instructions and everything. I think the table saws are made in Mexico, but I could be wrong.
My ex, a machinist, used to say that the instructions are written by engineers, who don't know a d------ thing about actually doing stuff. At least I recognized the smell, and dumped my first fill as ruined. Maybe the smell was part of what set off my bad mood last night.
 

MikeE3

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Well, I got my Russian today. I tried a different coil from what I use in my Orchid, but it went wonky twice AFTER putting it together. So I made my standard coil that I use in my Orchid, and it was OK. But it wouldn't draw. I finally realized what the hex key was for, and adjusted the draw. A bit of frustration, but it is going nice, now.

A bit of a leak. Do the wick tails go in the juice channels on this?

It is top-heavy on my Vamo. I don't know if I will get used to that.

hmmm - you need a hex key to adjust the air draw. All 4 of my R91's just require a small slotted screw driver.

The wicks just need to reach the top of the shelf on the deck. Something like this.



Tip: Make sure you tighten the 510 post going to the block for the positive screw. Hold the block tight (I use small flat jawed pliers) and really tighten that 510 screw. That will cut down / eliminate leaking - a somewhat common problem.

If you want to try something interesting with your kayfun or russian, try a vertical coil with the wicking packed (not too tight) around the coil.. pretty dang good!

Yep - a verticle coil can be a really nice vape. You'd think it would flood with the chamber packed w/ wicking - but it doesn't.





Just ordered an Istick for my husband to give me for my birthday. :D

Then I ordered the accoutrements to go with it for El Whacko (the dog) to give me. :lol:

I like the way you operate. :toast:
 

HazyDayz

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Well I ordered my 6 samples from LKA today.
Plush, Peach Impediment, PYMP, 3 Best Jollys, Fruit Bat Delight, and Passionate Tango.

I have a feeling of which ones I will like the best, but has anyone tried any of those? REAL low on juice, can anyone recommend any vendors right now with some specials/good shipping prices? Trying to open up my realm of juices.
 

DavidOck

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Just ordered an Istick for my husband to give me for my birthday. :D

Then I ordered the accoutrements to go with it for El Whacko (the dog) to give me. :lol:

Cool! I have 3 cats (well, they let me tend to their needs. They ARE cats! :laugh: ) So now I can get presents from each of them, too!
 

HazyDayz

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Gourmet Vapor is having one of their periodic sales, 30% off, code gv30

I get a lot of my flavors from them, and while they're not as fast as, say, Mt. Baker, I've never been disappointed.

How long does it take from placing your order to receiving? They're flavors and VG/PG blends that you can tweak really interest me. For $3.46 (after 30%) I don't think you can go wrong but I don't want to wait weeks for some liquid. Lets say I order today (Wednesday)... when is a fair time to expect it?
 

DavidOck

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Probably about a week, IME. They don't blend until ordered, and sometimes they're pretty backed up. But this sale's been on for a week or so, and maybe the rush is over :)

Yep, lots of choices there, and while my last order didn't have child proof caps, the labels have what appears to be all the info the feds may one day require.
 

Iffy

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... Australian gouge tax...

Ouch!
eek.gif
 

MattB101

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I use the scale to weigh out the 454 grams of green beans that I'm going to roast, then after roasting I weigh again to determine the weight loss percentage. For me, that post-roast weighing is a reliable means of verifying the roast level. Then I also use the scale to weigh out 65 grams of roasted whole beans before grinding for the 40 ounce pot that I make. I never grind ahead of time.

Can't say I agree with that. Even if I was vaping at the full 30 watts my DNA30 is capable of with a 1.6 ohm coil (I never use less ohms than that), that's only 4.3 amps and no high-draw 18650 battery is needed. I mean, your comment might lead someone to believe that a "normal" battery is incompatible with a high-wattage device. At some point, a normal battery will not be able to supply the amps necessary, but up until that point, the normal battery is going to be just fine. If you try to draw more amps than the battery can supply, it's not going to harm the battery or the device, right?

True but the overall post was intended as "guidance". Didn't want to include the "math" lesson. It works as a general rule to prevent disasters.

Sent while presently sitting on my .... watching mind numbing prattle on the TV. 257 Channels and nothing on.
 

MattB101

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Cool! I have 3 cats (well, they let me tend to their needs. They ARE cats! :laugh: ) So now I can get presents from each of them, too!

Dogs have owners, cats have staff.

Sent while presently sitting on my .... watching mind numbing prattle on the TV. 257 Channels and nothing on.
 

PapaSloth

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At some point, a normal battery will not be able to supply the amps necessary, but up until that point, the normal battery is going to be just fine. If you try to draw more amps than the battery can supply, it's not going to harm the battery or the device, right?

I'm pretty sure this is incorrect. If you try to draw more amps than the battery is rated for, the battery will try to supply the extra amperage, and internal resistance in the battery will cause it to heat up. The more amperage you draw, and the longer you draw it for, the hotter the battery will get. This causes the fluids in the battery to heat up and expand, causing stress to the battery, and will eventually result in the fluids causing the case to breach, causing your battery to vent. Even if it doesn't breach and vent, you'll still be stressing the battery and damaging it, causing its life to be shortened, and making it more likely that the battery will fail catastrophically in the future. That's why the "pulse" discharge rate is much higher than the "continuous" discharge rate (even though the term "pulse" isn't a standard, and varies from manufacturer to manufacturer).

So don't do that :) Always use a battery whose continuous discharge rate is higher than the amperage you're drawing, including some overhead.
 

Wolfenstark

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How long does it take from placing your order to receiving? They're flavors and VG/PG blends that you can tweak really interest me. For $3.46 (after 30%) I don't think you can go wrong but I don't want to wait weeks for some liquid. Lets say I order today (Wednesday)... when is a fair time to expect it?

I have not tried them yet but I got some juice from ITC Vapes , Nicotiket and Heathers heavenly vapes and they took about 11 days which is fast for me being on the West Coast of Australia. Most take at least 2 weeks or more to get here.
 

Wolfenstark

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Always use a battery whose continuous discharge rate is higher than the amperage you're drawing, including some overhead.

Hi PapaSloth
Is there a way you could put that in terms of batteries to use or does the coil / build your using factor into it ?
If so what about say 1 - 1.5 ohm.
Im getting some 2000mah i think imr and 10amp so if you could make those look good all the better :)
While your answering :D what if the coils were say 0.7 - 1 ohm just to be safe as I'm thinking 1.6 and higher are less taxing on batteries.
 

PapaSloth

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Hi PapaSloth
Is there a way you could put that in terms of batteries to use or does the coil / build your using factor into it ?
If so what about say 1 - 1.5 ohm.
Im getting some 2000mah i think imr and 10amp so if you could make those look good all the better :)
While your answering :D what if the coils were say 0.7 - 1 ohm just to be safe as I'm thinking 1.6 and higher are less taxing on batteries.

The answer is different for a variable wattage device vs. a mech mod.

For a variable wattage device, power in is equal to power out, with some loss for efficiency of the circuitry. If you are putting out 30W, and all of that power is being drawn from a single battery, then that battery must supply 30W of power, plus some overhead. Let's call it 36W figuring a safe 20% efficiency loss. A mostly discharged battery will put out around 3.7V. For a regulated device, which is always trying to draw a fixed wattage, you should calculate A based on a discharged battery, because A will be highest when V is lowest for a fixed wattage. Since W = I * V, we have I = W / V, or I = 36 / 3.7, which is just under 10A. This is right on the limit of what is safe. I think it's probably OK, but I would prefer to have a 15A or 20A battery, just to be on the safe side. If you were trying to put out, say, 50W, then that would be 60W with efficiency loss, and you'd need 60/3.7, which is a little over 16A. So, you'd still be safe with a 20A battery, but would be over-discharging a 10A or 15A battery, which is unsafe.

On the other hand, if you're only drawing 20W, call it 24W with overhead, you'd need 24W/3.7V which is 6.5A. Then, a 10A battery would be perfectly safe.

If your variable wattage device is powered by two batteries instead of one battery, the power is drawn equally from both batteries. So, halve the above A numbers. All of the above is pretty much true for the whole range of resistances, though you might not be able to actually set the device to higher wattages if you have a resistance that's too high. This will vary from regulated device to regulated device.

For a mech mod, the battery will always try to supply between 3.7V and 4.2V (3.7V when it's drained, and 4.2V when it's fully charged). The amps that are drawn from the battery will be inversely proportional to the resistance, since I = V / R. Calculate all I and W values figuring a fully charged battery, because that's where A will be highest. For a 1 Ohm coil, and a battery producing 4.2V, I is 4.2/1 which is 4.2A (4.2V * 4.2A is a little under 18W). For a 1.2 Ohm coil, 4.2/1.2 is only 3.5A, and will produce a little under 15W. If you go all the way down to 0.5 Ohms (not recommended for a Kayfun), you'd be pulling 4.2V/0.5 Ohms which is 8.4A, and is a little over 35W.

So, my recommendation would be to get at least 20A or better continuous discharge batteries. For lower wattages, you're probably safe with a 10A battery, but what if you decide you want more wattage? You'll probably forget that your battery can't handle it, and end up over-discharging your battery. Baditude has a blog that lists safe ratings for a variety of batteries:
Baditude Battery Basics Blog
Pretty much any of the batteries he has in bold are good choices. Be sure to select 18650 batteries if that's what your device needs.

Hope that helps!
 
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MattB101

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The answer is different for a variable wattage device vs. a mech mod.

For a variable wattage device, power in is equal to power out, with some loss for efficiency of the circuitry. If you are putting out 30W, and all of that power is being drawn from a single battery, then that battery must supply 30W of power, plus some overhead. Let's call it 36W figuring a safe 20% efficiency loss. A mostly discharged battery will put out around 3.7V. For a regulated device, which is always trying to draw a fixed wattage, you should calculate A based on a discharged battery, because A will be highest when V is lowest for a fixed wattage. Since W = I * V, we have I = W / V, or I = 36 / 3.7, which is just under 10A. This is right on the limit of what is safe. I think it's probably OK, but I would prefer to have a 15A or 20A battery, just to be on the safe side. If you were trying to put out, say, 50W, then that would be 60W with efficiency loss, and you'd need 60/3.7, which is a little over 16A. So, you'd still be safe with a 20A battery, but would be over-discharging a 10A or 15A battery, which is unsafe.

On the other hand, if you're only drawing 20W, call it 24W with overhead, you'd need 24W/3.7V which is 6.5A. Then, a 10A battery would be perfectly safe.

If your variable wattage device is powered by two batteries instead of one battery, the power is drawn equally from both batteries. So, halve the above A numbers. All of the above is pretty much true for the whole range of resistances, though you might not be able to actually set the device to higher wattages if you have a resistance that's too high. This will vary from regulated device to regulated device.

For a mech mod, the battery will always try to supply between 3.7V and 4.2V (3.7V when it's drained, and 4.2V when it's fully charged). The amps that are drawn from the battery will be inversely proportional to the resistance, since I = V / R. Calculate all I and W values figuring a fully charged battery, because that's where A will be highest. For a 1 Ohm coil, and a battery producing 4.2V, I is 4.2/1 which is 4.2A (4.2V * 4.2A is a little under 18W). For a 1.2 Ohm coil, 4.2/1.2 is only 3.5A, and will produce a little under 15W. If you go all the way down to 0.5 Ohms (not recommended for a Kayfun), you'd be pulling 4.2V/0.5 Ohms which is 8.4A, and is a little over 35W.

So, my recommendation would be to get at least 20A or better continuous discharge batteries. For lower wattages, you're probably safe with a 10A battery, but what if you decide you want more wattage? You'll probably forget that your battery can't handle it, and end up over-discharging your battery. Baditude has a blog that lists safe ratings for a variety of batteries:
Baditude Battery Basics Blog
Pretty much any of the batteries he has in bold are good choices. Be sure to select 18650 batteries if that's what your device needs.

Hope that helps!

Actually Papa, 3.7 volts is the median voltage for our batteries. Maximum (lowest) discharge voltage is actually around 2.5 volts but VV/VW regulated mods cut off the battery discharge at around 3.2 volts to prevent battery damage. No Lithium battery should be discharged to lowest voltage as they can be damaged 4.2 volts is the maximum voltage a battery can be charged to. Calculating amperage requirement at 3.7 volts is ok because your calculating for median voltage however, a quick calculation at minimum voltage is helpful also because as you have shown current draw increases as voltage decreases. Checking at the lower voltage (3.2 volts) is good as it helps prevent overdrawing the current limit as the battery approaches maximum allowable discharge. Sound right?

Sent while presently sitting on my .... watching mind numbing prattle on the TV. 257 Channels and nothing on.
 
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Wolfenstark

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The answer is different for a variable wattage device vs. a mech mod.

For a variable wattage device, power in is equal to power out, with some loss for efficiency of the circuitry. If you are putting out 30W, and all of that power is being drawn from a single battery, then that battery must supply 30W of power, plus some overhead. Let's call it 36W figuring a safe 20% efficiency loss. A mostly discharged battery will put out around 3.7V. For a regulated device, which is always trying to draw a fixed wattage, you should calculate A based on a discharged battery, because A will be highest when V is lowest for a fixed wattage. Since W = I * V, we have I = W / V, or I = 36 / 3.7, which is just under 10A. This is right on the limit of what is safe. I think it's probably OK, but I would prefer to have a 15A or 20A battery, just to be on the safe side. If you were trying to put out, say, 50W, then that would be 60W with efficiency loss, and you'd need 60/3.7, which is a little over 16A. So, you'd still be safe with a 20A battery, but would be over-discharging a 10A or 15A battery, which is unsafe.

Hope that helps!

Is a reg mod always trying to maintain the wattage you set it to regardless of the resistance ?
If I'm getting it right.
Trying to be safe around 1-1.5 ohms waiting on a 30w mod and I would like to think that or a future 20 watt mod will do me. The 0.5-1 ohms is just a safety Q in case i wig out and read the ohm meter wrong or something else.
 
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