Older Folks and Vaping

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umanbean

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Well, it's raining here this morning. In fact just heard on the radio there's a tornado watch for practically all central GA. So I've been playing.

...and keeping an ear out for that "freight train" that tornado victims always mention. :unsure:

I took some pictures of my PVs (with my real camera, not the cellphone this time), used a new-to-me picture editor to crop and resize, and learned several things about ECF website software, including how to insert click-able thumbnail pictures:

Ecigs02.jpg

L-R:

Evod on iTaste VV3
Evod on sigelei #8W (18350 mode)
Gold Protank 1 on brass Sentinel (18650)
Igo-L on Magneto (18350)
Protank 2 on sigelei #20 (18650)
Vamo (18350) w/ 510-Ego adapter

The PV stand is a quickie made from scrap, nothing to brag about... a "prototype" if you will. :)

Think I'll keep the Igo-L on the Magneto in '350 mode, more or less permanently... that'll minimize my anxiety over using the Magneto after "the accident" last weekend.

Now I may go try to figure out how to use above pic for my avatar.

Another NOAA radio alert: Hail and damaging winds on the way. :ohmy:
 

MikeE3

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Well, it's raining here this morning. In fact just heard on the radio there's a tornado watch for practically all central GA. So I've been playing.

...and keeping an ear out for that "freight train" that tornado victims always mention. :unsure:

I took some pictures of my PVs (with my real camera, not the cellphone this time), used a new-to-me picture editor to crop and resize, and learned several things about ECF website software, including how to insert click-able thumbnail pictures:

View attachment 294016

L-R:

Evod on iTaste VV3
Evod on Sigelei #8W (18350 mode)
Gold Protank 1 on brass Sentinel (18650)
Igo-L on Magneto (18350)
Protank 2 on Sigelei #20 (18650)
Vamo (18350) w/ 510-Ego adapter

The PV stand is a quickie made from scrap, nothing to brag about... a "prototype" if you will. :)

Think I'll keep the Igo-L on the Magneto in '350 mode, more or less permanently... that'll minimize my anxiety over using the Magneto after "the accident" last weekend.

Now I may go try to figure out how to use above pic for my avatar.

Another NOAA radio alert: Hail and damaging winds on the way. :ohmy:

Nice collection! Nice stand! Be safe, warm, and dry today. :vapor:
 

MikeE3

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Poll taken! Up to almost 68%. :)

Have a question.....after over a month, I'm still having issues 1st thing in the AM. It's the only time I have a cig craving, when I first get up. Sometimes worse than others, like today. It has actually started making me mad. I'm guessing it's from having no nic thru the night, which I can understand, but when will that go away?
When I quit cold turkey years ago, for 6 solid months, all I thought about from the moment I got up until I went to sleep, was wanting a smoke. It's not that way now, just the first few minutes to an hour, having coffee in the morning.
I wondered if anyone else had this issue and did it go away?

Thanks all!

Deb-NCPatches

Yepper - me too! I was at least a 2 1/2 PPD smoker. That morning one took me a couple month's to put behind me. One thing that helped in the morning was delaying my 1st cup of coffee until I vaped some. The habbit of going straight for the coffee w/ a cig in my mouth was so ingrained after 40+ years, so I just changed it up a bit.

I've just come up with a plan B, lol... my problem is being tied to one place to charge. So a portable USB charger that fits in my purse is a viable option. My question (and I can't figure out volts and watts, etc.) is: Is it safe to charge the Vision Spinners on a portable USB battery charger? Does it matter what volt watt output they have?

Should be no problem and safe to do. Just make sure the mA output of the portable charger is at least as much as your regular charger. If it's higher no problem - it will just charger quicker. If lower it may not charger at all or just take longer.
 

MissMcVayp

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Damn.. the more research I do the more convinced I become that I'm just not smart enough to use a ProVari. In googling and looking to see if I could use my current tanks with it, their recommendations were tubes that didn't even have tanks or mouthpieces and I have no clue what they were, lol. Sometimes they were called cartomizers and sometimes attys but none of them looked like my Kangers and I'm just getting even more lost, lol... Maybe I can find one of those nice yellow books "ProVaris for Dummies" lol lol lol
 

MissMcVayp

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Some of my tanks give a better smoke-look than others (not changing dial on vision spinner), and I was thinking that was the juice. But now it says it might be the coils ohms. So I took out the (very sticky) coil and there is writing on it but damned if I can read it even with my glasses on, lol! Can't find the magnify glass... I don't know if my tanks all have the same coils in them or not. I have one large 2-coil tank but it has a hard time getting smoke/vape, even if I turn up the spinner... so this might be ohms (if I knew what it's ohms are). Perhaps I will just close my eyes and chant "ohmmmm" and receive vape enlightenment...
 

Myrany

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The provari will take any tank with a 510 connection.

If you use a 510/ego adapter such as Adapter Male 510 to eGo Thread - MyFreedomSmokes.com you can also use ego threaded tanks. Most kangers I know are either 510 or ego. In fact I cannot think of one that is not one or the other. :)

It is not as complicated as it all sounds.
 

Myrany

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Some of my tanks give a better smoke-look than others (not changing dial on vision spinner), and I was thinking that was the juice. But now it says it might be the coils ohms. So I took out the (very sticky) coil and there is writing on it but damned if I can read it even with my glasses on, lol! Can't find the magnify glass... I don't know if my tanks all have the same coils in them or not. I have one large 2-coil tank but it has a hard time getting smoke/vape, even if I turn up the spinner... so this might be ohms (if I knew what it's ohms are). Perhaps I will just close my eyes and chant "ohmmmm" and receive vape enlightenment...

ohms are resistance, so think about it like a blocked pipe. The more blocked a pipe is the stronger the water stream has to be to get through the blockage. The more ohms a coil is the more ooopf (voltage) from your device is required to heat it up to vaporize your liquid.

Here is my no math method for handling this on a variable device (spinner, propvari etc).
Set the device to the lowest voltage setting. Screw on your topper (tank). Take a vape. Bump up the voltage one notch and take a vape. Keep bumping it up one notch and taking a vape until you get the first hint of an unpleasant taste then bump it down one notch. Most people prefer to vape at the highest possible setting that gives a good taste.

You do not really need to worry about the math unless you start using mechs. Neither a provari nor a spinner is a mech :)
 

MissMcVayp

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Wow - Ohms really DO make a difference. I never knew what coils are in what head and never thought about it. So today I took two Kanger ProTank Minis, put a 1.8 in one and a 2.5 in the other. Filled both with the exact same juice and vaped both on 4.3 spinner. Holy Cow, Batman... there really was a difference, lol. The 1.8 was flat on smoke/vaper and okay on taste. The 2.5 was great on both taste and vapor and not so hot that it burned my throat.

I also have a Kanger TS3 mini, and that was perfect with a 2.2 at 4.3 volts (maybe even a bit more vapor, but it is also a newer coil)....

So, I have a starting place now, lol. My "Happy Vaping Place" is 2.2 or 2.5 at 4.3 volts. And it seems I can get coils to make all my tanks do that and still use them on the 1300Mah battery I already own, and not have to get into anything that "battery + uninformed blond girl = safety issues".

So now I just have to figure out the charging issues (being in one place for 4 hours at a time on a daily basis, lol)...
 

umanbean

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MissMac, you're on the right track.

Only thing I might mention is that all the batteries, big or small, that power all our devices (mechs, VVW, whatever) charge to a maximum of ~4.2v... but they don't stay there long. With a little use, the volts drop a good bit then almost flatten out... a more gradual drop for a while, then go south pretty quick after a certain point.

Once the battery charge drops below your set voltage (or wattage), a VVW device is "artificially" boosting the voltage, so if your device is trying to deliver 4.2v and the battery has discharged to, say, 3.5v, you're still going to have a drop in performance. IMO, you can't get blood out of a turnip.

Because of this, I use 3.7-4v for my "sweet spot calculations... 1.8-2.2 ohms is, for me, the middle of the road.
 

MissMcVayp

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MissMac, you're on the right track.

Only thing I might mention is that all the batteries, big or small, that power all our devices (mechs, VVW, whatever) charge to a maximum of ~4.2v... but they don't stay there long. With a little use, the volts drop a good bit then almost flatten out... a more gradual drop for a while, then go south pretty quick after a certain point.

Once the battery charge drops below your set voltage (or wattage), a VVW device is "artificially" boosting the voltage, so if your device is trying to deliver 4.2v and the battery has discharged to, say, 3.5v, you're still going to have a drop in performance. IMO, you can't get blood out of a turnip.

Because of this, I use 3.7-4v for my "sweet spot calculations... 1.8-2.2 ohms is, for me, the middle of the road.

My balloon is totally deflated..... (insert depressed, drooping, disillusioned emoticon).... lol Damn, so I'm still looking at the fancy batteries???
 

MikeE3

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My balloon is totally deflated..... (insert depressed, drooping, disillusioned emoticon).... lol Damn, so I'm still looking at the fancy batteries???

puff, puff, puff ... let me help you re-inflate that ballon. The boost circuitry gets more efficient w/ better PV's. A Vamo will be better than a Twist or Spinner, a Sigelei better than a Vamo, a Provari better than a Sigelei, a DNA 20 better than a Provari.

For example - I can set my Provari to 4.0 volts w/ a 1.5Ω topper and get a consistent vape from a freshly charged batt down to about 3.4-3.5 volts. My Sigelei Zmax, trying the same thing - I can tell when the batt gets down around 3.5-3.6 volts - the vape begins to drop off.
 

Uncle Willie

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I have 1 ProVari mini that I like a lot, but I won it so it didn't cost me. It was my first "big" PV and wasn't sure I'd like it, but it took no time at all to become the one I carry all the time. Then Mike got me a Segelei ZMax Mini and now I have 2 of them. Much cheaper and seems to be very well made. I now have 2 of them. After awhile I bought JWraps for them and now they're all dressed up and beautiful!

I'm giving thought once again to a mech .. someone has this on eBay

Brand New Sigelei Telescope Mechanical Mod Stainless Steel Zmax | eBay

the price looks good .. ??
 

MikeE3

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I'm tempted by this SS TELESCOPIC (mini/med/maxi).
angel-devil_zpse4af2119.gif

If you trust Fastech to be selling a genuine product - that's a nice PV. What was nice about the Sig-mini-Z co-op, it came with end caps, one for 18350 and one for 18490/500 in addition fo an extension tube for 18650 batts. The additional cap/tube isn't offered by any of the vendors selling the Sigelei Z-max mini. Makes it quite versatile.
 

Iffy

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I'm giving thought once again to a mech .. someone has this on eBay

the price looks good .. ??

Not a bad price with the free shipping.

Must ask, have you used a bottom switch PV? I have and it's not my 'cup o' vape'. I much prefer an upper semi-recessed button.

Some folk love the bottom switch (mech or magnetic). Many have had to mod the switch to ease the switch pressure without firing the PV when stood on end.

I currently use a SIGELEI #20 with a Sigelei Kick in the 18350 config. Nice lil' package for out n' about. The linked vendor also provides free shipping.

Let us know what ya get and good luck!
 
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