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I notice my ejuice gets darker in the stardust over time. It may have happened in other devices also, but they were not clear to see the darkening.
Is it just from heating the liquid or from a reaction to the plastic? Noticed it with gummy bear & caramel apple. Doesn't affect the taste, just made me curious if something bad was happening.
Is it just from heating the liquid or from a reaction to the plastic? Noticed it with gummy bear & caramel apple. Doesn't affect the taste, just made me curious if something bad was happening.
I've noticed this in several of my tanks, I believe it's just from the carto heating the juice. I haven't really noticed it in the Stardust, maybe because they're smaller and I go through the juice faster?
Heat may cause it. Oxidation of the Nicotine is also a Factor.
But I notice that as the Coil/Wick starts to "Gunk Up" with Black Gunk, that the e-Liquid in the Carto becomes Darker.
Over time the coils get gunked up with burnt liquid, causing any lighter liquid in the tank to turn dark. Doing daily rinses on the stardusts seems to help cut down on that somewhat.
When are the Visions for the Gripper VV coming in different ohms. I have to admit, this thing is pretty tiny. Just love the size! Easy to take everywhere!
Review should be up either tonight or tomorrow.
My remaining 3 Stardust units have started to develop cracks in the lower part of the tank.
The first one was rendered useless by Johnson Creek Solstice, the remaining 3 have Bobas Bounty, Ikenvape RY4 and a mix of the COV cherry/EcoPure juices in them.
It looks like the rate of cracking will have these 3 units retired within a week or so.
Wondering if anyone else has experienced this cracking issue, can't imagine I'm the only one being there's a few thousand in use, I just haven't read all posts yet. Even with this issue I'll be sticking with these, I'll just have to keep a few more on hand, the convienience factor is very nice.
The first one was rendered useless by Johnson Creek Solstice, the remaining 3 have Bobas Bounty, Ikenvape RY4 and a mix of the COV cherry/EcoPure juices in them.
It looks like the rate of cracking will have these 3 units retired within a week or so.
Wondering if anyone else has experienced this cracking issue, can't imagine I'm the only one being there's a few thousand in use, I just haven't read all posts yet. Even with this issue I'll be sticking with these, I'll just have to keep a few more on hand, the convienience factor is very nice.
You can see the 2 slight cracks working their way up on the left side. I'm very late to the Stardust party, so sorry if this has already been beat to death, I'm sure it'll get worked out, hopefully with the LR units that'll be waiting for me when I return home, i've been working in India for the last 10 days, the Stardust has saved me a ton of hassle while here.
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Actually you can do Dwolla now. I haven't made a big announcement yet as I wanted to personally test (my bank deposit hasn't cleared yet, not until tomorrow) the return to the site after you hit confirm order but it should work if you want to give it a go...
Once you enter your Dwolla ID you are taken to the confirm page and on that page you will see where you enter the key code they will have sent you right away in your email. Go to your email, copy the code and paste it in that field, then confirm...
Once you enter your Dwolla ID you are taken to the confirm page and on that page you will see where you enter the key code they will have sent you right away in your email. Go to your email, copy the code and paste it in that field, then confirm...
Try painting a thin coat of glue, something like gorilla glue or ecomod glue around the base. If it isn't leaking it might keep it from spreading and happening.
I've had the coils on 2 of these fail after washing out, lifting the silicone cup and dry-burning, letting the coil go red for no more than 3 seconds at a time. I know they are rebuildable, but I don't have the time to do that.
Any suggestions for a safer cleaning method that will still degunk the coil without destroying it???
Any suggestions for a safer cleaning method that will still degunk the coil without destroying it???
I DO NOT take out the cup. I figure it is much too risky for me. So you might try doing it that way.
I only lift the cup, not take it out. Been afraid the bottom of the cup would singe.
wwturner,
I would suggest cleaning them more often, especially if you use juices that tend to gunk up coils. If the coil is gunked up right in the middle it may end up burning much more hotter than the rest of the coil and will cause it to fail.
I would suggest cleaning them more often, especially if you use juices that tend to gunk up coils. If the coil is gunked up right in the middle it may end up burning much more hotter than the rest of the coil and will cause it to fail.
there is a simple way to do all this dry burning, you dont have to dry burn to remove the gunk in the old way, there is another way but i dont discuss it becuase i dont want newbies burning themselves, but you can get a butane torch lighter, has to be a torch type where it shoots the flame out hard and thin stream.
then you can burn the gunk off that way but be careful when doing so, im making a few videos tonight ill fit this one in
then you can burn the gunk off that way but be careful when doing so, im making a few videos tonight ill fit this one in
clean up with torch ? sounds interesting. :- ) might be faster than dry bruning. will wait for video on this !.
Badkolo - thanks for all your efforts to make vaping a better experience for all of us on the ECF.
I've been hearing that dry burns shorten the life of the coil - is that true and is there a better alternative?
Also, Does your new solvent (420-like from Canadian Bell labs) disolve the gunk from coils without requireing a dry-burn?
If so, when do you think you'll get it in stock? If not, how is it better than straight alcohol?
Finally, you mentioned that you are talking to the manufacturer about making easily replaceable parts for the stardust available (wicks,coils in different resistances, silicon parts, plastic tube, metal tube toppers, driptubes) - how is that coming along? Any idea when that might drop or is it just talking at this stage? Are they still looking at the stardust as a disposable/consumable item?
Thanks again.
I've been hearing that dry burns shorten the life of the coil - is that true and is there a better alternative?
Also, Does your new solvent (420-like from Canadian Bell labs) disolve the gunk from coils without requireing a dry-burn?
If so, when do you think you'll get it in stock? If not, how is it better than straight alcohol?
Finally, you mentioned that you are talking to the manufacturer about making easily replaceable parts for the stardust available (wicks,coils in different resistances, silicon parts, plastic tube, metal tube toppers, driptubes) - how is that coming along? Any idea when that might drop or is it just talking at this stage? Are they still looking at the stardust as a disposable/consumable item?
Thanks again.
first off, thank you.
dry burns will shorten the life but as many here can attest too and many old timers here, if done properly it can be repeated many times with no issue but of coarse even a good looking coil can pop early..
dont blow on your coil when dry burning.
I think using the butane method retains more of the coils life even though your heating it from an external source but i think that what also preserves it longer.
As to the solvent, yes it does, in 5 minutes the gunk breaks apart and off, then after washing it off a little quick burst just for the kick of it and its good to go, the issue is the solvent was still residuey and takes a long good clean to remove it, very soapy even after they lightened it for me, they did email and say they will attempt 2 more samples, i even sent them a few cartos so they see what i mean by being to residuey, while this is ok for experienced users, we cant sell it if its to residuey, it needs to clean off easy, which i do believe is possible and they will get there.
dry burns will shorten the life but as many here can attest too and many old timers here, if done properly it can be repeated many times with no issue but of coarse even a good looking coil can pop early..
dont blow on your coil when dry burning.
I think using the butane method retains more of the coils life even though your heating it from an external source but i think that what also preserves it longer.
As to the solvent, yes it does, in 5 minutes the gunk breaks apart and off, then after washing it off a little quick burst just for the kick of it and its good to go, the issue is the solvent was still residuey and takes a long good clean to remove it, very soapy even after they lightened it for me, they did email and say they will attempt 2 more samples, i even sent them a few cartos so they see what i mean by being to residuey, while this is ok for experienced users, we cant sell it if its to residuey, it needs to clean off easy, which i do believe is possible and they will get there.
Here's the deal with dry burning these.
If the cup is still in place, you can't see ALL of the resistance wire. Where it will pop first is the area that is not actually wrapped around the wick, and is dry even if the wick is wet. The little ends that extend down from the wick to the contact points.
What I do with ones that I have not yet taken apart, and want to dry burn, is after rinsing out, fire in 2-3 second burst until I see smoke start to form in the cup. I then take it into a darkened room and fire in short burst, no more than 2 seconds, stop, blow out the smoke in the cup AFTER letting it cool a few seconds so I can see inside and repeat 4-5 times stopping just when the coil begins to glow.
Chris. How would one burn the coil with a lighter without melting the silicone ring that is just below the coils inside the airway? That would be the preferred method, but I can't see how it can be done without melting that inner ring since it is so close to the wick.
If the cup is still in place, you can't see ALL of the resistance wire. Where it will pop first is the area that is not actually wrapped around the wick, and is dry even if the wick is wet. The little ends that extend down from the wick to the contact points.
What I do with ones that I have not yet taken apart, and want to dry burn, is after rinsing out, fire in 2-3 second burst until I see smoke start to form in the cup. I then take it into a darkened room and fire in short burst, no more than 2 seconds, stop, blow out the smoke in the cup AFTER letting it cool a few seconds so I can see inside and repeat 4-5 times stopping just when the coil begins to glow.
Chris. How would one burn the coil with a lighter without melting the silicone ring that is just below the coils inside the airway? That would be the preferred method, but I can't see how it can be done without melting that inner ring since it is so close to the wick.
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