pdib LIBRARY: tech/specs/info

[reoluvr]

also , In the video youre turning the white screw , i know thats addressed in the instructions but what exactly is the purpose of that?

 

[pdib]

I like the reggae music in the vid. How do i adjust the 510 connection? my atty isnt screwing down all the way flush onto the top plate

On the atty, I had set up the distance from atty base to top of mod so as to fit an O-ring between the atty bottom and the drip dish (drip well). O-ring in the drip dish area is good, it keeps the e-liquid where you want it . . .. makes a nice seal. You should have 4 sizes of small O-rings to choose from. The +510 connection on the bottom of atties varies, so you'll need to find the O-ring that just snugs up as you finish seating the atty.

The 510 can be adjusted; but not with a snap of the fingers. It takes full disassembly of the 510+post, the juice feed system, and the nuts and BeCu Leaf Contact. (i.e. try the O-rings, as designed )

 

[pdib]

also , In the video youre turning the white screw , i know thats addressed in the instructions but what exactly is the purpose of that?

The white nylon screw is a non-conductive spacer. It pushes/locates the BeCu Leaf Contact firmly against the brass (+) centerpost. Too far out in adjustment, and the top will not seat properly. Too far in, and the connection will be poor/spotty/weak/nonexistent. Although the BeCu Leaf may still make contact without adjustment; it may not, or may result in a weak vape.

I set up all mods for best contact before shipping. Perhaps extreme changes in temperature during shipping will cause some shift; but there really should be no need for more than a tweak, were that the case.

 

[pdib]

little option on Richlite color. Another dark neutral color for those who want it a little warmer than black . . . .. calling it "Slate"


http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...11889-pdibs-making-mods-266.html#post12190060 ← some more about this here







images will take you to pho-buck album

 

[Borescoped]

Glad you started this thread also, great info here!


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[pdib]

Posted this in the other thread. About stabilized:

Sadly, even talking to me doesn't always guarantee a viable blank. But I am developing a growing list of guidelines as we go. So you're definitely better off checking with me before buying a piece. I don't mind a link, and a "how's this look?". Today, we ascertained that the stabilizing process doesn't override the inherent weakness in straight grained wood that splits easily to begin with. I'm talking about yer conifers. Imagine someone splitting firewood; from Fir, Cedar, Redwood, etc.

Burls are great. Closed cell stabilization is great. Open cell is pro'ly fine for body only.

I'm still learning on what all kinds of stuff people impregnate material with when they stabilize. It appears there's no set rule.

The materials that have come through my shop so far have been:

Hard and solid (like bakelite). . . .. ←I think that's the "Type A"/closed cell; but also the wood (very hard, dense), and maybe the "stabilizer" material.
Hard and brittle (like Mica, or glass) . . . . .. (typeA . . .? but inherently weak wood)
Hard but amorphous and not resilient (like chalk) . . .. ← I think this is the "type B"/open cell. But it could also be the substance used for stabilizing.

I've also read where stabilization happens under vacuum, and then heat and pressure. I wonder if the first example was full meal deal; whereas the last was vacuum only.


Most of the fruitwoods and exotics I work with (in-house, natural, body only) are resilient by nature. Even if they aren't always the hardest woods, they're up to the task. Mostly, I'm working with woods that have proven themselves out in my decades of custom furniture making and functional sculpture.

 

[pdib]

And turbocad6 posted this soon after:

the vacuum chamber is to remove all air from a piece of wood as it is submerged in the stabilizing resin, and in doing so all of the air that is removed leaves a void that is just naturally filled by the resin. once the wood is fully impregnated it is then cured. many of the resins used in the wood stabilizing process is heat cured, meaning it will stay tacky and uncured until it is heated to it's reaction point.

there are other resins that are instead of heat cure, they are reactive cure. this would be when a curing agent(hardener) is mixed with the base resin and then it chemically reacts and cures no matter what, even at room temperature. the drawback to this type is that it usually cures too fast, the vacuum process can sometimes take a while and a resin that starts curing once it's mixed isn't nearly as easy to work with as a resin that stays liquid until you force it to cure with heat. I don't know enough to say anything with conclusive certainty, but I believe that an A/B reactive mixed resin will be stronger and more "epoxy" like than a heat cured single part product. it's like the difference between a 2 part urethane clearcoat with hardener vs a single component spray can clear coat.

I was considering stabilizing my own wood, so I can control the process and use a good A/B epoxy resin but in the end decided to just say screw it and went with pre stabilized. luckily it worked out well... so far at least

 

[pdib]

So, I talked a bit with Mark, from BurlSource. This is the first place I'd recommend. His customer service is excellent. He offers only the best quality stabilized, and he's got it together. So, shop here . . ..

Burl Source Knife Handle Wood

Here's some pertinent tidbits from a recent email I got from him.

I took a few minutes and looked over your thread

Any of your customers who have a question if a piece is suitable are welcome to email me at burlsource@gmail.com. That is better than a phone call because when I am reading the email I am at the computer and can check on the piece in question.

So, ↑↑ he took the time to see what we are doing with his materials, and offered to help anyone who's shopping on his site. He even asked me for the dimensions I need.

I would stay away from woods like redwood, walnut, oak and heavily spalted woods even when stabilized.
The woods I provide are ones that are structurally suitable for knife handle material.
But there are a lot that would work well for your projects.
Ones that I thing would work best are #1 Maple, then Koa, Mango, Bubinga and Amboyna.

As for stabilizers. Avoid any do it yourself stabilizers because they can not get the results like the pros. I used to do my own stabilizing for a couple years but the quality was never as good as what I am able to get from K&G. My advice would be to only use wood stabilized by K&G or WSSI. Just my opinion but in the knife world they are thought of as the 2 best.

 

[wongster360]

Here's me rocking mine like 10 minutes out of the box.

I actually even built 2 coils before I got to hit it. The first one came in at 1.7 so I wound another with a few less wraps and got this here 1.3 ohm micro coil in there

It is a most amazing mod from a craftsmanship, ingenuity and vapability standpoint. Love it.
http://youtu.be/Alj3dEs5YnM

This is what John Cena would look like if he vaped


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[pdib]

just walking by and seem to have dropped this . . . . ..

So, more fun facts from Mark.

Buckeye and Box Elder should become very hard when stabilized.
With buckeye burl you need to watch out for pieces with bark pockets (very common with buckeye) because those will be weak points. With Box Elder watch out for pieces with voids. Box Elder is in the Acer family which is the parent family for all the varieties of maple. It is softer than the other maples but accepts stabilizing very well. Plus when dyed gets cool contrasts where it resists the dye.

 

[MasterofNone]

Here's a little video of me setting up (well, re-setting up a set-up mod that I un-set-up so I could "set it up" on video) a mod. It pretty much describes in moving pictures what I had written above re: adjustments/troubleshooting.

MOD SETUP:

Just realized this video was done with my Lily. Awww lol


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[pdib]

Just a sort of a cross-linky thingie . . ..

If anyone wants to jump to the part of the FAT thread where run#1 was getting rolled out . . . . .pics of those mods are smattered and scattered in the subsequent pages. (hint: stop when you get to 10)

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...11889-pdibs-making-mods-143.html#post12039931



I'll try and do the same with run#2.

 

[donnah]

Bumping this back up...They're beautiful! Suppose I got one the list now...what is the eta?

 

[pdib]

Hi donnah! I was hoping you'd pop in some day.







errrrrrrrrr . . . . . I'm embarassed to say . . . . . .. October? . . . November?

 

[donnah]

Hi donnah! I was hoping you'd pop in some day.







errrrrrrrrr . . . . . I'm embarassed to say . . . . . .. October? . . . November?

I've been watching these and am so happy for your success! I'm actually glad that it'll be that long... will give me time to save up LOL. I'll send an official PM

 

[pdib]

Pics of run#2 start here . . . . .

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...11889-pdibs-making-mods-438.html#post12522090

 

[ValHeli]

just wanted to post Pdib's recommendation here regarding suitable woods. This serves as reference only. The best way is to contact him first when buying your own.

the bog oak is not recommended for caps. Curly maple is not so questionable that I won't try it a few times. I feel pretty good about it; but don't know for sure. Elder burls are rather soft (at least all the ones I've played with). I don't think I've taken a box elder through with caps yet. I know I've had to bail on caps with a couple of them already.

Best bet for caps are the stabilized burl wood of Maple, Amboyna. Likely candidates are other dense burls and some stabilized exotics . . . but look, if all the little grain lines go up and down in a thing that's 1/4" tall and 1x2" across, it's gonna be prone to splitting. And machine screw threads don't take well to a vertical fiber that's incised every 1/32" of an inch (by the threads). I've got a couple of stabilized curly maples in this next batch. They are OKed for a Richlite default, or Richlite is preferred. I'll know more when I'm done with this run.

A lot of the stuff you're swinging at me is out of my range of experience, VH. I'm willing to try it, so we'll just see.

 

[pdib]

couple of little tiny changes/improvements here. One is the nylon washer I install before shipping (under the bottom cap battery contact) will now be cut away like this. This is so that, if you get yer mod and your battery is too long, you can loosen the big contact screw and push that nylon washer out (hopefully without disassembling the whole connection there) . . . . .. . hypothetically.

The other is, for the sake of more contact area and better conductivity, I'm turning/machining a little waist under the head of the smaller contact screw. This allows me to snug a U-shape under it, vs just a smaller tab (of the fuse leg). So, this is also a picture of the new shape that I make the fuses (in case you want to follow along at home)

The one thing to watch out for is that the tip of the U-shape that is the left bottom most part of the fuse in the picture CAN'T be sticking out. If it does, one need nip that corner/end off until it seats completely under the screw. Elsewise your cap won't snug to your body. (that negative space ↑ between the magnet and the small screw contact needs to look like nothing but black)

 

[pdib]

The other changes that have been developing are that I'm now offering some luxury add-ons, upgrades, betterments, subΩer's candy, shizzle . . . .. .

Solid Sterling Silver contact screw with low profile brass nut. This is the make/break contact for the fire button/battery. Good stuff.

And Silver coated Beryllium Copper spring (conducts current) for the fire button.

These are both handmade by yours truly. They take a little time and cost a few bucks.

Ask for them by name "Sterling" and "Ag/BeCu" spring.

 

[pdib]

ok, so pics of RUN#3 start here . . ..

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...11889-pdibs-making-mods-800.html#post12963797