PDIB's Making MODs!

[SLIPPY_EEL]

my condolences my friend

 

[pdib]

OK, so I started that thread with the tech/info. I just basically barfed up a million things. I wanted to ask some of my more knowledgeable and experienced friends to contribute. Here's a couple things that I would love some help with.

how bottom feeding works.

how to squonk. (incl. peeking in the atty and seeing whats happening)

which atties folks tend to use for bf

how a bottom feeding atty is different

how to modify an atty

how and why the space shuttle (or any falling matter) heats up upon re-entry

whether home grown chicken eggs really taste any different from store bought.

Also, as time passes, I'd love to see pics of various atties on your mods, to help folks get an idea of what it may look like.

No hurry on any of this stuff, just putting it out there and asking.


TIA!

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...orum/524238-pdib-library-tech-specs-info.html

 

[Katdarling]

Congratulations, Mr. Dibi-ness. Subscribed to the new tech thread.

i have a bkluetioioth mac keybioard,.,.,.,. damn!
anybiody kniow why when i press o and l i have a k ior i befiiore each respectivekly?

what a day its been,.,.,. ioh niow the ,. (periiod ,.) has a , befiore it,. KLIOKL

Ummmmmmm....

Waiter.

I'll have what he's having.

 

[cecsystems]

So... The Oliver is available in 2 flavors for the 510 connection. One is Brass and the other is SS, I understand that the Brass one has significantly greater conductivity than the SS one which conversely is more durable if you change attys a lot. That said there has been some talk of the potential of lead? leeching when brass is in contact with our juice, obviously not a concern with the SS. So what have most of us decided with regard to this "choice"? Have you chosen safety, durability, aesthetics or conductivity as your driving factor?

Personally; due to the color of the flecks of burl that are in my "piece of wood" I will throw caution to the wind and choose the brass both for the conductivity and color/eventual patina... and I don't believe that I will be changing attys that often? Wicks, YES! attys not so much...

Comments?

 

[ratchet62]

OK, so I started that thread with the tech/info. I just basically barfed up a million things. I wanted to ask some of my more knowledgeable and experienced friends to contribute.
.....SNIP.....

whether home grown chicken eggs really taste any different from store bought.

.....SNIP

Yay. I'm more knowledgeable and experienced on this one!

With out a doubt, home grown eggs really taste different from store bought. Better in so many ways.

 

[Megan Kogijiki Ratchford]

So... The Oliver is available in 2 flavors for the 510 connection. One is Brass and the other is SS, I understand that the Brass one has significantly greater conductivity than the SS one which conversely is more durable if you change attys a lot. That said there has been some talk of the potential of lead? leeching when brass is in contact with our juice, obviously not a concern with the SS. So what have most of us decided with regard to this "choice"? Have you chosen safety, durability, aesthetics or conductivity as your driving factor?

Personally; due to the color of the flecks of burl that are in my "piece of wood" I will throw caution to the wind and choose the brass both for the conductivity and color/eventual patina... and I don't believe that I will be changing attys that often? Wicks, YES! attys not so much...

Comments?

I didn't want to have to buff up the brass so chose SS because I'm not going to be sub-ohming so that will last longer and be fine for my needs.

 

[pdib]

Well, let me throw a comment out there, even tho it's just me. The lead in brass hardware is like tiny little globules that are put there on purpose to act as a lubricant in the machining process. They are exposed and broken open in the machining of the part. Once the part (screw for example) is shaped, there is a surface residue of lead left on it. This surface lead has been shown (in a lab) to be completely removed by a solution of 1pt Hydrogen Peroxide and 2pts Household Vinegar. The lead that is trapped inside of the part (that was never exposed to the surface) doesn't squirm around in there. It is "cast in metal", quite literally. Lead doesn't "migrate" to the surface. The little tiny globules are perfectly content to stay right where they sit . . .. and, if they find themselves confronted with a strong compulsion to "move about" . . .. they quickly realize that they are, in fact, pretty much encased in a solid metal prison.

I treat all brass parts in such a solution. It turns blue (like leaded glass). I'm fastidious about it. I do it last thing before install. Well, I do it second to last. Last is to wash all those parts in hot soapy water and squeeze hot soapy . . . then rinsing . . . . water through them with a syringe.

just my



so, basically, you both have covered it very well. The SS is great for durability and low maintenance. The Brass is good for better conductivity.

 

[supertrunker]

There's too little lead in it to bother about and there is not that significant a difference in voltage drop as evidenced in comparing an SS v aluminium mod.

Stainless Vs Aluminum Loaded Test - YouTube

T

 

[EagleTa2]

I'm a long time lurker on this thread...have been here from the beginning and haven't pulled the trigger on a dibi. Something about how SWMBO running for the rusty kitchen shears to remove my... I am getting off track.

Its likely too late, but I was in a plumbing conundrum for the last couple days. I just couldn't continue without offering my deepest sympathy to Alex Mundy on the loss of his father. My thoughts and prayers will be with you and your family while you endure your loss. I hope you're well.

Thanks,
Geo

 

[pdib]

There's too little lead in it to bother about and there is not that significant a difference in voltage drop as evidenced in comparing an SS v aluminium mod.

Stainless Vs Aluminum Loaded Test - YouTube

T

Yeah, I've mentioned before, it's really just a conductivity issue for those "enthusiasts" of lower v-drop. I will say tho, that my anecdotal experience is leading me to think there's a difference. don't forget that the body of a mod is a lot of material compared to a ~2.5mm diam. tube with ~1.4mm drilled out of the center of it. Conductivity of materials becomes more pertinent with volume of material, distance traveled by current and etc. If we did tests on materials the thickness of a hair, I'm sure we'd see big differences.

 

[MasterofNone]

That's... What... She... Said?




I dunno why this is my go to lately lol

 

[supertrunker]

I am willing to be corrected on this, but it's always been my understanding that the springs and switches were the main causes of that drop, rather than the material a connector is made from.
By which i mean if you run 24g copper wire as wiring in a wooden mod, then the 510 makes negligible difference compared to other sources of loss.

Oh, i saw this rubbish today, and it's totally unrelated to any of this - i think it's the new Dibi dance!
Kayden + Rain | Little Girl Experiences Her First Rainfall - YouTube

T

 

[pdib]

good to know you're in the "cuties n' fuzzies" network, Trunks

 

[ValHeli]

OK, so I started that thread with the tech/info. I just basically barfed up a million things. I wanted to ask some of my more knowledgeable and experienced friends to contribute. Here's a couple things that I would love some help with.

how bottom feeding works.

how to squonk. (incl. peeking in the atty and seeing whats happening)

which atties folks tend to use for bf

how a bottom feeding atty is different

how to modify an atty

how and why the space shuttle (or any falling matter) heats up upon re-entry

whether home grown chicken eggs really taste any different from store bought.

Also, as time passes, I'd love to see pics of various atties on your mods, to help folks get an idea of what it may look like.

No hurry on any of this stuff, just putting it out there and asking.


TIA!

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...orum/524238-pdib-library-tech-specs-info.html

this is a job for... SUPE X !! ..he can do everthying in one leap with a single vid.

 

[pdib]

Your example shows us that there's more constriction in the thin thin wire than the copious contact area of the 510 connection. Not so much that the roles these materials play (connection or conductive path) dictate their effectiveness. There is however the idea that the circuit is only as good as it's worst element. The 510 connection (generally speaking) really isn't half bad. I did an experiment with a Pseudo Hybrid setup on the REO (grand, aluminum body). The Grand was raw aluminum, I had made a nest of twisted copper wire in the base of the drip well upon which the atty base was seated (as well as full contact in the 510). Furthermore, I ran a band of copper straight from the aluminum body to the negative post of the atty. This atty was seriously grounded to the mod. I got no better voltage under load than just the atty in the 510.

During that same setup, I had replaced the Positive post of the atty and the 510+post with a single, continuous brass tube; running from the coil to the firing pin. No improvement over the existing brass connections (atty and 510 positive posts making contact with each other). I also tried an SS "through" post. Single unit; coil to firing pin. It sucked dirt. Major difference in v-drop.

Also, I've been checking these mods for satisfactory "going out the door" status with a voltage under load test (averaging .3-.32V dropped @ .4-.5Ω). I've had a couple instances where I was losing about .02-.05V . . . . . always with an SS 510+post. It's not definitive, and it's not 100% confirmed. But I've been doing repeated tests with the same batteries and same type mods, and I'm forming this anecdotal impression.

This amount of v-drop is basically negligible. Like I said, only of interest to "enthusiasts". But the fact is, brass has something like double the conductivity that SS has.

 

[pdib]

lookie here.

bronze and steel are about the same.

 

[pdib]

Oh . . . .lookie here.

Myth Busters: Stainless Steel Conductivity
There seems to be some questions and mis-information floating around on the conductivity of stainless steel and suitability for use in mod's.

First, yes, stainless steel is not as conductive as many metals, but the part many have left out of the equation in their haste to quote (yet not understand) metal resistiance charts, is it's conductivity is dependent upon length the current has to travel. It is NOT A FIXED resistor as the resitance goes up with the length the electricity has to travel through said material. Shorter distances equals less total resistance!

In our PV's, the distance the electricity has to travel (very short) and the gauge of material it is flowing through (large), makes stainless steel an excellent candidate for use in PV's. Futher more, it is more corrosion and scratch resistant (less polishing) has much greater tensile and hardness ratings compared to aluminum (superior thread strippage resistance) and, since one can run a much thinner wall thickness when using stainless without sacrificing strength, it can often times weigh the same or less then some comparable aluminum mods.

Other ways i address this conductive issue in the new Precise line so it is not an issue:

First, the positive current in the Precise line of mods does NOT flow through the stainless steel. The center post on the Precise is made of Brass, not stainless steel, and directly connects the battery to the atomizer, thus no significant electrical loss.

Second, the negative current is conducted through the body, but the body size, gauge and electrical path distance is sufficient/short enough to carry the low voltage and amperage that PV's produce.

Third, on the battery to switch contact, both the new Precise 16340 and Precise 18650 have a custom machined 4 prong brass contact post.

Demonstration video of Aluminum/Brass Vs. Stainless Steel Conductivity and why either is equally suitable in PV applications though i believe the nod goes to stainless for it's superior scratch and corrosion resistance as well as a much greater resistance to thread strippage:

YouTube - Stainless Vs Aluminum Loaded Test [←and that's your link, Trunks. and this ↑ is where it came from ↓]

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...stainless-steel-conductivity.html#post1503365

 

[Megan Kogijiki Ratchford]

My Dibi should be here today!!! (Insert massive Dibi dancing here...)

 

[ValHeli]

My Dibi should be here today!!! (Insert massive Dibi dancing here...)

OOOHHH..... OOOOHHHH....... DID I JUST HEAR ... DIBI DANCE TIME????

 

[Megan Kogijiki Ratchford]

Thanks val! Just what I was meaning...