PDIB's Making MODs!

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super_X_drifter

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Ummm oliveR by pdib with a cyclone. Damn. Thanks Peter.

Unbelievable.

That was just a quick pic. Now I gotta set it up to vape it :)

buy with confidence. This mod is a beast and the craftsmanship is top top tip top shelf :)
 

SeaNap

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No thanks necessary, I'm glad everything is working out so well for you! Anyway your the Mod Genius who put it all together so nicely!

I know that the Oliver is going to be around for a long time, so thats why I threw out the 3-5 year thing :D. I dont fiddle much with my mod, except when experimenting w/ my REO, but there is really nothing to experiment with on the oliver that I can tell from the pics. 99% of the time I never take my RM2 outa my REO, only for deep cleans like once a month. I build everything with it connected, and since you have a beryllium copper firing pin I'll never have to mess with taking that off and on, so I really can't see my self messing with it a lot.

As far as V-drop, that .02-.05 isn't that big of a concern. I'm sure that can be made up by replacing the fuse with the copper bar, if I'm ever so inclined. Decisions Decisions... Either way will be great.

Edit: Wow supe that looks FANTASTIC with the cyclone on there. Will be waiting for the video review :pop:
 
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jasl90

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So... The Oliver is available in 2 flavors for the 510 connection. One is Brass and the other is SS, I understand that the Brass one has significantly greater conductivity than the SS one which conversely is more durable if you change attys a lot. That said there has been some talk of the potential of lead? leeching when brass is in contact with our juice, obviously not a concern with the SS. So what have most of us decided with regard to this "choice"? Have you chosen safety, durability, aesthetics or conductivity as your driving factor?

Personally; due to the color of the flecks of burl that are in my "piece of wood" I will throw caution to the wind and choose the brass both for the conductivity and color/eventual patina... and I don't believe that I will be changing attys that often? Wicks, YES! attys not so much...

Comments?
Two things that probably need to be clarified...
1) All of the 510 connectors are brass (the outer part with the threading). They're either chrome plated or not. pdib isn't making these himself (at least not the 1st rounds that have come out so far).
It's the center pin that is either brass or SS...

2) While it's true, polished brass is as bit more conductive than SS, oxidized brass is WAY less conductive than SS. So... Unless to plan on sanding and/or polishing the center pin on a daily basis, SS will be more conductive in this particular application.

Also note... pdib mentioned in an earlier post that he treats all brass parts in a hydrogen peroxide/vinegar solution to remove any surface lead... Sanding or polishing the brass will expose new layers of the brass and new lead (if it exists).
 

SeaNap

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Correct you are J,

I had the same thought process, it's just hard to decide. You shouldnt sand or use abrasive to clean up tarnish, just soak it in a solution of baking soda and vinegar and wipe with a rag. After mulling it over, I think I have come back around to my original request of using SS. (jeeze I can be wishy washy when decisions are left to me)
 
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jasl90

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Yea... Considering the application, SS was kind on a no-brainier for for me. The chrome plating on both of my Provaris center pins has worn off. I now have to sand them on a fairly regular basis. It's a PITA. SS just makes more sense... Especially after having to deal with the maintenance & upkeep of exposed brass.
 

pdib

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Two things that probably need to be clarified...
1) All of the 510 connectors are brass (the outer part with the threading). They're either chrome plated or not. pdib isn't making these himself (at least not the 1st rounds that have come out so far).
It's the center pin that is either brass or SS...

2) While it's true, polished brass is as bit more conductive than SS, oxidized brass is WAY less conductive than SS. So... Unless to plan on sanding and/or polishing the center pin on a daily basis, SS will be more conductive in this particular application.

Also note... pdib mentioned in an earlier post that he treats all brass parts in a hydrogen peroxide/vinegar solution to remove any surface lead... Sanding or polishing the brass will expose new layers of the brass and new lead (if it exists).

Excellent points, Jasl! (I've been going to this jasl fellow with questions pretty much since day one on ECF). There was some discussion of this in the Micro-coil thread in the RBA Forum (methinks). We got some rather authoritative feedback, saying that polishing or lightly sanding brass parts (after they've been treated) will not expose any significant amount of "new lead"; that there's no reason for concern with that.


here's some reference . .. .

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ncrease-vapor-flavor-th-851.html#post11567813

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ncrease-vapor-flavor-th-865.html#post11660664
 
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X-Puppy

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Here’s a link that goes back 100 pages or so within this thread that shows my Canary 007 with different attys on it. Sorry I don’t have an unmilled RM2 to show you – I’ve been enjoying my AFC cyclones so much I haven’t found the need.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modder-accessories-supplier-forum/511889-pdibs-making-mods-36.html#post11924311

It also included a list of batteries that I found not only drop in fit the OliveR but were also good candidates for driving subΩ coils on mechanical mods.

Since supertrunker was not impressed I also picked up some Orbitronics SX30's and found they fit great too after removing one of the spacers from either the bottom underneath the fuse or the one located underneath the firing pin contact.

So far for the OliveR, my personal preference has been the Sony US18650VTC4 2100mAh (30 amp). It drops right in with no modifications and has the best spec's I've found so far (high amp/mAh rating). The charts and graphs I have seen show the AW 18650 1600mAh holds a little higher voltage in the vaping zone above 3.7V before dropping off to vaping uselessness. Although the AW 1600's (24 amp) were not on that list, I have verified that they are a drop in as well with no modifications required.

And what post would be complete without at least one pic of this awesome mod.
photo+4.JPG
 

ValHeli

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X-Puppy

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Without getting into the whole "Which battery is best" discussion again... Quick question -- Button top or Flat top for the Oliver? Famous last words... lol.:?:

Both - but I'm liking the flat tops better. :)

Just a disclaimer - I don't claim to be the expert on batteries. I'll leave that to the veterans. I'm just pointing out what works good. You can't go wrong with any on that list. They're all good! :)

Super-X You look really happy in that vid. :)

PS - looks like ValHeli beat me to it - man this thread moves fast! [url=http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys.php][/URL]
 
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pdib

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Hiya, Supe! :p


Love it! :D



BTW: Would you be kind enough to put that in the Library thread? Glassgal had mentioned that, when shopping, she likes to see the thing in action, if possible. That grin on your face is priceless!!! :D

(Hey, maybe you could just edit it into that little burp of a post you already have?) :p Be nice to have that vid front and center!
 
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Bimini Twist

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the dibi will accommodate both:toast:
Both - but I'm liking the flat tops better. :)

Just a disclaimer - I don't claim to be the expert on batteries. I'll leave that to the veterans. I'm just pointing out what works good. You can't go wrong with any on that list. They're all good! :)

Super-X You look really happy in that vid. :)

Whew! I just noticed that I got the flat tops - and I could SWEAR that I ordered button tops. Went into a momentary panic there.

Well not really, my EA can take either type. But I bought the VT4s with DIBI devotion in mind.
 
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