PDIB's Making MODs!

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glassgal

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Ok I missed the post on required dimensions if we were to send in a block. LInk or pm please?

Can't find the link for the post now, but this is pdib's exact quote (it's on this thread) that I copied to notes:
"Size, well, let's see. Not counting the button; at it's thickest it's usually just a snigglin' under 1 1/32", it's widest is 1 15/16", and it's about 3 1/2" tall (unless you hold it way up high, over your head . . . . then it's taller)."

So minimum size is 3 1/2" x 1 1/32" x 1 15/16" assuming there's not a spot on the wood that chips off, room for polishing, etc etc. IOW, you want to go at least another inch or so for safety bigger would be my guess (pdib will hopefully chime in himself for optimal/minimal block size). But NO dimension can be smaller than the above... so when you see knife or pen blocks... most of them are like 7/8", 5/32" etc on the shortest side... and you can't use it.

Other thing Pdib has said here, is that it should be stabilized wood, and that it cannot be the hardest classed woods because you may then have to pay an additional $200 for ruining his bits and other wood tools. Sticking with burls and other wood types he's posted should be OK, but he hasn't provided a list of OK'd woods either. He did say that if you find something you fall in love with, pm and ask him BEFORE you buy it, and he will tell you if he can or cannot do it... I'd take that advice seriously, some of the pieces I've been looking at have been really expensive...

But if you were given a spot on the waiting list, he should have already told you your batch # (if he hasn't, it's time to bug him again). Well, he's going to have some premades in each batch, so my thought was to see if I fall in love with a premade before I go wood hunting:). That's not stopping me from looking and dreaming tho...
 

pdib

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Thanks, glassgal!. The size of blank I need is a hair larger than the finished size. I hadn't posted that size on purpose. I want to have had a PM communication with anyone who's thinking of buying their own materials. Before you know it, stuff is just gonna be showing up at my door. I won't even know who sent it. It could be the wrong size, or a poor choice in materials. So, not posting the actual minimum dimensions for a blank was my way insuring that someone establishes contact before going whole hog. For now, I think I'll keep it that way.
 

pdib

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I'm in a spendy kind o mood but I'm patiently waiting for the pics made from "shop stock". Truthfully I wouldn't mind owning one at all made from scrap wood (like the prototype) as long as it'll last me a long time.

I don't mean to overload your work but, any guesstimate on when the last production run on "the queue" will be finished? I ask bec. I've been showing pics to my friends and they want one also. There's a whole fan base building here.

Only I get scrap mod! (well, maybe if you ask real nice)

We're just filing out run #4. Counting those who want multiples, we're into #5. So, if someone were to contact me today, I'm guessing .. . . . .. 2 1/2 - 3 months?

(” here” , V.H.? . . . . Bagdahd?) o_O
 

ukeman

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one smart dude here ----\/

So, not posting the actual minimum dimensions for a blank was my way insuring that someone establishes contact before going whole hog. For now, I think I'll keep it that way.

Wow how this thread is popping! More "likes" are being tossed around here than any other thread on this whole darn forum.

Atties for Dibby:
The iGo S is small chamber afaik, like the Cyclone, while the RM2 is wider a tad (i like dat)… and the Cyclone w/AFC comes out wider than the stock cap.

I'm wondering if the Cyclone and smaller chamber factor doesn't make optimal coil and placement an "advanced user" issue lol…

ergo I'm sticking with RM2's …. and wondering about the wider iGo drippers - i have .5 ohms coil on my iGo L (wider than iGoS) and it freaking pops!

(what i'm saying is there is rooooom for more atties to show up on this here mod…. if someone would mod them for b/f for us who don't do that kind of thing)
 

IMEDICx90

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one smart dude here ----\/



Wow how this thread is popping! More "likes" are being tossed around here than any other thread on this whole darn forum.

Atties for Dibby:
The iGo S is small chamber afaik, like the Cyclone, while the RM2 is wider a tad (i like dat)… and the Cyclone w/AFC comes out wider than the stock cap.

I'm wondering if the Cyclone and smaller chamber factor doesn't make optimal coil and placement an "advanced user" issue lol…

ergo I'm sticking with RM2's …. and wondering about the wider iGo drippers - i have .5 ohms coil on my iGo L (wider than iGoS) and it freaking pops!

(what i'm saying is there is rooooom for more atties to show up on this here mod…. if someone would mod them for b/f for us who don't do that kind of thing)

I thought about trying to mod a trident... I really love my trident but I'm not sure where I would put the hole for filling the atty on the deck.



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ukeman

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I thought about trying to mod a trident... I really love my trident but I'm not sure where I would put the hole for filling the atty on the deck.
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you got me there…. doesn't the Trident fill from the d/t? hmmm i guess i don't know what a trident is then.
 

IMEDICx90

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you got me there…. doesn't the Trident fill from the d/t? hmmm i guess i don't know what a trident is then.

Yes but if I could mod it to be a bottom fed atty that would be sick. It's my favorite setup and I always run dual micros stacked in it. So is I could figure out how to make is a b/f I would just dedicate a trident to my dibby and my REO. :)


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ukeman

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you got me there…. doesn't the Trident fill from the d/t? hmmm i guess i don't know what a trident is then.
this is a BF you lunk head (Ukeman)… coffee hasn't kicked in, doing to much multi tasking, etc.

Right.. ok yeah… drilling the center post somehow is the ticket
 

IMEDICx90

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this is a BF you lunk head (Ukeman)… coffee hasn't kicked in, doing to much multi tasking, etc.

Right.. ok yeah… drilling the center post somehow is the ticket

Correct and your not a lunkhead it is a standard sealed 510 RDA. But with my love for it and the patriot (although I have clones of the trident not the patriot and wouldn't chance the real deal patriot on a whim) I would love to be able to convert them to a B/F and use them on my bottom feeders. :(


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gotarace

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wow what kind of car is that? looks like either a mustang or a stude coupe? love the sounds and smells of the old dirt track
That's a old Stude coupe my father raced years ago...it lead to the race gas in my blood...I raced dirt modified's for over 20 years. The photo is a bit of a tribute to the old man and brings me back to my roots. :toast:
 

pdib

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Xobe will be by with trident input . . . . . . .

That's the one with the 2 part, adjustable center post, right? So it does take a bit more precision and effort than most RDAs. I think the ideal thing is to replace the bottom brass section with SS? However, if one were to drill carefully and with some precision, I'm sure it can be done. (same as any other, just through the two parts without boogering them up)
 
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IMEDICx90

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Xobe will be by with trident input . . . . . . .

That's the one with the 2 part, adjustable center post, right? So it does take a bit more precision and effort than most RDAs. I think the ideal thing is to replace the bottom brass section with SS? However, if one were to drill carefully and with some precision, I'm sure it can be done. (same as any other, just through the two parts without booger them up)

No a trident is just a simple connector and then you have a two part top cap for airflow. There is a sidewall part and then the airflow ring that the drip tip attaches too. But I assume if I can drill out the bottom pin through the center, and then a second hole through the center post/bottom deck it would be an easy ideal, just not necessarily easy in execution.




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glassgal

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That's a really good question too... which would be the best mod to use:)?

I don't have any box type mech mods... I have NOOOO idea what to get... O.O

I already have an Igo-F (which I don't love...), an ERA RDA, an old (but neat looking) Ego Esolid RDA for little RDA (and quite a few big RBA, and of course a gazillion glass carto tanks:)). The RDA, which I think is what is getting used here, all have pins that drive through the center that is the positive post... I have no idea how one of these is adapted to the Reo even, since if you pull that post out, you have no where to attach the wire for the positive contact? I don't know how that works, and have never tried. It's one reason I haven't gotten a Reo... not the vaguest idea what to do with it...
 
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