I was assuming I would have to go pretty shiny on that one too. SFM, yours doesn't have more layers, necessarily, just more elbows, technique and some learning curve. We shall see, tho.
PDIB's Making MODs!
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I like shiny!! Don't think I need layers of plexiglass tho... my wood was solid except for a wimpy spot pdib can lop off... I am SOOOO curious what it will look like
!!!! I'm fine with it being dark or light, so long as it's still blue. Or in my case, blueish purple.
!!!! I'm fine with it being dark or light, so long as it's still blue. Or in my case, blueish purple.
my 510 is slightly tilted too, ever so slightly. it doesn't affect anything and it's really only "visible" because of the gap below the atty. I used an oring from the bag that fits under the atty to let me re position the air holes to where the atty tightens down and now that there is no gap below the atty you can't even tell. it's very slight and nothing to worry about. close that gap with an oring and you won't even see it. my guess is this is caused by slightly less than perfect aligning of the inner thread bore to the outer threading of the machined 510 connector from the manufacturer of the 510, cause I know peter drills straight
this mod has made me re realize that I'm a big time button masher when it comes to most mechs. many mechs make better connection the harder it's pressed.when I started vaping for the first 2 years I used a mech mod that used stacked 123's at 6v, and I used to wind up having to press the button hard enough at times to get a solid connection that I would wind up crushing the batteries. a new set would dent and dent and dent and I would have to keep adjusting the switch because as the batteries crushed a bit the stack got shorter and shorter. it was a pinky button mod and I winded up having a knot and a callus on my pinky from always pressing the thing so hard. that's actually my single most favorite thing about a dna mod, no button mashing necissary ever, always a feather touch with consistently reliable firing, it uses a low amperage switch to trigger a high amperage electronic switch, if the dna did nothing but this, that alone would be worth it to me. on a mech the button itself is the high amperage switch and almost begs to be mashed.
naturally when I first started using my dibi I would sometimes press the button a bit too hard and the battery would push the lower cap down a bit and it would break contact. for a button masher like me the magnetic lower cap is almost like a cruel joke, I instinctively press harder for a better connection and instead of making it better connection it completely breaks the connection.
so I installed the lower screw to hold the cap on solid instead of relying on the magnets. well this was so much better for me. for a little while at least. the screw for the bottom cap is a tiny brass screw and it goes to one side of the lower cap and I'm pressing it hard enough that I'm still pushing the battery down hard enough to still push the lower cap down, resulting in actually bending the screw slightly, but enough to allow the cover to hinge away from the center contact. with the magnets it would snap back in place when you push it to much but when the screw bends it then winds up holding the cap hinged open slightly away from the center contact. when that happens I now have a death grip on the mod with my pinky underneath and I'm squeezing and pressing hard enough that I think my pinky knot callus is going to come back really soon so now I loosened the lower screw enough that it doesn't hold the cap tight enough to bend and hinge the cap open, I'm now using my pinky underneath and it's better with the cap floating than screwed down solid on one side, it's just a matter of getting used to the right pinky support and spot and grip I guess
I think I will tap a second lower screw on the other side so there's no way for the cap to move at all or hinge sideways and bend or move period. honestly I think that would eliminate all the problems I'm having as a button masher and that one thing would make it a much more solid mod to me personally, much more solid and reliable connection overall and much less finicky. I don't mean to say anything negative about the mod, I still love it very much but I think this one little thing would really improve the overall experience for me personally. the quick release lower cap makes it finicky and requires you to hold it a certain way or it don't fire reliably, the lower cap solidly screwed on would make it go from finicky to rock solid reliable even if it meant screws instead of magnets, or having the option of magnets or screws on the lower cover. the lower cover doesn't need to be quick release and personally I think it would be a big advantage to be mounted with screws
I really don't mean to say anything negative here at all and overall I love this thing, just trying to give a little constructive feedback and a humble suggestion or input. obviously if I'm the only one with this issue then this don't even matter, is anyone else having any issues with this? does anyone else think the mod would be much more solid and less finicky with a solidly mounted lower cap? maybe for everyone else just the one screw is enough? guess no ones bending them huh? idunno, maybe it's just me, I never claimed to be normal
this mod has made me re realize that I'm a big time button masher when it comes to most mechs. many mechs make better connection the harder it's pressed.when I started vaping for the first 2 years I used a mech mod that used stacked 123's at 6v, and I used to wind up having to press the button hard enough at times to get a solid connection that I would wind up crushing the batteries. a new set would dent and dent and dent and I would have to keep adjusting the switch because as the batteries crushed a bit the stack got shorter and shorter. it was a pinky button mod and I winded up having a knot and a callus on my pinky from always pressing the thing so hard. that's actually my single most favorite thing about a dna mod, no button mashing necissary ever, always a feather touch with consistently reliable firing, it uses a low amperage switch to trigger a high amperage electronic switch, if the dna did nothing but this, that alone would be worth it to me. on a mech the button itself is the high amperage switch and almost begs to be mashed.
naturally when I first started using my dibi I would sometimes press the button a bit too hard and the battery would push the lower cap down a bit and it would break contact. for a button masher like me the magnetic lower cap is almost like a cruel joke, I instinctively press harder for a better connection and instead of making it better connection it completely breaks the connection.
so I installed the lower screw to hold the cap on solid instead of relying on the magnets. well this was so much better for me. for a little while at least. the screw for the bottom cap is a tiny brass screw and it goes to one side of the lower cap and I'm pressing it hard enough that I'm still pushing the battery down hard enough to still push the lower cap down, resulting in actually bending the screw slightly, but enough to allow the cover to hinge away from the center contact. with the magnets it would snap back in place when you push it to much but when the screw bends it then winds up holding the cap hinged open slightly away from the center contact. when that happens I now have a death grip on the mod with my pinky underneath and I'm squeezing and pressing hard enough that I think my pinky knot callus is going to come back really soon
so now I loosened the lower screw enough that it doesn't hold the cap tight enough to bend and hinge the cap open, I'm now using my pinky underneath and it's better with the cap floating than screwed down solid on one side, it's just a matter of getting used to the right pinky support and spot and grip I guess I think I will tap a second lower screw on the other side so there's no way for the cap to move at all or hinge sideways and bend or move period. honestly I think that would eliminate all the problems I'm having as a button masher and that one thing would make it a much more solid mod to me personally, much more solid and reliable connection overall and much less finicky. I don't mean to say anything negative about the mod, I still love it very much but I think this one little thing would really improve the overall experience for me personally. the quick release lower cap makes it finicky and requires you to hold it a certain way or it don't fire reliably, the lower cap solidly screwed on would make it go from finicky to rock solid reliable even if it meant screws instead of magnets, or having the option of magnets or screws on the lower cover. the lower cover doesn't need to be quick release and personally I think it would be a big advantage to be mounted with screws
I really don't mean to say anything negative here at all and overall I love this thing, just trying to give a little constructive feedback and a humble suggestion or input. obviously if I'm the only one with this issue then this don't even matter, is anyone else having any issues with this? does anyone else think the mod would be much more solid and less finicky with a solidly mounted lower cap? maybe for everyone else just the one screw is enough? guess no ones bending them huh?
idunno, maybe it's just me, I never claimed to be normal 
my 510 is slightly tilted too, ever so slightly. it doesn't affect anything and it's really only "visible" because of the gap below the atty. I used an oring from the bag that fits under the atty to let me re position the air holes to where the atty tightens down and now that there is no gap below the atty you can't even tell. it's very slight and nothing to worry about. close that gap with an oring and you won't even see it. my guess is this is caused by slightly less than perfect aligning of the inner thread bore to the outer threading of the machined 510 connector from the manufacturer of the 510, cause I know peter drills straight
this mod has made me re realize that I'm a big time button masher when it comes to most mechs. many mechs make better connection the harder it's pressed.when I started vaping for the first 2 years I used a mech mod that used stacked 123's at 6v, and I used to wind up having to press the button hard enough at times to get a solid connection that I would wind up crushing the batteries. a new set would dent and dent and dent and I would have to keep adjusting the switch because as the batteries crushed a bit the stack got shorter and shorter. it was a pinky button mod and I winded up having a knot and a callus on my pinky from always pressing the thing so hard. that's actually my single most favorite thing about a dna mod, no button mashing necissary ever, always a feather touch with consistently reliable firing, it uses a low amperage switch to trigger a high amperage electronic switch, if the dna did nothing but this, that alone would be worth it to me. on a mech the button itself is the high amperage switch and almost begs to be mashed.
naturally when I first started using my dibi I would sometimes press the button a bit too hard and the battery would push the lower cap down a bit and it would break contact. for a button masher like me the magnetic lower cap is almost like a cruel joke, I instinctively press harder for a better connection and instead of making it better connection it completely breaks the connection.
so I installed the lower screw to hold the cap on solid instead of relying on the magnets. well this was so much better for me. for a little while at least. the screw for the bottom cap is a tiny brass screw and it goes to one side of the lower cap and I'm pressing it hard enough that I'm still pushing the battery down hard enough to still push the lower cap down, resulting in actually bending the screw slightly, but enough to allow the cover to hinge away from the center contact. with the magnets it would snap back in place when you push it to much but when the screw bends it then winds up holding the cap hinged open slightly away from the center contact. when that happens I now have a death grip on the mod with my pinky underneath and I'm squeezing and pressing hard enough that I think my pinky knot callus is going to come back really soon
I think I will tap a second lower screw on the other side so there's no way for the cap to move at all or hinge sideways and bend or move period. honestly I think that would eliminate all the problems I'm having as a button masher and that one thing would make it a much more solid mod to me personally, much more solid and reliable connection overall and much less finicky. I don't mean to say anything negative about the mod, I still love it very much but I think this one little thing would really improve the overall experience for me personally. the quick release lower cap makes it finicky and requires you to hold it a certain way or it don't fire reliably, the lower cap solidly screwed on would make it go from finicky to rock solid reliable even if it meant screws instead of magnets, or having the option of magnets or screws on the lower cover. the lower cover doesn't need to be quick release and personally I think it would be a big advantage to be mounted with screws
I really don't mean to say anything negative here at all and overall I love this thing, just trying to give a little constructive feedback and a humble suggestion or input. obviously if I'm the only one with this issue then this don't even matter, is anyone else having any issues with this? does anyone else think the mod would be much more solid and less finicky with a solidly mounted lower cap? maybe for everyone else just the one screw is enough? guess no ones bending them huh?
Actually had this happen to me. Lol. Word by word.
I'm already mastering the pinky technique though, and trying not to button-mash xD
pdib.. Im in love with it.. Don't wanna send the little guy back. Perhaps I can send you back the top cap and trade for another if you've got a spare lying around?
my reo is like this with the 510 not being straight.. I presumed they were all like this and i just got on with it.. besides, saying something and being told to send it back for such a minor is impractical/inconvenient being that I would be waiting a hell of a long time not being US..
with a gap like you get with a standard rm2/reo combo its pretty darn noticeable and as said a beauty ring will fix it...
After a while you will(won't) forget that you have this issue when using things like cyclone's that sit snug and don't have a gap between rda and mod... that is until you decide to mark a second hole by measuring up the hole height while rda and cap are on your mod and you end up with either a second hole to high or in my case to low.....
just thought I'd post this so no one else makes the mistake
I cant speak for the dibi but button basher's that use reo's with a self made firing pin can stop the pin flattening out by instead of making the pin like the original.... ..... cut the length longer and roll it over like a 'P' or cut even longer and roll more.... I bash for all available power to
bah.....
with a gap like you get with a standard rm2/reo combo its pretty darn noticeable and as said a beauty ring will fix it...
After a while you will(won't) forget that you have this issue when using things like cyclone's that sit snug and don't have a gap between rda and mod... that is until you decide to mark a second hole by measuring up the hole height while rda and cap are on your mod and you end up with either a second hole to high or in my case to low.....
just thought I'd post this so no one else makes the mistake
I cant speak for the dibi but button basher's that use reo's with a self made firing pin can stop the pin flattening out by instead of making the pin like the original.... ..... cut the length longer and roll it over like a 'P' or cut even longer and roll more.... I bash for all available power to
bah.....
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TURBO ANGRY! TURBO SMASH!
lmao
I never actually tried the screw to keep the bottom in a fixed position, but I'm not really a button masher and I adjusted the throw of my button so that i barely had to touch it.... And yea my pinky was usually on the bottom
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lmao
I never actually tried the screw to keep the bottom in a fixed position, but I'm not really a button masher and I adjusted the throw of my button so that i barely had to touch it.... And yea my pinky was usually on the bottom
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That's it. I'm pulling both my reo's apart today. I can't get them to keep a solid connection no matter the battery, naolox, cleaning, doesn't matter what I do so I'm thinking I have a connection issue to the 510. The batteries are all fine since they work in every other mod I have without skipping a beat. What material do I need to make a firing pin like slippy was talking about?
you need brass... use your original as a template but make sure you cut it atleast 5mm longer... you can atleast cut some off if way to long.... you can get brass from some feeler gauges in car auto shops..... you can use the one that is 0.010, 0.012 or even the 0.014....
and I think you need to search for the thread called 'spring what spring' or 'modded firing pin'brb i'll go check for ya...
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look here http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/reos-mods/533083-010-012-a.html brb with more......
Yours came out so dark ... but in your pix, it looks way lighter. So it darkened up from the original??
Mine's pretty dark too, and I thought they were the same color, but I think mine's got more purple in it. Wonder if mine will be as dark as yours??
This is mine in very heavy shadow (am doing C first):
This is more lit up:
I don't think there's black in mine... did yours start out with black??
Also, what did you do with the small piece that was more like mine (cut off in the above pix)? Why didn't you make that first?
I'm loving the variations in that C block there GG, are u in the next run? Beautiful! What species of wood is that?
The caps are made in conjunction with the body. Each unit is hand shaped as a whole, with the caps seated in place. So, there's only as many caps out there as there are mods, and they are unique to the mod.
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I've been wondering... but couldn't tell for sure ... is your Avatar an Otto Carver mod
?
Thanks
. I like em too. The one on the left (F) is Elder Boxwood. The one on the right is Bigleaf Maple gem burl (that's the one pdib has right now). And, I was in run 4 (thus the #42), but got moved to run 3 because someone in run 3 cannot be located and hasn't been on the forum for over a month and didn't respond to pms or emails (was a newbie with about 20 total posts). Soooooo!!! I'm in THIS run! YAY!!!
my 510 is slightly tilted too, ever so slightly. it doesn't affect anything and it's really only "visible" because of the gap below the atty. I used an oring from the bag that fits under the atty to let me re position the air holes to where the atty tightens down and now that there is no gap below the atty you can't even tell. it's very slight and nothing to worry about. close that gap with an oring and you won't even see it. my guess is this is caused by slightly less than perfect aligning of the inner thread bore to the outer threading of the machined 510 connector from the manufacturer of the 510, cause I know peter drills straight
this mod has made me re realize that I'm a big time button masher when it comes to most mechs. many mechs make better connection the harder it's pressed.when I started vaping for the first 2 years I used a mech mod that used stacked 123's at 6v, and I used to wind up having to press the button hard enough at times to get a solid connection that I would wind up crushing the batteries. a new set would dent and dent and dent and I would have to keep adjusting the switch because as the batteries crushed a bit the stack got shorter and shorter. it was a pinky button mod and I winded up having a knot and a callus on my pinky from always pressing the thing so hard. that's actually my single most favorite thing about a dna mod, no button mashing necissary ever, always a feather touch with consistently reliable firing, it uses a low amperage switch to trigger a high amperage electronic switch, if the dna did nothing but this, that alone would be worth it to me. on a mech the button itself is the high amperage switch and almost begs to be mashed.
naturally when I first started using my dibi I would sometimes press the button a bit too hard and the battery would push the lower cap down a bit and it would break contact. for a button masher like me the magnetic lower cap is almost like a cruel joke, I instinctively press harder for a better connection and instead of making it better connection it completely breaks the connection.
so I installed the lower screw to hold the cap on solid instead of relying on the magnets. well this was so much better for me. for a little while at least. the screw for the bottom cap is a tiny brass screw and it goes to one side of the lower cap and I'm pressing it hard enough that I'm still pushing the battery down hard enough to still push the lower cap down, resulting in actually bending the screw slightly, but enough to allow the cover to hinge away from the center contact. with the magnets it would snap back in place when you push it to much but when the screw bends it then winds up holding the cap hinged open slightly away from the center contact. when that happens I now have a death grip on the mod with my pinky underneath and I'm squeezing and pressing hard enough that I think my pinky knot callus is going to come back really soon
I think I will tap a second lower screw on the other side so there's no way for the cap to move at all or hinge sideways and bend or move period. honestly I think that would eliminate all the problems I'm having as a button masher and that one thing would make it a much more solid mod to me personally, much more solid and reliable connection overall and much less finicky. I don't mean to say anything negative about the mod, I still love it very much but I think this one little thing would really improve the overall experience for me personally. the quick release lower cap makes it finicky and requires you to hold it a certain way or it don't fire reliably, the lower cap solidly screwed on would make it go from finicky to rock solid reliable even if it meant screws instead of magnets, or having the option of magnets or screws on the lower cover. the lower cover doesn't need to be quick release and personally I think it would be a big advantage to be mounted with screws
I really don't mean to say anything negative here at all and overall I love this thing, just trying to give a little constructive feedback and a humble suggestion or input. obviously if I'm the only one with this issue then this don't even matter, is anyone else having any issues with this? does anyone else think the mod would be much more solid and less finicky with a solidly mounted lower cap? maybe for everyone else just the one screw is enough? guess no ones bending them huh?
Thanks for pointing this out, T-cad. My hands are tied on this. Very limited sources, all pretty much the same. I've even looked into having them manufactured custom; but the quantities are too large for a little guy like me and there's no guarantee they'd be any different. In fact they may prove exactly the same . . .. same factory floor, different day. I needs to get busy with the hybrid . . . . (someday)
my 510 is slightly tilted too, ever so slightly. it doesn't affect anything and it's really only "visible" because of the gap below the atty. I used an oring from the bag that fits under the atty to let me re position the air holes to where the atty tightens down and now that there is no gap below the atty you can't even tell. it's very slight and nothing to worry about. close that gap with an oring and you won't even see it. my guess is this is caused by slightly less than perfect aligning of the inner thread bore to the outer threading of the machined 510 connector from the manufacturer of the 510, cause I know peter drills straight
this mod has made me re realize that I'm a big time button masher when it comes to most mechs. many mechs make better connection the harder it's pressed.when I started vaping for the first 2 years I used a mech mod that used stacked 123's at 6v, and I used to wind up having to press the button hard enough at times to get a solid connection that I would wind up crushing the batteries. a new set would dent and dent and dent and I would have to keep adjusting the switch because as the batteries crushed a bit the stack got shorter and shorter. it was a pinky button mod and I winded up having a knot and a callus on my pinky from always pressing the thing so hard. that's actually my single most favorite thing about a dna mod, no button mashing necissary ever, always a feather touch with consistently reliable firing, it uses a low amperage switch to trigger a high amperage electronic switch, if the dna did nothing but this, that alone would be worth it to me. on a mech the button itself is the high amperage switch and almost begs to be mashed.
naturally when I first started using my dibi I would sometimes press the button a bit too hard and the battery would push the lower cap down a bit and it would break contact. for a button masher like me the magnetic lower cap is almost like a cruel joke, I instinctively press harder for a better connection and instead of making it better connection it completely breaks the connection.
so I installed the lower screw to hold the cap on solid instead of relying on the magnets. well this was so much better for me. for a little while at least. the screw for the bottom cap is a tiny brass screw and it goes to one side of the lower cap and I'm pressing it hard enough that I'm still pushing the battery down hard enough to still push the lower cap down, resulting in actually bending the screw slightly, but enough to allow the cover to hinge away from the center contact. with the magnets it would snap back in place when you push it to much but when the screw bends it then winds up holding the cap hinged open slightly away from the center contact. when that happens I now have a death grip on the mod with my pinky underneath and I'm squeezing and pressing hard enough that I think my pinky knot callus is going to come back really soon
I think I will tap a second lower screw on the other side so there's no way for the cap to move at all or hinge sideways and bend or move period. honestly I think that would eliminate all the problems I'm having as a button masher and that one thing would make it a much more solid mod to me personally, much more solid and reliable connection overall and much less finicky. I don't mean to say anything negative about the mod, I still love it very much but I think this one little thing would really improve the overall experience for me personally. the quick release lower cap makes it finicky and requires you to hold it a certain way or it don't fire reliably, the lower cap solidly screwed on would make it go from finicky to rock solid reliable even if it meant screws instead of magnets, or having the option of magnets or screws on the lower cover. the lower cover doesn't need to be quick release and personally I think it would be a big advantage to be mounted with screws
I really don't mean to say anything negative here at all and overall I love this thing, just trying to give a little constructive feedback and a humble suggestion or input. obviously if I'm the only one with this issue then this don't even matter, is anyone else having any issues with this? does anyone else think the mod would be much more solid and less finicky with a solidly mounted lower cap? maybe for everyone else just the one screw is enough? guess no ones bending them huh?
This is something I want to consider. The quick release bottom cap is proving unnecessary (from the feedback I've gotten so far). Two screws in the bottom cap instead of two magnets is a design change I may be willing and able to implement. There are definitely desirable elements to this proposal. Thank you, T-cad
! (X-puppy had mentioned something along these lines as well, a while back, in PM.) I'd like a little more input from others who've been using the mod. I don't think it feasible to offer variations; so it would be a one time change, and ubiquitous in fabrication. I would need to verify, as well, that it would be a change I could make (that it doesn't have hidden problems in the making or the maintenance and vaping).
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Thanks
Damn your luck there GG... You must be puttin out some good energy!
Wish it was me
One thing I would say against that is these aren't huge batteries, and with internal variances of batteries and the compartments, not all batteries just slide out the top: you'll need to remove Screws than each time you replace you'd battery for a fresh one.
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