PDIB's Making MODs!

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Borescoped

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Not sure if I'll have these ready by run#3 ship date. Just ordered a couple to play with, and make sure this is gonna work. If it works, I'll have one or two to spare for immediate/emergency "inclusions" (to send to far distant simians vacationing in sandy places . .. .and like 'at). We shall see.

I think I might fall under the "and like 'at" category LOL.


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pdib

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Ok, somebody help me out here . . . . .. compatibility, galvanic corrosion, etc. IF I understand correctly, this is a moot point, as it has more to do with water and salts VS electric current passing through. Take, for example the idea of household electrical junctions being made between aluminum and copper. The copper doesn't rot the aluminum out because current is passing through them. There are issues of differences in expansion/contraction; but that's another issue. Here ↓, I'm seeing that silver and aluminum are pretty far apart on the Anodic Index. As far as I understand it, tho, this would not be an issue for button post (alum.) and battery contact (silver) . . .. unless you were vaping in the dishwasher, or regularly submerged in salt water. Correct?

Anodic index[10][page needed]
Metal Index (V)
Most Cathodic
Gold, solid and plated, Gold-platinum alloy -0.00
Rhodium plated on silver-plated copper -0.05
Silver, solid or plated; monel metal. High nickel-copper alloys -0.15
Nickel, solid or plated, titanium an s alloys, Monel -0.30
Copper, solid or plated; low brasses or bronzes; silver solder; German silvery high copper-nickel alloys; nickel-chromium alloys -0.35
Brass and bronzes -0.40
High brasses and bronzes -0.45
18% chromium type corrosion-resistant steels -0.50
Chromium plated; tin plated; 12% chromium type corrosion-resistant steels -0.60
Tin-plate; tin-lead solder -0.65
Lead, solid or plated; high lead alloys -0.70
2000 series wrought aluminum -0.75
Iron, wrought, gray or malleable, plain carbon and low alloy steels -0.85
Aluminum, wrought alloys other than 2000 series aluminum, cast alloys of the silicon type -0.90
Aluminum, cast alloys other than silicon type, cadmium, plated and chromate -0.95
Hot-dip-zinc plate; galvanized steel -1.20
Zinc, wrought; zinc-base die-casting alloys; zinc plated -1.25
Magnesium & magnesium-base alloys, cast or wrought -1.75
Beryllium -1.85
Most Anodic


. . . . . representing the electrical potential they develop in a given electrolyte . . . .

The compatibility of two different metals may be predicted by consideration of their anodic index. This parameter is a measure of the electrochemical voltage that will be developed between the metal and gold. To find the relative voltage of a pair of metals it is only required to subtract their anodic indices.[9]
For normal environments, such as storage in warehouses or non-temperature and humidity controlled environments, there should not be more than 0.25 V difference in the anodic index. For controlled environments, in which temperature and humidity are controlled, 0.50 V can be tolerated. For harsh environments, such as outdoors, high humidity, and salt environments, there should be not more than 0.15 V difference in the anodic index. For example; gold/silver would have a difference of 0.15V being acceptable [10][page needed]
Often when design requires that dissimilar metals come in contact, the galvanic compatibility is managed by finishes and plating. The finishing and plating selected allows the dissimilar materials to be in contact, while protecting the base materials from corrosion.[10][page needed] Note that it will always be the lower-down of the two metals which will ultimately suffer from corrosion when galvanic incompatibility is in play. This is why you should never place sterling silver and stainless steel tableware in a dishwasher at the same time, as the steel items will likely experience corrosion by the end of the cycle (soap and water having served as the chemical electrolyte, and heat having amplified the process).

↑ WIKI
 
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pdib

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I think I might fall under the "and like 'at" category LOL.


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you also fall into the, "cows come home" category. If this works, I'll be up and running with it by the time your turn slowly, creakily eases it's way onto the map of the known world. :p
 

Xobeloot

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monkey gets tin.

ybasubad.jpg


This is my evil gaze


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pdib

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Well, I think everyone would want them... it's a feature that improves the function of the mod right:)?

Well, I'm not everyone; but I can tell you I want. In fact, I may just be the first to have one (that's how eager I am).

Seriously, tho. The mod works great as-is. Contacts need an occasional cleaning (just like almost any other mod out there), v-drop is great. But, as the maker, if I see an improvement I can make and it's reasonable for me to do, I'll try to do it. Each of these improvements are a bit of a luxury (and for many, absolutely unnecessary), and they cost dollar. By making it optional, I'm trying to leave well enough alone for those who aren't "freight train" hobos (or battery efficiency fanatics). Some folks just like to have a nice vape. (notice how i didn't say, "cape" "gape" or "plape")
 

rabernet

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So, a question for my peeps. Who would be willing to pay ~$15/pc for solid sterling silver fire button contacts? I'm thinking of ordering some and modding them up to work nicely in the existing button assembly. Basically, it would replace the screw-in "contact" part of the button assembly. Between cost+shipping and modding time to make them work for us, they would cost about that much. This, I think, would be a luxury add-on. We certainly don't all need one; but some of us might just think it's the pig's chin whiskers*. I think I've got it all figured out as to the way to make this work, and, as always, the solution is amazingly simple and tidy. Not a sure thing yet; but it looks promising (in the spacious yet eerie expanse of my mind).





*that's good . .. . . right?

Me please.....

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pdib

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Yeppers, SnakeLady. :)


So, I'm seeing a pattern here. I will consider the question answered. "There is sufficient interest in silver contact at ~ suggested price."

I've ordered Sterling Silver* in two different forms, nuts for "double-nutting" the headless silver screw against the button post (the threaded post acting as the second nut for the "dub-nut", and I'll be picking up a freshy, sharpus, brand new 8/32 Thread Die. So, let's hope this works. :blush:





*to be held for me at P.O., so no need to start stealing my mail :p
 
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turbocad6

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Ok, somebody help me out here . . . . .. compatibility, galvanic corrosion, etc. IF I understand correctly, this is a moot point, as it has more to do with water and salts VS electric current passing through. Take, for example the idea of household electrical junctions being made between aluminum and copper. The copper doesn't rot the aluminum out because current is passing through them. There are issues of differences in expansion/contraction; but that's another issue. Here ↓, I'm seeing that silver and aluminum are pretty far apart on the Anodic Index. As far as I understand it, tho, this would not be an issue for button post (alum.) and battery contact (silver) . . .. unless you were vaping in the dishwasher, or regularly submerged in salt water. Correct?

Anodic index[10][page needed]
Metal Index (V)
Most Cathodic
Gold, solid and plated, Gold-platinum alloy -0.00
Rhodium plated on silver-plated copper -0.05
Silver, solid or plated; monel metal. High nickel-copper alloys -0.15
Nickel, solid or plated, titanium an s alloys, Monel -0.30
Copper, solid or plated; low brasses or bronzes; silver solder; German silvery high copper-nickel alloys; nickel-chromium alloys -0.35
Brass and bronzes -0.40
High brasses and bronzes -0.45
18% chromium type corrosion-resistant steels -0.50
Chromium plated; tin plated; 12% chromium type corrosion-resistant steels -0.60
Tin-plate; tin-lead solder -0.65
Lead, solid or plated; high lead alloys -0.70
2000 series wrought aluminum -0.75
Iron, wrought, gray or malleable, plain carbon and low alloy steels -0.85
Aluminum, wrought alloys other than 2000 series aluminum, cast alloys of the silicon type -0.90
Aluminum, cast alloys other than silicon type, cadmium, plated and chromate -0.95
Hot-dip-zinc plate; galvanized steel -1.20
Zinc, wrought; zinc-base die-casting alloys; zinc plated -1.25
Magnesium & magnesium-base alloys, cast or wrought -1.75
Beryllium -1.85
Most Anodic






↑ WIKI

everything I see with current research shows that galvanic corrosion is mostly a problem when water and salts come into play, but I do believe that even moisture in the air can play a part, although a very small part, the only way to eliminate it completely is in an inert environment with no oxygen exposure. anything short of that then galvanic corrosion between 2 dissimilar metals is still at least a potential concern. as far as I know it is always best for metal to metal contact to be the same metal when you are talking about a low pressure touching contact of materials, a higher pressure connection is different, stuff like tightened threads and threaded bolts etc are considered high pressure contacts so dissimilar materials are less likely to corrode or oxidise between the contacts. in my research I also learned that silver plated is not as good as solid silver because the plating process alone causes a less than ideal contact between the substrate and the thin plating, this is why sometimes a silver plated brass contact may actually work better by scraping the plating off and just using the brass surface, even though silver is much more conductive than brass, the limitations of it just being a micro layer of silver winds up not being as good as just solid brass might be

I sure ain't an authority on this stuff but then again I've been doing automotive electrical and computer work for the past twenty some odd years so I've learned a few things about conductivity and resistance, and I've done some research on this stuff too recently. my final outlook on this is that silver to aluminum to brass to copper is not as good as having the same metal on both sides when it comes to a low pressure touch contact.

to expand on this it stands to reason that a fully silver circuit will be superior to any other combination, BUT if all the connections from silver to non silver are tight threaded high pressure connections then the difference is very minimal.

from what I see in the dibi, there are 4 different low pressure contact points, the first obvious and highest scrutinized is the make break contact of the positive post to the battery, this is the most problematic because the make break adds to the surface corrosion, the second most obvious is the negative contact to the battery and the 3rd and 4th maybe less obvious ones are the contacts to and from the central through shaft. personally I see the positive and negative contacts to be a bit easier to deal with upgrading than the 3rd and 4th which are the upper and lower contacts to the through shaft. in my mind these contacts 3 & 4 are more of a challenge to deal with. personally I've been dealing with them by leaving the lower shaft to lower cap contact slightly proud of completely flush, when completely flush this contact will be less than optimal for me, very clean it may be ok but it will degrade quicker than buy me leaving this contact slightly more than fully flush, I also do the exact same thing on the top to leaf contact, adjusting it to slightly more than it would be as fully flush. the benefit of this is now when I squeeze the mod together as I fire I'm putting more pressure on these contact points and it remains reliable longer, the drawback is now the top and bottom cap can "rock" slightly and in turn the magnets are that much less secure.

to me an ideal solution to the 3&4 contacts are to upgrade the contacts there to a much less oxidising material, silver of course being high on the list, but silver is very soft too so it brings complications on a contact like this too, IE; frequent micro adjustments to restore contact pressure while keeping the caps flush. spring loading these contacts would have big benefits but the spring loading would also naturally counteract the magnets holding it together too, so a better solution to me would be to upgrade these to a pressure fit type contact. picture a barrel contact, where there is a male pin that fits into a female pin, this would increase this contacts potential very much and it would also make the magnet cap assy's be much more secure too. I hesitate to add stuff like this here because I don't want it to seem that the design is flawed as is, it's not, but that doesn't mean that they can't be improved even further. my idea of perfect would be, picture a male pin protruding up from the bottom and down from the top caps, then the central "shaft" would be comprised of a shaft with 2 female barrel connectors, joining the 2 together when it is assembled. an added benefit would be no more need for micro adjustments, the slip fit of these contacts would eliminate the need for any adjustments. the kinds of pins I'm talking about are like this. maybe not these exact ones but something along these style design

3-5mm_bullets.JPG



found these here

Rechargeable Batteries & Battery Chargers - Two pairs of 4mm-Bullet connector



oh, and since I'm here, I'll share a pic of my dibidamage :( all's I did was drop it a little bit and then kick it a lill bit against the wall, all accidentally of course :laugh: so the moral here is, don't drop your dibi and then kick it into a wall :laugh:

20140331_164229_zps9eb14545.jpg


20140331_164216_zps518942f7.jpg
 

pdib

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Yeah, that should repair just fine.


I was focusing on solid silver (vs plated) because I'd read numerous times that plated ain't all that great, wears away, and etc. (didn't realize that, depending on the plating process, it could actually be worse.) I figured, if I was gonna make the effort, I might as well go all the way. I'm pretty happy with the rest of the contacts in the mod. Your input and ideas are always very much appreciated, T-cad. In this instance, and with my hands-on, all day every day experience with the mod, I'm drawing a practical line between the make/break contact and the others. I think with the Ag/BeCu spring, a solid silver fire button contact we're well over the line of expectations and vaping satisfaction. I've put PEE-lenty of thought into other ways to make the connections at the brass centerpost, and haven't come up with anything better yet (inclusive of ease of use and etc.) Not to say I'm not open to new ideas. So keep 'em coming, y'all.
 

turbocad6

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yeah, I'm sure with some Cyanoacrylate and sanding that will be repaired good as new, should be invisible too once it's sanded and polished. I'm sure this is not the last time I'll drop it too, I like this mod too much to just leave it home :) I think the lower screw in the cap will help it be a little less resistant to this kind of breakage but I'm sure most wouldn't abuse there dibi the way I do :)

like I said the other contacts are fine the way they are too, I'm just nuts looking for problems that aren't really even problems I guess :)
 

Copterstyle

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GASP!......NOOOOOOO!!!! I hope thats a clean break that will mend well.

oh, and since I'm here, I'll share a pic of my dibidamage :( all's I did was drop it a little bit and then kick it a lill bit against the wall, all accidentally of course :laugh: so the moral here is, don't drop your dibi and then kick it into a wall :laugh:

20140331_164229_zps9eb14545.jpg


20140331_164216_zps518942f7.jpg
[/QUOTE]
 

Filthy-Beast

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you know, a thin wall stainless steel sleeve in the juice hole bore doesn't seem overly complicated. bonding the ss sleeve to the wood is something I'm not familiar with. CA? Epoxy maybe? doesn't have to be the whole tube, just around the squonk opening.
I think expansion and contraction of the wood with humidity changes would present a problem
 
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