PDIB's Making MODs!
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The answers you seek are in the thread...
It's a mind boggling theory but, one only has to open their eyes to be enlightened.
YOUSA - Mama scored!
They just keep getting better!
My 007 is still hitting like a locomotive. Popped a fuse over the weekend but a quick trip to the auto store and.. back in business.
ALL of your mods have had some sort of protection. Some times that is in the form of a kick (regulates voltage and protects shorts) or could be as simple as the negative battery spring which is designed to collapse under high current (short circuit) conditions (the REO uses this).
You need this protection incase you get a hard short. That could happen if your coil touches the cap, heating and compressing your microcoil and forget to remove the pliers when firing, one leg of your coil breaks in the post and touches the base... etc etc
When you get a hard short there will be a spike in the amount of current draw, upwards of 100 amps. Since your battery can not handle this load it WILL fail. When a batt fails it could just release a hot chemical gas, or even explode. Best case scenario is the battery will be shot.
Pdib and I (and some others) went back and forth with what fuse to use to offer enough head room to run a 0.3ohm coil but still blow at 60A in .001sec under a hardshort condition. It is a delicate balancing act. A 7.5A fuse probably will NOT work to run a 0.4ohm coil but it will still offer great short circuit protection. A 15A fuse will allow you to run that 0.3ohm coil, but it will take over 1sec to blow in a short circuit condition, which MAY be adequate to prevent catastrophic batt failure but it will significantly decrease the life of your batt.
If you have any questions regarding if your specific fuse (that is NOT on pdibs recommended list) will work, do not hesitate to ask pdib or myself.
Until pdibs technical site is up, alot of this has been covered in this thread: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/reos-mods/472662-spring-what-spring.html
You need this protection incase you get a hard short. That could happen if your coil touches the cap, heating and compressing your microcoil and forget to remove the pliers when firing, one leg of your coil breaks in the post and touches the base... etc etc
When you get a hard short there will be a spike in the amount of current draw, upwards of 100 amps. Since your battery can not handle this load it WILL fail. When a batt fails it could just release a hot chemical gas, or even explode. Best case scenario is the battery will be shot.
Pdib and I (and some others) went back and forth with what fuse to use to offer enough head room to run a 0.3ohm coil but still blow at 60A in .001sec under a hardshort condition. It is a delicate balancing act. A 7.5A fuse probably will NOT work to run a 0.4ohm coil but it will still offer great short circuit protection. A 15A fuse will allow you to run that 0.3ohm coil, but it will take over 1sec to blow in a short circuit condition, which MAY be adequate to prevent catastrophic batt failure but it will significantly decrease the life of your batt.
If you have any questions regarding if your specific fuse (that is NOT on pdibs recommended list) will work, do not hesitate to ask pdib or myself.
Until pdibs technical site is up, alot of this has been covered in this thread: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/reos-mods/472662-spring-what-spring.html
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I'm not complaining... just asking where it goes and how it works.
Your concerns are valid and most if not all here are happy to help if not point to the right direction.
You can run it as a pure mechanical. pdib provides a beryllium copper strip in the goodie bag if you want to bypass the installed fuse option - which effectively makes it "hard core mechanical" with no circuit protection.
I usually check my atteys with the cap on, using a cartometer while building a coil but in this instance I'm glad the fuse was there. pdib sends them out with it installed by default. I had the coil too close to the cap which was not detected using my backyard ohm check method (with the cap off). I was just lazy and didn't feel like taking the atty of the mod this time. I always place my coil real close to the air hole. I should have known better.
The fuse adds almost no detectable voltage drop but its really-really nice to have it there.
You just screw it down between the 2 screws in the bottom cap of the mod without bending it up.
It wasn't hard to make. I just went to the local auto store and picked up a box of fuses for $10.00. pdib gave me tips on the easiest way to open them up - use a sander or grinder to grind off a little material around the edges of the fuse and carefully crack it open like a clam shell. Then I used a pair of wire cutters to clip off the excess post material.
If your setup has a short and you're running without the fuse your battery is going to get hot quick. If you're lucky the coil won't fire and you will know something's wrong. If you're not and you keep firing it you are risking thermal runaway in your battery once it gets hot enough it doesn't cool off it just keeps going until it explodes or melts down.
The mod comes apart real quick if you're quick enough to think of it when you're having problems but most folks don't have that instinctive reaction during the heat of the moment.
Bottom line - better to have the fuse!
PS. And what SeaNap said - the link he provided is a good read.
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^^^ What he said. In the 4 months of owning and using a fully mech mod (REO) I have yet to blow a fuse/spring. That being said I always continue to run with protection, in the event of some crazy turn of events like X-Pup.
The fuse that pdib is using is a thin strip of metal with very specific properties. At a certain level of current the strip will heat and melt/pop. This is different than using circuitry to detect the spike. This means that pdibs mod is FULLY mechanical with NO electronics.
The fuse that pdib is using is a thin strip of metal with very specific properties. At a certain level of current the strip will heat and melt/pop. This is different than using circuitry to detect the spike. This means that pdibs mod is FULLY mechanical with NO electronics.
Ok... so the fuse part is the squigly wire that is screwed down under the screw right? Why is that a 'fuse' and not just a piece of wire? Does it have special properties? (sorry, I know little to nothing about electricity, and trying to learn).
*edit, oops posted after you did Seanap. Thanks for the explanation... what are the 'special properties'??
? Why is that a 'fuse' and not just a piece of wire? Does it have special properties? (sorry, I know little to nothing about electricity, and trying to learn).*edit, oops posted after you did Seanap
. Thanks for the explanation... what are the 'special properties'??
for this application, pdib desided to use a blade type fuse, with the outer casing removed.Ok... so the fuse part is the squigly wire that is screwed down under the screw right
*edit, oops posted after you did Seanap
in case it wasn't mentioned.
Fuse (electrical) - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
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You can run it as a pure mechanical. pdib provides a beryllium copper strip in the goodie bag if you want to bypass the installed fuse option - which effectively makes it "hard core mechanical" with no circuit protection.
I usually check my atteys with the cap on, using a cartometer while building a coil but in this instance I'm glad the fuse was there. pdib sends them out with it installed by default. I had the coil too close to the cap which was not detected using my backyard ohm check method (with the cap off). I was just lazy and didn't feel like taking the atty of the mod this time. I always place my coil real close to the air hole. I should have known better.
The fuse adds almost no detectable voltage drop but its really-really nice to have it there.
You just screw it down between the 2 screws in the bottom cap of the mod without bending it up.
It wasn't hard to make. I just went to the local auto store and picked up a box of fuses for $10.00. pdib gave me tips on the easiest way to open them up - use a sander or grinder to grind off a little material around the edges of the fuse and carefully crack it open like a clam shell. Then I used a pair of wire cutters to clip off the excess post material.
If your setup has a short and you're running without the fuse your battery is going to get hot quick. If you're lucky the coil won't fire and you will know something's wrong. If you're not and you keep firing it you are risking thermal runaway in your battery once it gets hot enough it doesn't cool off it just keeps going until it explodes or melts down.
The mod comes apart real quick if you're quick enough to think of it when you're having problems but most folks don't have that instinctive reaction during the heat of the moment.
Bottom line - better to have the fuse!
PS. And what SeaNap said - the link he provided is a good read.
OK! That's a great explanation, and I think I get it now!!
So to make sure...
1. The fuse is that squiggly wire between the 2 screws in the first pix.
2. The Dibi will come with the wire already. This acts as short protection, aka fuse, aka circuit breaker
3. If the pdib provided fuse manages to burn out because you did something dumb wrapping the coil, it will just break (so you can tell) and the unit will stop firing.
4. You need to replace it, and can buy the fuses that pdib posted the pdf files for as recommendations for good fuses to use. Alternatively, you can go to an auto supply and buy a box of fuses as shown in x-puppy's 2nd pix.
5. once you have said fuse from whereever you got it, you pull it apart, find the squigly piece somewhere in the fuse, and screw it back between the screws of the device (how does the straight prongs end up looking like the squiggly piece in your first pix?). Oh... it's not the prong part, it's the squiggly thing UNDER the plastic part of the fuse!!! I can see it through the orange plastic in the 3rd photo... I get it. I think.
Then your Dibi will work good as new again (til you short it again by touching your coil to the cap of your atomizer - I don't understand how shorts work either, but that's another question).
The purpose of the squiggly wire is so your battery does not blow sulfuric acid all over your face in an explosive event, melting your eyeballs and other bad things. It will break the wire, instead of exploding.
Did I get that right? Thanks
.
Ok, so once you get a new fuse, you CUT OFF the prongs, and the top part, keeping only the center of the prongs connected to the squiggly wires. The part with the hole in it? You need metal cutters for cutting up the fuse? I don't think scissors will cut through that metal?
Did I get that right? Thanks
tin snips, wire cutters, or heavy duty scissors or even just a pair of pliers will do the job - The "squiggly line" becomes the weakest link in the circuit hence breaking the circuit when current surge happens.
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I'll be posting a tutorial on fuse modification when I've shipped these 10 mods. (when I feel I have the time to do it thoroughly and accurately). You'll be able to buy replacement fuses from me (this is starting to sound familiar).
For the time being, I'll mention that you do not want to alter the actual fuse filament in any way. Snipping the legs off is fine; but don't mess with the squiggly part. Here's a couple before and after pics. Just for amusement.
OH, LOOK. Stupid PHO-Bucket is not just incredibly slow. It's down. So, no pics of fuses. And no pics of the last three mods .. . . . which is why I dropped by.
For the time being, I'll mention that you do not want to alter the actual fuse filament in any way. Snipping the legs off is fine; but don't mess with the squiggly part. Here's a couple before and after pics. Just for amusement.
OH, LOOK. Stupid PHO-Bucket is not just incredibly slow. It's down. So, no pics of fuses. And no pics of the last three mods .. . . . which is why I dropped by.
You got it glassgal! 
You cant fool me - I see that you're a quick study!
I'm sure pdib has been working on a great tutorial. He's the one that gave me my best tips - "ALL" my best tips!
You cant fool me - I see that you're a quick study!
I'm sure pdib has been working on a great tutorial. He's the one that gave me my best tips - "ALL" my best tips!
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tin snips, wire cutters, or heavy duty scissors or even just a pair of pliers will do the job - The "squiggly line" becomes the weakest link in the circuit hence breaking the circuit when current surge happens.
That silly cat cracks me up. How do you get it into the post?
Oh I see - that's cool!
(now I can dance too)
Ok... since we are going to wait a while for pix anyway... a few more questions.
I take it that the squggly line is designed to BREAK easily... otherwise, you could just use the cheapest thinnest wire (like 38 gauge or something) for that 'fuse'. So that's the special property?
I now understand HOW it works, I don't understand WHY it works... why does the wire break instead of say the coil itself, which is often just a 32 gauge skinny wire that's probably thinner than the fuse?
.I take it that the squggly line is designed to BREAK easily... otherwise, you could just use the cheapest thinnest wire (like 38 gauge or something) for that 'fuse'. So that's the special property?
I now understand HOW it works, I don't understand WHY it works... why does the wire break instead of say the coil itself, which is often just a 32 gauge skinny wire that's probably thinner than the fuse?
Pdib you are an evil evil man. Here I was happy with my tube mechs and kayfuns and sucessfully resisting the call of the darkside. Aka sqounking. After seeing the pics I can resist no more. Who do I have to kill to get on the wait list.
Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk
Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk
I'm going to be THAT GUY right now...
if the concept of a fuse hasn't hit home yet, then i feel really uncomfortable with the thought of you owning a mechanical mod.
Please read the wiki article i posted before.
its a thin metal, designed to melt and break the circuit when a certain amperage is exceeded. preventing a BOOM.
It really doesn't get much simpler than that.
Don't take offence to this, i am genuinely concerned....
if the concept of a fuse hasn't hit home yet, then i feel really uncomfortable with the thought of you owning a mechanical mod.
Please read the wiki article i posted before.
its a thin metal, designed to melt and break the circuit when a certain amperage is exceeded. preventing a BOOM.
It really doesn't get much simpler than that.
Don't take offence to this, i am genuinely concerned....
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