PDIB's Making MODs!

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rabernet

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Kay . . . . .. .Soooooooo . . . .


I'm taking some pictures tonight (and tomorrow maybe). The mods aren't ready to ship; but I guess they're ready for photos. And you kids have been so good, I didn't wanna make you wait any longer than absolutely necessary. (You'll notice, they don't even have their buttons yet. It'll be a few days before they are ready to ship . .. . . In fact, I just found out I'm solely responsible for the child and dog for 3 days toward the end of the week . . . .. . so don't hold yer breath.)

Let's just do this striptease style . . . . .. a little at a time. (All the mods are this far along; but I'll just throw a few up at a time.) Many are already attached to particular people . . . . some, not so much.

In no particular order, then. (oh, btw; I'll just bet if you click on the pic, it'll take you to the album)


WALNUT










Oh dear God! I love it!

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note II using Tapatalk.
 

Rossum

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Yes, and the next 60 or so he has even started yet.
:blush:
You should read them all. There are hidden codes and secret messages that are required and you have to be able to demonstrate the cat dance before you can become a dibi owner.
Sounds like I'll never be able to qualify. :cry:
 

onjre

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I was thinking about the automotive fuses... They're designed to pop under say 10 A for a 10 A fuse. But this is 10 A at 12 V which is 3 times more power draw than 10 A at 4 V. I wonder if a 10 A automotive fuse blows at more like 30 A when only 4 V is running through it. Has anyone actually tested this? Does anybody have a variable DC power supply to test this idea?
 

glassgal

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Ok... so to interject another silly question into this...

Any reason I shouldn't just stick this kick on top of my dibi and skip all the stuff with fuses? It's exactly the size of the top of any battery, and will fit right in the wood tube (because it's exactly the size of the battery). I'd just need to maybe solder a wire for the negative to run to the cap or something, since the wood wall won't provide the same ground as the metal tube?

DSC00103_zps7b81aee3.jpg


DSC00109_zpsa556f09d.jpg


Will it fit? It's about 1/2" tall. (someone asked about kicks earlier, and so while I had pulled apart my itaste 134, I decided to pull apart one of my mech mods too for pix).
 
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Rossum

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I was thinking about the automotive fuses... They're designed to pop under say 10 A for a 10 A fuse. But this is 10 A at 12 V which is 3 times more power draw than 10 A at 4 V. I wonder if a 10 A automotive fuse blows at more like 30 A when only 4 V is running through it. Has anyone actually tested this? Does anybody have a variable DC power supply to test this idea?
No, fuses really will blow in response to current; they don't really care about voltage. The main reason fuses have voltage ratings is so you can be sure the arc that forms when the fuse blows will extinguish, rather than continue provide a current path, and this is voltage dependent (and DC vs. AC also makes a difference here). Anyway, you can always use a fuse at a lower voltage than its rating. It will blow at the same current no matter how much voltage is in your circuit, but voltages higher than rated can be problematical due to arcing.
 

pdib

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I was thinking about the automotive fuses... They're designed to pop under say 10 A for a 10 A fuse. But this is 10 A at 12 V which is 3 times more power draw than 10 A at 4 V. I wonder if a 10 A automotive fuse blows at more like 30 A when only 4 V is running through it. Has anyone actually tested this? Does anybody have a variable DC power supply to test this idea?

The specs are for 32V, I believe . . .. http://www.littelfuse.com/products/...Blade-Fuses/Littelfuse_ATO_Ag_Blade_Fuses.pdf


But, that's all irrelevant. Amps, it seems, are Amps. (a lot like mudbugs are mudbugs, and the moon is the moon)
 

glassgal

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I'm going to be THAT GUY right now...

if the concept of a fuse hasn't hit home yet, then i feel really uncomfortable with the thought of you owning a mechanical mod.

Please read the wiki article i posted before.
its a thin metal, designed to melt and break the circuit when a certain amperage is exceeded. preventing a BOOM.
It really doesn't get much simpler than that.

Don't take offence to this, i am genuinely concerned....

First you tell me you are going to be THAT GUY, then tell me not to take offense at the end, after implying in the middle that I'm too stupid to buy a mech mod.

Ok THAT GUY, I won't take offense:). See, I play with 2000 degree fire for up to 14 hour days when I'm inspired, 1" from my bare hands, 6" from my bare nose, and 8" from glasses covering my eyes, that would withstand a flying 2000 degree molten blob of glass for only a second. I don't understand circuitry yet, but I do understand heat. That means I understand thermal runaway too. That means nothing I own can even begin to have a thermal reaction of the type that would lead to fire (big deal) or explosion without my noticing it.
 
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onjre

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Ok... so to interject another silly question into this...

Any reason I shouldn't just stick this kick on top of my dibi and skip all the stuff with fuses? It's exactly the size of the top of any battery, and will fit right in the wood tube (because it's exactly the size of the battery). I'd just need to maybe solder a wire for the negative to run to the cap or something, since the wood wall won't provide the same ground as the metal tube?

DSC00103_zps7b81aee3.jpg


DSC00109_zpsa556f09d.jpg


Will it fit? It's about 1/2" tall. (someone asked about kicks earlier, and so while I had pulled apart my itaste 134, I decided to pull apart one of my mech mods too for pix).

Oh, it works great and I can get em for cheap too.

The Oliver has a fuse in it already (the little squiggly wire between the bottom battery terminal and the other post on the bottom cap). You will not have to "mess" with it unless you blow it. By then pdib will have an instructional video up so you can see how simple it will be to change. I imagine you will just loosen the two connection points, dump out the fried pieces, and slip a new fuse element (from an automotive fuse) into place.

I suspect that you won't be able to kick it (length issues).
 

glassgal

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The Oliver has a fuse in it already (the little squiggly wire between the bottom battery terminal and the other post on the bottom cap). You will not have to "mess" with it unless you blow it. By then pdib will have an instructional video up so you can see how simple it will be to change. I imagine you will just loosen the two connection points, dump out the fried pieces, and slip a new fuse element (from an automotive fuse) into place.

I suspect that you won't be able to kick it (length issues).

Okies:). Thanks:).
 

jasl90

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Amps are amps... If it were V*A, the'd have a wattage rating.

I was thinking about the automotive fuses... They're designed to pop under say 10 A for a 10 A fuse. But this is 10 A at 12 V which is 3 times more power draw than 10 A at 4 V. I wonder if a 10 A automotive fuse blows at more like 30 A when only 4 V is running through it. Has anyone actually tested this? Does anybody have a variable DC power supply to test this idea?
 

ScandaLeX

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You got it glassgal! :thumb:

You cant fool me - I see that you're a quick study!:laugh:

I'm sure pdib has been working on a great tutorial. He's the one that gave me my best tips - "ALL" my best tips! :)

Sounds to me like Gg already did the tutorial....P'Dib.....Cut & paste.....Cut & paste!!!! This way you can just keep making Dibis!

Sent from a BIG phone.....Galaxy Note 3
 

onjre

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