PDIB's Making MODs!
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What confuses me about it is that obviously when a fuse blows it heats up (consumes power). It must take a certain amount of power to do this and power = volts x amps. What I didn't think about is that the voltage drop across the fuse is not the same as the supply voltage (i.e. neither 4 V or 12 V but rather something more like 0.1 V or 0.01 V). Apparently the voltage drop doesn't vary (much) no matter what the supply voltage is so the only thing that can change the power is the amps.
I'll have to think about this more. I'm not entirely convinced. I know, I know... it works so what's there to argue with? Well I just don't quite understand it to my satisfaction yet.
Possible but a little tricky. You'd have to be able to keep the Kick on the positive end if the battery and run a wire to negative end of the battery, while making sure the wire doesn't actually touch the negative end unless the button is being pressed.
If I ever get to run my own company, I'm hiring BuzzKilla to head up the Customer Service department.
Hahahaha,
You should see me at the office. My boss tries his best to stay composed during the client meetings.
It's jaw dropping fun.
But CS has never been for me. My girlfriend had to take over that part when we started an Etsy account together.
She won't let me respond to the emails
I'm no longer going to add fuel to this fire. I've done my share in derailing this thread.
pdib, my b-day is on St. Patrick's Day
I would like OliverDibi to at my doorstep before then
Sent from my Nexus 4
Trust me, a fuse only cares about amps. I'm an electrical engineer and have a lot of experience in the field. The voltage rating of a fuse is mainly for the rating of the insulation, so that the insulation will not prematurely break down. There are a lot of resources online that will verify this.
You also dont want a kick on this device. For one it would no longer be a mechanical mod, and for two they only provide 15watts. I love my 35watt vape and you can't get that with a kick or DNA. Not to mention that the kick is pretty tall and wouldn't actually fit in pdibs mod.
My point is, pdib did a lot of research and developed a technically amazing mechanical mod that loves sub-ohm vaping (and they are beautiful to boot). Turbocad and pdib have a couple of threads that really dive deep into all of the technical aspects of a high performance mechanical bf.
I'm with ya. There's a reason they keep me locked up in IT... On the bright side, being a surly ......., means requests are often accompanied with bribes and piece offerings.
Hahahaha,
You should see me at the office. My boss tries his best to stay composed during the client meetings.
It's jaw dropping fun.
But CS has never been for me. My girlfriend had to take over that part when we started an Etsy account together.
She won't let me respond to the emails
I'm no longer going to add fuel to this fire. I've done my share in derailing this thread.
pdib, my b-day is on St. Patrick's Day
I would like OliverDibi to at my doorstep before then
Sent from my Nexus 4
I 2nd that... Even if you can, it doesn't mean you should.
It'll fit. Just need to use and 18500 battery instead of an 18650.
Hahahaha,
You should see me at the office. My boss tries his best to stay composed during the client meetings.
It's jaw dropping fun.
But CS has never been for me. My girlfriend had to take over that part when we started an Etsy account together.
She won't let me respond to the emails
I'm no longer going to add fuel to this fire. I've done my share in derailing this thread.
pdib, my b-day is on St. Patrick's Day
I would like OliverDibi to at my doorstep before then
Sent from my Nexus 4
Well, you were trying to be helpful and concerned
. You just aren't talking to a very normal person.
Ok, forget the kick, it was just a curiosity question anyway.
What are you vaping in 35 watts? what ohm coil and what type juice?
My work will get a load of my Dibi. i vape all day there as it is and i have taken a few of my wood mods in as office mods/backups now and then. But they will not sub-Ohm.
"yes, but it's Trunker" precedes a lot of work statements about me, so i cannot wait until they see me cloud-chasing on one of these!
T
"yes, but it's Trunker" precedes a lot of work statements about me, so i cannot wait until they see me cloud-chasing on one of these!
T
OK, let me try to explain it:
Short version: The power dissipation in a resistor is equal to the square of the current times the resistance. This is all the fuse (being a low-ohm resistor) cares about: It's resistance and the current flowing through it. Of course if you know the current flowing through it and and its resistance, you can also calculate the resulting voltage drop across it, but that isn't necessary.
Long version: The fuse is very low-ohm resistor in series with a substantially higher-ohm load. Because it's a series circuit, the current through both resistors is intrinsically the same, and how much current is flowing is is primarily determined by the (relatively high) resistance of the load, where you will then find almost all of the voltage drop. If you do the Volts x Amps (or I^2 * R) calculation for both the load and the fuse, the load is consuming almost all the power and the fuse is consuming almost none (which is why it doesn't blow). Now what happens if we short the load? The current flowing in the circuit will rise until something limits it somehow. Assuming a perfect power supply and wiring, the only non-negligible resistance left in the circuit is the fuse. So that's where all the voltage drop is forced to go. You'll have a whopping current through (and all your voltage drop at) the fuse, which will then be "consuming" some crazy amount of power, which cause it to blow.
Incidentally, in the absence of a fuse (or other current limiting device) the battery becomes the fuse, but batteries typcally "blow" less gracefully than fuses do.
Thanks Jasl90
. I'll see if it fits once I get it, but it would still leave the problem with the negative post on the wood... I have a Rhodesian Ebony e-pipe, and its got a board (not a whole kick) at the bottom, with a copper wire that is run up the side to the metal at the rim for the negative post. Seeing that is what made me realize I can't just put a kick in without something for the negative post to ground to. And yes! I want a sub ohm capable mech mod anyway
!! I think the fuse is an elegant, simple and great solution too!!!
OK, let me try to explain it:
Short version: The power dissipation in a resistor is equal to the square of the current times the resistance. This is all the fuse (being a low-ohm resistor) cares about: It's resistance and the current flowing through it. Of course if you know the current flowing through it and and its resistance, you can also calculate the resulting voltage drop across it, but that isn't necessary.
Long version: The fuse is very low-ohm resistor in series with a substantially higher-ohm load. Because it's a series circuit, the current through both resistors is intrinsically the same, and how much current is flowing is is primarily determined by the (relatively high) resistance of the load, where you will then find almost all of the voltage drop. If you do the Volts x Amps (or I^2 * R) calculation for both the load and the fuse, the load is consuming almost all the power and the fuse is consuming almost none (which is why it doesn't blow). Now what happens if we short the load? The current flowing in the circuit will rise until something limits it somehow. Assuming a perfect power supply and wiring, the only non-negligible resistance left in the circuit is the fuse. So that's where all the voltage drop is forced to go. You'll have a whopping current through (and all your voltage drop at) the fuse, which will then be "consuming" some crazy amount of power, which cause it to blow.
Incidentally, in the absence of a fuse (or other current limiting device) the battery becomes the fuse, but batteries typcally "blow" less gracefully than fuses do.
I like the last line.
T
i like the little faces you guys put in there
I've been doing sub ohms for close to a couple years and until now with my copper wire DIBI I've used mechanicals that have protections which i guess (since i know squat) were like "venting holes" and maybe a spring here or there.
I've experienced maybe half a dozen atomizer issue "shorts" where things get extremely hot extremely fast and each time I either disconnected the atty or the bottom cap… very quickly (I've got a Gryphon Ti atomizer with a black and blue dot on the cap to prove it -which is the only sustained damage to date).
Without knowledge of electronics but lots of experience with making coils, i imagine that's all the protection anyone will have with the be. copper wire… oh yeah and proper batteries for sub ohms coils.
But I've always looked for mechs that had super conductivity (less v drop) and currently afaik there is NO other b/f mod on the market that compares.
I don't drink anymore so the only thing i'm worried about is my reaction time at my age…
I have another PDib modded Reo with a special "fuse block" and really cool pos pin that he put together for me and it works like a charm….
ok, i'll spring for a pic:
that fuse block is lifted in the back right, because theres a leeetle spring that provides tension on the IMR battery when you snug it in…
you'll see these things in those other threads of Pdib's and the gang.
I've experienced maybe half a dozen atomizer issue "shorts" where things get extremely hot extremely fast and each time I either disconnected the atty or the bottom cap… very quickly (I've got a Gryphon Ti atomizer with a black and blue dot on the cap to prove it -which is the only sustained damage to date).
Without knowledge of electronics but lots of experience with making coils, i imagine that's all the protection anyone will have with the be. copper wire… oh yeah and proper batteries for sub ohms coils.
But I've always looked for mechs that had super conductivity (less v drop) and currently afaik there is NO other b/f mod on the market that compares.
I don't drink anymore so the only thing i'm worried about is my reaction time at my age…
I have another PDib modded Reo with a special "fuse block" and really cool pos pin that he put together for me and it works like a charm….
ok, i'll spring for a pic:
that fuse block is lifted in the back right, because theres a leeetle spring that provides tension on the IMR battery when you snug it in…
you'll see these things in those other threads of Pdib's and the gang.
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