Penelope V2

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Itshak

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Its very nice demo there. Aren't you afraid the R and NR touch? I've had few wires break because of this that's why I'm twisting my own wires now making sure they are sturdy.

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No problem with this aal because no dry burn involve.

0.2 mm is enough space,so I just probe them a little before I add juice.
And I fire only with wick wet with juice for very short burst that's all.

Then when tank full and juice flow free there is no problem,I run 3 or 4 or tanks
Then built again after two weeks or so.
 

ZeroOhms

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Ok after vaping one full tank of GLV Newminster with no dry hits I'm back to my usual:

1.5 ohm ready made ribbon wire with cotton for wick!
With the new solid MP's ... It's just the best,I may say a must try!

It got the best airflow of all,there for one can push longer hits and the taste remain consistent As she run cooler.

Tons of vapor out of this one,time after time.

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Awesome pics and very helpful details. Just great.
Its is mayor of GG community. :D
 

FogNL

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Hi Its, I am going to try your 'split u-wick' setup this weekend.

Amazing... no luck again Its... I build the silica setup exactly as in your pictures. 2mm wick, ribbon wire 1.8 Ohm, the first wrap of NR wire inside the cup at both ends, the wicks 'x-cut' etc. Dry hits all the time... :cry:

Juice control 1, 2 or 6 turns open makes no difference. The liquid is a Halo PG/VG mix. Not thick so nothing special here. Power is 11 watts on a Kicked Atmizoo mech. The first draw is (barely) ok, the second one and all after are burned & dry. I can't believe it...

I almost wonder if there is something wrong with my V2. I have expected all the parts over and over again and there is nothing wrong with them. Not even a scratch inside. I've replaced the o-rings with new ones too.

Maybe the fact that I don't use it on a GG mech - so without air control from the device - plays a part in this. I don't know.
 

Aal_

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Amazing... no luck again Its... I build the silica setup exactly as in your pictures. 2mm wick, ribbon wire 1.8 Ohm, the first wrap of NR wire inside the cup at both ends, the wicks 'x-cut' etc. Dry hits all the time... :cry:

Juice control 1, 2 or 6 turns open makes no difference. The liquid is a Halo PG/VG mix. Not thick so nothing special here. Power is 11 watts on a Kicked Atmizoo mech. The first draw is (barely) ok, the second one and all after are burned & dry. I can't believe it...

I almost wonder if there is something wrong with my V2. I have expected all the parts over and over again and there is nothing wrong with them. Not even a scratch inside. I've replaced the o-rings with new ones too.

Maybe the fact that I don't use it on a GG mech - so without air control from the device - plays a part in this. I don't know.

Probably your air is too big. if you are happy with the air being that big, you have to use thinner silica to allow liquid to flow with smaller pressure. If you want to try what its is doing you have to make sure you are both using the same air pressure which is impossible to know for sure.
 

ZeroOhms

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Amazing... no luck again Its... I build the silica setup exactly as in your pictures. 2mm wick, ribbon wire 1.8 Ohm, the first wrap of NR wire inside the cup at both ends, the wicks 'x-cut' etc. Dry hits all the time... :cry:

Juice control 1, 2 or 6 turns open makes no difference. The liquid is a Halo PG/VG mix. Not thick so nothing special here. Power is 11 watts on a Kicked Atmizoo mech. The first draw is (barely) ok, the second one and all after are burned & dry. I can't believe it...

I almost wonder if there is something wrong with my V2. I have expected all the parts over and over again and there is nothing wrong with them. Not even a scratch inside. I've replaced the o-rings with new ones too.

Maybe the fact that I don't use it on a GG mech - so without air control from the device - plays a part in this. I don't know.

Did you try loosening the top cap a bit?
 

FogNL

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Did you try loosening the top cap a bit?

Yes... Didn't help either.

I just finished rebuilding it again with ribbon and 2 x 3mm on top with the channels empty. Spot on from the first draw. Up to 16 Watts if needed. I vape it at 11 and I can chain-vape it till it's almost too hot to touch without any wicking problem. Excellent.

I think I just forget about wick-in-the-channel(s) setups for a while or I will end up trowing my V2 over the balcony... :laugh:


Maybe a last question on this subject; the small nut that holds the ceramic has 2 cuts on the edge. I've never been able to figure out what they are for, if they need to be in a certain position and if so, how to put them in that position.
Could this have anything to do with it? :confused:
 
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ZeroOhms

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Yes... Didn't help either.

I just finished rebuilding it again with ribbon and 2 x 3mm on top with the channels empty. Spot on from the first draw. Up to 16 Watts if needed. I vape it at 11. Excellent.

I think I just forget about wick-in-the-channel(s) setups for a while or I will end up trowing my V2 over the balcony... :laugh:


Maybe a last question on this subject; the small nut that holds the ceramic has 2 cuts on the edge. I've never been able to figure out what they are for, if they need to be in a certain position and if so, how to put them in a certain position.
Could this have anything to do with it? :confused:

Nooo. No throwing GG over the balcony. (well, at least not intentionally) :D
If you haven't dissemble it yet, try this. After the first puff, fully close the MP and open it back up.
I am just throwing some of tricks I use when I get dry hits. Just trying to help. :)
 

Itshak

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Amazing... no luck again Its... I build the silica setup exactly as in your pictures. 2mm wick, ribbon wire 1.8 Ohm, the first wrap of NR wire inside the cup at both ends, the wicks 'x-cut' etc. Dry hits all the time... :cry:

Juice control 1, 2 or 6 turns open makes no difference. The liquid is a Halo PG/VG mix. Not thick so nothing special here. Power is 11 watts on a Kicked Atmizoo mech. The first draw is (barely) ok, the second one and all after are burned & dry. I can't believe it...

I almost wonder if there is something wrong with my V2. I have expected all the parts over and over again and there is nothing wrong with them. Not even a scratch inside. I've replaced the o-rings with new ones too.

Maybe the fact that I don't use it on a GG mech - so without air control from the device - plays a part in this. I don't know.

Ok so the un U wick didn't work for you yet it does work for me??
And when you built with double 3mm it work ok??

I do believe it's because the double 3mm play a role as kind of air flow limiter.

I tell you what without going to too much maybes I simply think that
There some limiter force that don't let juice travel free enough in the channel for some kind of
Vape style.
Why I say only some kinds?? Just because many others didn't complain and like it this way.
There are manny kind of fish in the sea same as many kind of vaping styles GG users.

I tell you what... To recreate the exact vaping that I had you need the exact hardware I have,
That's include solid mouth piece for the big tank!!!

The reason I got those was that for my vaping style I could use the V2 only with regular DT
And cotton as a wick.

So if you can't find a way to make it work like so,change the parts for what suit you better,
We have the best option available in GG house in a way no one have. Use it!

I tell you something more,you may fined the regular solid MP is not the same as the original
Even with drip tip,if you like Penney V3 draw feel,and the way it work that's the way to go,
To get the same on the V2.

my V2 wick no less better the V3 and it better it in the flavor department.
 
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FogNL

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Tnx Its,

Yes, as I posted above, if I set it up with 2 small pieces of 3mm wick only on top (cut off at the edge of the channels) with the channels completely empty, it wicks and vapes like a train. So this is where I leave it for now.

My next build on the V2 will be with cotton as in your pictures. But I think this will bring the vape close or identical to the V3. And I already have a V3... :)

BTW, you tip on putting one turn of NR wire inside on both sides of the R wire in the ceramic work really well. Thank you for that!


Anything you can say about my question about the little nut?
 

Itshak

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Nope,
But Those cuts don't play in role in juice flow up the channels.
The only way to restrict juice flow up the channel is by fiscal berries wick or air restriction in channel that
Don't let the juice travel free.

V2 with solid MP and cotton is not the same as V3, do to ceramic atty chamber shape and hole size in MP,
And different airflow do to that.
It's all play part so they will not be the same.
 
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