Falconeer

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I remember when I first joined ECF there was a lot of talk about how these threads might be delicate/ prone to wear and some folk advocated using a heat sink to cut out wear on the threads direct.

I noted this, but when I started serious photography in the early 1980s L39 and M42 screw fit pre set camera lenses ere still common and I had a lot of experience using relatively delicate threads which I carried forward - fingers crosssed I've not cross threaded and atty - yet.

My phone baulks at macro, but here's the original 4+ year old istick 30W - I guess I've been lucky

2.jpg
 

UncLeJunkLe

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My phone baulks at macro, but here's the original 4+ year old iStick 30W - I guess I've been lucky

View attachment 857989

The 30W has a stainless steel 510 thread (and a spring-loaded center pin), that's why it lasted you 4 years. My 30W threads are fine after all these years too because of this.

The original 20W istick had chromed brass threads and no spring-loaded pin.

Same ting with the Sigelei 30W, chromed brass threads. Except the Sig 30W is at least easy (somewhat) to put a SS 510 on and worth fixing IMHO, since it is an 18650 mod. So I did :) Vapocalypse ready.

MKMMN6k.jpg
 

DPLongo22

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I thought I was the only one with isticks anymore. My first one (20W) has stripped 510 threads...of course.

Then I have one 30W that either has a bad battery or the board is failing or bother. Haven't used in probably 2 years. And 2 more 30W still sealed in box.

I've got a 60 that comes in and out of rotation. I like that I can swap the panels.

I'm easy. What can I say. :blink:
 

Zutankhamun

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I got a few more months out of my 20w using plumbers tape on one of my attys.

haha. Memories, I remember stripping the threads on mine. Finally got the atty on and didn’t dare to take it off again. Top fill wasn’t common.
Trying to squeeze every last drop out of the tank before refill.
Dry hit city...
A08B1C15-9E66-4238-A071-0E9488947255.jpeg


fun times
 

Falconeer

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Last winter in Spain with its hard floors, tiled terraces and outdoor cafe/bars was a hard one for the Old Brigade and two died in action when they hit the deck, but one warrior ( the only one I then had with armour plating) survived with only a minor nick ( pic 1 ), even when it got knocked of a ladder platform when I was painting a ceiling.

This year's Masterplan then became to equip all my Nauti Minis with latticed metal sleeves - the last one arrived yesterday and that's the set fully covered now.

1.jpg 2.jpg
 

Falconeer

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Nov 27, 2015
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Dunoon, West of Scotland.
The 30W has a stainless steel 510 thread (and a spring-loaded center pin), that's why it lasted you 4 years. My 30W threads are fine after all these years too because of this.

The original 20W istick had chromed brass threads and no spring-loaded pin.

Same ting with the Sigelei 30W, chromed brass threads. Except the Sig 30W is at least easy (somewhat) to put a SS 510 on and worth fixing IMHO, since it is an 18650 mod. So I did :) Vapocalypse ready.

MKMMN6k.jpg

Nice work there!

Thanks for the info about the chromed brass threads on the earlier iSticks I didn't know that as I came in with a 30W - that explains a lot.
 

Falconeer

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Fielding the Reserve Team this week - first off a Zenith atop a Pico (85W) to back up the Mulus which is still behaving itself with Tigon Coils.

We will return to the point as the week progresses - but the eagle eyed may wish to note the gap between the Pico's battery cap and the Zenith!

As ever have a great day all!

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Electrodave

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Jammin121519.JPG

Jammin' a bit last night, and planning to do more today. I sold Valeri and maybe Bonni as well, as well as finishing Josie (fingers crossed). Lots of test playing today. So up on my Fender Vaporizer (I think that's highly appropriate) is a PyroV3 on a copper CONSRVR mod, and a Wasp Nano RDTA on a badass Tesla Manhattan clone (voltage drop under 150mV).
 

Fidola13

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